Real knee jerk reaction to this but I am sure you checked the fuses, battery connections and checked that your grounds are fresh. The main ground to the frame on the right can oxidize. "Battery is good"? when was it good?
Yeah, fuses are all good. Battery was last used before winter, but was indoors on the trickle charger. Multimeter reads 12.7. Ground looks fine, but will continue to investigate there.
Unfortunately I can't perform a load test on the battery, as I can't get a load to it, and the local AutoZones don't perform such a test on motorcycle batteries. It was kept in the apartment.
I don't believe the side stand or kill switches are an issue, as the dashboard would still light up in that case.
The fuse connections looked good, but I'll pull them and clean anything that might need it.
The fact that I get a no-resistance circuit at the ignition module, but nothing after, has me most concerned. Looks like the red/green plug connects to the starter, so I don't think that's an issue here.
Cat-O'-Straphic battery failure. I had it happen to me once. There is enough punch to work the clock but nothing else. It happens. In my case it happened in front of a Harley friend after just telling him I ride Asian because I don't trust Hogs.
Needless to say, the embarrassment factor was through the roof but he helped me get a new battery so I could get home. I was 750 miles away at the time.
Key switch is showing a complete circuit.
Just checked fuses. All look good. Are there fuses not near the battery?
Tried jumping from car (off), no change.
clamp the neg post on the battery and start probing ! 1st the at the fuses.. as in getting power to the fuse.. have you check your GROUND wires yet?? i mean broken ground means no juice flowing..
pull your connections again.. are all the tangs straight? all the receivers in the right spot? nothing slipped or pushed out of the block? :comp13:
Luckily for you, I have a very disassembled 5th gen in my garage atm. If you want to check the ignition switch, you will have to move the front upper fairing away from the dash board and surround. I have my dash and surround completely removed, but you do not need to go this far to access the connector. Look for a whitish natural nylon plug with 3 wires coming in as shown below:
You will need to disconnect this connector and use a multimeter to probe the "blade" side of the connection. With the key in the off or locked position, there should be no continuity between any of the wires. I will PM you the information for the resistance between each of the pins as labelled below as this information can be very easily used to hotwire a vfr (not that it is difficult in any way, just don't want to publish where anyone can see it)
Ah. Thanks, Mad Scientist! I've removed and reinstalled the ignition module, so I'm intimately familiar with this connector. When the key is in the ON position, I'm getting low ohm continuity between two of the plugs. Perhaps one of the wires/connectors is in bad condition. I'll investigate. Considering this is the only change made since it last ran, I'm guessing this is the problem. I'll post my findings. Thanks!
Ok, wasn't sure where you were in the circuit. The important wire is the red/black wire (IGN) from the switch. With a battery hooked up and the switch on, if you probe the hot side of the fuse box at the G, D, or C fuses, you should see batt voltage. There are no relays between the ignition switch and the fuse box.
Edit - if you need me to measure continuity on anything to compare, let me know, I have access to nearly the whole harness right now.
Sidestand switch probably went bad. Cheaper to remove it than fix it.
Sometimes I don't even realized I've put the side stand up but it's very nice to have a device that will keep me from throwing myself into a ditch, a guardrail, rock wall, off a cliff. Surely salvage yard pars are plentiful. Dude has a motorcycle but he can't afford to maintain it? "As long as I've got enough money to put gas in it, I'll just keep riding it until the tires fall off. What's the worse that can happen?"
I'm not saying it is a good excuse, but just the most likely one. Can't think of anything else remotely likely, it doesn't really weigh much and it isn't in the way while performing usual maintenance.
I don't know why people remove the side stand sensor, unless it is indeed broken. But I've bought two bikes, and both have had the sensor removed. I've had a couple butt-clenching moments because of that, but not recently.
At any rate, took the bike out to do some chores, and the little guy performed like a champ. Onto the next problem area: mirrors..
End of thread · 36 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 30 Apr 2014