On another thread, a member mentioned that they changed a handful of electrical components - RR/Battery/Stator etc - when all that really was needed was a missing bolt from the sidestand.
It was funny but hit home at the same time. I'm sure there are lots of us that have diagnosed something wrong and spent money and time "fixing" it - but the reality ends up being a simple thing was overlooked.
So what have we all got, to take shots at ourselves?
I had a radiator changed out of a SUV when all I needed to change out was the rad cap. DOH!!!
I also had my VFR gas tank almost yanked off my bike when I had it strapped to the garage door - while cleaning out the air filter. I hit the garage door open button and the tank started to move. Not exactly a "mis diagnosis" but nonetheless - a Darwin moment for sure!!!
So - whats everyone else done to your bike that's good for a giggle?
I had every electrical component changed on my GS1000s until I figured out the headlight grounds to the handlebars. I had black painted clubmans on it! [image: Posted Image]
After tearing down my Buell following the SECOND explosion in the valve train, I spent all night putting it back together. Started it and heard a fwap, fwap,fwap. I kicked the bike over and went home. My brother called and reminded me that the gasket kit has 883 AND 1200 head gaskets inside the box and why were the 1200 gaskets still there?
Not motorcycle related, but I had a dehumidifier stop working. Bought a replacement online and it didn't work either. Turns out the extension cord I was using had failed. Doh!
625]
I change rear brakes pads on the VFR and some how replaced one of the new pads with one of the old pads and had the metal side turn towards the rotor. Then I wonder why I had no rear brakes and then went to TMAC last year and figure it out !!!!!
I was considering buying a new bike in 2004 until I discovered my mechanic had fitted a 5th-gen front sprocket (17 teeth) to my 6th-gen (16-teeth). I had not used sixth gear in 12 months.
While changing the piston on my Rotax 250 (rotary valve AKA baloney slicer) I duly put a clean paper towel down the intake to keep dirt out.
After fitting the new piston and rings and barrel back on, ( and being in a hurry to ride), I gassed it up and kicked it over........
it actually fired about 6-7 times and THEN it hit me....the paper towel!!! It got sucked in, bent the rotary valve which then began slicing up the magnesium crankcase. Not only did I not get to ride , I had to tear the whole engine apart, find someone who could weld magnesium, then machine the surface flat, new rotary valve etc. ARGHHHHH!!!
Installed a new fuel pump regulator on the old girl so that the thing tightened up on the fuel rail shaft with the inlet spigot facing the wrong way! I had to take it all apart and figure out why it would not tighten with the thing facing where the return hose could connect, then realized I had the wrong hose on it duh! Fuel of course all over the place.
I replaced a power steering pump in my '79 Caprice classic because I thought it was making noise. I also had to replace the reservoir because I bent the original when I removed the pump. I was just tightening the pump on when I saw the rock lodged in an adjacent belt pulley. Aaaaaaagh!
Yes, i did do this once. It was my marriage. It cost me a ton of cards, flowers, general ass kissing and a new suburban for her. I'll never make that mistake again.
My stupid mechanic got confused with the euro torque setting numbers on my other bike, and snapped off a bolt for the oil filter that was too small for him to remove once broken. Cost $80 to have the real mechanic fix it. :goofy:
Years ago diagnosed the oil pressure sensor was bad on a car. I forget if it sprung a leak or what, but I stuck a bolt in its hole in the engine block, as a temp fix. Then it wouldn't start except if I shot carb cleaner into the carb or poured in gas. Then it would start and run a few seconds. Further diagnosed the fuel pump was not working. Went to auto parts to buy sensor and fuel pump. Counter guy told me if the sensor is not sending, the pump will not turn on. Saved me a bunch of money and time. Err, saved my stupid mechanic a bunch of time. :laughing6-hehe:
One mistake and we pay for it the rest of our lives ... :blink:
[image: View Post]GoBigRed, on 10 January 2012 - 09:07 PM, said:
Yes, i did do this once. It was my marriage. It cost me a ton of cards, flowers, general ass kissing and a new suburban for her. I'll never make that mistake again.
Diagnosed this when I was mechanicing my way through college. Lady comes in once a week for a month that her Fiat 124 Spider won't start. Nobody can figure out what's wrong, they get it in the shop and it starts every time. 5th time it comes in they ask if I'll look at it. I go out to look at it while she's waiting for her ride and I notice a big stack of books (college text) in the passenger seat. Hmmm...I get in, no start. Take books off seat, Vroom. Weight of the books was enough to activate the seat belt sensor! New semester and this one day a week she had like 5 classes. Car would be towed into us, she'd take her books when her ride showed up, we'd push it in the shop, try and start it, no books vroom.
My big one: My wife's Oldsmobile Silhouette (the Cadillac of minivans) was making a grinding noise from the engine bay. I thought it may be the transmission. Then I discovered that it only happened in park and neutral, having me think more that it was the trans. Then I CORRECTLY diagnosed that the ignition barrel was worn out, and it was electrically telling the starter to engage and that made perfect sense due to the starting lock-out in drive or reverse. I thought I was a genius. 27 bucks later, I had the new barrel in my hand. I took apart the dash and steering column and removed the old ignition. No problems as of yet, yes timmy, you are smart. I put in the new one and tried to turn the key. The barrel must have been the wrong part because it locked in the hole with the tab hidden by the housing. Nothing worked to remove or turn it, so for 4 hours I drilled it out, figuring I could just use a screw driver to start it until I could find the right part. 4 more hours of cussing, and zero starting.
Tow truck. 10 days. I had placed the computers into "theft mode" and the repair shop had to sub-contract the only guy on the planet earth with the right codes to have it fixed. $900 somolians that cost me. I am DONKEY.
A jumper cable walks into a bar. The bartender says,
"I'll serve you, but don't start anything.
Two Eskimos sitting in a kayak were chilly, so they lit a fire in the craft. Not surprisingly it sank,
proving once again that you can't have your kayak and heat it too.
I'm still thinking of what blunders I've made working on my bike, but the only thing that comes to mind is a few times I leave to go riding and it comes to me about 5 miles(or 20) that I didn't bring my Paperwork for the law, but haven't been pulled doing that yet. Yes, I do go back and get it.
[image: View Post]KanadianKen, on 10 January 2012 - 10:46 PM, said:
VeeferCanuck - the amount of times you've torn that bike down - you must have a nugget or two to share with us - don't be shy!!
Can't think of anything at the moment, but I did forget a couple of items tonight as I was greasing and reassembling the rear hub in the swingarm.
Got the axle put in, but thankfully not tightened, and saw a snap ring on the floor. It needed to go in to hold the needle bearing cage in the hub.
Pull axle, pop seal, install snap ring.
Then I put on the giant nut on the Cush drive end of the axle, torqued and staked it, then realized that I hadnt installed the conical washer under the nut.
Had to unstake it, remove nut, and reinstall. Of course, it was a brand new nut, so now it has marks where I staked it the first time. Yay.
[image: View Post]KanadianKen, on 10 January 2012 - 10:46 PM, said:
Come on Seb - you've got some skeletons that you aren't sharing!!
I'm trying to think of some, honest.
I've rebuilt a lot of forks, but had an oops a few sets back where I installed an oil seal prior to dropping the backup washer in place. Had to remove the brand new seal and it tore in the process.
While taking my second test ride on my cb900, I forgot to tighten the front sprocket bolt. Towards the top of second gear I pulled in the clutch to stop, which let the bolt spin itself out. Off came the sprocket, off came the chain which jammed against the frame, and broke after locking the rear wheel. Couple new master links luckily took care of the only damage. Never skipping the pre flight check again!
I was proud of myself as I buttoned up my first ever clutch replacement in my Fiat X1/9. Rolled out from under the car, took it off the jack, and only then did I notice I left out the splash guard that should have been fitted between the motor and transmission. I thought I could run with out it, but soon discovered that it acted as a shim for the starter and the starter would not reliably engage. :ohmy:
Volkswagen Jettas were notorious for having their fuel pump go weak. I set up a fuel pump pressure gage on my daughter's car and started the engine inside a garage. Seconds later the engine bay was on fire. I shut it off and ran around to the front to see what I could do. The forgotten extinguisher was in the house so I grabbed a sleeping bag that was being stored on a shelf and smothered the fire with it. Lesson learned on the extinguisher issue, believe me.
$1000 later in parts that were crisped in the fire and a new sleeping bag, the car was ready to start. It worked perfectly except for when I tried to turn the steering wheel. The movement was stiff and jerky. A crawl under the car reveled a leaking power steering pump. It seems when I put a jack under the pump to relieve some spring tension in order to install the belt, I placed it on a soft spot on the pump that decided to bend even though there was minor pressure put on it.(if I had another hand, I could have overcome the spring pressure while putting the belt on). $150 later the car was back on the road and the symptom of the original problem was gone.
The only saving grace was that it would have cost me about $2000 to have Volkswagen do the work but a lot less if I would have troubleshot the original problem correctly in the first place.
A rainy day calculation of as many of the recalled DIY items I have successfully completed during my time on earth put me between $250,000 and $300,000 ahead of the game so I can't complain too much.
I do have a car related electrical mishap ... $75.00 to remove a cd from a cd changer .... it was a train wreck the moment I went to buy a battery for the car ... blew the main fuse in the car which saved everything else, replaced that ... wanted to sell the car but needed a stereo shop to tell me the fuse for the changer was pooched ... simple but I missed it. Among other things!
See the folder in my gallery called VFR carnage for pictures of when I failed to tighten the locknut on my APE manual cam chain tensioner. It cost me two bent valves, a cam chain, and cam sprocket, gaskets, some time, and my all pride. Luckly, my wife doesn't allow me to keep much of that last item.
I was riding my cb400 f home about midnight cold and wet, raining and somehow turned off the ignition with emergency switch thinking the camchain broke (fairly common on these ) i pushed it about 7 miles to my house about 3 hours as I did not have insurance . Came out next morning to repair and noticd switch off had an oh shite wtf moment there and then .
[image: View Post]Axel_7, on 11 January 2012 - 12:17 AM, said:
Well im sure there are a few good garage mistakes over time but the mind cant think of any...
But for the story we went to a BBQ a few years back and i went out to the backyard to grab a beer and
headed back into there kitchen when i desided to come up behind the wife and give her a HUSBANDly hug
from behind (complete with two full handfulls) only to find out it was not the wife same hair and skirt..... But good news i did it in front
of the wife that was accross the room watching...
Good thing you've found something good in this story. Bet she didn't. Either you groped another woman in front of your wife or you didn't recognoze your own wife. Not good either way. Ask me how I know... My excuse was alcohol. Nope. didn't work.
Bike:
Was chaning top CCT and didn't wind itup, which resulted in dropping the metal cap into the engine. Major OH $HIT! moment and shortly before the group ride too. Was fortunate enough to fish it out after two days of struggle.
Truck:
Low oil pressure was misdiagnosed as bad oil pump on my Silverado. Bought high flow pump, had my mechanic install it. Still low oil pressure. Replacement cost $600. Ended up replacing that motor due to bad lower end. Replacement cost $1000. Still have the high flow pump as a suvenire. It's never the pump folks! :rolleyes:
Boat:
Bought my first power boat with outboard motor. The thing was bulletproof until I would start jumping on waves. Then it would shut off. Couldn't figure it out, so after a lot of headscratching and several expensive tows later, sold the boat to this old man for next to nothing.. A few weeks later the old man comes back and says that he figured it out. The quick disconnect on the fuel line was disengaging enough for check valve to cut of the flow of fuel under stress. That was a $3 part. Wanted to kick the shit out of myself when I heard. Instead kicked the shit out of the old man. Just kidding. :tongue:
I'm sure there are some bike related ones, but most recent was my chevy blazer. had a growling sound that I correctly diagnosed as a wheel bearing, just the wrong end. was thinking rear end. replaced outside axle bearings, no change. replaced differential carrier bearings (rationale - c-clip (7.5") rear ends actually put side load on the diff bearings since the axle bearings float on the axle shafts and the clips put pressure on the gears) , no change. on test drive, my dad and I said at pretty much the same time "sounds like right front". jacked up front, no bearing slop in left, tons on right. remove right front, replace hub (bearings are BALL and "seal" was shot), problem finally solved.
My Ranger had a squeak in the front end that sounded like brakes. But I was sure the pads had plenty of meat on them. Popped the wheels off to investigate and found a small chunk of wood lodged between the dust shield and the rotor on the LF side. Brakes were fine.
The wood was rubbing on the rotor and squeaked occasionally.
It all started when I was 15 and got my first car..................ahh, forget it. I've worked on things my whole life and had plenty of screw ups. I guess that is how we learn and become better at doing things. I even went to college to learn how to work on cars and still screw up once in a while. :ohmy:
Back in the 80's I tried to save money by changing the oil on my 83 Honda Accord One day I could not find the socket wrench I used to remove the oil plug when I was cleaning up. Gave up looking under the car after some time and slammed the hood shut to go back into the house. I figured it will pop up somewhere soon.........Then I noticed that the car suddenly developed a "power bulge" I never noticed near the middle of the hood, right where the air cleaner sits under................ :ohmy: :rolleyes:
Fortunately, I think, I didn't have to live with the stupid mistake too long, a bad hailstorm hit us that summer which neccesitated the replacement of the hood anyway! :rolleyes:
First trip out to colorado on the 4th gen. Just had the carbs rebuilt with new gaskets and that two days before. half a day into the trip, starts running really rough, getting 25mpg, and smells like a trabant. Bike was running mostly fine before the carb rebuild, so I thought it must have been that. Finally made it 1400 miles to my sister's apartment in Ft. Collins, and the bike dies on the driveway.
Get it back home, and after digging through it for days, found that one of the wires on one of the ignition coil came out, and the other one that grounds on the tank pivot bolt came off due to the nut working it's way off. So a bike trip to colorado canceled due to two wires
Remembered another one. Putting the engine back together on the 3000GT. We had to modify it a little bit due to some discrepancy between electronics and sensors between the '93 and '94 models. Couldn't get the thing started. Checked everything out, and it pointed towards the crankshaft sensor. But everything was hooked up. We checked the sensor and it was working as it should. Spent almost two months worth of weekends trying to sort it out. Then one fine day, we looked at both ends of the plugs for the sensor. There was a tiny piece of plastic jammed in the back that was keeping one of the wires from making contact. Fish out the bit of plastic, plug it in, and she fired right up.
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 11 January 2012 - 09:39 AM, said:
See the folder in my gallery called VFR carnage for pictures of when I failed to tighten the locknut on my APE manual cam chain tensioner. It cost me two bent valves, a cam chain, and cam sprocket, gaskets, some time, and my all pride. Luckly, my wife doesn't allow me to keep much of that last item.
Wow! I missed that post. I think I'll stick with my noisy (but foolproof) automatic tensioners...
Makes me think of the time that I had a pesky coolant leak on my then Integra. I couldn't locate it so gave up and took it to a garage. I told them I had a gallon of antifreeze in the trunk if they needed any. When I got back, they had replaced a hose and topped up the coolant. I paid and he said, your coolant is sitting on the ground in front of your car so I grabbed it and put it back in the trunk.
About a month later, I started to notice a sweet smell and coolant on the inside of the windsheild. I put up with it for a few months and eventually ordered a new heater core. A while later I changed the heater core which is a major job considering all the stereo equipment I had in the way plus removing the entire center console. Got it all back together and took a moment to have a closer look at the old core which looked... pretty good. I put a plug in one end and connected a water hose to the other and couldn't make it leak. Over the next couple of days, I was still getting coolant on my window but put it down to condensed coolant in the ducts that was being re-distributed. Not so lucky, the problem continued and got worse.
Eventually, I looked in the trunk for some reason and found the gallon of coolant with the lid loose and the coolant drained out in to the spare tire well. Enough would evaporate to coat the window due to the air movement from the blower.
Cleaned the coolant out of the trunk and problem solved.
i bought my 1st car at age 37... my awesome flat black chevy astro.. :laugh:
it was 200 bucks and had a new tires and full tank of gas!! whooo hooo!
so.. i changed the oil, filter , coolant, air filter and spark plugs.. (the old ones said the motor was tuned PERFECT!")
after a few months a freeze plug started leaking.. so i changed it.. the water pump died.. then another freeze plug.. BEHIND THE TRANSMISSION!!!! :ohmy:
so i dropped the trans myself..
and changed the 2 leaking freeze plugs (($1100 worth of work to change a $1 part!!!).. ..
then the water pump blew AGAIN.. then the last steal freeze plug sprung a leak..... finally.. driving home this new years day.... my heater stopped working.. so i looked under the hood.. and ..... it looked like someone used my motor as a bathroom after eating a 30 pack from taco bell!!!!! :unsure:
this brown mud!! all over.. had me at WTF??????
i used the WRONG COOLANT!!!! 3 freaking years... the coolant messes with the inside making mud!! eating away at the freeze plugs and clogging up the water pumps and heater!!! DOH!!!
well i fixed it last tuesday.. with the correct coolant this time :fing02:
Great thread!
Bike related - paying extra for spark plug replacement when they weren't due/needed (hour's labour for tank removal - $120)?
Or my latest (not bike related) - Call out Hot Water Heater guy, to find that a 65-cent hose clamp was missing. $100!!
Good thing I'm rich instead of handsome or smart! Hold on a sec, I'm not rich either... dang.
[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 11 January 2012 - 03:20 PM, said:
Remembered another one. Putting the engine back together on the 3000GT. We had to modify it a little bit due to some discrepancy between electronics and sensors between the '93 and '94 models. Couldn't get the thing started. Checked everything out, and it pointed towards the crankshaft sensor. But everything was hooked up. We checked the sensor and it was working as it should. Spent almost two months worth of weekends trying to sort it out. Then one fine day, we looked at both ends of the plugs for the sensor. There was a tiny piece of plastic jammed in the back that was keeping one of the wires from making contact. Fish out the bit of plastic, plug it in, and she fired right up.
LOL, this is probably why I couldn't get my FiY to start after the A&A install... But that's not my story, because I haven't actually solved the problem (and there is still a slight chance that it's not my fault!)
My story involves my old VFR750FL, back when I lived in a flat with a small UK-standard garage, but one with no electricity. So, one day I was working on this and that, something at the back and also something near the instruments, with the bike on the centre stand. A bit of tinkering, cleaning, inspecting--that sort of thing. At one point I was having a hard time seeing whatever it was I was working on up front, so I decided to push the bike out of the garage and into the sun (well, the dull, grey London sky, anyway). Gave it a heave towards the divining light...and remembered at just about the same time that I had removed the rear wheel!
BANG!
In case you were wondering, two-wheeled vehicles are even less inherently stable when one "wheel" is only 5mm wide... Fortunately, I was holding onto both bars and although off balance was able to crash my body into the garage wall whilst still keeping the bike vertical, so it didn't fall over. But unfortunately, it wanted to fall away from me, so I was essentially stuck against the wall holding the bike up with both hands. And it was far enough from the wall that I couldn't lean it against the wall. But I could lean it against me (against the wall), so I was eventually able to kick a jack towards me and I used that to stabilise the thing somehow. Total damage? Nil. The brake disc wasn't even scratched, much less bent!
[image: View Post]Beck, on 11 January 2012 - 02:24 PM, said:
Then I noticed that the car suddenly developed a "power bulge" I never noticed near the middle of the hood, right where the air cleaner sits under.......
+1.
Head light blew on the GMC. Took old one out and put it on the radiator shroud. Put new one and and slammed the hood down. Noticed it days later... oops. There are others.. but memory is fuzzy.
This was nearly 30 years ago..........but the lesson sticks with me. I changed the oil on my 78 CB750K. A short time later, I set off for work.
I was a mile or so from home sitting at a traffic light.........light turns green.......I ease the clutch out and slip slide for 20 feet..........WTF. Pull
off the road and take a closer look........the drain plug was hanging by a thread and there was a small puddle of oil where I sat at the light.
Tightened the plug by hand and turned back for a slippery ride home. I was nearly a quart low. Topped it off, put a wrench on the drain plug
and got to work nearly an hour late. Moral of the story..........it's easy to get distracted...........double check all nuts and bolts.
Can't remember a specific instance right now, but while cleaning up, finding a little part that allmost allways makes it so you have to basically re-do the ENTIRE job to properly install said little part is allways a kick in the ass.
Remove the entire dash assembly, including a good couple cups worth of fasteners. This also includes half the interior of the vehicle (both front seats, center console, etc)
Replace leaking evaporator core, re-assemble HVAC case and all related parts.
Get vehicle all back together and full of fluids for shakedown and final test drive before returning to customer. Only to realize that for some reason the heat won't work, at all.
Diagnosis reveals that the temp door in the HVAC box is not moving, it's not the actuator, the door is stuck, hard.
Completely re-do the ENTIRE job because when you put the case halves of the HVAC box back together you somehow managed to jam the temp door on the wrong side of the hard stop......................... :mad: :angry: :owned:
Cuss to yourself because you just turned a one day job into a two day job, cause you were in a hurry putting the damn HVAC box back together.
[image: View Post]gll429, on 11 January 2012 - 08:36 PM, said:
i it looked like someone used my motor as a bathroom after eating a 30 pack from taco bell!!!!! :unsure:
this brown mud!! all over.. had me at WTF??????
i used the WRONG COOLANT!!!! 3 freaking years... the coolant messes with the inside making mud!! eating away at the freeze plugs and clogging up the water pumps and heater!!! DOH!!!
well i fixed it last tuesday.. with the correct coolant this time :fing02:
That brown mud can develop if you have too much pure coolant in the system and not enough water added to make it a 50/50 mix or less. I had it happen to me using Prestone coolant and found out the hard way. It may even happen with the proper coolant if the mix is too strong.
[image: View Post]midlifeVFR, on 12 January 2012 - 04:53 PM, said:
This was nearly 30 years ago..........but the lesson sticks with me. I changed the oil on my 78 CB750K. A short time later, I set off for work.
I was a mile or so from home sitting at a traffic light.........light turns green.......I ease the clutch out and slip slide for 20 feet..........WTF. Pull
off the road and take a closer look........the drain plug was hanging by a thread and there was a small puddle of oil where I sat at the light.
Tightened the plug by hand and turned back for a slippery ride home. I was nearly a quart low. Topped it off, put a wrench on the drain plug
and got to work nearly an hour late. Moral of the story..........it's easy to get distracted...........double check all nuts and bolts.
same here in 1987 on my FZ600. Except I high-sided.
When I was 13 years old, I was seeing if I could get the screws out of my DT100 side case for some reason, just screwing around I guess. anyway to get at this screw I had to remove the oil fill plug, screw fell right in the hole, I needed a hand impact driver to get the rest of the screws out, but I didnt know they wouldnt come out. Anyway I tried to ride the bike with the screw in there, and it went about 20 yards, screw went in between the clutch basket drive gear, locked the motor up, and the centrifical force of the flywheel bent the Crank.
When I was about 20 years old, I was working on a company van, flushing antifreeze, I used some prestone super flush. Then I noticed the bottle (identical) said prestone super sealer, Oh shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 11 January 2012 - 09:39 AM, said:
See the folder in my gallery called VFR carnage for pictures of when I failed to tighten the locknut on my APE manual cam chain tensioner. It cost me two bent valves, a cam chain, and cam sprocket, gaskets, some time, and my all pride. Luckly, my wife doesn't allow me to keep much of that last item.
What caused you to have to readjust your manual tensioner?
My Kronic brand new noisey front tensioner, has now beeen noise free over 60,000 miles. The auto tentioners seem to be life time items, if they are conditioned with car oil for a few thousand miles. My rear tentioner has 91,000 mile noise free, its never had a noise issue.
I guess thinking the hood of the car was shut good,
then finding out you were wrong because pops wide open while driving is not a misdiagnosis.
More of a brain fart. A long time ago, and POS car anyway, so no real harm. :rolleyes:
[image: View Post]spud786, on 15 January 2012 - 10:36 AM, said:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 11 January 2012 - 09:39 AM, said:
See the folder in my gallery called VFR carnage for pictures of when I failed to tighten the locknut on my APE manual cam chain tensioner. It cost me two bent valves, a cam chain, and cam sprocket, gaskets, some time, and my all pride. Luckly, my wife doesn't allow me to keep much of that last item.
What caused you to have to readjust your manual tensioner?
My Kronic brand new noisey front tensioner, has now beeen noise free over 60,000 miles. The auto tentioners seem to be life time items, if they are conditioned with car oil for a few thousand miles. My rear tentioner has 91,000 mile noise free, its never had a noise issue.
I didn't state that I had to readjust the tensioner. This was from putting it in the first time when I failed to tighten the jam nut. And I am (along with many others I'm sure) completely aware of your "car oil fix" to the CCT noise. But I like a specific type of oil, one that is made for motorcycles with wet clutches and constant mesh transmissions.
Oh, I thought you made it through the first time, and later rechecked the valves or something, or the chain required later adjustment.
I havent ran car oil in about 50,000 miles, Back on the diesils presently. Does the lock nut have a threaded stop screw, just wondering if you forgot to tighten on the nut or it just came loose?
I recall you told me you used a crows foot to tighten it, I was asking cause that area is so tightly confined
[image: View Post]spud786, on 16 January 2012 - 08:02 PM, said:
Oh, I thought you made it through the first time, and later rechecked the valves or something, or the chain required later adjustment.
I havent ran car oil in about 50,000 miles, Back on the diesils presently. Does the lock nut have a threaded stop screw, just wondering if you forgot to tighten on the nut or it just came loose?
I recall you told me you used a crows foot to tighten it, I was asking cause that area is so tightly confined
Yeah, that front cylinder one is a real PITA to get at, but totally doable with the right selection of crows foot, extension, swivel, nuther rachet to hold the adjustment shaft, etc, etc, etc.....
![[image: Posted Image]](http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm313/timmythecop/384691_2830300876384_1224974224_3215279_1913696271_n.jpg){kind=link}