Also known as a 'brake bias valve'. How about fine-tuning or essentially shutting off the linked brake system with one of these? Anybody been there? It seems like if you didn't want to take the time and spend the money to re-design and re-configure the brakes, you could put one or two of these into the system and dial out the automatic links. Reading the threads on ditching the brake links, it looks like a $ubstantial undertaking.
I think most of the available adjustable bias valves (Wildwood is the most widely used manufacturer) do not go 100% closed but they do adjust to like 90%...Combined with the built-in bias that Honda sent us and you could, for not much trouble or expense, almost negate the linked brakes without much trouble or expense.
I've used the dial/knob type on my racecar and they are pretty effective. Quite simple devices, robust and fairly small.
Just 'noodling' with strange ideas here.
Don Hanson
link below showing the bias valve
Don't think you would need to add a extra valve, just plug/remove unwanted lines. :ph34r:
Though they may not feel like it, the linked brakes are actually very effective! :rolleyes: IMO there is no reason to De-link a VFR with stock suspension anyway. If you want to mod the suspension with a good shock and some decent inverted forks then by all means you'll trash the linked system while doing so. Otherwise the linked system for the avg.rider skills is a better and safer addition. :tour:
For sure, if the system was as simple as most race cars it would be a no brainer!
Utilizing a proportioning valve won't effectively de-link the VFR's brakes. The system is set up whereby the (front) brake lever activates (only) 4 or 5 (depending on the year) out of a total of 6 front caliper pistons, and also engages 1 of 3 pistons in the rear caliper. The (rear) brake pedal operates the remaining 1 or 2 front pistons and the 2 rear pistons. Installing proportioning valves will merely reduce the braking pressure applied to the opposite-end pistons--e.g., the (front) lever won't actuate the rear piston as much, or at all, as it did/does stock; the (rear) pedal won't push the front piston(s) as hard as stock--de facto negating fully 1/3 of overall braking force. The key to de-linking is to have the (front) lever activate all of the front pistons--and none of the rears--and the (rear) pedal activate all of the rear pistons--and none of the fronts.
IMO, the linked brakes set-up leaves much to be desired for any rider; among other shortcomings, the system (potentially dangerously) seriously limits riders' abilities to most effectively make use of the brakes in any number of situations. The only riders who could potentially (initially) benefit--novices and/or the unskilled--from the "dumbing down" of the braking system, arguably stand to suffer from it most of all (long-term) in that it prevents them from learning proper braking techniques for a broad spectrum of conditions/scenarios.
FWIW, I've been asked to post up--with pics--my de-linking set-up. I've actually got it written up on another forum, so, hopefully, I can find the time to put it up here for any interested parties.
The LBS doesn't appeal to everyone, that's why there are lots of different motorcycles out there to buy.
I delinked mine as a casualty of the RC51 fork swap, not because I hated the system.
Before I got my carpal tunnel surgery, my right hand would go totally numb, leaving me with zero feel on the front brake lever. At those times, I REALLY REALLY appreciated being able to stomp on the rear brake lever and get some front brake out of the deal.
End of thread · 4 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 29 Jul 2012