Rear brake dragging after installing BLS peg lowering blocks - Fifth Generation VFR's

I have a 1999 VFR.

I recently installed a set of rider peg lowering blocks from Larry at BusyLittleShop (BLS). They are amazing.

I cut off about 1/4"(with a dremmel) from the threaded end of the rear master cylinder piston as recommended and lowered the pedal by rotating the piston.

Now the rear brakes drags badly. The pads eventually back off the rear disc if I let the bike stand. I have even disconnected the pedal in an effort to isolate and diagnose the problem. The rear brake drags even if I push the threaded piston up with my hand, it will not reset!

The front brake lever and front brakes work and reset fine (obviously operating the front brake lever does activate the one piston in the rear (Honda LBS) brake.

Cannot figure out the problem here. It is related to my installing the lowering blocks and adjusting the pedal for comfort. The problem persists even with the pedal in any position/disconnected.

I had no issue prior to installing the blocks and adjusting the pedal.

Any assistant would be of much help.

I am mystified!

Stephenm

The only thing I can think of is in the process of messing with the rear master cylinder piston, is that it could have been pushed in too far(which is to say with age it may have some cleaning that needs to be done on the part).
You saying that it backs off with time leads me in this direction.

Read my thread here, and pay careful attention to the mod I did with the rear brake master cylinder.

I have no dragging issues in the 5 years since the install.

http://www.vfrdiscus...-block-install/

Veefer thank you for the response.

I followed your instructions carefully since Larry forwarded them to me prior to the blocks arriving, the information was very detailed and much appreciated.

#1 Lowered the pedal by turning the threaded rod, this bottomed out on the locknut. The pedal was not far enough down.
#2 Removed the locknut + turned the threaded rod out further, it then bottomed out on the back of the pedal which was still not far enough down.
#3 Removed 1/4" off the end of the threaded rod with a dremmel, backed the threaded rod out further and found the perfect sweet spot for the pedal and my boot.

Problem is the dreaded rear brake binding. I have since adjusted the pedal both up and down, as well as completely disconnecting the threaded rod from the pedal altogether. The binding only goes away after the bike sits for a time.

The pads naturally are getting very hot and I am afraid the disk will warp.

I did not mess with the two springs, (cannot see how they could be causing the problem since it remains with the pedal disconnected from the rear master cylinder).
Do I need to remove some hydraulic brake fluid from the rear brake reservoir?

I very much appreciate you and any other members assisting with this vexing matter.

BTW I am English and got the reference of "Pimps + Queers" (Sears) but not "I give it 4.5 William and Kate's out of 5"

Cheers

Stephenm

 Stephenm, on 28 April 2012 - 09:27 PM, said:

BTW I am English and got the reference of "Pimps + Queers" (Sears) but not "I give it 4.5 William and Kate's out of 5"

Cheers

Stephenm

heh, that's terry, he's just whacky.

I think it's like olympic judging, 9.5, 9.5, 9.4, soviet judge 3.2, etc.


I'm sorry, I can't think of what else might be causing your brake problem. Maybe bleed and flush the rear brake system is all I got.

Unless something is causing your pedal to stick or bind in a downwards position. I know there were some folks who adapted Honda master cylinders to Cafe racers and used an external return spring from the body of the master cylinder to the pedal pivot to cause it to extend fully, and take the hydraulic pressure off the system as the pedal returns to it's fully up position.

Maybe remove the master cylinder and rod, but leave the brake pedal in place, and work it up and down to see if you can determine what, if anything, is keeping it from retracting upwards as far as needed?

Hiya Stephen... great post and responses... Peg Blocks are an
exclusive VRFD product that is supported by the members especially
Rob... I don't always have access to a VFR but they do and are always
willing to help...

Steps to eliminate unwanted rear brake drag are:

1 Un bolt the rear caliper and separate it from the bracket that holds
floating pins... clean and grease pins...

2 Remove one of the pads to allow space to pump the pistons out far
enough to clean any the build up of brake dust... clean all 3 pistons
with a gray micro fine 3M pad and flush with Acetone...

3 Check fluid color... Dot 3 Dot 4 fresh out of the bottle is clear
with a tint of gold but its designed to turn the color brown in direct
proportion to moisture content... so if you see brown fluid you are
over due for a fluid change... when you are pumping the lever make
sure the master cylinder piston is returning with the threaded rod...
if the piston is hanging up on something internal then you'll need to
go inside and determine what it is that is causing to piston to hang
up... at this point rebuilding the master cylinder and install new
seals is in order...

You have my phone number for support if you have any more questions...

 BusyLittleShop, on 29 April 2012 - 01:31 AM, said:

Hiya Stephen... great post and responses... Peg Blocks are an
exclusive VRFD product that is supported by the members especially
Rob... I don't always have access to a VFR but they do and are always
willing to help...

Steps to eliminate unwanted rear brake drag are:

1 Un bolt the rear caliper and separate it from the bracket that holds
floating pins... clean and grease pins...

2 Remove one of the pads to allow space to pump the pistons out far
enough to clean any the build up of brake dust... clean all 3 pistons
with a gray micro fine 3M pad and flush with Acetone...

3 Check fluid color... Dot 3 Dot 4 fresh out of the bottle is clear
with a tint of gold but its designed to turn the color brown in direct
proportion to moisture content... so if you see brown fluid you are
over due for a fluid change... when you are pumping the lever make
sure the master cylinder piston is returning with the threaded rod...
if the piston is hanging up on something internal then you'll need to
go inside and determine what it is that is causing to piston to hang
up... at this point rebuilding the master cylinder and install new
seals is in order...

You have my phone number for support if you have any more questions...
Now this is service after the sale!!!!!
:fing02: :fing02: :fing02: To BLS

 BusyLittleShop, on 29 April 2012 - 01:31 AM, said:

Check fluid color... Dot 3 Dot 4 fresh out of the bottle is clear
with a tint of gold but its designed to turn the color brown in direct
proportion to moisture content...

I learn something every day here.  Thanks Larry!

Always assumed that it was from dirt... :rolleyes:

I now that many of you already know this (I am new to this site) but.............if you read my scenario up top Larry has every right to respond by saying "you bought your goods (peg powering blocks), your happy with them, now on your way".

However as CharlesW pointed out BLS has more than stella customer service/follow up, I would purchase form them again in a heart beat.

Thank you Larry for the tips and I will follow your sage advise.

Now if any can help with the above cockney rhyming slang quoted in the original peg lowering thread by terry, my question is :-

"BTW I am English and got the reference of "Pimps + Queers" (Sears) but not "I give it 4.5 William and Kate's out of 5"