Howdy all,
I know that you've been down the electronics path with this year/model and I've read the many informative posts.
(http://www.vfrdiscus...ent-parts-list/)
I have a new Motobatt battery (13 V) and a new ElectroSport R/R (13.5V at idle and 14.1 at RPM). The stator works when cool (20 VAC at idle and 60 VAC at RPM), but fails as soon as the bike warms up (11.3 VAC at idle and 12.7 VAC at RPM) about 40 minutes into a ride.
My questions are simple:
1) Will I need to order anything in addition to the stator, such as the engine cover gasket (I think yes)?
2) Will I need any special tools (Some place I look say yes, others say no)?
3) Most importantly, which stator should I order (and do I have the correct p/ns and cheapest retailers)?
-Ricks ~$130 p/n 386-2350
-Electrosport ~$135 p/n ESG529 (shows that it works for 98-01 and replaces 31120-MBG-D01, 31120-MBG-003)
-Servicehonda ~171 p/n 31120-MBG-D01 OR ~$173 31120-MBG-003 (difference looks like 003 might be D01 now?)
Thanks all. Eventually this VFR is going to work properly! I'm hoping to order parts this week.
If you're careful and the gasket isn't super bonded to the cover, you can usually save them and re-use them.
get a couple of very very long metric bolts and cut the heads off so they are just studs. as long as you can find 'em.
use those as "guide pins" to put the cover back on again, as the magnets of the rotor are very strong and tend to yank the cover (with the stator inside) off target, making it hard to line up.
do the other bolts up, then thread out the homemade guide pins, and replace with bolts.
Thanks for the tips.
Anything good or bad about the four stator options? Did I miss any?
1) Will I need to order anything in addition to the stator, such as the engine cover gasket (I think yes)?
As mentioned above, they often come off virtually intact, you'll prolly have to cut the gasket where the wires enter the cover (where the thick rubber grommet is), but when reassembling a little gasket goo and you're aces.
2) Will I need any special tools (Some place I look say yes, others say no)?
Torx key (similar to Allen keys but star shaped)... can't remember the sizing, maybe 4mm or 5mm... this will be required to remove the 4 or 5 bolts that fix the stator to the inside of the engine cover.. and a another one that screws down a bracket to keep the wires from entering the rotor/stator intercourse matrix (just made these words up but they sound convincing don't they??).
3) Most importantly, which stator should I order (and do I have the correct p/ns and cheapest retailers)?
Any of the options you mention are fine.
For not a lot more $ the Honda one seems to last longer. Any idea of the difference between ~$171 p/n 31120-MBG-D01 OR ~$173 31120-MBG-003, or if only one will work on the 1999 VFR? I search the Internet without much luck.
Thanks. The catch for me is that the Electrosport version replaces both Honda numbers. In math, that (might) make both Honda parts equal-ish. I'm just trying to work that out. If both would fit/work and one is superior, I'd rather get that superior one.
That second link gave me all kinds of malware warnings, FYI.
The Ricks Stator is wound differently from the OEM stator. The OEM stators are Delta wound while many of the aftermarket stators are Wye wound. Delta winding results in higher amps but lower voltage. WYE winding results in higher voltage and lower amps. The lower amperage generally aids in longevity.
The correct Ricks number should be 21-121. You can order it from my site (www.wiremybike,com) for a discounted price and free shipping in the US.
Generally the gasket is ok but if needed I can ship you one or you can pick it up from the dealer. The advice on the alignment studs is good and worth a couple $ for the bolts.
DO NOT buy the electrojunk part. It is crap. Repeat..CRAP.
also, you will find difficulty removing the allens that hold the stator in place. They have factory locktite on them. I just cut them off and remove the stubs with vice grips later, then use suitable bolts on re-assembly.
I just talked with Honda in CA.
p/n 31120-MBG-D01 is for 2000-2001
p/n 31120-MBG-003 is for 1998-1999
They could not tell me if they were different in any way or if they were interchangable.
Does anyone here know if they are interchangeable and what the difference might be (longevity, winding type, connectors, etc.)?
Has anyone used the D01 on the 1998-1999 model?
Also:
http://www.partzilla...XP-4185276.html Rick's for $108, but It seems that some have died within a few months.
http://www.partzilla...XP-4582843.html Does this Electrosport really fit all of these model Hondas? Perhaps a stator from oen of those would bolt in also.
This sure gets confusing in a hurry...
Thanks,
On http://www.vfrdiscus...ator-rewinding/
I found http://www.customrewind.com/ (Gary) and 800-798-7282. But the forum said he was retiring. Does anyone know if he is stll around? I got no answer when I called.
On http://www.vfrdiscus...ator-rewinding/
I found http://www.customrewind.com/ (Gary) and 800-798-7282. But the forum said he was retiring. Does anyone know if he is stll around? I got no answer when I called.
Keep calling throughout the day. It took me a few tries to get him on the phone.
leave him a message or let me know if you want his cell number.
I've tried him a bunch of times without luck. It just rings until it stops. lol
My diagnostic work has taken a step backward. I realized that my stator AC check was supposed to be done unplugged. So today I got in another 80 miles. AT home teh voltage was fluctuating slightly. The stator was 60VAC across each of the three options. The diodes on the R/R tested perfectly. I did add a new ground strap this morning.
This is making less sense the more diagnostic work I do...
Sounds like your stator is working ok...unless when it gets hot the wires short internally...sometimes that happens because the lacquer they are coated with fails at high temps and comes off.
Sounds like your stator is working ok...unless when it gets hot the wires short internally...sometimes that happens because the lacquer they are coated with fails at high temps and comes off.
I suspect that this is what happened on my 98. It would pass the service manual tests when cool, but I would lose one phase of the stator when it was hot.
Back at it today. I replaced the ground wire the other day despite it measuring no loss. Today I replaced the short power line from the 30 amp fuse to the wire harnes connector. One end showed some corrosion and it showed about .3V loss.
Still, it varies from 12.3V-13.5V at idle, and 13.3V-14.2V at RPM.
14.2 will get you there. That's how my bike has been for years and years.
We'd agree if it stayed at 14.2, but it does not.
Ride it. If it starts every time, all summer long, then you don't have a problem.
It does not; there is a problem.
I went round and round with this same thing last year. Installed junk to get me through Tmac and then failure 3000 miles later. THIS time I installed the whole kaboodle from tightwad. Now I get 13.4 at idle and 14.5 everywhere else. All day every day. It is charging better than new. I should remove the volt meter. My brother, the mechanic calls it the "worry meter"
Sounds like your stator is working ok...unless when it gets hot the wires short internally...sometimes that happens because the lacquer they are coated with fails at high temps and comes off.
I suspect that this is what happened on my 98. It would pass the service manual tests when cool, but I would lose one phase of the stator when it was hot.
This happen on mine and i had a warning but did not figure out till after the stator failed. did a oil change and i think i drop a phase and then the stator over heated and cook my oil. Got home from the mountains and notice my less then 500 mile change oil was totally dark brown in color, the next weekend the stator fried and mean totally fried and the oil turned black.
Thanks. Is there a link to this complete mod? My concern is that components won't fix it if there is a wiring problem.
I went round and round with this same thing last year. Installed junk to get me through Tmac and then failure 3000 miles later. THIS time I installed the whole kaboodle from tightwad. Now I get 13.4 at idle and 14.5 everywhere else. All day every day. It is charging better than new. I should remove the volt meter. My brother, the mechanic calls it the "worry meter"
Thats the beauty of Tightwad's VFRness. You get gigantic wires and professional connectors.
http://www.wiremybike.com/
If your Stator or R/R are bad no amount of wiring will fix them. If however they are good then the VFRness is a great addition and can (usually will) improve things. As far as which R/R....I prefer the OEM fit to an aftermarket (makes buying one if needed on the road much less of a hassle). I like the Ricks unit....it has the MOSFET technology. I sell that one because I have personally used it and have had great feedback from others as well...plus Ricks is super helpful and personable.
Update:
I recevied the VFRness the other day and installed it this morning. 14.5V at RPM right away. I took it for an 80+ mile ride (plenty long to see the usual failure, I think) adn it stuck to 14.4-14.5V at RPM and about 13.6V near idle. It has been sitting in the garage for 5-6 hours and sits at 13.0V now. I still need to get brave enough for a real test...but the fairy dust might have just worked.
While I was in there I took a look at the ground terminator block (green connector). Mine looked factory new, so I left it be.
Update:
I recevied the VFRness the other day and installed it this morning. 14.5V at RPM right away. I took it for an 80+ mile ride (plenty long to see the usual failure, I think) adn it stuck to 14.4-14.5V at RPM and about 13.6V near idle. It has been sitting in the garage for 5-6 hours and sits at 13.0V now. I still need to get brave enough for a real test...but the fairy dust might have just worked.
While I was in there I took a look at the ground terminator block (green connector). Mine looked factory new, so I left it be.
Now with the addition of a MOSFET R/R you could nail that voltage down permanently and be much more reliable. Since I installed one, and hardwired the R/R to the battery, I get a solid 14.4v no matter what RPM or condition, its great piece of mind.
Just back from 3 days of mountain riding and over 1000 miles. The bike showed 14.3-14.5V at all times while riding and 12.8-13.0 at idle. I'm declaring it fixed. :) Thank you guys for all of the help. About to post a tire thread...really.
Just back from 3 days of mountain riding and over 1000 miles. The bike showed 14.3-14.5V at all times while riding and 12.8-13.0 at idle. I'm declaring it fixed. :) Thank you guys for all of the help. About to post a tire thread...really.hts on
at the moment my voltage is weirding out. I´m getting 14.2 at idle BUT it drops to 13.8 at any revs above that. Both are solid voltages and don´t vary by much if at all. This is with brights on.
what does this mean as its the opposite to what everyone else seems to be having, voltage rises with the revs? Is my RR installed upside down? :)
anyone?
Since the middle of May 2013 charging voltage at RMP has been a solid 14.4V. Yesterday, for the first time (3.5 months and 4k miles after the changes), the meter showed 13.3V at RPM after I went through a muddy puddle. As I rode it over 10 or less miles, the voltage slowly crept back up to 14.3-14.5V at RPM. This seems very odd. Thoughts?
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