How Screwed Am I, In Dollars?
We're gonna need more info than that, the spacer thingie shouldn't make a huge difference really. The "snap" sound you heared was likely the piston setteling back into place in the slave cylinder. Clutches are a .............challenge to bleed sometimes, how did you bleed it?
Depends-- how many women/lawyers were involved!!!!!!
However, if you bled the cluch because you removed the sprocket cover and the clutch stopped working, I think you have more than one issue, cuase removing the cover doesnt mess with the clutch fluid containment.
You cant bleed the clutch like the brakes,
snip
Sure you can, exactly same procedure, works perfectly.
You cant bleed the clutch like the brakes,
snip
Sure you can, exactly same procedure, works perfectly.
This has always worked for me.
did you forget to install the push rod??
as for bleeding the line.. its so damned easy a cave man can do it.
take a clear tube. and place on slave nipple. it should be snug or tight..
angle bars so the clutch MC is level.. take the top off...
loosen nipple at the slave.. sit back and have a beer.. GRAVITY will do its job..
no squeezen , no bitchen , no yellin , no screaming , no fuzz, no muss.
look as fluid enters tube.. any bubble? or just fluid? add new fluid to the mc as it gets low.
tighten nipple when you feel enough fluid has gone through.. normally about 1/4 cup for me..
tighten top on Mc.. place in 1st gear and give a squeeze.. it will not be anywhere close to the firm ness of a brake.. does the bike roll? presto you done.
After a clutch slave cylinder clean-up recently I couldn't shift the air in the line until I started to give some fairly severe manipulations on the rubber line near the master cylinder. Worked the hose backwards and forwards, up and down - whatever produced results. It worked every time until I got most of the air moving and then it bled like brakes do. My theory is that the air sticks to the insides of the line !! I was pretty desperate until I happened onto this method.
After a clutch slave cylinder clean-up recently I couldn't shift the air in the line until I started to give some fairly severe manipulations on the rubber line near the master cylinder. Worked the hose backwards and forwards, up and down - whatever produced results. It worked every time until I got most of the air moving and then it bled like brakes do. My theory is that the air sticks to the insides of the line !! I was pretty desperate until I happened onto this method.
thats where the beer comes in.. it takes a little while for the stuff to start to flow. :beer:
if i am in a rush.. i take the slave off the bike.. and squeeze until the piston is almost all the way out . but held firm by a C clamp.. then i start the bleed.. . then i place a the top on with a rag wrapped around it . and tighten the C clamp.. it forces all the fluid UP into the MC..
this can be nasty messy if you do it to fast with to much fluid in the MC ..
another trick.. homemade reverse bleed with a syringe and tube and zipp ties. :blush:
gll429, on 29 Mar 2013 - 05:03, said:
as for bleeding the line.. its so damned easy a cave man can do it.
:1: to what the caveman wrote :biggrin:
swas, on 29 Mar 2013 - 05:13, said:
My theory is that the air sticks to the insides of the line !!
Air doesn't stick to the hoses, it is the surface tension of the fluid that keeps the air bubbles from moving upwards. That's why people often get good results by keeping the system pressurised over some time (by putting a strap around the brake or clutch lever). The compressed air bubbles are a lot smaller and much quicker move upwards towards the master cylinder. The air bubbles will enter the master cylinder reservoir as soon as you remove the strap. To pressurise the clutch hoses you need to put a c-clamp on the clutch slave.
So.. you are agreeing with me that air gets trapped..:1: to what the caveman wrote :biggrin:gll429, on 29 Mar 2013 - 05:03, said:
as for bleeding the line.. its so damned easy a cave man can do it.Air doesn't stick to the hoses, it is the surface tension of the fluid that keeps the air bubbles from moving upwards. That's why people often get good results by keeping the system pressurised over some time (by putting a strap around the brake or clutch lever). The compressed air bubbles are a lot smaller and much quicker move upwards towards the master cylinder. The air bubbles will enter the master cylinder reservoir as soon as you remove the strap. To pressurise the clutch hoses you need to put a c-clamp on the clutch slave.swas, on 29 Mar 2013 - 05:13, said:
My theory is that the air sticks to the insides of the line !!
I never said WHAT the air sticks to.. and no one cares..
They just want the air OUT.
as hughes said.." no one wants drill bits..they want holes "
My point.. WHY MAKE WORK FOR YOUSELF????
Crackem open and lunch.. that's what I do every time a brake job comes into the shop.
I used to do as you said.. keeping pressure and all that.. I like my way bettter :P
Uhhm, yes. And as you can see it is not you who I quoted.So.. you are agreeing with me that air gets trapped..
I never said WHAT the air sticks to.. and no one cares..
Sorry.. at work.. tiny phone screen dealing with a customer who is a girlfriend..UhSo.. you are agreeing with me that air gets trapped..I never said WHAT the air sticks to.. and no one cares..
hm, yes. And as you can see it is not you who I quoted.
Feeling like banging my head against the wall........