Help! Sticking throttle @ full open

My symptom is that my throttle sticks at 7/8 to wide open, otherwise operates normally.  It started when I  installed helibars and st1100 throttle cables.  Cables are routed as the factory ones were, and there is no binding or rev up on lock to lock steering..  To troubleshoot, I disconnected at the throttle body linkage, same result, cables feel stiff at the end of travel.  I  Disconnected the cables at the throttle tube, and the cables work fine.  No binding.  Throttle tube replaced, but did not help  It seems that if I loosen the right hand switch, I can make it spin freely, as if the clamping force is making the throttle tube bind in the last 8th of a turn..  Like there is not enough clearance inside the switch housing for the tube.  

Any ideas on what I am missing?

Double check that the pin in the throttle housing assembly is fitting into the hole in the bottom of Heli-bar. I had a similar issue and found that the housing wasn't properly lined up. I made sure the pin was lined up and put the housing together and all was well.

Cheers!

post pictures of the following...
* throttle body side where you have connected the cable
* cable routing at the handlebar side.

mine - helibar with ST1100 cable

[image: index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=img_ctrl&img=586] ST1100 Throttle cable fitting Album: Helibar - Handles Uploaded 25 Mar 2012 - 09:09

Sticking throttle....................








[image: Posted Image]

I will post some pics, but looks just like yours with the exception that I have one jam nut on each side of the cable retainer on the "pull to open" top cable.

Did you ever get this sussed out?

Not sorted yet. I took pics, but can't upload from an iPad.  I have been driving my cage in the meanwhile.  Thanks for checking.

Ok - Here are the routing pics, I have not pulled the tank up to snap the other end, but is basically has the top cable with a jam nut on each side of the holder, and the bottom cable with one closest to the "cam" where the cables terminate.

Pics of the routing as follow:

Routing from the right side
[image: 0411120742.jpg]

Tied to right fork leg
[image: 0411120742a.jpg]

Routing inside the left fork
[image: 0411120743.jpg]

Back toward the  throttle cam
[image: 0411120744.jpg]

Wondering - if I don't have enough slack, would that cause a percieved binding at near wide open?  Otherwise I am stumped, as the parts independantly seem to work fine, it is only assembled that it breaks. Idea's welcomed.

Your routing looks ok..except for mine i have passed the cable between the fork and the steering stem as it was pulling/touching the dash panel.

You should remove any slack in the red and blue areas near the grip- basically screw it right in. this will give you some slack at the other end (throttle body)

[image: index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=img_ctrl&img=588] $slack Album: Helibar - Handles Uploaded 12 Apr 2012 - 23:35



Before you fit the cables to the body just check if the pull push action works and the cables move freely...

The zip-ty in the 2nd pic might be messing up the cable flow. Cut that and see if that helps.

Well, I can't explain why, but I did find the solve..  After much testing I determined that the cables, cable routing, and throttle body connections were all fine.  As a last resort I took my old clip on, mounted the throttle to it, and viola - it was fine.  When I mic'd the old and new bars, I found that the helibars were slightly smaller in diameter.  Sooo, I took a bit of heat shrink, and put it where the switch housing would sandwich it when mounted.  Sure enough, that cured my sticking throttle.  I guess I was " over closing" the clamshell of the kill switch housing and that was causing the throttle tube to bind at the end of travel as the cable mount point head into the bottom of the housing.  At any rate, all fixed!!!!

Yeah!