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Sonic Springs installed

9 posts Started 16 Jul 2011 Last recovered post 20 Jul 2011 Wayback Machine snapshot 24 Sep 2012

#1
Changed out my 6th Generation fork springs last night. Went to a sonic 1.0 with 7.5 wt oil. Very simple task, had no issues with removing the bottom cartridge retaining bolt. I did the swap with the forks on the bike.
1.5 hrs to complete. Only problem I had was my socket slightly marred the fork cap. They were very tight, even after I backed off the preload. They are very soft Al.
Interestingly, the right fork tube had perfectly clean fluid. The left forks's fluid was contaminated black. The 7.5 wt oil I replaced it with looked very thin. I just put 500ml in each fork.
The difference between the old spring and new ones was 5/8 inch. Seems the old ones were progressive rate while the new ones aren't . I didn't change the spacer at this time. I felt that if needed I could d this a later date.
#2
ok..i have to ask... whats the point of the right up??
did you forget your coffee and and writing about WHY you changed it and is it better or worse? :goofy: sat mornings do the same to me.
#3
Sounds like you're going to be busy. Doing a job halfway pretty much always means doing it again soon.   :comp13:
#4

[image: View Post]Jlewis50, on 16 July 2011 - 10:06 AM, said:

Changed out my 6th Generation fork springs last night. Went to a sonic 1.0 with 7.5 wt oil. Very simple task, had no issues with removing the bottom cartridge retaining bolt. I did the swap with the forks on the bike.
1.5 hrs to complete. Only problem I had was my socket slightly marred the fork cap. They were very tight, even after I backed off the preload. They are very soft Al.
Interestingly, the right fork tube had perfectly clean fluid. The left forks's fluid was contaminated black. The 7.5 wt oil I replaced it with looked very thin. I just put 500ml in each fork.
The difference between the old spring and new ones was 5/8 inch. Seems the old ones were progressive rate while the new ones aren't . I didn't change the spacer at this time. I felt that if needed I could d this a later date.


Since the spring is shorter, is the spacer still long enough to obtain a proper preload setting.     I have doubts the oem spacer is of adaquate length or , are you full in on preload setting?

Does the front of the bike seem lower now
#5
The ride height of the bike is actually higher than before. Seems since the stock springs were so soft for the bike they were in a constant state of sag. The shorter, stiffer springs , even though they are shorter, give the bike a ride height close or better than the old springs. Maybe one of the suspension experts could shed some light. The initial 1/2 inch of travel on the old spring gets absorbed by the simple weight of the bike.

The much stouter springs give the bike a balanced feel. First impressions on a test ride today were very good. The forks don't bottom on every little divit on the road. It now feels very balanced.
I am 6.4 260 and the bike rides so much more balanced. I currently am running an Ohlins rear with 1200 wt spring. When I purchased the Ohlins, the bike felt high in rear and low in the front. I actually bottom out the forks driving up my driveway with the old springs. Now they are nice and firm.
Reworking the suspension is the second best upgrade I have made to my VFR.(the first was my heated grips)
#6
Just curious , How far out, from full in on your preload setting. Did you measure it at all for sag on and off the bike?  

Im not critising, just curious. It will take 1000 mile of so for it to all soften up

Id really like one of those Ohlins with external preload, the $1300 price, had me go EEKKK!     Thats of course after I ride to Jacksonville Florida appointment and have my OEM seat , modified with new sargent foam, and 2 inches taller  , at the front of the seat taking it straight back from the front.   Then have the inner thigh area fully contoured with no hard lines.  This is the seat Sargent should be producing.
#7

[image: View Post]Jlewis50, on 16 July 2011 - 10:06 AM, said:

Changed out my 6th Generation fork springs last night. Went to a sonic 1.0 with 7.5 wt oil. Very simple task, had no issues with removing the bottom cartridge retaining bolt. I did the swap with the forks on the bike.
1.5 hrs to complete. Only problem I had was my socket slightly marred the fork cap. They were very tight, even after I backed off the preload. They are very soft Al.
Interestingly, the right fork tube had perfectly clean fluid. The left forks's fluid was contaminated black. The 7.5 wt oil I replaced it with looked very thin. I just put 500ml in each fork.
The difference between the old spring and new ones was 5/8 inch. Seems the old ones were progressive rate while the new ones aren't . I didn't change the spacer at this time. I felt that if needed I could d this a later date.
Two things, Did you change your Fork seals(you said one side was not clear). Someone else might chime in that this might not be the reason fore the lack of clarety in one forks oil?
Do a sag adjustment, also might want to work on setting the front end lower for better turn-in.(I'm 260 lbs. as well). I put 5wt(but name brand of oil makes these forks move differently). After I changed to my sonics(F) I had to lower the front(FYI) to get my turn-in back to where I had it.
#8
I just did my fork springs as well. Also with 1.0kg Sonic Springs and 7.5wt oil. I'm 6'4" and about 255lbs. I only eyeballed the sag when I set it up though. I have to get a buddy to come over and help me set it proper. But just eyeballing it, I only have the preload in a few turns. It's not all the way in at full preload like with the stock springs. Even with the preload all the way up on the stock springs, I was still bottoming out the forks, which led to a blown fork seal, which is what made me get off my butt and finally swap out the springs and oil. (Figured I might as well since I was going to have the front end apart anyway.)

I didn't change the spacer in mine either, though it's not a hard thing to change after the fact. The front seems to be about the same ride height as before, which I also attribute to the stiffer springs not needing as much preload. I haven't noticed any really difference in turn in. If anything it feels like it might be just a hair quicker than before. The front end feels much more stout and doesn't dive every time I touch the brakes like it did with the stock springs, which is awesome.

For the rear, I installed a BlackBird shock. I know it's not ideal for my weight, but it's the best I could afford, and the marginally stiffer spring feels much better than the stock one.
#9
What im wondering , if you guys have any preload on the springs at all?

Id like to see some sag numbers on the front end.

The easiest way is a small zip tie,  place on the chrome leg, right at the dust cover while bike is on center stand, and easily push the bike off the stand, the zip tie should move  than 5 or ten mm no problem.  so get on the bike gently with both feet on the pegs, gently get off and you;ll  see your zip tie is now further up the leg.   pop it back on the center stand, which should not touch the zip tie at all while doing, and now measure from the zip tie to top of dust cover,  thats your rider sag.

30 to 34mm is what your looking for    ,   which end of spec you prefer is your choice, im just wondering if your in that world with stock spacer.

it may be the case your at zero sag with the shorter springs and same spacer, I just wonder how much stroke you using with intial rider sag
End of thread · 9 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 24 Sep 2012