I wounder how many of you 5th gen owners have change the fuel filter that is inside the tank?
I Honda service place told me it chould be change every third year.
I have a new filter now and going to change it, just wounder if anyone has some good adwise, aside having the tank as empty as possible....... :wink:
Keny,
I see that there is a posting in the maintenance forum explaining the 2000 filter replacement. (Sans pictures)
RickF
you will need to...drain you fuel, disconnect and take the tank off, unbolt the pump from the tank to change the filter. it is an hour job..
you can still do it with the tank on the bike...but it is quite tight to manage to remove it.
I found that after pumping most of the fuel from the tank, propping it up to get the remaining fuel in one spot really helped to get it fully siphoned out. After doing that, removing the high pressure and return hoses resulted in almost no spillage. I couldn't very well see how I could turn the tank upside down and hold it while I removed those connections as the FSM recommends. That must require 2 people and I had no help. Also, be sure to purchase two new crush washers for the high pressure feed line banjo bolt. While it may seem ok to skimp and re-use the old ones, consider that you have fuel at about 35 psi going through there and even the slightest of leaks will result in fuel being sprayed or dripping right on top of the engine / exhaust directly under your crotch. The $6 or so they cost from Honda = money well spent.
They are 12mm crush washers, and one should be able to source them from other than Honda if needed.
They would fit, but being aluminum, I would not trust them.
I tried some aluminum ones on my brake system one time, and torquing the banjo bolts to the factory specified setting with a torque wrench made the aluminum crush washer deform so badly it began to creep out of the gap between the banjo bolt and the brake master cylinder.
I would go with copper for sure.
http://www.ebay.com/...cat=0&_from=R40
Or take a hammer and pound the old ones flat again and then reuse them.
Changing the fuel filter is a non-trivial task, mainly because pulling the pump out of the tank is a very tight squeeze.
Anyway, here's my main tip - place a large folded-up towel over the subframe behind the tank. Drain the tank as best as possible using a shaker siphon and then remove all the bolts holding the tank to the bike and also the electrical plugs. Flip the tank onto its back and on the towel. From here you can safely disconnect all hoses. You could also try and remove the pump at this point but it would be safer low to the ground on a soft towel.
When you get the fuel pump out - after much wiggling - you'll need a decent pair of pliers and a screwdriver to get the fuel filter removed - it's a very tight fit and you will struggle a little so be careful not to bend anything while trying to remove it.
I wouldn't do that too many times though, as every time you pound them out, you end up workhardening it so it might not deform enough to seal properly and the washers can also develop cracks. For such safety critical systems I would not be too stingy and just buy new crush washers every time I have to take them of for any servicing....Or take a hammer and pound the old ones flat again and then reuse them.
This officially scares the crap out of me. And I'm not frightened easily, hell, just look at the state of my bike.Or take a hammer and pound the old ones flat again and then reuse them.
They would fit, but being aluminum, I would not trust them.
I tried some aluminum ones on my brake system one time, and torquing the banjo bolts to the factory specified setting with a torque wrench made the aluminum crush washer deform so badly it began to creep out of the gap between the banjo bolt and the brake master cylinder.
I would go with copper for sure.
Ahhh, thank you I was wondering about that.
The only reason I have replaced the fuel filter on my Y2k was because the A&A kit came with a stronger fuel injection pump, which meant the whole assembly had to be removed from the tank anyway. A new OEM filter was included in the kit.
Ciao,
Hey when you get it out post some pix's please ......
This officially scares the crap out of me. And I'm not frightened easily, hell, just look at the state of my bike.Or take a hammer and pound the old ones flat again and then reuse them.
It's even got....Suuuu,.....Su-Su-Suz........Suzzzz........SUZUKI parts on it.
There, I finally said it. (please don't hate me)
Tell me about it, I don't even reuse crush washers on the oil drain plug! I just pick up a bunch of crush washers when I first get a vehicle, and haven't needed to restock very often. I mean, they are bloody cheap, might as well, especially when related to safety, or just a pain in the backside to get back in and fix later, should there be a leak.
Never purchase a crush washer in 35 years of riding and maintaining mc, I have always re-flatten them and reused them but if it makes you fill safer by all means install new ones.