What's the best R/R

The bane of all vfr enthusiasts, the R/R. What is the best r/r for a 5th Gen?

[image: View Post]tuck, on 12 August 2011 - 06:30 PM, said:

The bane of all vfr enthusiasts, the R/R. What is the best r/r for a 5th Gen?


There's lots of threads so IMHO and since I have a 5th gen, in order....
- If you are decent with wiring and a soldering iron --- Compufire 55402 - its a serial design technology....
- Exact Shindengen FH012AA -- Get this kit --- http://roadstercycle.com/ -- Its the standard yamaha R/R with MOSFET technology - You might find used on Ebay
- Ricks R/R -- Buy from tightwad --- -www.wiremybike.com
- Electrosport - I have heard dont waste your bucks..
- OEM -- dont waste your money.


I'm eventually going for the Compufire on my '98, I have an OEM for the moment

Don't know the best, but I put a FH012 on my '99 over the winter. I got the wiring from Eastern Beaver, which wired the output directly to the battery and grounded to the frame. Also a new Rick's stator.
I used a FH010 for my PC800. Basically the same as the 012, but from a ZX-10.
Sold the PC, but the VFR is running (and charging) great!

My oem original Regulator another 10, ooo mile will be over 100,000 miles , IMO thats acceptable

Go with either an OEM replacement, or Rick's.

Whatever you do, AVOID Electrosport R/R's. I've heard nothing but terrible things about those.

[image: View Post]spud786, on 12 August 2011 - 10:58 PM, said:

My oem original Regulator another 10, ooo mile will be over 100,000 miles , IMO thats acceptable


I'm sure thats the exception, not the rule. There are plenty of threads to back that.

Come replacement time, an upgrade to MOSFET tech at the minimum is the way to go.

[image: View Post]mello dude, on 13 August 2011 - 11:57 AM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on 12 August 2011 - 10:58 PM, said:

My oem original Regulator another 10, ooo mile will be over 100,000 miles , IMO thats acceptable


I'm sure thats the exception, not the rule. There are plenty of threads to back that.

Come replacement time, an upgrade to MOSFET tech at the minimum is the way to go.



""""MOst if not all, is because people dont properly prep their wiring when the bike is New """""

and it damages componentry , then they buy after market electrical parts that is hit or miss that they even work. And it all snowballs, cause teh didnt fix the orginal issue the wiring contacts.

Keeping in mind 02 - 05 had a ground issue from the factory that was redesigned


THe #1 failure on the R1 is the Mosfet RR, BTW


On a side note, this is a 5th gen thread, which have bad RR's, 6th gen OEM RR's are really a good product.

Went with the Compufire, and have 14.33 volts at idle, at 5k rpm, and with the high beams on at idle, after a brief dip to 14.22 volts. I'm pleased at this point for sure. Only difficulties were they didn't send a complete female plug to wire in place of the old stator plug(but you can buy most of the pieces at any parts store), and I had to move the r/r a little closer to the front of the bike due to short wiring from the stator. I wired directly to the battery and used the 40 amp fuse included. I also had to rotate the r/r 90 degrees so that the wires would reach and stay on the oem bracket. Side benefit to this is that the cooling fins face the direction of the air flow now. I reached down and felt it on the way to work today and it wasn't even warm, but I don't know about at idle.

[image: View Post]tuck, on 23 August 2011 - 08:21 PM, said:

Went with the Compufire, and have 14.33 volts at idle, at 5k rpm, and with the high beams on at idle, after a brief dip to 14.22 volts. I'm pleased at this point for sure. Only difficulties were they didn't send a complete female plug to wire in place of the old stator plug(but you can buy most of the pieces at any parts store), and I had to move the r/r a little closer to the front of the bike due to short wiring from the stator. I wired directly to the battery and used the 40 amp fuse included. I also had to rotate the r/r 90 degrees so that the wires would reach and stay on the oem bracket. Side benefit to this is that the cooling fins face the direction of the air flow now. I reached down and felt it on the way to work today and it wasn't even warm, but I don't know about at idle.


What will be interesting, is once you have Radar , Gps, Electrical clothing ect , It may be worse than the shunt in that case, But I give you Kudos for trying.

BTW I can ride 200 mile in 100 degree heat and my stock oem RR is cool to the nakid hand on a 6th gen

Anyway, see ya in 40,000 mile

[image: View Post]spud786, on 23 August 2011 - 08:34 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tuck, on 23 August 2011 - 08:21 PM, said:

Went with the Compufire, and have 14.33 volts at idle, at 5k rpm, and with the high beams on at idle, after a brief dip to 14.22 volts. I'm pleased at this point for sure. Only difficulties were they didn't send a complete female plug to wire in place of the old stator plug(but you can buy most of the pieces at any parts store), and I had to move the r/r a little closer to the front of the bike due to short wiring from the stator. I wired directly to the battery and used the 40 amp fuse included. I also had to rotate the r/r 90 degrees so that the wires would reach and stay on the oem bracket. Side benefit to this is that the cooling fins face the direction of the air flow now. I reached down and felt it on the way to work today and it wasn't even warm, but I don't know about at idle.


What will be interesting, is once you have Radar , Gps, Electrical clothing ect , It may be worse than the shunt in that case, But I give you Kudos for trying.


Unlikely. Regulation is regulation - if you're idling and your rectified DC output to the regulator part of the R/R is low, then your regulator will stop regulating and you'll just get the raw output from the stator. At this point there is no difference between a shunt regulator and a switching regulator.

What causes regulators to get hot is when they have to excessively regulate. If you idle your bike for ages with nothing electrical connected to it, this is when a shunt-type regulator gets mighty hot. Always run your engine with the lights on - and if your stator is grunty enough the high beams as well! Much less stress on the stator and regulator in this case.

If you have a switching CompuFire regulator, none of the above is relevant. You can idle the bike for hours with nothing connected to it and it will just turn the stator off and on as required - no heat generated.

The voltage is weaker than stock, meaning the current will be higher, under high draw conditions, we'll see if the RR can even keep up.

The heat generation on an oem system, is not an issue as far as Ive seen, atleast on 6th gen

Like I say I can ride hundreds of miles in 100 degree heat and OEM RR cool to nakid hand.

But I am running a RD, in the winter I'll be running electrics addtional .


The 5thgen defintely had issue with heat where it was placed and same wriing pre issue neede, but 6th genners are mostly creating their own problem with the after market crap changes, and not prepping their wiring in the very begiNNING.

and please dont put that silicone electrical crap on your wiring, wd only .

Howdy all. I am in the same boat with a new to me 99. 13.75V just above idle and 12.3-12.7V anywhere else.

Rick's RR 10-125H is a bolt on for the 1999 VFR or is there rewiring or a kit required? Is wiremybike.com a lister? Pricing seems a bit off from the market. (Th Internet seems quite conflicted about whether the 98-99 is the same as the 2000+)

I've used Electrosport in the past with great success on Ducatis. Have people seem premature failures from their products?

If I order stock (31600-MBG-305) at a much lower price, why is that terrible?

Thanks guys!

b