'84 Vf750F Project

So I pick up an '84 VF750F that was close, and the right price. The PO says it ran, but had a low speed misfire. I can work with that I reckon.

[image: home01.jpg]

She's a little rough around the edges, but that's what a project is right?

While I wait for a new battery I decided to open the carbs to see what condition they were in. Obligatory before shot:

[image: carbsBefore.jpg]

Anyway, when I opened them up, they were bone dry, and only had a slight film of filtered rust. Pulled the jets and they were fine too, so I pulled the rack apart and gave them a going over with the glass-bead blaster after taping them all up. I'll replace the caps later.

and after, fitted up again:

[image: carbsAfter.jpg]

I gotta say I was expecting all sorts of hassle removing and installing these, but in the end it was all quite painless. I've had more trouble with the CB900 and the airbox issue. I did have to remove them once to re-fit the throttle cables tho. Won't make that mistake again.

So I turn my attention to the fuel pump. I hooked up a temporary petrol supply and found the connector to the pump and ran some wires to the battery. Got my squirt of fuel, so I figure the pump is OK. Reconnect the connector, and turn on the ignition. Now the battery that came with the bike has just about had it, but I thought it would be ok to do some circuit tests. The pump worked when wired directly, so I think there's enough juice. It won't crank the motor, but I'm not ready for that yet anyway. I was expecting the pump to kick in and fill the carbs, but nothing happened, so I'm wondering what triggers the fuel pump?

I think A in this pic is the pump relay?

[image: relays.jpg]

and is B the main relay? They both seem to be getting power with ignition. In fact all the static electrics are working (lights/indicators etc). While I'm in question-asking mode, what is the "tail light" idiot light indicating? It lights initially, the fades out after a second or 2.

[image: idiotLights.jpg]

cheers

ian

love the comstars! the A relay is for the signals and the tail light going on at the start is normal. looking forward to the re-build.

good luck,

Brenden

That already looks very tidy Bike Boy! Looking forward to your restore - the way you made the crabs shine is a promising start! How many Km on her?

I think you will have problems with your brakes Ian, they do not look to be setup for maximum efficiency..

Are you just getting this running or are you going to do a resto?

Has it got the original collector box on? Looks like a set of pipeline mufflers bit I can't see what they connect to.

Also remember DSS does a pretty good deal on caliper rebuild kits but replacement brake pistons are a bit cheaper over here (if you can get a 20% discount from the local dealer).

That does look tidy Ian, congratulations on that find. Have you had it running yet? I would be so impatient to hear it running!

Good luck with the resto/rebuild/tidy up. It really doesn't look like it needs much done to have it on the road again.

Regards, Tony

Looks very promising. You're building quite the old school stable. I'm watching this one.

thanks guys. Yeah, all the calipers are seized. I've got a pair of 1100 units on the front to just wheel her around the shed, so I'll have to rebuild the originals. The pics tend to flatter her I'm afraid. She's a bit worn out. Only 36K kms on the dial but. The plan is to restore her. No collector box Jeff, just the 4-2 headers pipes. Yeah Kel, I'm stuck in the 80's. You should hear my iPod ;-)

I'm still not sure what the tail light warning light is supposed to indicate? And when does the fuel pump activate? Should it go on with ignition?

cheers guys

ian

The fuel pump will turn on with a signal from either oil presure or from the ignition module.This will turn on the relay and energize the fuel pump. Just turning on the key will not do it.

Don't forget to pull the cam covers and inspect the the cams for worn lobes. This could be contributing to the low end misfire.(hopefully not!)

Ian the tail light indicator is to inform you if your tail light has failed. It lights at power on like the oil pressure light & does a continuity test, thus lighting the dash warning light, to prove the dash light works. Then it goes out. If the tail light fails whilst riding, the dash light will come on to warn you ! Great at night to stop you getting rammed. Most bikes has dual tail/stop lights now so no need for a single bulb check system !

CBVFRbikeboy

thanks guys. Yeah, all the calipers are seized. I've got a pair of 1100 units on the front to just wheel her around the shed, so I'll have to rebuild the originals. The pics tend to flatter her I'm afraid. She's a bit worn out. Only 36K kms on the dial but. The plan is to restore her. No collector box Jeff, just the 4-2 headers pipes. Yeah Kel, I'm stuck in the 80's. You should hear my iPod ;-)

I'm still not sure what the tail light warning light is supposed to indicate? And when does the fuel pump activate? Should it go on with ignition?

cheers guys

ian

HA...I here ya, my 8yo son hums more Devo, Kraftwerk, and INXS than anything else.

I'm thinking I should install an in-line fuel filter to this thing. Is there anything I need to consider when fitting one on a bike with a fuel pump?

cheers

ian

Most bikes fuel taps have a built in filter, but you should install a good quality in-line filter able to stop particles down to 0.0015" or 40 microns.

I like to use a glass housing ones you can take apart for cleaning, when you see they are dirty. You can used a cheap universal ones but make sure you change them often - at least once every two years, depends on how clean is the fuel in your area and the condition of your fuel tank.

I usually put two filters on a bikes with fuel pump. One before, and one after the pump (it might sound a little bit to extreme, but this is something I was taught in college by my teacher with 40 years of experience in bike racing). I do find some dirt in the second one quite often. If you want to use just one, fit it before fuel pump.

Thanks ADHD. I wasn't sure if the inline filters would coupe with the pressure from a fuel pump, because all the others I have are just gravity-fed. Good idea on the before and after too. I haven't been able to open my tank yet, but it sounds like there's some flaking rust swishing around. Pulled the fuel sender, and it had a bit of rust on the arm. I'll clean it out eventually, but I'll still fit the filters.

cheers

ian

An in-line filter will be fine on a carbed bike. The pump isn't putting much pressure out to worry about anything.

the pumps on the old VF's are extremely low pressure.

put the filter on the discharge side of the pump, before the carbs.

The bike should have always had one, did someone remove it during it's life??

OEM fuel filter should have been attached to your pump at the fuel pump mounting plate near the bottom. Unless it's been removed!

Veefer800Canuck

the pumps on the old VF's are extremely low pressure.

put the filter on the discharge side of the pump, before the carbs.

The bike should have always had one, did someone remove it during it's life??

hoganth

OEM fuel filter should have been attached to your pump at the fuel pump mounting plate near the bottom. Unless it's been removed!

there may well be one fitted at the pump, I just haven't got down that far yet. Good info thanks guys

ian

CBVFRbikeboy

Veefer800Canuck

the pumps on the old VF's are extremely low pressure.

put the filter on the discharge side of the pump, before the carbs.

The bike should have always had one, did someone remove it during it's life??

hoganth

>OEM fuel filter should have been attached to your pump at the fuel pump mounting plate near the bottom. Unless it's been removed!

there may well be one fitted at the pump, I just haven't got down that far yet. Good info thanks guys

ian

IIRC, it may be fitted with a protective cover, it's been a million years since I owned that bike.......

Yes, it is at the "Pump" very short hose shaped like a horse shoe. I would put up a picture for you but don't have one handy.

Look at a online parts locator and you will see where it is.

Good Luck!

Lesson #1. Test any replacement parts before refurbishing them:

[image: rearCaliper.jpg]

I used a spare pair of cb1100 calipers on the front while I attack the VF's, so I just assumed the rear would work as well. Not so. There is a clearance issue with the mounting points and they don't bolt up.

On another note, I got her running :-) I have an audio file on my phone, just need to figure out how to download it :-(

So having established it as a runner, its time to start dismantling. An hour or 2 later and you get to this stage:

[image: pieces.jpg]

and of course every project motor needs a stand while you work on it:

[image: stand.jpg]

so onwards and upwards ;-)

cheers

ian

nice. I say again, love those wheels.

we didnt get them here.

i wish i had one of these, this was a stock euro colour:

[image: VF750F%2085%20Origine%20noir%20et%20roug]

So I figure not everything needs to be powdercoated. These headlight frames are a good candidate for the gloss black rattle can I reckon. They're not exposed to the elements and I doubt they'd even get wet in the rain?

[image: headlightFrame.jpg]

Gee I really like these gold boomerangs but bugger me the hubs are a pain to clean and repaint!

[image: frontBoomie.jpg]

Is that new?

thx113

Is that new?

na mate, I wish. I don't have a good 'before' pic, but the hub and disks were pretty manky. Fortunately the anodised parts came up pretty well with some autosol. Just a couple of the usual war wounds. Came up pretty well overall. Doing the rear now, and for the first time ever the 'double-nut' technique work for me to remove the drive sprocket studs Only needed to penetrine one of them. They're sitting in the electorplating bath now getting a new coat of zinc :wink:

The rear disk has more rust on it than the front, but it seems to come off with one of those synthetic paint remover disks. I'll get some before and afters if I remember :unsure:

cheers

ian

mmmm. Fresh powder coating :woohoo:

[image: freshPowder.jpg]

Tasty!!!!!!! :cool:

Looks awesome.

What is the weight of that frame compared to the big honking one on the 6th gens?

What he said ^^^^^ Be great if you could add some weights for the major assemblies, just so we can compare with todays "more modern" components ! Looking good. Have you checked the cams yet ?

CBVFRbikeboy

mmmm. Fresh powder coating

Well done!

Mohawk

Have you checked the cams yet ?

I think they're OK, but happy to have a second opinion?

[image: cam.jpg]

Did the rear wheel today. Spent an hour or 2 masking to paint the hub. Didn't come up as well as the front, but it'll do me.

[image: rearWheel.jpg]

Looking at your photo of the cams it is an early model as the later had an oil feed hole in the rear of the lobes.

What I remember is that the ones without the hole in the rear of the lobes had bleed holes in the plugs in each end of the cams.

I'd pull the cams and measure the lobe height. Only way to determine how much wear has occurred.

I built a Superbike based on one of these in the early 80's and had to mod the oil feeds to the top end to keep the pressure up.

Cheers

Phil

highsidenz

Looking at your photo of the cams it is an early model as the later had an oil feed hole in the rear of the lobes.

What I remember is that the ones without the hole in the rear of the lobes had bleed holes in the plugs in each end of the cams.

I'd pull the cams and measure the lobe height. Only way to determine how much wear has occurred.

I built a Superbike based on one of these in the early 80's and had to mod the oil feeds to the top end to keep the pressure up.

Cheers

Phil

thanks Phil. Any advice on the oil feed mods you mention? Is it an involved process?

cheers

ian

there's no visible scoring or pitting/flaking on that cam lobe, so if they all look that way, you're probably good I'm guessing.

when mine failed, they were visibly pitting/flaking. Didn't take a rocket surgeon to figure it out.

Veefer800Canuck

there's no visible scoring or pitting/flaking on that cam lobe, so if they all look that way, you're probably good I'm guessing.

when mine failed, they were visibly pitting/flaking. Didn't take a rocket surgeon to figure it out.

+1

For reference lack of proper hardening on the followers is the main culprit - the damaged follower acts like a grinder wearing down the cam lobe.

One simple preventative step is to make sure you properly warm up the engine before riding. This will help prolong the life of the top end.

Project is looking great! Look forward to seeing the finished bike.

Nothing wrong with those cam lobes! I think it would be safe to assume that if they are in that condition after 25+ years (if they are original), then you don't have a problem.

ajcmbrown

Nothing wrong with those cam lobes! I think it would be safe to assume that if they are in that condition after 25+ years (if they are original), then you don't have a problem.

Cool. Thanks for that. The bike only has just under 40K on the dial, and I'm pretty sure that's accurate given the condition of the brake disks and clutch plates. That's about half of what similar aged bikes do around here, so I'd say they are originals.

cheers

ian

Can the cam/valve/head covers be removed with the motor in the frame?

[image: motor.jpg]

I'm having a spare set polished, but don't want it to hold me up when I re-install the motor. I realise there are implications for setting valve clearances if the motor has to be out, so I'm hoping they'll come off in-frame.

cheers

ian

Yeah they will come off in frame, just have some band aids, book of cuss words, lots of patience and a cold six pack for afterwards.

Just kidding, you will find that if you remove the coil packs, coolant recovery bottle, fuel line and on my bike at least I had to disconnect the wiring loom on the battery side frame rail.

It is a bitch the first time, after that not so bad.

BTW, that engine looks awesome! It's a credit to you that it came up so well.

Regards and good luck, Tony

ajcmbrown

Yeah they will come off in frame, just have some band aids, book of cuss words, lots of patience and a cold six pack for afterwards.

Thanks Tony, that's what I was afraid of. I hope they hurry them up so I don't have to do it that way :unsure:

cheers

ian

Don't be too put off by my description Ian, just to be clear, mine is a VF1000FF so probably different, but I imagine very similar. Honda are not stupid enough to build a bike that has to have the engine out to adjust valve clearances, they just didn't make it as easy as they could have in my case, but I now have no trouble doing mine. Once you have done it a couple of times it becomes easier. I would just say have your polishing gear ready for after they are fitted since you may mark the covers fitting them, and it is only the rear cover (in my case) that can be difficult the first time.

ajcmbrown

Don't be too put off by my description Ian, just to be clear, mine is a VF1000FF so probably different, but I imagine very similar. Honda are not stupid enough to build a bike that has to have the engine out to adjust valve clearances, they just didn't make it as easy as they could have in my case, but I now have no trouble doing mine. Once you have done it a couple of times it becomes easier. I would just say have your polishing gear ready for after they are fitted since you may mark the covers fitting them, and it is only the rear cover (in my case) that can be difficult the first time.

No worries Tony. I'm used to wrangling the cb900/1100 valve covers of in situ without too much drama these days. I might wrap them in painter's tape to protect them a bit while I find the best route in :wink:

I think I read here somewhere that a certain model requires the cams to be removed in order to set the clearance? Now *that* seems like a silly engineering scenario.

Update: Found the post: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73807-valve-adjustment-would-you/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bclearance, post #3 mentions it. A latter model bike however.

I may have misinterpreted the post. It seems they're speaking about the VTEC components, of which I have no experience: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/19819-vtec-clearance-check-results/#entry226330, post #9

cheers

ian

Don't see how you can set valve clearances with the cams out? The clearance is the difference between either the cam and rockers, or rocker and valve, but the cam needs to be fitted either way.

ajcmbrown

Don't see how you can set valve clearances with the cams out? The clearance is the difference between either the cam and rockers, or rocker and valve, but the cam needs to be fitted either way.

My thoughts exactly. It was a bucket/shim arrangement, but still seems odd. I'll see if I can find the topic.

ian

Coming a long.

If it's bucket/shim arrangement that you read about, you may have to measure the clearance, then remove the cams to replace the shims, before replacing the cams and measuring again.

Yeah, the inside of the tank was pretty manky. I had to take it in to a locksmith because none of the keys I have would open it. Wasn't all that impressed when I got to look inside.

On the other hand, it gave me an opportunity to try the electroysis method to remove all the rust.

[image: electrolysis01.jpg]

Something must be working because its bubbling away quite nicely.

Also had a chance to paint the fork lowers with satin black epoxy while I wait for my fork seals and the rubbers for the anti-dive mechanism.

[image: lowers.jpg]

Hi Ian, im new to VFRD and came across this post,

I have a very nice set of the cams with the oil hole as mentioned by Phil, i am in sydney and you are more than welcome to them for a good price if your ones dont turn out.

I can post a pic if you are interested.

rgds

Dan

CBVFRbikeboy

Yeah, the inside of the tank was pretty manky. I had to take it in to a locksmith because none of the keys I have would open it. Wasn't all that impressed when I got to look inside.

On the other hand, it gave me an opportunity to try the electroysis method to remove all the rust.

[image: electrolysis01.jpg]

Something must be working because its bubbling away quite nicely.

how does this work? Never heard of this method for rust removal before.

blackaneseman

how does this work? Never heard of this method for rust removal before.

It's quite a widespread technique for de-rusting tanks. Basically you fill the tank with a solution of water and sodium carbonate (washing soda), make yourself an anode of mild steel and place it in the tank making sure it doesn't contact any metal, connect a battery charger positive lead to the anode, and the negative lead to the tank's metal. The theory is that all the rusty bits will be attracted to the anode, leaving the good metal untouched. It's a slow process, taking days rather than hours, but I have the time so I thought I'd give it a go.

This is the tutorial I followed: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-From-A-Motorcycle-Gas-Ta/

cheers

ian

a few more days of this and I'll pour out the solution and see how successful it was.

[image: anode.jpg]

I can hardly wait for you to select a color scheme...love those wheels by the way but I am biased.

[image: Lets Go!_edited.jpg]

[image: Freedom and Duty]

CornerCarver

I can hardly wait for you to select a color scheme...love those wheels by the way but I am biased.

Thanks. Nice pics. She'll be done in the stock scheme, as in the pic on the first page. I've only been able to source US-spec decals, so they'll have to do. Same basic layout, but labeled Interceptor. I can live with that.

cheers

ian

There is a guy who is familiar with our forum who does professional decals. I think he is at CBR decals dot com but he can do the VF750F decal as well...SebSpeed knows how to reach him if that is the wrong web addy.

CornerCarver

There is a guy who is familiar with our forum who does professional decals. I think he is at CBR decals dot com but he can do the VF750F decal as well...SebSpeed knows how to reach him if that is the wrong web addy.

Are you thinking of Mark at CBDecals? He's my go-to guy for all my decals, and top quality stuff, but unfortunately he hasn't got the aussie model in stock. I did ask him about modifing the US version (practically the same) but he said they're so backed-up he won't have a chance to do any custom work for ages.

[image: 84vf700f-full-kit-layout-BLUE-BIKE-500w.]

cheers

ian

yeah, that's the guy.

want me to see if I can get them from a former co-worker who is back in Japan?

CornerCarver

yeah, that's the guy.

want me to see if I can get them from a former co-worker who is back in Japan?

Thanks for the offer. Are you talking OEM? I'm not sure I could afford the Honda prices :-( I think the application process is more complicated as well? They're not printed on vinyl like the aftermarket stuff, which is a doddle to apply.

cheers

ian

I think the OEM pricing may be less than many think...I am not sure of the process for application but it may be more complicated than simple vinyl.

Get in touch with Kevin Sigler aka Throttlepimp here on the forum. His quality is better than CBDecals, and his prices are much better.

SEBSPEED

Get in touch with Kevin Sigler aka Throttlepimp here on the forum. His quality is better than CBDecals, and his prices are much better.

thanks seb. Have PM'd him, so fingers crossed :fing02:

Can you slow down Ian? You are starting to really embarrass me with my lack of progress on my R's. Only just liberated the motor from the 85 model 2 days ago.

thx113

Can you slow down Ian? You are starting to really embarrass me with my lack of progress on my R's. Only just liberated the motor from the 85 model 2 days ago.

No sweat Jeff. I'm not up to the paint yet, just a bit of pre-planning because I've been held up by decals in the past. Rest assured everything is still in bits ;-)

[image: assembly01.jpg]

total extent of re-assembly

now get out there and do something :-)

ian

CBVFRbikeboy

thx113

Can you slow down Ian? You are starting to really embarrass me with my lack of progress on my R's. Only just liberated the motor from the 85 model 2 days ago.

No sweat Jeff. I'm not up to the paint yet, just a bit of pre-planning because I've been held up by decals in the past. Rest assured everything is still in bits ;-)

[image: assembly01.jpg]

total extent of re-assembly

now get out there and do something :-)

ian

That looks about the same state my 1100F resto has been in for 3 years. Time is the enemy of hubands. Every time I think would be a good time to spend a few hours in the shed, my wife finds many other jobs for me.

Sorry Mr. Webster. My son came over today, and we were looking for things to do :wink:

[image: motorIn.jpg]

as you can see, things are getting tight in the shed :unsure:

looks amazing! I cant wait to see the end result. my bike is slowly coming together as well.

What did you use to clean the engine?

Gold com cast, might be a Euro spec. I had an 83 that I bought in West Germany. Good luck, great motorcycle. It's was my first.

We have a roller :blush:

[image: roller.jpg]

... then I realised I should have fitted the chain-slider before installing the swing arm :rolleyes:

brand new 2013 VF750!!!

nedhills

looks amazing! I cant wait to see the end result. my bike is slowly coming together as well.

What did you use to clean the engine?

Thanks ;-)

Just good old-fashioned elbow grease, then scotchbrite pads for a key for the new paint. Not my favourite job, but one of the most rewarding.

cheers

ian

Looking great! Well done!

CBVFRbikeboy

We have a roller :blush:

[image: roller.jpg]

... then I realised I should have fitted the chain-slider before installing the swing arm :rolleyes:

Ha ha ha , I did exactly the same thing on the 1000RE. Really embarrassing to be sitting there admiring the rebuilt rear end and realise there is one small problem.

thx113

Ha ha ha , I did exactly the same thing on the 1000RE. Really embarrassing to be sitting there admiring the rebuilt rear end and realise there is one small problem.

I hate it when that happens :wacko:

Looks very nice Ian. I hope mine looks half as good when I'm done with it.

What colour scheme are you going with?

On the topic of the other bike behind - Avon make radials to fit, both front and rear.

thx113

Looks very nice Ian. I hope mine looks half as good when I'm done with it.

What colour scheme are you going with?

Thanks Jeff. I have no doubt your projects will be at least as good a mine, if not better. I'll be doing the stock red white and blue. Always thought they look best in that scheme.

Good to know about the Avons too. Are you running them? I'll have to keep them in mind.

cheers mate

ian

Love the gold wheels.

I have a set of avon radials for my 85 resto, the 84 R came with new sport demons on (pretty much the only thing which wasn't f***ked on the bike).

Have a spare tank to help position those decals, and the sidecovers are straightforward, but had to make a stencil to help me align the tail piece stripe

[image: stencil.jpg]

now all I have to do is match the blue paint. Having the PPG code didn't work out in the end. Seemed to be the only Honda blue my paint guys didn't have on computer :-(

cheers

ian

Would photos of a NOS tailpiece be any help?

thx113

Would photos of a NOS tailpiece be any help?

Not as much as the tailpiece itself :wink:

I think I got it sorted Jeff. The piece I have is in good nick, just faded on the top surface. It seems to have worked well enough to be an accurate positioning guide.

Your shed must look like the back room of a Honda spare parts counter I reckon.

cheers

ian

good idea with the stencil! I didn't do that and had to do it by eye. if there ever is a next time for me I'll definitively use that.

Well, I'm just about all out of patience. Is there a trick to re-fitting an exhaust system on these motors? At the moment I have the front headers loosely fitted, and I'm trying to jack the muffler up to locate the rear two. I have the gaskets fitted to the rear headers, so they could just slide into the coupling, which I've opened out from its clamped state. No matter how much I wiggle them around, they don't want to slip in. This is an aftermarket system, but was fitted to the bike before I tore it down, so I know it fits.

Any advice appreciated.

thanks

ian

may be different, but on my 500 I had to use a little more force than usual (rubber mallet), but they finally sorta snapped into place.

timmythecop

a little more force than usual (rubber mallet)

That would be a last resort I guess. The V4 is relatively new to me, and I'm a bit reluctant to go the bash, fearing there's something I'm missing.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Damn it! trying to chase a few powdercoated threads and broke my first ever tap. Time to bust out all those internet handy hints on how to get the sucker out :wacko:

[image: tap.jpg]

ian

Am I right in thinking this system will fit my VF750F? Still struggling with the different model names :wacko:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151022471369?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[image: 501-2201.jpg]

cheers

ian

Dam broke tap that's tough one. Still looks good !

Had to use an Isolator coat on the lower cowl because due to its flexibility (I guess) it's painted with a different type of paint that reacted badly with my Acrylic primer. I've run across this before primarily with front mudguards made from a similar plastic, and you have to remove all traces of the old paint before priming. This piece was a more complicated molding and I wasn't sure I could get it all, so an Isolator primer was recommended by my paint guy. He reckons the original finish was most likely enamel, and incompatible with the acrylic.

[image: isolatorCoat.jpg]

Man there's a lot of parts to paint on these things. And I haven't included the tank!

[image: primer.jpg]

Should get to shoot the base coat tomorrow. :wink:

cheers

ian

Looking good there! Nothing makes a bike like fresh paint :-) :cool:

Fresh paint is gooooood . . . . .

thx113

CBVFRbikeboy

thx113

Can you slow down Ian? You are starting to really embarrass me with my lack of progress on my R's. Only just liberated the motor from the 85 model 2 days ago.

No sweat Jeff. I'm not up to the paint yet, just a bit of pre-planning because I've been held up by decals in the past. Rest assured everything is still in bits ;-)

[image: assembly01.jpg]

total extent of re-assembly

now get out there and do something :-)

ian

That looks about the same state my 1100F resto has been in for 3 years. Time is the enemy of hubands. Every time I think would be a good time to spend a few hours in the shed, my wife finds many other jobs for me.

Maybe this will work for you...when you think it might be a good time to spin some spanners on the VF...ask the wife for a sexual favor, mine just kicks me out to the garage when I try that... :tour:

CBVFRbikeboy

Am I right in thinking this system will fit my VF750F? Still struggling with the different model names :wacko:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151022471369?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[image: 501-2201.jpg]

cheers

ian

I don't think that exhaust will work out of the box for the 750F.

IIRC the engine in the chain driven F models was rotated around the crank shaft to better balance the COG and provide additional clearance for the steeper fork angles required for a sport bike.

It may be close enough to modify though...

For the broken tap, the first thing you should try is a small punch and hammer. Taps are hard and therefore brittle - you should be able to shatter it and pull the pieces with a magnet.

If that fails, grinding stones on a Dremel are the next best thing. Make sure you have all of the pieces out before you start a new tap.

Looking forward to your paint.

Before I get anything powdercoated, I thread in some cheap hardware store metric bolts and then after the powdercoating is done, remove the cheapie bolts and replace with the factory hardware.

That way, no residue in the threads.

SEBSPEED

For the broken tap, the first thing you should try is a small punch and hammer. Taps are hard and therefore brittle - you should be able to shatter it and pull the pieces with a magnet.

Thanks Seb, that's what I ended up doing. Smashed that little sucker to smithereens :biggrin:

SEBSPEED

Looking forward to your paint.

Base coat is on. I didn't take any pics, because it looks just the same as the white primer :wink:

Should get the white pearl on tomorrow. Which will probably also look just like the white primer in pics. Decals on after that, then masking for the blue.

cheers

ian

Got a chance to apply the red stripe decals to all the panels:

[image: tankDecal.jpg]

[image: redDecals.jpg]

Then it was on to masking off the white areas

[image: tankMasked.jpg]

Then finally the blue paint:

[image: tankBlue.jpg]

Got the wings to put on the tank later, then some clear coats when this has had a chance to cure.

I like painting :biggrin:

I like where this is headed.

In the meantime - unmasked:

[image: sidecovers.jpg]

I like painting :biggrin:

Sorry for taking so long getting back to you re the cam mods.

Basically what I did, if I remember correctly, was measured the bleed hole in the plugs in the ends of the cams and then drilled a hole directly in the back of the lobes at about the same diameter.

Make sure that you chamfer the edge of the hole well.

Then I made some aluminium plugs that I could press fit in to the bores in the ends of the cams, after I removed the welsh plugs from each end.

Also make sure that you clean all the drillings out of the oil ways before pressing in the plugs.

As I mentioned in the earlier post, measure the lobe height as a bike of that age, and an early one at that, I would expect to have worn.

Cheers

Phil

I would use it mate, it will never rust.

Oh dear. So... I put the speedo cable bracket in the plating solution the other day. Then forgot about it  :wacko:

The 40 minute process continued on unmonitored for about 24 hours.

[image: speedoCable.jpg]

You can get an idea of how thick the coating is by looking at the copper wire  :sleep:

The good news I guess is I now have a spare anode.

ian

I would use it mate, it will never rust.

I'll have to drill the mounting hole out again, 'coz a 6mm bolt ain't getting through there now  :blush:

You are really starting to annoy me with this sort of work ethic Ian.

I have not touched a bike for 4 weeks or so. The best I managed was to pull out my body work and sort out what parts were going on which bike.

Every time I go to shed to try to do something the dear wife immediately finds a job for me.

Also meant to ask about  the left side, rear upper engine mount bolt/nut arrangement on the 1000R. On mine the nut is a chrome cap nut arrangement but the underside of the "hat" does not seat against the frame. Is yours the same? I will grab a photo to id the correct mount for you.

You are really starting to annoy me with this sort of work ethic Ian.
 
I have not touched a bike for 4 weeks or so. The best I managed was to pull out my body work and sort out what parts were going on which bike.

Ha ha. Here's me feeling guilty about taking 2 weeks off to do the Central Australian thing. I think if I had as many nice parts as you I'd just sit and stare at 'em too  :happy:  
 

Every time I go to shed to try to do something the dear wife immediately finds a job for me.
 
Also meant to ask about  the left side, rear upper engine mount bolt/nut arrangement on the 1000R. On mine the nut is a chrome cap nut arrangement but the underside of the "hat" does not seat against the frame. Is yours the same? I will grab a photo to id the correct mount for you.

Yeah, I'll need a pic I think. I'm a bit dyslexic sometimes  :wacko:

I think I found it Jeff? Is this the one you're after?
 
Seems like mine has a gap as well. Same on the 750.

Attached Images

• [image: engineMount.jpg]

That's the one Ian. Looks like it is ok as I pulled the nut off and could see it clearly seated in the bottom of the well in the frame.

Thanks for looking it up for me.

Took the wheels into have some Sports Demon tyres fitted. Lots of tread left on the BT45s, but the sidewalls are cracked all over the place.

[image: sidewall.jpg]

Was all set to get a pair of the Avons Jeff, then realised the rear on this thing is an 18 and not 17 like the R :mellow:

I do have a spare 17" off the 1100, but that's only a 2.75. I also have a spare set of R wheels, but I think I'd have trouble with the rear brake set-up. The 1000F 3.5" boomerang would probably bolt straight on, but it's black of course :mellow:

Having more stuff lying around only confuses me more :wacko:

Just for a bit of fun...

[image: vf750r.jpg]

Well, I reckon she's done [image: clear.png] Only thing left to do is peel the protective plastic of the new screen, and wait for my chain riveting tool to turn up so I can tick that off the list.

[image: rightSide.jpg]

[image: rightRear.jpg]

[image: vf750-vf1000r.jpg]

next step: off to get an inspection and club reg. whoo hoo!

cheers

ian

Man that's awesome looking .....

Looks fantastic Ian! Thanks for sharing the pics along the way. Simply beautiful! :beer:

Absolutely fabulous! Love the comstar wheels!

Had an issue with the fans not kicking in when they should. I know they worked before, so the fix should be simple. Turns out the connection at thermo switch on the lower radiator wasn't making proper contact with the wires, so a little finessing had that sorted. Let her idle for ages with no dramas.The first mark on the tape is when the fans fire up. The second was what it reached before I found the problem :unsure:

{media]

Are those brake lines giving you any interference problems?

No, but I'm not happy with them. They were custom made, but the left hand one is too long and bunches up at the bars. I will replace them when I can find a seller that makes them for this model. Any suggestions Kel?

cheers

ian

Lots of folks that make custom brake lines. They don't have to be model specific.

CBVFRbikeboy

No, but I'm not happy with them. They were custom made, but the left hand one is too long and bunches up at the bars. I will replace them when I can find a seller that makes them for this model. Any suggestions Kel?

cheers

ian

I would make my own. Earls makes a nice DIY kit. Here's the rear line I made using some Earl's stuff. Teflon core, stainless braid with a smoked housing. Couple of banjos and some new crush washers and done. All compression fittings so no special crimping needed.

[image: DSC03443.JPG?psid=1]

Veefer800Canuck

Lots of folks that make custom brake lines. They don't have to be model specific.

The annoying thing is that these were custom made. I think I botched the measurements. I have a set of Venhills on the one of the CBs, and they have adjustable banjos, which helps a little with alignment and routing, but I couldn't retrace my steps to find where I got them.

I will replace them eventually. Might look in to that Earl's stuff. Thanks guys.

I have the English place for the venhill lines. Just a word of warning on home made lines - in Aus I think they equal instant red sticker as there is no testing or certification which high pressure brake lines need to be compliant.

Shoot me an email and I will send the venhill suppier details.

I also have a spare set of braided VF1000R front lines (3 line kit) from goodyear but they may be too short.

I was making my own lines and had good luck with them.

I still make some lines when I need to, but I have found that Core Moto makes really nice custom lines at a very good price. $138 for a 3-line kit built to my specs. Awesome color variety!

CBVFRbikeboy

Veefer800Canuck

Lots of folks that make custom brake lines. They don't have to be model specific.

The annoying thing is that these were custom made. I think I botched the measurements. I have a set of Venhills on the one of the CBs, and they have adjustable banjos, which helps a little with alignment and routing, but I couldn't retrace my steps to find where I got them.

I will replace them eventually. Might look in to that Earl's stuff. Thanks guys.

They could easily be cut and shortened, and one new end crimped on.

SEBSPEED

I was making my own lines and had good luck with them.

I still make some lines when I need to, but I have found that Core Moto makes really nice custom lines at a very good price. $138 for a 3-line kit built to my specs. Awesome color variety!

Forgot to mention, my last custom order from them was placed at 1:30pm on July 2, 2013... July 4th is obviously a holiday... I received the lines on July 5th!!

http://www.coremoto.com/Honda_CBR_sportbike_brake_lines_s/507.htm

Call or email for details on custom orders.

Thanks guys.Seems like there's lots of options out there. I just happened to pick a dud one this time around :unsure:

As Jeff has mentioned, I think there might be issues here with the home-spun solutions, but I'd be confident with a kit installation, and I now have some link chasing to follow up on.

cheers

ian

Well, here we are. All legal, and on club plates. First day @ work :blush:

[image: vf750f%20@%20work.jpg]

That looks fantastic! I'm diggin' the exhaust and wheel color. Nice job.

Looks indistinguishable from new. Excellent job man. I'm jealous.

If you ever want to lose those ugly wheels I'm sure I could dig up some of the normal looking ones. :goofy:

Nice job. It does look brand new.

Very Very Nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good job!

Bravo...extremely sharp restoration. Well done!