My ABS light kept flashing and then I heard a metal on metal noise from the rear brake and knew immediately what it was so I ordered a new set of pads for the rear and this is what I found when changing them tonight. [image: Posted Image]
Now the light is out and I have good & quiet rear brakes again.
I do use my rear brake but, I don't drag the brake. I wonder why it went out so fast?
The fronts still have half the pads left in them.
[image: View Post]fasterspider, on 24 October 2011 - 09:19 PM, said:
My ABS light kept flashing and then I heard a metal on metal noise from the rear brake and knew immediately what it was so I ordered a new set of pads for the rear and this is what I found when changing them tonight. http://i34.photobuck...0F/DSCI0506.jpg
Now the light is out and I have good & quiet rear brakes again. I do use my rear brake but, I don't drag the brake. I wonder why it went out so fast? The fronts still have half the pads left in them.
your riding with your foot on the brake, lower the pedal, i got 7000 miles out of my first set, average 20,000 miles lowering the pedal(normal). Its set way too high from the factory.
I will lower my pedal tomorrow but, I ride with my toe on the peg until I need to brake for the past couple of years.
My CBX does not have this unusual pad wear.
You will also need to check the small pad on the left top front caliper too that is tied into the rear brake petal, that pad will most likely be toast too.
If its not too worn out I would suggest you swap it out with the right one.
I hardly ever use my rear brakes except for really hard braking situations where I have to throw out all the anchors or somethimesfor setting up the bike for a turn, but that's usually just a quick tap on it. and I always ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs so no rear brake dragging probelm, but still the rear brake pads wear enough that they keep up with the fornts, so I can' fgure it out either. Maybe the brake pad size and disc swept ratio just reuslts in more wear per miles normally?
I am going to go lower the pedal now that it stopped raining.
Oh yes, it rained here in So Cal this morning totally blowing what is left of my mind.
Riding with my toes on the pegs has only started in the past two years because of the influence my track riding friends have instilled in me.
It is still not instinct but, I am doing the best I can after riding for 30+ years with my feet squarely on the pegs and dragging toe when I was riding aggressively.
I may be 49 years old but, I am not too old to learn new riding techniques that make my riding experience more fun.
My CBX has CBR brakes and my rear brake is too potent making me wish I had ABS on her too.
[image: View Post]fasterspider, on 25 October 2011 - 02:07 PM, said:
I am going to go lower the pedal now that it stopped raining.
Oh yes, it rained here in So Cal this morning totally blowing what is left of my mind.
Riding with my toes on the pegs has only started in the past two years because of the influence my track riding friends have instilled in me.
It is still not instinct but, I am doing the best I can after riding for 30+ years with my feet squarely on the pegs and dragging toe when I was riding aggressively.
I may be 49 years old but, I am not too old to learn new riding techniques that make my riding experience more fun.
My CBX has CBR brakes and my rear brake is too potent making me wish I had ABS on her too.
It took me 3 adjustments to get it right, fisrt set as I said, 7000 mile, second set after first adjustment 11,000 mile, 3 rd adjustment 20,000 mile per rear pad set . I didnt think my foot was riding on it either, but it was.
That first set .,my fluid was black as COAL, has to flush it
Just check that front left side - the small pad on the top - mine got toasted at the same time the rear was. I ended up replacing all the pads as a set then I bleed the brakes too. My front pads were ok other then that one on the top left, but since you cant just buy that fricken top pad you have to buy the whole damn thing I went ahead and got the whole set. You would think Honda would include that pad with the rear pad set since they wear at the same rate independent of the other front pads? It could get expensive change all your pads all the time when all you need is the rear and front top left?
[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 25 October 2011 - 07:39 PM, said:
Just check that front left side - the small pad on the top - mine got toasted at the same time the rear was. I ended up replacing all the pads as a set then I bleed the brakes too. My front pads were ok other then that one on the top left, but since you cant just buy that fricken top pad you have to buy the whole damn thing I went ahead and got the whole set. You would think Honda would include that pad with the rear pad set since they wear at the same rate independent of the other front pads? It could get expensive change all your pads all the time when all you need is the rear and front top left?
Guess you should have met up with me.....Have 2 sets of these now as I wear out my front pads like there is no tomorrow. Just changed mine (2nd time now I am changing the front) at 13k km and and the small ones linked to the rear brakes are like new. My rear brakes are also about 30% worn so still have a lot of life left in them.
Amazing how differing riding styles show in brake pad wear patterns!!!
I will order a complete front set of EBC sintered pads tomorrow when I have my 2011 catalogue in front of me.
Thanks for the heads up on that as I will get it done asap.
[image: View Post]fasterspider, on 26 October 2011 - 06:42 PM, said:
I will order a complete front set of EBC sintered pads tomorrow when I have my 2011 catalogue in front of me.
Thanks for the heads up on that as I will get it done asap.
I dunno how EBC pads are these days, but I remember putting on green EBC pads on my Honda Hawk some years ago and they scoured and glazed the front and rear discs badly in short order and I did not really feel any difference in braking performance. OEM Honda pads are actually highly regarded by many riders as strong enough performers and usually much kinder to discs.
[image: View Post]Beck, on 26 October 2011 - 07:10 PM, said:
[image: View Post]fasterspider, on 26 October 2011 - 06:42 PM, said:
I will order a complete front set of EBC sintered pads tomorrow when I have my 2011 catalogue in front of me.
Thanks for the heads up on that as I will get it done asap.
I dunno how EBC pads are these days, but I remember putting on green EBC pads on my Honda Hawk some years ago and they scoured and glazed the front and rear discs badly in short order and I did not really feel any difference in braking performance. OEM Honda pads are actually highly regarded by many riders as strong enough performers and usually much kinder to discs.
Beck
95 VFR
EBC hh+ sintered pads and HH ++ pads are a great upgrade for vfr front brake pads, more bite and less lever pressure needed for braking - Green pads are actually a downgrade, organics too. Stick with the sintered EBC pads hh+ or higher but dont use them on the rear, they at way too grabby for rear brakes and they dont have the heat sleeve on the rear pads either so you can boil the rear brake fluid too soon if used alot, best to use Honda oem for rear pads.
[image: View Post]HispanicSlammer, on 26 October 2011 - 07:36 PM, said:
EBC hh+ sintered pads and HH ++ pads are a great upgrade for vfr front brake pads, more bite and less lever pressure needed for braking - Green pads are actually a downgrade, organics too. Stick with the sintered EBC pads hh+ or higher but dont use them on the rear, they at way too grabby for rear brakes and they dont have the heat sleeve on the rear pads either so you can boil the rear brake fluid too soon if used alot, best to use Honda oem for rear pads.
I concur. VFR800/1200 pads are HH grade from the factory.
![[image: Posted Image]](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d138/fasterspider/VFR1200F/DSCI0506.jpg){kind=link}