Your inputs on a few questions are appreciated....
Measured my rear rotor with a micrometer and it is close to the limit and the wear looks uneven/marked
[image: rotor.jpg]
Looking at the service manual, it looks like I can leave the bearing in place. This bearing reportedly a *BIATCH* to remove, so if not needed perse, I want to avoid. (I will have a pull but not insist...)
[image: Capture.JPG]
So.........
After removing (1) (2) (3) will the rear axle pull out easily?
Ot must I prepare for battle?
Regrease the axle with "special" grease or will universal automotive or copper grease do fine?
I have a spare rear axle so I will measure and post of pics of both then, so you may tell me which one is "betterder" :-)
Ordered an EBC rotor and pads; decided to give China Ebay a miss...
You should be able to pull the axle really easily after removing 1, 2 and 3.
Nut number 1 may be semi-soldered on over the years... I needed a 1.8 metre extensión bar to get enough leverage to loosen it off. Serious chit.
Don't forget of course that this nut has a safety notch feature in the washer that you must straighten out BEFORE trying to loosen the nut.
Once that nut's off.. if the axle doesn't slide out by just loooking at it... a slight knock with a large mallet from the LHS. No fear...
Just a tip... loosen the bolts that hold the brake rotor onto the axle BEFORE you remove or loosen the large axle nut... that way you are using the bike as a vice... once off the bike it can be tricky as (at least on 5th and 6th gens) the bolt heads are very shallow in height and it can be hard to get a good grip on them even with the best quality socket... you may even need an impact wrench (I did recently) to get these babies loose... and this will require precisión impacts... (and due to the difficult Access you may need to remove the axle-rotor assembly from the bike and use a vice/workbench after all) as you can so easily strip those boltheads and then you'll need to get all Friday the 13th with an anglegrinder.
My axle was seized on the 4th gen project. A sledgehammer wasn't cutting it. I had to put it in the press, took a bit above 20 tons pressure to break loose. The swingarm wasn't on the bike, which made that bit easier.
My axle was seized on the 4th gen project. A sledgehammer wasn't cutting it. I had to put it in the press, took a bit above 20 tons pressure to break loose. The swingarm wasn't on the bike, which made that bit easier.
My axle was seized on the 4th gen project. A sledgehammer wasn't cutting it. I had to put it in the press, took a bit above 20 tons pressure to break loose. The swingarm wasn't on the bike, which made that bit easier.
:unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
??
When I took my rear axle out when I was working on the 848 conversion (one more part to go!), I couldn't get the axle out. It was stuck to the sprocket carrier. I had to take the entire swingarm, plop it on the hydraulic press, and pump until the gunshot went off.
Dutchy, if you have never had the back apart, I would take everything on the axle off and give it a good cleaning and regreasing. That includes popping the eccentric out. Never know how much dirt and grime you have in there. Mine had a ton. The triumph eccentric had what appeared to be never-seize on it. The VFR one was just dirt.
If you're going through the trouble to take the axle out, then trust me, since you're already in that far, you really really DO want to remove all the bearings, and completely clean and regrease them.
Who knows, if they look to be in bad shape, then you can replace them before they fail, and possibly damage your axle and cause a breakdown far from home.
This may turn out to be more work that you are ready to handle.
Try not to pass the point of no return. Otherwise you will either have to haul the bike to the shop or remove the swing arm to take it there for repairs.
Another option is to pop the axle out of the bearing cassette, buy the needed bearings and seals from the aftermarket (way cheaper than Honda) and take the bearing cassette to your local bike shop and have them swap the bearings, then reinstall everything back on the bike at home.
Do you really need to take the axle off the swingarm??....Just wondering, can't you just unbolt the disk from the axle flange then take it off the bike by working it through what looks like a lot of space in that cross shaped central cut out on the disk??
Unfortunately you cannot just slide the rotor off.. The X-shaped slot doesn't allow this.. Wish it did!!
You have to pull the axle.
Whether or not you decide to pull bearings and replace etc is your prerogative.. I never bothered in 130,000 km and the axle slid right out and the rear shows no sign whatsoever of wear and tear.
I have swapped a Gen 4 rear rotor without pulling the axle. You will have to use a rubber mallet to coax it a little. Same with installing the new one. It isn't violent. Just a couple of precise hits.
I've had part number 4 (the sprocket carrier) seize onto the axle before, which necessitated a lot of swearing to free... Do you have a selection of gear pullers to hand?
I've had part number 4 (the sprocket carrier) seize onto the axle before, which necessitated a lot of swearing to free... Do you have a selection of gear pullers to hand?
Ciao,
nope.............. so when the time comes, I will see if the bearing holder comes out easily. if not leave it be....
Well, if the carrier is stuck and you can't force the rotor off the spindle, you will have one soon!
The eccentric should come out really easy, provided you remember to loosen the pinch bolt.
My axle was seized on the 4th gen project. A sledgehammer wasn't cutting it. I had to put it in the press, took a bit above 20 tons pressure to break loose. The swingarm wasn't on the bike, which made that bit easier.
Holy Cow!, 20+ tons of pressure to get it out?! Good that evidently, nothing else bent or broke in the process....
Would some sort of anti seize compound be a good thing to put on when servicing the axle, to avoid this from happening?
Some anti-seize might not be a bad idea. As I said, the triumph eccentric had it between the swingarm bore and the eccentric, but nothing was on the spline on the axle.
For those suggesting anti-sieze on the axle, I just use a light coating of grease, you've got plenty on hand (get it?) when you're repacking the brarings anyhow, so it's easy to put a light coat on the entire axle before installation.
For those suggesting anti-sieze on the axle, I just use a light coating of grease, you've got plenty on hand (get it?) when you're repacking the brarings anyhow, so it's easy to put a light coat on the entire axle before installation.
Not so much on the axle but the spline and the outside of the eccentric.
I would come to TMAC2014 and I'm sure Timmy or CC has 2 or 3 of them.. Mite be cheaper to fly here. You can always tell the wife unit that your picking up free parts.
It was packaged in a "sheltered workshop" in Germany which I like. These places offers handicapped people a place of work that takes their limitations in consideration. So that they can feel "valued" and "needed" by society.
I went for the organic instead of the sintered pads.
It even comes with the -in Germany compulsory- paperwork whereby a govenrment body certifies that this aftermarket part is allowed to be used on my specific type motorcycle (a list of bikes is included in the booklet).
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End of thread · 33 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 13 Apr 2016