VFR 800 '98 charging issues

Suprise suprise, another one ;)

Background info:
Bought my VFR800Fi 1998 at 54k last christmas, only ridden it 56k till now (just recently got my license)

The OEM regulator on this was replaced 4-5 years ago, no idea what brand it is only label is "GB0425Z".
Couple of months ago out riding I noticed all the dashboard lights going out and shortly thereafter it sputtered and just died on me. Would not start at all. I was able to limp home by swapping my battery with my friends who had no problem using my dead battery when we jump started it (Honda Scooter, go figure).
So I figured it was the cheap battery that the former owner had bought that was the issue, replaced it with a brand new Yuasa and all was good for a few weeks.

Being weary that the battery might not be the issue I installed a voltage monitor for Joerg Hau (http://jhau.maliwi.d.../voltmeter.html)
Well wouldn't you know, a few weeks after getting the new battery the Red warning lamp on the voltage indicator started glowing, telling me the voltage was at 12v or below. Also even more worringly I smelled burning rubber, but I couldn't say if it was my bike or just an old car in front of me. I stopped and inspected but couldn't spot any issues. On my way home the light actually went away again, when I finally got home everything was seemingly fine.

Well my confidence in this bike was getting low, so I went on troubleshooting using the electrosport fault finding guide (https://www.electros...t-finding-guide).
Everything single thing checked out, I could not determine any issue either with my Stator or RR, nor did any of the cable connection show any sign of being burnt. I figured it could be the wiring harness so I ordered VFRNess and did not ride my bike before having installed it.

So I continue to ride, few days later red warning lamp starts glowing! When I get home the battery bearly got a charge, I use my trickle charger overnight and get it up to full again. Ride again, this time the yellow over-voltage warning light appears, meaning my RR was now giving me 15v or even more. I immediatly rode home.

So thats where I am at now. In my haste I just decided it must be a faulty RR and I am currently waiting for a new unit from electrosport (http://www.electrosp...rrectifier.html)
I guess I should have made some more research as reading through posts in this forum this might not be my issue at all...

Things I plan to troubleshoot if the new RR unit does not help
- BYC fix (http://www.vfrdiscus...__1#entry732215)
- Hook up voltmeter to Stator output and monitor while riding to see if there are any major flucutations across any of the 3 phases.

Readin my story, are there any apparent things that could be causing this? Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated!

[image: View Post]Snowjoggs, on 09 September 2011 - 03:29 AM, said:

Readin my story, are there any apparent things that could be causing this? Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated!

Just sounds like a dud regulator mate, especially if it's overcharging. The only possible cause for an overcharge condition is a dud regulator or dodgy voltage monitor wire, and I don't think your bike even has a monitor wire.

[image: View Post]kaldek, on 09 September 2011 - 04:02 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Snowjoggs, on 09 September 2011 - 03:29 AM, said:

Readin my story, are there any apparent things that could be causing this? Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated!

Just sounds like a dud regulator mate, especially if it's overcharging. The only possible cause for an overcharge condition is a dud regulator or dodgy voltage monitor wire, and I don't think your bike even has a monitor wire.


Yep crossing my fingers that its the RR! The '98 don't got a voltage indicator on the dash so no wire I guess ;) Hence the addon I bought from Joerg.

You won't need to ride while testing the Stator output with a voltmeter, just rev to about 4 - 5000 rpm. Make sure all combinations of Yellow to Yellow AC Volts are the same.
The fact that you get high DC volts as well as the battery failing to charge up indicates to me a new RR required. High volts would not have done your old battery a lot of favours either.
Cheers
Mike

[image: View Post]swas, on 09 September 2011 - 05:16 AM, said:

You won't need to ride while testing the Stator output with a voltmeter, just rev to about 4 - 5000 rpm. Make sure all combinations of Yellow to Yellow AC Volts are the same.
The fact that you get high DC volts as well as the battery failing to charge up indicates to me a new RR required. High volts would not have done your old battery a lot of favours either.
Cheers
Mike


I did test the Stator while idling it in the garage. It gave ~55v on all 3 phases at 4-5K RPM. My thought is that perhaps the Stator acts differently during load/stress while riding for an extended time and as such will give different readings than just checking it in the garage?
In any case, I hope the RR does the trick if not I need to give the Stator a second look.

If there is any shorted turns in the stator, inter-turn or to ground, you will not get equal volts from all phases loaded or unloaded. I reckon 4-5k rpm with headlights on in neutral standing still just about loads the electrics as much as road running?
Sure there is a possibility that the stator may break down as it gets hot if it is heading for being a problem, but you wouldn't be getting >15Vdc then IMHO.
If I was a betting man I would have mine on your RR being crook :cool: . It seems just like one which dumped on my 3rd gen with headlights being brighter than normal.

I hope the Electrosport method you followed had you pull open the Stator plug /socket and open all the DC plug/socket connections, pull the main fuses and check for any burnt contacts? I suspect from your comments you have had a search around amongst the VFRD posts on RR's and know about those possibilities.

[image: View Post]swas, on 09 September 2011 - 05:42 AM, said:

If there is any shorted turns in the stator, inter-turn or to ground, you will not get equal volts from all phases loaded or unloaded. I reckon 4-5k rpm with headlights on in neutral standing still just about loads the electrics as much as road running?
Sure there is a possibility that the stator may break down as it gets hot if it is heading for being a problem, but you wouldn't be getting >15Vdc then IMHO.
If I was a betting man I would have mine on your RR being crook :cool: . It seems just like one which dumped on my 3rd gen with headlights being brighter than normal.

I hope the Electrosport method you followed had you pull open the Stator plug /socket and open all the DC plug/socket connections, pull the main fuses and check for any burnt contacts? I suspect from your comments you have had a search around amongst the VFRD posts on RR's and know about those possibilities.



I haven't actually opened the stator plug/socket yet, but I did go through all the plug/socket connections I came across, spraying them with WD40 before re-fastening. Non of them showed any sign of corrision or melting. Having said that I did not remove the tank or front-fairings... maybe there are some plugs covered by these parts that could be damaged as well?

I have read a fair amount of posts yes, I decided to make my own to cover my bases so to speak ;) Hopefully I will find the culprit (betting on the RR!)

Got the new RR from electrosport today.

Here are my readings (measured directly from battery)

1000rpm: old: 13.05v new: 13.05v
2000rpm: old: 14.47v new: 14.76v
3000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.77v
4000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.77v
5000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.8v
6000rpm: old: 14.35v new: 14.8v

Looks good! Time will tell if its stable tho

[image: View Post]Snowjoggs, on 12 September 2011 - 09:43 AM, said:

Got the new RR from electrosport today.

Here are my readings (measured directly from battery)

1000rpm: old: 13.05v new: 13.05v
2000rpm: old: 14.47v new: 14.76v
3000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.77v
4000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.77v
5000rpm: old: 14.32v new: 14.8v
6000rpm: old: 14.35v new: 14.8v

Looks good! Time will tell if its stable tho


Looking at your readings, the old isnt exactly "bad'. -- I would still keep on your toes. - Things that make you go "hmmmm'.

My readings are the same as your "new" one, but man does my R/R get hot. It sucked being 2 hours outside of home and having a stranger push start me. Once i mounted my R/R outside the plastic, I was able to ride back when my weekend was up and it even restarted after riding 2 1/2 hours straight (I really had to potty).

I'm really thinking about re-routing my R/R to the front or just some where other than the rear stock location. I ordered my stator and misc stuff from keith at Mason city, but honda has the stators on back order. My stuff should be shipped some time this week. I think I'm gonna go with the FH011 R/R with it's HUGE fins and mount that somewhere.

[image: View Post]rangerscott69, on 12 September 2011 - 10:06 PM, said:

I think I'm gonna go with the FH011 R/R with it's HUGE fins and mount that somewhere.


I'm not familiar with that part number but if its a Honda R/R dont waste your bucks. Either go for a MOSFET style R/R or the Compufire part.

Its right under the FH012 r/r

Stable so far! Went out for a 2 hour ride, once I came back home I removed the seat and put my hand on the RR, yes it was hot, but not so hot that I had to remove my hand.

If it acts up again in the future I will go with a mosfet one.