Stripped Oil Drain Plug, am I screwed?

Hello,

So last night I had a brain fart and tried to TIGHTEN my oil drain plug instead of lossen and when it began to freely spin, I finally realized my error.  Here's a pic of the damaged plug, threads and worked over washer.  If I just get a new plug will this hopefully still work?  Might I need to re-tap the treads in the pan or am I totally screwed and will need to replace that oil pan?  Please help!

Thanks in advance, Rob

[image: Posted Image]

I did that to my 1998, I ended up drilling it out and tapping it with a larger plug, I had to take out the pan.  First try a new plug before doing anything those threads look  stretched so maybe the pan is ok.  The oil pan is soft aluminum so its probably stripped too.

Miguel has answered your question........ My post, since I can get mixed up "as well" on which way to turn a bolt, I've gotten in the habit of getting a "mental" image of looking down at the head of the bolt and knowing that CW is on and CCW is off....... This usually needs to be done when the bolt I'm working on is upside down.......So don't feel bad.

Also a lot of ppl on here have made comments that using the required amount torque can lead to over doing it...... I will be lighting up on mine as well.....using a new crush washer is a good way to prevent this(which is something I should do as well, instead of every other time).... Good lock with yours, and thanks for posting, it wakes us up.....

Agree with HS. I'd look to see if you can tell whether you stripped the threads in the pan first, as I would think that would give first. But the threads on that bold do look a bit folded in, so maybe you'll be lucky(ish) and just need a new bolt.

'Timesert' is an option too...

http://www.timesert.com/

Chuck

Wow.  I don't know what torque specs you are using, but an oil drain plug bolt in an aluminum pan should never need enough force to round off the head, or especially curl up a washer like that. Take 'er easy, champ.  Righty tighty, lefty loosey.   :wink:


Anyway, I concur with the others, you probably definitely boogered the pan if you boogered the harder steel bolt.  Pans are not *that* expensive.  If you want to be sure, get a new one.  Good luck.

Timeserts have bailed me out more than once - good stuff.  The threads on the bolt look like they may have picked up material from the aluminum threads through galling.  If you can't get a good look at the threads with a mirror, you could remove the plastic and lay the bike over on some moving pads or similar to get a better view.  If they do need repair, I would be inclined to remove the pan to do so to keep trash out of the oil.   I always use a ratchet when removing the drain plug, that way I can set the proper direction with it in my hand so once on the plug, the ratchet tells me which way to turn - no guessing involved.  Good luck with it.

The timesert looks interesting, possibly more reassuring than a heli-coil although I have not had problems with the limited number of heli-coils I've used.

Timesert's website suggests drilling and tapping the oil pan while still installed is possible by drilling slow and using grease on the drill/tap, then pouring the old oil through again to rinse any chips out.  I suppose you'd want to initially drain into a clean container.

BC

Thanks for all the info folks, for the record, I *was* trying to remove the bolt, not Superman the thing back on...

I can see a bit inside the pan and there was quite a bit of aluminum residue so I may have messed up the pan.  If so, then it's a $120 mistake and one I soon won't forget, could be worse I guess...

Really appreciate the responses, I love this forum!

[image: View Post]Monk, on 06 March 2012 - 01:28 PM, said:

Miguel has answered your question........ My post, since I can get mixed up "as well" on which way to turn a bolt, I've gotten in the habit of getting a "mental" image of looking down at the head of the bolt and knowing that CW is on and CCW is off....... This usually needs to be done when the bolt I'm working on is upside down.......So don't feel bad.

Also a lot of ppl on here have made comments that using the required amount torque can lead to over doing it...... I will be lighting up on mine as well.....using a new crush washer is a good way to prevent this(which is something I should do as well, instead of every other time).... Good lock with yours, and thanks for posting, it wakes us up.....

Monk - what size crush washer?  Is it something that I can get at a parts store or do I need to order a bag of them online?  (about time for first oil change since I bought the bike)

Miguel has answered your question........ My post, since I can get mixed up "as well" on which way to turn a bolt, I've gotten in the habit of getting a "mental" image of looking down at the head of the bolt and knowing that CW is on and CCW is off....... This usually needs to be done when the bolt I'm working on is upside down.......So don't feel bad.

Also a lot of ppl on here have made comments that using the required amount torque can lead to over doing it...... I will be lighting up on mine as well.....using a new crush washer is a good way to prevent this(which is something I should do as well, instead of every other time).... Good lock with yours, and thanks for posting, it wakes us up.....

Monk - what size crush washer? Is it something that I can get at a parts store or do I need to order a bag of them online? (about time for first oil change since I bought the bike)

Crush washers are supposed to be replaced every other oil change (i.e. every 6,000 miles). Since this isn't very often, I just pay a buck for a "genuine" Honda crush washer from the dealership.

I'm in north Dallas if you ever wanna hook up and ride.

Miguel has answered your question........ My post, since I can get mixed up "as well" on which way to turn a bolt, I've gotten in the habit of getting a "mental" image of looking down at the head of the bolt and knowing that CW is on and CCW is off....... This usually needs to be done when the bolt I'm working on is upside down.......So don't feel bad.

Also a lot of ppl on here have made comments that using the required amount torque can lead to over doing it...... I will be lighting up on mine as well.....using a new crush washer is a good way to prevent this(which is something I should do as well, instead of every other time).... Good lock with yours, and thanks for posting, it wakes us up.....

Monk - what size crush washer? Is it something that I can get at a parts store or do I need to order a bag of them online? (about time for first oil change since I bought the bike)

http://www.hdlparts....=2002&fveh=3951

I replaced all my oil drain plugs with Fumoto valves.
Might be the way to go once you get the hole fixed.

Paul in SoCal

Well I got two new plugs. Hand screwed in the first one until halfway then needed to force it, then I added oil and ran it until it got 150 degrees, then shut it off, then I removed the plug and drained the oil again and removed all the small slivers of aluminum that got pushed out. Then on the second oil plug and refill, I screwed it all the way til flush, then it spun kinda freely until it caught and now it's tight, just did a test ride around the block and no leakage, hopefully this will hold, and I'm not fooling myself, soon I'll have to replace the oil pan or tap it for a new plug... Thanks again for everyone's help!

I screwed it all the way til flush, then it spun kinda freely until it caught

That's an oil slick waiting to happen. Do everyone in the Seattle motorcycling community a favor and have it fixed properly before you hurt an innocent rider by dumping oil all over your favorite corner.

Or safety wire it.

.... it spun kinda freely until it caught.....

Or safety wire it.

Safety wire only keeps it from un-screwing. If the bolt isn't screwed into anything (as referenced by then it spun kinda freely until it caught) the safety wire is futile.

The only thing the safety wire will do at this point is keep the bolt from ending up on the roadway along with the oil. Safety wire should never be the primary form of retention.

Re-read what he said "spun freely AFTER it was flush" so, yeah, oil slick waiting to happen.

Wow, lots of faith out there, you folks must think I have this thing loosely attached. For the record, it threaded the whole way through then spun without resistance for about a turn then is now tight. It's been tested around the neighborhood and rechecked, the bolt doesn't seem to have changed and is still super snug.

I'm curious what would cause the oil spill? Plug completely fall out? Pressure built up enough to blow past the crush washer? This isn't my first stripped bolt and I've had many react this way and never undo, just wondering what you think is physically going to happen. I'm no engineer but there are still plenty of good threads in the pan and the plug so maybe the "spun freely" comment made it seem like it had no grab at all, where in fact there is plenty of grab...

As everyone said, there are only two possible paths to follw:
1 - Re-tap the buggered hole
2 - Replace the pan.
The fact that it holds oil means nothing. It will let go with out any doubt.

I don't see how a steel bolt can look like the old one that you showed us, and the threads of a aluminium threaded hole can still be ok........Just saying..

As everyone said, there are only two possible paths to follw:
1 - Re-tap the buggered hole
2 - Replace the pan.
The fact that it holds oil means nothing. It will let go with out any doubt.

Thanks for the info, I'll just replace the oil pan. Anyone have an idea of what the part number for the oil pan gasket is? Closest I found was this description - "Oil Strainer Gasket" Is this the one? About $5.50.

There's a phone number at the top of the page of the link I posted for you, they should be able to help.
I found two gasket kits(A & B) on the thing but no pic's to help.

That's definitely not it... although I cannot find the correct gasket on the parts diagram. The strainer gasket is #6 on this diagram:

[image: Posted Image]

I would imagine some black RTV would work in this case. Anybody else?

Thanks for the info, I'll just replace the oil pan. Anyone have an idea of what the part number for the oil pan gasket is? Closest I found was this description - "Oil Strainer Gasket" Is this the one? About $5.50.

According to my 5th gen manual (I would assume the 6th gen is the same), it says:

"Clean the oil pan mating surface thoroughly.
Apply Three Bond 1207B or an equivalent to the mating surface.
CAUTION:
Do not apply sealant more than necessary. "

There is no gasket on the oil pan, I use yamabond on it though. Basically the same stuff as the manual specifies. Yamabond is industry standard.

1207B Non solvent type silicone-based

• 
  

  Has high viscosity and excellent protuberance, and works effectively for the joint surfaces that have a larger clearance.

• 
  

  Excellent engine-oil and LLC resistance.

• 
  

  Dries quickly and offers excellent pressure resistance immediately after applying and assembling.

• 
  

  Does not corrode copper and copperbased alloys.

• 
  

  Cures even if it is left at high temperature of 120°C in uncured state.

http://www.threebond...30/Default.aspx

Thanks for the info, I'll just replace the oil pan. Anyone have an idea of what the part number for the oil pan gasket is? Closest I found was this description - "Oil Strainer Gasket" Is this the one? About $5.50.

According to my 5th gen manual (I would assume the 6th gen is the same), it says: "Clean the oil pan mating surface thoroughly. Apply Three Bond 1207B or an equivalent to the mating surface. CAUTION: Do not apply sealant more than necessary. "

Gen 6 manual language is identical.

Thanks for the feedback folks, I actually need it for a ride this weekend so I'm just going to have a Heli Coil installed by a dealer and call it good. I appreciate everyone's ass kicking to not let that plug stay in as is. Take care!

I have had a drainplug fail whilst riding. Instant high-side and alot of pain. Ever since then I have snugged drainplugs a tad and then safety wired them.

I have had a drainplug fail whilst riding. Instant high-side and alot of pain.

This rider was more fortunate :ohmy:
http://youtu.be/oMMUJqeQYtU

That is nothing short of amazing video. Great find, Rosso. That rider is so lucky it isn't even funny.

I think every person here should consider drilling their plug bolt and plug guard tab for lock wire.

After I tighten my oil drain plug on my VFR or Goldwing I always add a dab of blue RTV (a bead from the oil pan onto the drain plug). I let it dry overnight. The drain plug can not loosen on it's own now. RTV is easy to remove at next oil change.

Mark

Add me to the list of idiots who has effed this up. Did the exact same thing. For extra fun, when the 3/8" ratchet wouldn't give me enough force to 'loosen' it, my dumb ass grabbed the 1/2" breaker. My washer ended up looking the exact same way.


It's off to the shop with the bike. I could fix it, but I'm too pissed at myself to try. Plus I have a track day a week from this Friday, so this is not the time to play Johnny Mechanic and screw it up worse then I already have.

Mike

Also, a friend just called me from the grandstands at Daytona to say he had test ridden a Kawasaki ZX-14 (said it was "awesome"), and when I asked what was causing all the background noise I was hearing he was kind enough to point out (rub it in?) it was the announcer's voice I was hearing and how he and another friend of ours were waiting for the 200 to get underway.

That is cruel! Hope you can get even when you do his taxes. :goofy:

Thanks for all the help folks, got the Heli Coil installed at a shop yesterday, less than an hour and I was in and out. Good for peace of mind. Have a great weekend!

How hard was the removal and install of the pan itself? I have the bike at my trusted local shop, but they're not optimistic about being able to get it done in the time I need (track day coming up).

Mike