[Non Vfr] - 4 Nation Ride (Vietnam - Cambodia - Laos - Thailand)

Hi VFRD.

It's been quite long time since my last ride report with my beloved VFR.

Currently I play with the BMW R1200GS to entertain more road types as you may know not all the roads here are great for Sport bikes.

And so, this thread is a real Ride Report, but non-VFR, which I'd like to give VFRD something else from Asia, as what I usually do.

Well, we have done couple of trips like that, however they are all organized by a tourist company and we had all logistics and administration support.
This time, we decided to go by our own. It seems really easy task for other countries, but not for those we are going to ride thru. Crazy procedures, or no procedure at all.
We all don't have much free time, so that we have tried to maximize our trip duration by apply leave Friday and afternoon Thursday. Plus two days weekend, then we have 3.5 days for the trip.

---------------------------------------

Day #1 ~ 400km from Hochiminh City (Vietnam) to Stung Treng (Cambodia).

Tracklog:

[image: Day1_zps018e6146.jpg]

We had twelve bikes for the trip. Some of them with passengers.
Noon time, at the muster point:

[image: DSC00063_zpsb4eeebbf.jpg]

Quite clear road during lunchtime, so we moved with quite good speed.
As near to the border, the road condition turned pretty bad, lots of pot holes, loose gravel, all kinds of offroad stuff...
Well, this is what we did not expect, however we knew it would be happened.
A Multistrada got punched, by a sharp stone:

[image: DSC00064_zps1f9b232e.jpg]

This Multistrada seemed ok with the road:
[image: DSC00069_zpsb6c655f4.jpg]

And of course, for my GS:

[image: DSC00067_zpsd50aa2fb.jpg]

GS really showed up it's consistent of handling ability as well as providing comport to the rider. It also proved me quality of the new Heidenau tire set, which I have just install with some km before this trip:
[image: DSC00070_zps23e88bfb.jpg]

Better road at the end of Vietnam roads:
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We reached the border gate. It's a really small check-point. Noticed there are very minimum movement of personnel and vehicles across the border.
Still did not know how sure the guys would let us go:
[image: DSC00087_zps00542c9e.jpg]

...................

Closer to the check point office:
[image: DSC00090_zps70c5d65b.jpg]

[image: DSC00107_zpsbe7a669d.jpg]

12 bikes, all types of bike:
[image: DSC00099_zpsa8997a57.jpg]

I was really there:
[image: DSC00095_zps4b09f56c.jpg]

After a while, we had the plan to head back!:
[image: DSC00101_zps5e8c9d2a.jpg]

Looks on this sign board - it's our hope at that point.
[image: DSC00098_zpsfcedd734.jpg]

Just stopped on the edge...
[image: DSC00108_zpsbb5defc9.jpg]

...

Finally, we were allowed to get thru Vietnam border. Now to register at the Cambodia side:
[image: DSC00110_zps4a8f0cbb.jpg]

[image: DSC00111_zps909b4299.jpg]

[image: DSC00113_zpsee087993.jpg]

Hit the road again, guys:
[image: DSC00112_zpsdef4ad11.jpg]

Good road condition, empty traffic...
[image: DSC00115_zps56a8b4f5.jpg]

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We decided to have dinner at this place, as we don't know where and how long we would see the restaurant again.
We had also been informed that the remain road from their to Stung Treng gonna be very bad:
[image: DSC00132_zps5e3ccc2a.jpg]

Well, just happy with what we have had. These two sport-bike riders did not care what they would face in next couple of hours:

[image: DSC00134_zps7bd4695e.jpg]

Anh ấy lúc này vẫn còn đang sung lắm!
[image: DSC00135_zpsad9206cf.jpg]

...

We decided to continue riding and rest the night at Stung Treng as initial plan.
Someone told us that the road from there to Stung Treng is very bad, however, we did not think it is such bad!! And it's around 200km long.
That was unforgettable night! All of us were exhausted with the road. Can't tell how bad it was. It was paved road, however we don't know because of poor maintenance or over loaded vehicle, there were several big pot holes, lose sand, soil and stone... My GS many time was almost dumped into the bloody big hole and the canals across the road. Poor the sport bikes, BMW S1000RR, Yamaha R6 and CBR600, it was the nightmare for them.
We had to stop several times along the road. At least two times for punched tires, some times because of two tired riders, one time the S1000RR need more gas (from other bike's tank)

A stop at middle of nowhere
[image: 001_zpseb88e399.jpg]


Reached hotel in Stung Treng almost mid night.
Here 's what we got for the first (half) day:

[image: DSC00145_zpsff5025f8.jpg]

After checked in, we went out for supper. Don't really know why the meal was so expensive.

[image: 002_zpsb7b2f33a.jpg]

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Nice trip Viethorse!

U wonder why the meal was so expensive when you ride up on bikes that would be the equivalent of building a house?

They saw you guys coming a mile off!  :goofy:

I spend 2 months in Indonesia and when on the road, my friend always made me stay in the car at 1st when buying stuff while driving to Bali.

It was bad enough he said, for they could see the Jakarta plates on the car, thus hiking the price. Spot a white guy and you pay even more...... 

PS is that a Nuvi 510?

That can be bricked into a ZUMO.......

Only setback is that if you bought a Lifetime Map Update, you need to set it back to be a Nuvi before updating. Garmin will want to load a software update first thus freezing the unit (which can be fixed but is a pain).

Hey Dutchy. Nice catch on my issue.

However, I still don't think that's reason.

1. The hotel owner brought us to that place, he helped us to call the meals. And he's one of friend of our friend. :) I don't think he lets go easily.

2. You may face with such behaviour in Indonesia or Vietnam, but in Laos or Cambodia. People there are very nice.

For the GPS, mine is Nuvi 500. It's really good to me in term of usage and cost. The Zumo is crazy expensive (double to triple the price) in comparison with Nuvi 5xx and I don't think I need more than what Nuvi provides me.

Day #2 ~ 230km from Stung Treng (Cambodia) to Pakse (Laos).

Tracklog:

[image: Day2_zps1c4d193d.jpg]

Gold River Hotel, stationed just beside the Mekong river. Nice and well equipped hotel. I think it was $25 for a twin bed room, without breakfast, with free wifi, large parking area.

Nice views from my room:
[image: DSC00143_zpsc0dc87a3.jpg]

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Our guys were there to prepare the bikes:
[image: DSC00150_zps38149ea7.jpg]

Met an US biker - Jake - He told us that he had been riding there in Southeast Asia for around 20years. He made the map, which I can't recall the name. Asked him for the road from there to Pakse, he said all well paved road.
[image: DSC00153_zpscb356d12.jpg]

Went for a breakfast:
[image: DSC00155_zpsaf6df3b0.jpg]

Food there is almost same as what we have in Vietnam. They even provide us Vietnamese coffee.
[image: DSC00159_zpsc2629477.jpg]

[image: DSC00160_zps5fb8da37.jpg]

We also found that there are a lot of people who can speak Vietnamese fluently:
[image: DSC00157_zpsa7cf217b.jpg]

There was no ATM or credit card machine, or something like that. So to be survived, need to be well prepared with cash - for Laos and Cambodia:
[image: DSC00158_zps3dcbc01d.jpg]

We departed around 9:30 AM.

Nice pics as usual Trung!  I am glad you are finally getting to put that adventure bike to some real use.  Has the BMW lived up to all your expectation??

Rollin

Nice pics as usual Trung!  I am glad you are finally getting to put that adventure bike to some real use.  Has the BMW lived up to all your expectation??

Rollin

Hi Sy,

Hope you and family are doing very well. I really miss you guys. It's now going near to one year annivesary of my trip to the US. :)

About the bike, yeah, my bike - as you guys may know that I had been looking for an old GS, or even a wreked one to buy due to my limitted budget. So this bike was the one like that. It is rebuilt from salvage. With something broken at the front-end, just the beak frame and the dashboard, then the ABS no functioning and ABS pump has been removed.

Well, beside that, I am really happy with the bike. Great handling, great shocks front and rear.

I have repainted the bike, added quite number of farkles, i.e. crash bars, aux fog lights, fuze block, cylinder head covers, USB powerlet... I have also replaced new tire set for the bike, as you can see on the pix.

Great bike to do serious riding on all kind of terrain.

The second day began with not a good sign. With very kind support from the hotel manager, we could not find anyone around Stung Treng who can deal with the rear tire.
Most likely the CB1000 would not be able to pass Laos-Thailand border.
We passed the Mekong river, and the sun was shined very hot. Hmm, this area seemed much hotter than in HCMC.
It was even hotter when we faced with this bloody issue!!
[image: DSC00174_zpsf59133e0.jpg]

Dang, it quite a nail:

[image: DSC00170_zps95b7ef40.jpg]

And worse, it is not tubeless tire.
[image: DSC00169_zps30d3e6ff.jpg]

And we did not have any spare tube.

[image: DSC00172_zpsee36aed7.jpg]

This Africa twin seems to be the only one in Vietnam. The owner of this bike did not intend to ride this bike for this trip. He had planed to pass Phnom Penh to exchange with his GSA, which is stored there. However, due to long long process at the Vietnam border, we could not make a passing by Phnom Penh in the day 1.

Hmm, Multistrada looks safer:
[image: DSC00171_zps5a82c2ea.jpg]

And of course, my GS also:
[image: DSC00175_zpsd9fc27be.jpg]
...

We decided to split into two group.
One stayed to deal with the Africa twin. And the other one proceed to Cambodia - Laos border for checking the procedures and others.

I was heading to the border.
Reached the border without any issue. The officers there they speak Vietnamese quite well:
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Asked for the procedure, informed the other group, and take a rest, to wait for them to appear:
[image: DSC00185_zpse26ada85.jpg]

The tire work took more time than what we though, and we proceeded to check out from Cambodia:
[image: DSC00197_zps1b4a3057.jpg]

Now to Laos' checkpoint:
[image: DSC00201_zps4db9d688.jpg]


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Passport control office:
[image: DSC00204_zps4009663d.jpg]

Almost done!
[image: DSC00208_zpsea09e535.jpg]

Funny to see that UN sign having had multiple spelling mistakes corrected by hand, waiting for someone that knows how to spell office and drugs....   :goofy:

Your BMW's ass looks as wide as my 6th gen setup; how wide is it?

Yeah the ZUMO's are quite expensive here as well; my NUVI now has the ZUMO software (ability to switch off recalculation of route and a setting for much larger keys to type and address with gloves on). But if you are happy, leave it since bricking it always can go wrong.

Wow, great trip! From a picture in one of your previous posts it was abvious you were planning a long ride. Great pics as always, your reports are always a treat :fing02:
I would love to see my motorcycle GPS showing the Vietnam/Cambodia border. Maybe one day, one can only dream :biggrin:

Looks like a great road trip. I'd love to see a Googlemap of the trip to put it all into perspective and see where you went.

Funny to see that UN sign having had multiple spelling mistakes corrected by hand, waiting for someone that knows how to spell office and drugs....   :goofy:

Your BMW's ass looks as wide as my 6th gen setup; how wide is it?

Yeah the ZUMO's are quite expensive here as well; my NUVI now has the ZUMO software (ability to switch off recalculation of route and a setting for much larger keys to type and address with gloves on). But if you are happy, leave it since bricking it always can go wrong.

Hehe. I don't know if the UN sign vetted by someone who really know what all the words mean. :D

I think my BMW is wider than my 6th Gen (with OEM bags). And also the wide handle bar. They makes the bike looks really big.

I don't know about the differences btw Zumo and Nuvi software. I can install good and updated maps of Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, as well as the US. And I usually use my fingers with gloves on to control the device.

Wow, great trip! From a picture in one of your previous posts it was abvious you were planning a long ride. Great pics as always, your reports are always a treat :fing02:
I would love to see my motorcycle GPS showing the Vietnam/Cambodia border. Maybe one day, one can only dream :biggrin:

Thank you.

You must know about my US trip - it's really my luxury dream - and I have made it come true, very true. Why not you riding on SE Asia and Vietnam?!

Worst case, you can ship your GPS to me, I can send you back with a pix of your GPS showing Vietnam/cambodia border. LOL....

Looks like a great road trip. I'd love to see a Googlemap of the trip to put it all into perspective and see where you went.

Oops... Sure, I will fix it.

If you follow my previous trip reports - you may know including tracklog is one of my favourite.

Thanks for good catch.

thanks for sharing mate. How did the guy on the BMW S1000RR go? I did a ~900km day on mine, sure had better roads that what you guys had though!

thanks for sharing mate. How did the guy on the BMW S1000RR go? I did a ~900km day on mine, sure had better roads that what you guys had though!

Haha, That guys just happy during the riding time within Thailand. Other than that, all the roads for him are almost or really nightmare. LOL.

The S1000RR and The R6 should not be on this trip. However, those guys have balls.

@superfunkomatic: Tracklogs added. Thanks.

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The front group done the Passport control at Laos side. Now for the bikes:

[image: DSC00210_zps862703e9.jpg]

Happy time - to forget the bloody high temp there at noon time:
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The Laos officer was pretty nice guy. He have studied in Vietnam for 5-6 years or so, he can speak Vietnamese quite well. Very helpful guy.

[image: DSC00216_zpsa0bddab0.jpg]

Done with bike's paperwork, we headed to the Khone Phapheng waterfall - the larget Waterfall in Southeast Asia. Link for more info about the waterfall.
[image: DSC00220_zpsa88cc561.jpg]

[image: DSC00222_zpse01cfceb.jpg]

In Laos, "Huay" means Bridge, I think:
[image: DSC00224_zps8936dc62.jpg]

[image: DSC00226_zpscb580c3b.jpg]

Really sunny, really hot:
[image: DSC00228_zps7aba0807.jpg]

It's one of adventure styles:
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Reaching the waterfall:
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Ticket to get into the tourist area and for bike park:
[image: DSC00244_zpse8930510.jpg]

...

I have done a little search on the map, and found that my photo above just somehow captured 1% of the overall waterfall.
The below pix may tell the true size of the biggest waterfall in SE Asia:

[image: Waterfall_zpse080916b.jpg]

Someone may like to see this video - BBC made it about normal life of locals here:

[video: http://youtube.com/embed/0BatNeIDbdw?html5=1&fs=1]

Some photos of the Khone Phapheng waterfall, the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia:
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It's how the waterfall looks like. I just be able to capture a small corner of it:
[image: DSC00271_zps0a1c3aa2.jpg]

A small shelter providing soft drinks, souvenir, and rest area for tourists.
:
[image: DSC00268_zpsb2f9c9d6.jpg]

Downstream of the fall:
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Then we moved inside the tourist are for lunch.
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Very nice and well set up restaurant:
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All cooking stuff were arranged pretty neat. Notice the clock, that time we hadn't had lunch yet.
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These are the tool they used to cook sticky rice - almost same as what we have in Vietnam:
[image: DSC00295_zpsd4232f54.jpg]

Too hungry, we were focus on the lunch then forget to take food pix. [image: icon10.gif] All good food.
During luch, we called the other group, they are still struggling with the tire. We talked to the restaurant that they should prepare for the next coming group.

As always VietHorse..... Great pictures, that fisherman walking the wire wearing flip-flops, amazing.

As always VietHorse..... Great pictures, that fisherman walking the wire wearing flip-flops, amazing.

Thanks for going along my rides, Monk. I had no chance to see that by my own eyes, as I was just at a small tourist area, the fishermen must working at the remote side.

Friends told me that it would be lots of fun if we could have time for kayaking.

During we having lunch near the waterfall, the other team, just around 30-40km away still playing with the tire.

My friend got the bike from middle of nowhere to this area by a passing by truck:

[image: P1090066_zpsf26d0a86.jpg]

And it was the time for the pain ass:
[image: P1090070_zps3811184c.jpg]

Wazz up?:
[image: P1090065_zps656c4718.jpg]

Looked like they were chasing a mouse...
[image: P1090055_zpsb3094d7f.jpg]

Dang.. That's a tire job!!!...
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Oh hell, that's the tube!!!!
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So,... What's gonna be next!?

The next group finally reached the Waterfall. They had very hurry lunch and we all headed out to the street to find stuff to fix the bike on truck. All our attempts for fixing bike tire was failed.

The CB1000 tire looked like this:

[image: DSC_0926_zps9ec3ab88.jpg]

And the Africa Twin made really pain in the ass.
Bike was on truck, but without wire, rope to secure...

A little fun to make the life happier:

[image: DSC_0967_zpsb7338a27.jpg]

It's complimentary to the owner of the broken Africa twin - we brought the disc from the restaurant above:

[image: 1238086_707038429313367_1658900744_n.jpg]

[image: 945188_707038002646743_321248614_n.jpg]

Well, than both bike were on truck.
We had no more choice rather than staying in Pakse, the town was around 100km ahead.

Gas for bikes and drinks for guys:

[image: DSC00297_zps02654f62.jpg]

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Another little rest after a really good road and speed.

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Know how many riders usually jump [image: lol8.gif]:
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Near to Pakse, more traffic coming up. Not only human, but dogs, cats and cows. Dang, that's stress ride.
Reached hotel Champasak Grand around 5:30PM, just beside Mekong river:

[image: DSC00319_zpsa12c353f.jpg]

We were all there:
[image: DSC00326_zps47bbf8b7.jpg]

When the truck arrived, both broken bike were downloaded:
[image: DSC00327_zps483601ed.jpg]

...

great Photo's thanks again for sharing, looks like you guys were treating the tyre problems with the right sense of humour, couldn't help laughing at your attempts to break the bead, that inner-tube sure was shredded.

I'm guessing the guy will carry a spare inner-tube on his next adventure? :goofy:

Thanks.

We have spent lot of time fixing those bikes. We cut short almost half of the planned route due to the tire issue.

The root causes was the changes of the checkpoint at Vietnam-Cambodia border. Originally we planned to pass the other checkpoint, that checkpoint would lead to Phnom Penh (Cambodia capital) and my friend could replace his Africa Twin by his own R1200GSA. Meaning to say the Africa twin (tube type) was considered as a temporary bike for him this trip. Then we had some issue with that checkpoint, we had to change the plan, moved to other checkpoint. So passing thru Phnom Penh was not a good choice as it was at the other way round.

However, things have been settled well. Happy with friendship.

For the bike, he's now listed the Africa Twin in Classified. :goofy:

Day #3 ~ 420km from Pakse (Laos) thru Ubon (Thailand) to Preah Vihear (Cambodia).

Tracklog:
[image: Day3_zps5feefa43.jpg]

Saturday morning, woke up and realized that it was heavy rain last night. Dang, not a good thing to ride in the rain in Laos.
Well, lucky us, rain stopped by the sunlight. And the truck also arrived to pick up two broken bikes:
[image: DSC00328_zps6d669b7d.jpg]

A morning adventure to find tires... [image: wink.png]
[image: DSC00329_zpseb6690e9.jpg]

Great road from Pakse town to Pakse checkpoint, approx 50km. First time saw Laos traffic police around 10km from the hotel. Slowed down and waived to them. Feeling much better than seeing Vietnam traffic police. [image: deal.gif].
Checkpoint, easy procedure, easy time, and wait for the tires to come from Thai side:
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[image: DSC00336_zps1f9cb27c.jpg]

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Wait a bit for Passport stamp:
[image: DSC00342_zps142c575d.jpg]

[image: DSC00344_zpsf077c37e.jpg]

My tires are great:
[image: DSC00346_zpsb63617a1.jpg]

...

While the other side of the Check point, work was still going on:

[image: 005_zps51084727.jpg]

Those tires were delivered, finally, from Thai border:
[image: 006_zps8a063a25.jpg]

Our guys took care of the tire machines, shop owners just looked standing:
[image: 007_zpsa7f55c4b.jpg]

I seemed a hard work:
[image: 008_zpsbe5c0f6b.jpg]

Almost done for the Africa twin:
[image: 009_zps6fd98cdc.jpg]

Nice tire for the CB1K:
[image: 010_zpsb39f2a58.jpg]

[image: 011_zps5bbdde5e.jpg]

Done the tire job, we all gathered at the Thailand check point for the immigration and bike import processes:
[image: DSC00347_zps398aa876.jpg]

[image: DSC00349_zps7e387b5d.jpg]

New tire looked cool:
[image: DSC00351_zps64ba4c42.jpg]

Welcome to Thailand:
[image: DSC00356_zps80d5ead7.jpg]

[image: DSC00359_zpsdbfb34a9.jpg]

We learned the procedures along the ride:
[image: DSC00363_zpse43ddb7f.jpg]

Purely paperwork - lots of photocopy job for passport, bike title, etc...
[image: DSC00367_zps5957e8ca.jpg]

[image: DSC00369_zps30b9c96b.jpg]

Well, time out, of all the paperwork hassle:
[image: DSC00376_zpsdc77896b.jpg]

It was just 100m to the great riding road...
[image: DSC00386_zps5274b6ee.jpg]

Whilst doing immigration, I have contacted a friend in Ubon, he said he will escort us when arriving Ubon.
Noon time, we have everything were settled. Hit the Thailand roads.
Great roads from the Checkpoint to Ubon. We reached 2xx km/h without any issue. [image: naughty.gif]
My GS also went almost 200km/h and then gotta slowdown to 18x as I did not believe much in the bike with lots of wind. However, that's great feeling, totally different from previous days, crazy with bad roads and buddies' broken bikes.
Reached Ubon, we met James with his KTM950 Adventure in front of the Kawasaki dealer shop. We took some times to see the bikes there. Then James guided us to the lunch place, good parking area, good food.

[image: IMG_0800_zpse65513c0.jpg]

James may though "why those guys talk a lot" [image: lol8.gif]:
[image: IMG_0799_zps6e8177d8.jpg]

After lunch, James brought us to KTM/Triumph showroom. A friend of mine changed his rear tire there:
[image: DSC00396_zps4382f3ad.jpg]

[image: DSC00388_zps9445e6bc.jpg]

[image: DSC00389_zpsda639a9a.jpg]


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Loạt Boneville:
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...

Multistrada is going to have new shoe:
[image: DSC00402_zps80c267b4.jpg]

Oh hell, is it called Adventure? No way:
[image: DSC00406_zps164e5b7c.jpg]

Let's my GS be dirty until I safely homed. Who cares.
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Big THANKs to James:
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Hope to see you again soon:
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We headed to Chong Sangam checkpoint (Thai - Cambodia border) right after that!

We were in hurry to reach the Checkpoint before 5PM as we was informed that the office there would be closed then.
My gosh, that time was really rush. It was almost 4PM, and there is only around 180km to the border gate!!. D@mn.
Not only that, we hit a rain on the way, really heavy rain. Gotta stopped for wearing rain coats. At least 3 minutes wasted as we came into the LPG station instead of the Gasoline station [image: naughty.gif].
Rain was heavier and heavier... The road surface more slippery... Speed suck. Heart beat like hell....
Our plan was going thru the border, ride around 150km more deeply into Cambodia land, where called Preah Vihear.
If that plan went well, we could nicely done one-day-three-nations. [image: deal.gif]
As near to the check point, the rain stopped. Nice and twisty road made us more excited. Tried to lean my bike on every corner, as we had no chance since departure.

Reached checkpoint. It was ~ 5:30OPM.
D@mn,.... Office closed!??

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Now what??!
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