Connecting this was a breeze. Now facing couple of problems,...,
1) The Throttle at full open shows 60% on the PCIII software and on the PCIII unit.
2) at 3000K it has started to pop. I did increase the %by 1 and 2 in the 0 and 2 throttle position. but then it starts to surge if i am riding at 3K continuously and eventually F1 light comes on. (using map staintune_European)
3) i have changed it to M101-703 - EU - remus-pipes and stock or AFM filer.djm which is causing the bike to surge at idle and F1 light comes on.
4) I used the Staintune map also ...same issue at 3K
How do i fix the Pt 1 - looks ike there is some limiter not allowing the throttle to open beyond 60%.
- the full throttle open was at a higher number like 20000 i have set it at 19750 which is the reading at full open position.
- Close position : question is this at fully closed or idle position. what i mean is should i take the idle screw out completely so the throttle is completely closed and set the close position at that.
-F1 light now comes out more often - now if i idle for sometime or raise the rpm to 2K the engine hesitates and F1 light comes on.,.....and Sometimes blinks...
- I think i will disconnect the map or run it at 0 zero mapping to see if this still happens...
- the full throttle open was at a higher number like 20000 i have set it at 19750 which is the reading at full open position.
- Close position : question is this at fully closed or idle position. what i mean is should i take the idle screw out completely so the throttle is completely closed and set the close position at that.
-F1 light now comes out more often - now if i idle for sometime or raise the rpm to 2K the engine hesitates and F1 light comes on.,.....and Sometimes blinks...
- I think i will disconnect the map or run it at 0 zero mapping to see if this still happens...
The closed position is just with the throttle closed - do not remove the idle screw. Remember that the idle speed screw does not adjust the throttle butterflies but rather it adjusts the air bypass (starter) valves.
You need to tell us what those FI error codes are mate so that we can diagnose the problem.
- the full throttle open was at a higher number like 20000 i have set it at 19750 which is the reading at full open position.
- Close position : question is this at fully closed or idle position. what i mean is should i take the idle screw out completely so the throttle is completely closed and set the close position at that.
-F1 light now comes out more often - now if i idle for sometime or raise the rpm to 2K the engine hesitates and F1 light comes on.,.....and Sometimes blinks...
- I think i will disconnect the map or run it at 0 zero mapping to see if this still happens...
The closed position is just with the throttle closed - do not remove the idle screw. Remember that the idle speed screw does not adjust the throttle butterflies but rather it adjusts the air bypass (starter) valves.
You need to tell us what those FI error codes are mate so that we can diagnose the problem.
it is on continuously...it did start to blink but it stops when i put the engine switch off
but it goes off if i switch off the bike , wait and put it on again.
F1 light on continous
Strts blinking if sidestand down
Good, those are the blinks you need to read. Can you count them for us? Remember a long flash = 10, short flash = 1. So a long and short flash would be code 11. Remember that there is a pause between codes (if there are multiple codes) and a very long pause, then the cycle of codes will repeat.
it was blinking only once...which meant the MAP sensor fault. I have reset the codes, cleaned the sockets at map sensor and fitted them back. No more codes at this point. Taken the bike for a short spin - so far no issues. Will ride it for couple of days and check if the problem comes back.
it was blinking only once...which meant the MAP sensor fault. I have reset the codes, cleaned the sockets at map sensor and fitted them back. No more codes at this point. Taken the bike for a short spin - so far no issues. Will ride it for couple of days and check if the problem comes back.
then fit the PCIII back ...and hope for the best
Yup that severe tumple/hesitation at low rpms is quite indicative of a MAP sensor fault. Once the FI light comes on the bike will often run better because it ignores the MAP sensor from then on until the bike is turned off and back on again.
Also at wider throttle positions the problem goes away because the ECU always ignores the MAP sensor and just uses the throttle position sensor and engine speed to calculate the fuel.