Modifying my HF Lift - wider is better?

I've put my HF motorcycle lift through the paces.  It has seen my VFR, an R1, and a 1980 Suzuki.

I've had both of my lawn tractors on it, but that's where it gets dicey.

I bought the less expensive of the lifts HF offers, and the deck is just over 2 feet wide.  My bigger lawn mower just fits on it if I ride the tires along the ridge of the deck.  Putting my Honda Rancher on it is right out of the question.


Here's my thought, since extension wings are not available (I'm a computer engineer, not a mechE, so you folks can tell me if I'm way out in left field):

Using 3/4" black pipe (gas pipe), 2 10' lengths cut down to 5' so I have four 5' lengths.

I will u-bolt the 4 pipes to the deck, and then attach 2x8's to the black pipe (again with u-bolts).

The black pipe will ride on the deck ridges, so the 2x8's can slide in or out depending on the width needed (lawn mowers vs the rancher).


Will this work or end up a tragic Darwin moment?

sketch please?

My dad got some cheap lift. Second biggest problem with it is that it rocks side to side and isn't very rigid or stable. Not to the point where I'm worried that the bike is going to topple, but not very confidence inspiring. How's yours?

Maybe something like this kit, but much cheaper?
http://www.gregsmith...e-Extension-Kit

Sketch... yeah... I'll get right on that yosh... maybe easier to just layout the stuff I've already purchased.  Lift is very stable at full extension (so far).

Wera803 - that's essentially what I'm building, but with wood.  I think I have about $30 into the project.

Don't see a big reason why it wouldn't work. Maybe grind out some grooves for the pipe to sit in on the side ridges so it's more than just the U-bolts keeping it in place. Or is that the deck ridges you mentioned? And find a way to pin the pipes in place so they don't slide side to side when you don't want them to.

I've seen lifts that already have U bolts in them, maybe for a similar purpose.

It would be nice to triangulate some support underneath the extensions and tie it in to the main lift body, that way all of the load on the extensions won't be supported solely by the top stud of the u bolt. A drawing would be nice, because I may be misunderstanding your intended design.

Here's a mock up with PVC and a 2x4

[image: uploadfromtaptalk1336512673577.jpg]

Hope you understand where I'm headed now

[image: View Post]y2kvfr, on 08 May 2012 - 04:31 PM, said:

Here's a mock up with PVC and a 2x4

Hope you understand where I'm headed now

Nut House! :ohmy:











j/k   :laugh:

The outer edge of the lift table, does that flange bend up or down?

Still don't see too much wrong. Maybe instead of doing the grooves like I said, use a 2x4 so the pipes are sitting on the 2x4, which is pushing down on the deck. That way the weight isn't sitting on the side ridges. Even better idea if you cut some V's into the 2x4 so the pipe sits in there nicely.

I would, at the very least, find a way to strongly widen the base of the lift itself.  If it's the one I'm thinking of (sissor style lift) they are inherently wobbly and unstable to begin with by design.  Extra support for the widend lift table is a good idea too, but the stability of the entire lift would be my first problem to tackle.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 08 May 2012 - 08:50 PM, said:

The outer edge of the lift table, does that flange bend up or down?
Flange goes up.

[image: View Post]YoshiHNS, on 08 May 2012 - 08:51 PM, said:

Still don't see too much wrong. Maybe instead of doing the grooves like I said, use a 2x4 so the pipes are sitting on the 2x4, which is pushing down on the deck. That way the weight isn't sitting on the side ridges. Even better idea if you cut some V's into the 2x4 so the pipe sits in there nicely.

Hmmm... That's an idea.  That would spread the weight across more of the deck too.

[image: View Post]Metallican525, on 08 May 2012 - 09:14 PM, said:

I would, at the very least, find a way to strongly widen the base of the lift itself.  If it's the one I'm thinking of (sissor style lift) they are inherently wobbly and unstable to begin with by design.  Extra support for the widend lift table is a good idea too, but the stability of the entire lift would be my first problem to tackle.

For the inexpensive price, this is pretty darn stable.  Lift is below...

[image: Posted Image]

Here's a few thoughts.

1. I would hang the pipes under the table to make full contact with the deck. When you put the weight on the ends of the pipes, they will try to bow. Having them underneath, the deck will naturally act as a reinforcement. Plus you'll get full engagement vs sitting on top of those flanges- not good IMO.

2. Widening the base will add the most benefit when you get your wide vehicle up and decide to jack up one side or the other. To change a tire or wheel, for example.

3. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 3/8" for the u bolts, and 1/8 wall pipe between 1.5-2.0" diameter.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 09 May 2012 - 05:39 AM, said:

2. Widening the base will add the most benefit when you get your wide vehicle up and decide to jack up one side or the other. To change a tire or wheel, for example.

:+1:    The newer Greg Smith Equip. lifts come with a wider stabilizer bar (which mine does not have).

[image: Posted Image]