Since I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Find someone local to help you. You'd be surprised at how far a lunch and/or adult beverage might go.
Dealers charge by the hour and for whatever parts, fluids and disposal fees that they can charge for, so you're probably looking at a decent amount of money, depending on their hourly labor rate is of course. You should be able to do the clutch yourself as there is only 1 line to worry about. Although the linked braking system can be a little intimidating so I feel for you there. Sometime in the near future I plan on swapping out the rubber hoses for steel braided lines and I am still debating on whether I will do this job myself. I'm not afraid of doing it, as I have experience working on vehicles, it's the time and work space that keeps me from just jumping in and doing it.
Try doing the clutch yourself and see if you feel OK with that. It's always possible one of our members close to you with experience can lend a hand. Maybe cost you an afternoon, some pizza and beer and you get to learn something and meet someone from the forum.
Cheers.
SEBSPEEDFind someone local to help you. You'd be surprised at how far a lunch and/or adult beverage might go.
:+1:
Duc2V4Sometime in the near future I plan on swapping out the rubber hoses for steel braided lines
That was one of the first things I wanted to do to this bike, until I saw the price tag on just the lines! Sticker shock is an understatement.
Find someone local to help you. You'd be surprised at how far a lunch and/or adult beverage might go.
I thought about that, but the guy local to me de-linked his brakes and said he had never done the stock brake lines.
I have a friend who works on cars that might be able to help, but I have no idea if he has experience with linked brake systems.
Bleeding a line is the same all around, it's the different bleed points in the linked braking system that makes it seem more complicated than it really is. If your local guy is mechanically inclined I don't see why you two wouldn't be successful. I believe the workshop manual details the process enough to do it yourself (or with help). Have your friend read the manual and see what he thinks. If he thinks it's beyond his skill level, then take it to a reputable shop, preferably one who knows linked braking systems.
Cheers
I avoid dealerships when possible. I like Duc's advice, try the clutch either with yourself or with a friend. Hopefully you'll feel more confident to do the brakes, and if not then at least your keeping some money in your pocket. The fact that your manual goes into such detail is a good thing. Just go step by step.
Plenty of previously documented instances here as well. Take some time and search here. You can do it!
Whereas me, I prefer to pay a dealer (Arie Molenaar, a renowned one) for this critical work. From what I recall it was less than an hour labor, about enough time for a free coffee and a wander around the sales floor....
marriedmanSince I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Hmmm. Your profile indicates that you have a 4th gen. that should be considerably easier to bleed than more recent issues (which have front and rear brakes connected). Here's a couple of thoughts for you.
1) Don't bleed them!
"Say what?"
Bleeding is how you get air out of the hydraulics. Air gets introduced only if a) you have drained the system entirely (perhaps to clean it), or b) you screwed up and sucked air while replacing brake fluid. In other words, there's no need to have air to bleed air, in the first place. (The shop manual takes you through the process from empty to full. You don't have to worry about that, since your system is full to start with).
Instead, chase the old fluid out with new fluid. This is *much* easier. Which brings me to...
2) Install something called Speedbleeders in place of the the brake bleeding ports. Speedbleeders are one-way valves (check valves) that allow fluid out, but prevent air from being sucked in. They'll cost you a few bucks, but probably a lot less than your mechanic will pound you for, and well worth every penny.
3) Not a necessity with Speedbleeders installed, but having a hand-held vacuum pump makes the process easier. Many of us use Mityvac's offerings, which serves the purpose well for not a lot of money.
4) Get a second person to top off the master master cylinders periodically, while you suck the old fluid out at the calipers. They can also work the brake levers to run fluid though the system, and out the bleed ports.
If you have no context for this yet, don't worry. it's really not all that hard. Read any internet description of brake bleeding, and you'll quickly get the idea. It's scary the first time, but soon just another task to get done.
Finally, and this happens to all of us (c'mon, admit it guys), sometimes you do get an air bubble. Learned a nifty trick once that works wonders. Compress the brake overnight (for example, by tightening the brake lever with a tie wrap around the right grip. A little more ingenuity is required for the rear brake). In the morning, release the brake lever. Bleed out a bit of brake fluid. Top off reservoir. Check brakes. Ride.
Seriously, first time jitters(and they are reasonable!) will pass. If you are at all mechanically inclined, go for it.
Good luck,
Aram
awacsHmmm. Your profile indicates that you have a 4th gen. that should be considerably easier to bleed than more recent issues (which have front and rear brakes connected).
Mine is a 99 5th gen (right?). The brake system on this one is linked, isn't it?
marriedmanawacsHmmm. Your profile indicates that you have a 4th gen. that should be considerably easier to bleed than more recent issues (which have front and rear brakes connected).Mine is a 99 5th gen (right?). The brake system on this one is linked, isn't it?
Oops, sorry. I must have read the wrong profile. Yep, linked.
That said, I stand by my previous rambling. Chase the old out with the new, not too hard.
Aram
marriedman,
Will this help...........................?
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/UpFxz-5F1DY?feature=oembed]LH
Awacs makes some good points and the speed bleeders will probably make things easier too. However, if you weren't inclined to replace your bleeders, Motion Pro makes an "inline" speed bleeder tool that works just like the speed bleeders except you don't have to replace anything. http://motionpro.com...o_mini_bleeder/ It is pricey, $24.99 (MSRP) but it's probably cheaper/easier than replacing all your bleeders. There's also a poorman's version of a speed bleeder, I haven't tried this yet but may give it a go when I do the clutch on the Ducati. http://pstca.com/art...htm#TheSolution
I think that giving your clutch a go at first, you'll see it isn't all that difficult.
Cheers.
marriedmanSince I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Dealers don't "screw you over" , they offer trained, licensed, insured mechanics who know exactly what they are doing, for this they charge the going rate and they know how to do it without wasting time, their work is also warrantied. When you leave the dealer after a brake service you know it's done right, and you don't have to spend weeks on a forum trying to figure out why the brakes still feel spongy or why a caliper won't release. If you want your linked brakes to work perfectly every time you need them then don't trust some local guy looking for food or beer, and don't trust your self if you don't feel confident that you know exactly what you're doing. Trust a trained mechanic who's done it many times and is properly insured to service your brake system.
That's one way to do it.
TamworthmarriedmanSince I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Dealers don't "screw you over" , they offer trained, licensed, insured mechanics who know exactly what they are doing, for this they charge the going rate and they know how to do it without wasting time, their work is also warrantied. When you leave the dealer after a brake service you know it's done right, and you don't have to spend weeks on a forum trying to figure out why the brakes still feel spongy or why a caliper won't release. If you want your linked brakes to work perfectly every time you need them then don't trust some local guy looking for food or beer, and don't trust your self if you don't feel confident that you know exactly what you're doing. Trust a trained mechanic who's done it many times and is properly insured to service your brake system.
That's one way to do it.
Not where I live. I have had the local Honda dealers screw me twice, NEVER AGAIN.
As with everything, there are good dealers who run honest competent shops and there are bad dealers who do shoddy work at inflated prices. Ask around and you can find out if you have a good shop in your area. It's unfortunate that the bad guys tarnish the reputation of the good guys just because they are both "dealers". With Auto dealers, Honda surveys customers that go to their shops. If a dealer has consistent poor ratings over a period of time, they will drop them. I don't think they do this with the Powersports line.
I plan to bleed the ABS brakes on my "new to me" 2003 VFR800A using this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70842-bleeding-linked-brakes-wabs-on-6th-generation-the-ultimate-guide/page__hl__%2Bultimate+%2Bguide
Edited June 25, 2012 by vfrI agree with VFR, there are good dealers and bad dealers and it's up to the patron to do his/her due diligence on their reputation. Apart from the forum(s), I would also suggest doing a yelp search, as odd as that sounds. You'll find a common "denominator" between what people on the forums say and what you'll read on yelp. That being said, I would also agree that somethings should be left to a professional. If you are rebuilding your brakes, i.e. caliper/master cylinder tear down and rebuild, then I would not recommend this as a first time attempt! and definitely seek a professional.
Although I do have some mechanical background, it's been a while since I've wrenched anything major for myself. I have bled my brakes and clutch on my Ducati several times though and have not experienced any issues to date. I also don't just jump on and go. I do little "local" test rides away form major traffic and verify everything is good. Take a little longer jaunt and check things again. I know that common sense is an oxymoron, but it really is common sense that somethings you can save money on by doing them yourself and other things you just don't leave to chance. Personally I like the satisfaction knowing that I can take care of little things that may cost more than I have in my wallet at the time. The same goes for things around the house. I've fixed many plumbing issues myself, but for the major ones, I call a plumber. Fortunately for me my brother in-law is a an excellent plumber and gives me major discounts!
Cheers.
I was lazy and just had the brake and clutch fluid done on my '02 last week at a local dealer. Cost was .8 hours + parts which came to a grand total of $86.
Just be sure not to introduce air into the system. Keep the brake reservoirs full while flushing the system.
Once you get air in the linked brakes, it's a beeyotch to get out again.
I made my own brake bleeder using a large pickle jar, a mini wet-dry vac, and some compression fittings. It works a treat and is much easier than the miti-vac I once had. My guess is that the dealer will bend you over and charge you somewhere in the $150 to $200 range. Plenty of good folks around who I'm sure would be willing to help if you ask.
Rollin
vandy91298I was lazy and just had the brake and clutch fluid done on my '02 last week at a local dealer. Cost was .8 hours + parts which came to a grand total of $86.
That is exactly what I wanted to know! I can live with that cost, and it would totally be worth the piece of mind for me. That is about what I would be spending to buy the speed bleeders, pump/vacuum, and fluid I am betting.
Ask the dealer. It's not like this a rare bike, they should be able to give you an estimate first. My local dealer charges me $86 just to look at bikes. Its good to hear that others have it better than I do.
TamworthmarriedmanSince I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Dealers don't "screw you over" , they offer trained, licensed, insured mechanics who know exactly what they are doing, for this they charge the going rate and they know how to do it without wasting time, their work is also warrantied. When you leave the dealer after a brake service you know it's done right, and you don't have to spend weeks on a forum trying to figure out why the brakes still feel spongy or why a caliper won't release. If you want your linked brakes to work perfectly every time you need them then don't trust some local guy looking for food or beer, and don't trust your self if you don't feel confident that you know exactly what you're doing. Trust a trained mechanic who's done it many times and is properly insured to service your brake system.
That's one way to do it.
Which completely explains how the trained dealers screwed up a carb job on a bike of mine. Still don't quite know how they got the float bowl to fit the wrong way...
You can debate this to the cows come home, my view is very simple, if your not mechanically minded or have reservations about performing any task on your motorbike use a trusted mechanic it could just save you allot more money then you will spend using the mechanic or your life. My pet hate is internet forums that sprout the self help mechanical jobs to people that really have no clue it is simply dangerous, I don't perform brain surgery because I have no clue, it is a simple fact of life we all have different skill sets. A good rule to go by is if you have no clue, don't really understand mechanical service manual & have never attempted a particular procedure before then DON'T unless your guided through it by someone who knows what there doing.
As far as link brakes go there one of the most annoying systems to completely bleed & renew fluid, mainly because of all the high points, for example the link piping that runs along frame then drops down under top triple clamp doesn't have a bleed point, If you have ever tried to fill any sealed system with any fluid you know a bleed point at the highest point makes the job simple, the VFR doesn't have that which makes the job a pain. Dealers use a vacuum bleeder & is the way to do a VFR so you don't start throwing things around the garage with frustration. I have performed link brake fluid changes over 20 times on VFR'S with a compressed air vacuum bleeder & it takes me about 15mins. I never had a vacuum bleeder before I purchased a VFR because didn't need one & really the cost of a small compressor & vacuum bleeder isn't great (about the cost of 2 fuild changes at mechanic) & you always have a use for air compressor like doing tyre pressures, cleaning parts, etc.
[image: surgery_for_dummies_353245.jpg]
[image: brainsurgery.jpg]
I ended up finding a shop not too far from me that does Trike conversions. I figured if they can handle Goldwings, they can handle VFR's. I got it done for $100, which is almost half what everyone else quoted me. They guy only thought it would take about an hour, but I was there 2.5! He had to go get the service manual because it was difficult for him. That right there let me know that I made the right choice.
Maybe down the road once I have saved up to get some tools and a lift I will reconsider doing it myself.
TamworthmarriedmanSince I was feeling pretty confident after doing my recent bouts of maintenance, I decided to read the Service Manual and see how bad changing the clutch and brake fluid would be. Well, after reading 15 pages of just the brake bleeding instructions, I have decided it is too involved for one of my limited skills.
How bad would a dealer screw me over? Monetarily that is.
Dealers don't "screw you over" , they offer trained, licensed, insured mechanics who know exactly what they are doing, for this they charge the going rate and they know how to do it without wasting time, their work is also warrantied. When you leave the dealer after a brake service you know it's done right, and you don't have to spend weeks on a forum trying to figure out why the brakes still feel spongy or why a caliper won't release. If you want your linked brakes to work perfectly every time you need them then don't trust some local guy looking for food or beer, and don't trust your self if you don't feel confident that you know exactly what you're doing. Trust a trained mechanic who's done it many times and is properly insured to service your brake system.
That's one way to do it.
Actually factory trained Techs, there may be only one or two per dealer, the rest arent. I've found this throughout industries with dealer Networks, lots of second hand or no training.
True most the learning is through actually doing the job, but that base line Training of the product helps alot. I once worked as a factory tech of a Major manufaturer, You werent even allowed to work on something if you werent officially trained on it, with dealer networks they dont care, they'll put you on anything whether you know the product or not.
Many good points above. I'm in the camp that says it's OK to have a dealer service your bike if you're not up to the job, and can afford to pay someone else to do it for you. That's not to say you shouldn't advance your own mechanical abilities when possible, but sometimes it's better to know one's limitations.
Personally, a big factor is time. I just don't have a lot of spare time on my hands to work on my bike, especially since I'm not that good a mechanic in the first place. Even simple things take longer than average when I do them, but I know they're done right. It's not that I don't enjoy working on my VFR, but it's time-consuming and occasionally aggravating.
There's a local Big 4 dealer I trust where I've had work performed before. Some pricing is higher than I'd like, but overall it's fair enough. I always get estimates before taking the bike in, that way I know what it's supposed to cost - keeps them honest and I know upfront how much it will set me back.
This is all very interesting as I have started researching on flushing the system. I have pads on the way and believe that I can do those by myself, but being a linke system am almost for sure not going to attempt this myself. My fluid doesn't look that bad, but on the F4i I just sold I had a local mechanic flush the lines and put in new pads and WOW, what a difference. I figured I will do the pads myself or maybe with help, but will find someone that I trust either the dealership or a local bike guy and have them do the flush.
My normal guy that did all of the work to my F4i went got married and left the shop, he was pretty awesome and I was sad and surprised he left, but the guy that replaced him did my front tire swap the other night. He said give him 30 min and come back, so I took 35-40 minutes but called him at 30 minutes and it was already done, plus I checked out some of the other things he was working on and he gave me the card from the dealership he left to take over this business. I will definitely talk with him next week to see what and how he feels about flushing the system. I will also mention the vacuum portion to ensure he is familiar with these.
Thanks,
Nathan
Kind of daunting the first time so find someone who will let you watch and explain it to you (if you have time to stick around). Then next time, you do it yourself, which will be a bit time consuming, but after that, it'll be cake.
Good luck!
(BTW, it's a lot easier than it seems in the manual in case you get brave and decide to do it yourself.)
I do have speed bleeders which makes the bleeding a single person job with ease. Recently just installed Braided lines - and had hell of a time to get the fluid in as had to empty the lines completely.
finally used a 50cc Syringe to suck out the air from the caliper. installed the original bleed value (as the speedbleeders have a value and it will not work). connected the syringe via a tube and pulled out the lever. Keep in mind not to take out the tube till you close the valve. once completed i installed the sppedbleeders and completed the bleeding process.
I am confident enough now with myself that I am going to start saving up for the tools to do it myself. Once again I have discovered that you just can't trust "professionals" to do the job right. They have no personal interest in my bike, so it is just a job to them. When I do it, I'll be taking my time and triple checking my work to ensure that it is doe right and my baby is a safe ride.
Where did you get your stainless steel lines from? Spiegler is local to me, so I was thinking about going with them. But at $450+ I wouldn't be above price shopping!
I just finished installing Galfer braided lines on my '99 and it really was nowhere near as bad as I had feared. I bought the lines 3 years ago but kept putting it off because of the complexity of the linked brakes.
The good news is that the front brakes bleed just like a normal set of brakes: 1 bleed point on each caliper. The clutch is really easy and takes about 2 minutes. The rear is the complicated one as you also have to bleed the front brakes at the other bleed point on the caliper, but if you follow the service manual it goes pretty easily. I bought a quart of DOT 4 brake fluid and used about half of it.
I initially pulled the brake fluid through empty lines with a MityVac and then used the SpeedBleeders. I love 'em!! The main problem with a MityVac is air leakage around the bleeder threads. That can make it hard to tell if you're still pulling a bit of air through the lines. So you usually need to treat the threads with some thread sealant. The SpeedBleeders come with sealant already applied. I bought mine from WireMyBike as a set.
I bought my lines from Exotic Sport Bikes but I think they are out of business.
The most critical thing to remember, IMO, is that brake fluid is hell on paint and plastic. I covered what I couldn't remove and all went well. Take your time and you'll get the satisfaction of knowing the job is done right.
Just like yourself, I was hesitant to touch the linked brakes for a long time.
One day, I just printed out appropriate page from the service manual (available here), put it in front of me and went through the steps just as it is described.
I did not need any gizmos, like pumps, speed bleeders or anything else. The only thing you really need is some new brake fluid.
Took me about an hour with a beer break or two and my brakes have new fluid and are rock solid. Clutch too.
Total cost: $5.
Knowing that I did it myself and did it right - Well, you know...
I agree with Rice. I have approached many of the job on my '02 with trepidation, but, once I read the manual a few times and proceed slowly, they have gone well and easily. I had my brakes and clutch flushed and bled the first time, ever as it turns out, 2 years ago. Cost $70-ish at my local Honda dealer. I will do them myself next time.
Edited August 14, 2012 by PACIFICMANI would suggest bleeding the clutch and then the front brakes. These are pretty Easy and depending upon how you get on then attempt the linked system after reading the service manual
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Well, I picked up my bike today from the place that double checked their work. Turns out that the rear reservoir was over filled and the fluid was crystal clear. It never occured to me that it would not be the same color that the front master cylinder was. When I saked why the front clutch and brake fluid was browning so soon he said that it was most likely dirty lines or crud from the lines. But he did reassure me that it was a fresh bottle of fluid.
All in all, my thinking that I am not smart enough or experienced enough to do this cost me an extra $30. I will just chalk this up to a life lesson. Next year when I do this again, I will do it myself so that it is done the way that I want it. All in all, it could have cost me $200 if I went through the dealer, but it only ended up costing me $130. So I think I still came out ahead.
I have a speedbleeder install question for the group: I get the importance of not introducing air to the braking and clutch systems, but how do I install SBs without doing just that?
digitallyhipI have a speedbleeder install question for the group: I get the importance of not introducing air to the braking and clutch systems, but how do I install SBs without doing just that?
If you work fairly quickly the amount of air will be inconsequential. The first squeeze of the lever will get rid of it all. Most of the bleeders are at the high end of the caliper so it really isn't much of a problem.
If you're just changing fluid: install the SpeedBleeders and then loosen about 1/8-1/4 turn, remove all the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir but don't pump the lever/pedal, hook your hose to the SpeedBleeders, clean out any old fluid/gunk from the reservoir, refill with new fluid, now pump the lever/pedal until clean fluid comes out the bleeder. Be sure not to let the level fall too low lest you suck down some air, that will really ruin the job.
It's not really too bad. With the linked brakes there are 7 bleed points.
for me i go to a local non-stealership cycle shop, cost was $80 with parts and labor to do all the brake lines and clutch.
For me the plus of doing it yourself is not so much how cheap it is but the fact that I am 100% sure the job was done right with new quality parts and proper torqueing. Unless you watch whoever is doing the job you have to take their word for it.
marriedmanWhen I saked why the front clutch and brake fluid was browning so soon he said that it was most likely dirty lines or crud from the lines.
-If the guy left crud in the brake lines - he did a half-assed job.
mello dude-If the guy left crud in the brake lines - he did a half-assed job.
Also evidenced by the overfilled reservoir! And to top it off, it sounds like they charged you another $30 to tell you it was ok that they messed up?? WTH!?!
I like doing for myself. However, I am a busy person - I work long hours and have a lot of non-motorcycling responsibilities. This is a question of competing needs of economics and competence and other demands. For me, it works out that I take my bike to a shop (not necessarily a dealer) to pay for service. YMMV.
SEBSPEEDmello dude-If the guy left crud in the brake lines - he did a half-assed job.
Also evidenced by the overfilled reservoir! And to top it off, it sounds like they charged you another $30 to tell you it was ok that they messed up?? WTH!?!
I agree with both of you guys. Seb & mello - this has definitely inspired me to attempt these types of maintenance jobs myself first.
FJ12RyderdigitallyhipI have a speedbleeder install question for the group: I get the importance of not introducing air to the braking and clutch systems, but how do I install SBs without doing just that?
If you work fairly quickly the amount of air will be inconsequential. The first squeeze of the lever will get rid of it all. Most of the bleeders are at the high end of the caliper so it really isn't much of a problem.
If you're just changing fluid: install the SpeedBleeders and then loosen about 1/8-1/4 turn, remove all the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir but don't pump the lever/pedal, hook your hose to the SpeedBleeders, clean out any old fluid/gunk from the reservoir, refill with new fluid, now pump the lever/pedal until clean fluid comes out the bleeder. Be sure not to let the level fall too low lest you suck down some air, that will really ruin the job.
It's not really too bad. With the linked brakes there are 7 bleed points.
Thank you!
mello dudemarriedmanWhen I saked why the front clutch and brake fluid was browning so soon he said that it was most likely dirty lines or crud from the lines.
-If the guy left crud in the brake lines - he did a half-assed job.
I'd have to agree with that. No reason for the fluid to be anything but clear.
digitallyhipFJ12RyderdigitallyhipI have a speedbleeder install question for the group: I get the importance of not introducing air to the braking and clutch systems, but how do I install SBs without doing just that?
If you work fairly quickly the amount of air will be inconsequential. The first squeeze of the lever will get rid of it all. Most of the bleeders are at the high end of the caliper so it really isn't much of a problem.
If you're just changing fluid: install the SpeedBleeders and then loosen about 1/8-1/4 turn, remove all the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir but don't pump the lever/pedal, hook your hose to the SpeedBleeders, clean out any old fluid/gunk from the reservoir, refill with new fluid, now pump the lever/pedal until clean fluid comes out the bleeder. Be sure not to let the level fall too low lest you suck down some air, that will really ruin the job.
It's not really too bad. With the linked brakes there are 7 bleed points.
Thank you!
No problem. Also, don't forget to tighten the SpeedBleeders when you're finished. Yeah, I know that's obvious, but thought I should mention it. :smile:
marriedmanSEBSPEEDmello dude-If the guy left crud in the brake lines - he did a half-assed job.
Also evidenced by the overfilled reservoir! And to top it off, it sounds like they charged you another $30 to tell you it was ok that they messed up?? WTH!?!
I agree with both of you guys. Seb & mello - this has definitely inspired me to attempt these types of maintenance jobs myself first.
I would be happy to give a hand if you give me a few days notice.
Unless you have linked brakes, it's not that complicated to do your own brake bleeding at all, With just a little bit of money (Maybe 12 to 15 bucks, I don't quite remember...), you can buy the simplest one way valve brake bleeding kit, like the one from Motion Pro. Just read up on how it's done and you can do it in an afternoon and be rewarded with best functioning brakes and clutch. It might cost you hlaf or even less than if the dealership does it for you, so you cannot lose....
Beck
95 VFR