Racetech Fork Springs

Hello guys,

I have combed the threads and read all what I could find regarding swapping the OEM springs for RaceTech fork springs. I am about 180lbs without gear and my ride style isn't aggressive, just plain ol' fun rides (at least, so far), so I got the .90kg/mm spring rated forks. I am only interested in swapping the springs and fork seals at the moment.

Now, I am trying to swap the stock springs out but I am really not sure how to go about installing the shorted RaceTech springs. I have read in most places that I need to cut the aluminum pipe that came with the springs to compensate for the deficiency in length, but I do not know exactly how I need to measure it.

I found this somewhere on the Web, "So basically I have to measure from top of the spring to the top of the fork tube and subtract that by the fork cap thread length and add 10mm spacer."

This bit of info is helpful but not very clear.


Can anyone point me in the direction where to find the information needed - unambiguous info - that is.

I appreciate it all. Thanks.       

daqangel-

Welcome to the forum.

You might send a PM to Huntingguns, he's a local here in Oklahoma City as well, and a bit of a whiz when it comes to working on these bikes.  He's re-built a 5th gen like yours, and I believe he did springs up front, so he might be able to shed light on the measurements.

Also, I'm a machinist here in town.  If you need metal trimmed to a precise length, let me know.  I'd be happy to help.  However, when it comes to 5th gen anything, I'm a bit clueless.

I did complete write up. Springs and valves

http://www.vfrdiscus...ch-gold-valves/

You actually want about 15mm of installed pre-load. Jamie Daugherty has a good how to with pics on his website. Welcome to the forum.

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I forgot about the how to thread HS did. Very good instructions with pics. See his above post and go to that link. Let us know if we can help.

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You know... from now on I'll think I'll start looking around for threads.

Could have saved the guy some time. :)

Thanks to all of you guys who replied. Surely gonna save me some money.

You know... from now on I'll think I'll start looking around for threads.

Could have saved the guy some time. :)

Yokel, I sent you a PM. ;)

I did complete write up. Springs and valves

http://www.vfrdiscus...ch-gold-valves/

Lotta GOOD info. Thanks

Please, how can I make the front suspension stiffer if needed? I got the .90 kg/mm fork springs and 10wt 15wt fork oils.

I assume the stock oil weight is 7.5wt, so if I use 10wt, or 12.5wt (10wt + 15wt), would that give me stiffer forks?

Thanks.

Please, how can I make the front suspension stiffer if needed? I got the .90 kg/mm fork springs and 10wt 15wt fork oils.

I assume the stock oil weight is 7.5wt, so if I use 10wt, or 12.5wt (10wt + 15wt), would that give me stiffer forks?

Thanks.

No but it will make your valves feel more harsh.

The springs need to support the weight of you and the bike and the then the valves control the oil that flows back and forth as the suspension compresses and rebounds.

Now that you have sprung the front to support the weight of the bike and rider, if you have not changed the valve stack, then you can add some additional oil to each fork leg above the height that the manual directs.

This will reduce slightly the amount of air above the oil and will stiffen up the front slightly.

You stated that you are about 180 lbs and not very aggressive as a rider...I would just make sure that you set the sag on the front and rear after installing the stiffer springs and see how it feels to you.

Corner Carver is dead on. Once you have the spring rates right to get the balance correct on the front and rear, that is the key thing, the valving really doesn't have much work to do. All the valving does is keep the bike from pogoing. Baileyrock has an outstanding thread explaining the whole balance thing. Read that before going crazy with changing the valving.