Can someone give me simple instructions for wiring a Kuryakyn voltmeter to my Y2K? Which wire to tap, grounding, etc. Thanks!
Wiring a voltmeter
9 posts Started 17 Mar 2012 Last recovered post 23 Mar 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 11 Apr 2013
Regardless of the voltmeter the concept is essentially the same. You want to buy an automotive 12V relay and wire the coil (low current) contacts to a switched source, the tail light hot wire is a good choice with the other side grounded on the frame. Then, make a wire going from the battery (+) contact through a fuse/fusebox to one of the switched (high current) contacts of the relay. Finally, wire the final switched (high current) contact of the relay to your voltmeter.
AnikMankar will be along shortly with his diagram :fing02:
I put it to good use...
I put it to good use...
A relay works fine, but a 2nd alternative is just to put a switch in line with the positive side plus a fuse. The benefit is you can check the battery before you power up the bike.
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
[image: VFR800 VOLT Meter]
VFR800 VOLT Meter
here you go
VFR800 VOLT Meter
here you go
So I'm using the fusebox bundle with a VFRNess on a '00. I've 'joined' the wiring from my voltmeter to some accessories that run to the VFRNess fusebox. Specifically, the voltmeter taps into the positive wire that goes from my 12v accessory outlet to the VFRNess fusebox on a 15amp fuse. The negative wire from the voltmeter is joined with the negatives from the heated grips and 12v accessory which all three tie into a ground point on the R/R bolt.
I'm getting readings I don't like from the voltmeter, so I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my wiring.
VFRNess - Top View
VFRNess - Left View
2000 VFR VFRNess to hopefully prevent electrical issues
I'm getting readings I don't like from the voltmeter, so I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my wiring.
VFRNess - Top View
VFRNess - Left View
2000 VFR VFRNess to hopefully prevent electrical issues
Something to check - see what your voltmeter says, and then do a direct check with a multimeter in comparison. -- Mine is 1/10 of a volt difference between the meter upfront and the multimeter direct on the battery.
You would be better off having the voltmeter on a dedicated line not spliced with the accessory outlet. Those outlets are pretty noisy, especially running external devices that pull a variable amount of current. That would cause the voltage of the battery to fluctuate slightly due to the load. But as mello dude said, check with the meter first.
Unfortunately, I don't have a voltage "meter", it's a voltage "monitor". Displays red, yellow, green depending on voltage RANGE. For that reason, it's impossible to be too precise. When I get time, I'll try the direct connect method at least as a test.
End of thread · 9 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 11 Apr 2013