Well for a 6th gen, that's right where you should be voltage wise, for a 5thgen that's better than average.
The wires should get warm but not hot enough to discolor or melt stuff, you cleaned the connector, but you can also mechanically tighten them and ohm through both sides. Some of these guys are experimenting with oxgard or deoxit, but I just use wd40, and on the vfr its all original wiring and connectors over 105,000 miles.
Dude just cut out the connection and direct solder it already....
Oh by the way, what stator and rr are you currently running?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There should be no connectivity between the stator wires and ground... It should be open load.
Dumb question, but I'll ask anyway... When you tested the resistance between the wires and ground, did you have the motor off and the connector uncoupled from the wiring harness?
If you're not getting open load, it would most certainly seem to indicate that the internals of the stator are faulted. Do you get this same reading on all three of the wires?
my rr runs cool.. A few simple mods including a home made vfrness, a relocation from the right to the left side of both the rr and the stator wires that go thru the middle of the block...I doubled up both the negatives and positives.. Basically the standard loom cannot cope with the rr's discharge and need dedicated earths...A few new charging lines complete the new line up.
As i said, my rr runs cool to the touch... almost...
If you get an FH020aa it WILL stay cool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CandyRedRC46Changing the the FH020 also means you get a ~10ga ground wire direct from RR to frame.If you get an FH020aa it WILL stay cool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello All,
Thanks for everyone's efforts in helping me out and sorry for not providing complete information. Please find my replies below:
CandyRedRC46If you get an FH020aa it WILL stay cool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I indeed have FH020AA, Shindengen
kgsmotorcyclesmy rr runs cool.. A few simple mods including a home made vfrness, a relocation from the right to the left side of both the rr and the stator wires that go thru the middle of the block...I doubled up both the negatives and positives.. Basically the standard loom cannot cope with the rr's discharge and need dedicated earths...A few new charging lines complete the new line up.
As i said, my rr runs cool to the touch... almost...
I have new R/R as mentioned above, and the Red/Black wires coming out from R/R going to battery and earth are the original ones, so effectively they are doubled up.
ember1205There should be no connectivity between the stator wires and ground... It should be open load.
Dumb question, but I'll ask anyway... When you tested the resistance between the wires and ground, did you have the motor off and the connector uncoupled from the wiring harness?
If you're not getting open load, it would most certainly seem to indicate that the internals of the stator are faulted. Do you get this same reading on all three of the wires?
Yes, I used to get OL ( open load ) I believe before, but my tests after installing new R/R, cleaing up the connector for 3 yellow wires is giving me 1ohm of resistance. The tests were carried without engine running and the connectors unplugged. I do get same reading for all 3 wires and engine case.
CandyRedRC46Dude just cut out the connection and direct solder it already....
Oh by the way, what stator and rr are you currently running?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am planning to cut out the wires, but instead of jumping to that step I wanted to make sure it is not Stator (which it seems it is now) so now if Stator is at fault, at least I only have to do hard wiring once with new stator wires I believe.
Stock stator I believe, unless previous owner has changed it, and Shindengen FH020AA R/R.
spud786Well for a 6th gen, that's right where you should be voltage wise, for a 5thgen that's better than average.
The wires should get warm but not hot enough to discolor or melt stuff, you cleaned the connector, but you can also mechanically tighten them and ohm through both sides. Some of these guys are experimenting with oxgard or deoxit, but I just use wd40, and on the vfr its all original wiring and connectors over 105,000 miles.
I did clean and tighten the connectors, so that doubt was completely removed. The wires and connectors haven't discoloured or melted yet, but it seems if I had not caught them, that would have happened soon.
=================
So I hope now you guys would have better idea of what is going on.
As I said my only worry is that I don't want to spend money on stator just to find out that the problem hasn't been solved though that is the last thing in the loop as I already have new battery and R/R in place.
Look forward to some intelligent input..
Thanks
GJ
Make sure you're testing properly...
Testing for continuity to ground is typically done with the motor off, as in this video.
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/5v2LtHlvcqI?feature=oembed]ember1205Make sure you're testing properly...
Testing for continuity to ground is typically done with the motor off, as in this video.
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/5v2LtHlvcqI?feature=oembed]
Hi, Thanks for the video, and I can confirm that I did it correctly.
Though I am going to do it all again before ordering new stator.
BRad704CandyRedRC46Changing the the FH020 also means you get a ~10ga ground wire direct from RR to frame.If you get an FH020aa it WILL stay cool.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you mean connecting a 10 guage wire from R/R mounting bolt to frame ??? Or something else ?
I've already connected a wire from mounting bolt to frame. But, still stator wires are getting too hot and very soft...
1 ohm through the connector on any wire is high, you should be able to get it down to like( .2 ohms max or zero is best). engine should be off while doing any ohms check.
spud7861 ohm through the connector on any wire is high, you should be able to get it down to like( .2 ohms max or zero is best). engine should be off while doing any ohms check.
:fing02:
spud7861 ohm through the connector on any wire is high, you should be able to get it down to like( .2 ohms max or zero is best). engine should be off while doing any ohms check.
I get 1 ohm when I run the test between connectors and engine cases. And not between the three yellow wires/connectors.
I get 0.5 ohms when I run the tests between A-B, B-C and C-A.
Hope this helps.
Connectivity to ground is BAD. Your 1ohm readings should be open load.
ember1205Connectivity to ground is BAD. Your 1ohm readings should be open load.
Thanks a lot, I completely agree, but does that one test out of all the tests for stator confirm that I need a new stator ??? Or is there other way to confirm that stator needs replacing before I start opening it all ???
My understanding is that all tests must PASS in order to be considered good. Anything else and it's a FAIL.
You're doing the ground test with the harness disconnected, right?
ember1205My understanding is that all tests must PASS in order to be considered good. Anything else and it's a FAIL.
You're doing the ground test with the harness disconnected, right?
Yes, indeed doing it with engine not running and stator to R/R harness disconnected.
gj6n68ember1205Connectivity to ground is BAD. Your 1ohm readings should be open load.
Thanks a lot, I completely agree, but does that one test out of all the tests for stator confirm that I need a new stator ??? Or is there other way to confirm that stator needs replacing before I start opening it all ???
Lets seperate the confusion. 1 ohm im talking about is putting a meter on both side of the yellow wire connector( connected), to measure through the connector for any resistance. 1 ohm on that is too high on any wire and needs to be fixed..
2nd, with yellow wire connector disconnected, and measuring each yellow wire to ground on stator side of the connector, there should be no continuity at all on your highest ohms scale, preferably Mega ohm.
spud786gj6n68ember1205Connectivity to ground is BAD. Your 1ohm readings should be open load.
Thanks a lot, I completely agree, but does that one test out of all the tests for stator confirm that I need a new stator ??? Or is there other way to confirm that stator needs replacing before I start opening it all ???
Lets seperate the confusion. 1 ohm im talking about is putting a meter on both side of the yellow wire connector( connected), to measure through the connector for any resistance. 1 ohm on that is too high on any wire and needs to be fixed..
2nd, with yellow wire connector disconnected, and measuring each yellow wire to ground on stator side of the connector, there should be no continuity at all on your highest ohms scale, preferably Mega ohm.
Thanks for that detailed explanation.
I've not done the tests to test the connector, meaning putting meter on both sides of yellow wires. I'll do that now.
I've done the 2nd one with connectors disconnected and measuring each yellow wire to ground, which gives 1ohm, so that is the one which indicates that stator is kaput.
And I got 0.5 ohms testing between 2 of the three terminals, which I believe is alright.
Yeah just go straight to the ground test, the rest are meaningless if you cant pass that one.
spud786Yeah just go straight to the ground test, the rest are meaningless if you cant pass that one.
Hi,
I am thinking of ordering a new Stator but was wondering if the wires would get hot because of the connectors being not in good conditions and/or also the fact that ground test is failing because one of the stator wires is touching the ground, i.e. not getting OL.
Sorry for dragging this too long.
All of the above ! ^^^^
Hi All,
Hope everyone had a good summer and safe riding. I've just been searching for jobs and now finally in position to order this part to be able to get the bike running for next summers.
I have a 1998 VFR800Fi.
1. Could someone help me choose a good stator ??
2. Should I order a Ricks unit?? Is there anything worry if I order this unit to go Shindingen Mosfet FHA020AA R/R?
3. Does it matter if I order Ricks unit from ebay, wiremybike or Ricks own website ?
Any other considerations to be kept in mind while order stator or installing it ?
Thanks in advance for your inputs.
gj
wiremybike is a valued member here on VFRD..........................
gj6n68Okay if you want to bullet proof your VFR, here is the recipe.Hi All,
Hope everyone had a good summer and safe riding. I've just been searching for jobs and now finally in position to order this part to be able to get the bike running for next summers.
I have a 1998 VFR800Fi.
1. Could someone help me choose a good stator ??
2. Should I order a Ricks unit?? Is there anything worry if I order this unit to go Shindingen Mosfet FHA020AA R/R?
3. Does it matter if I order Ricks unit from ebay, wiremybike or Ricks own website ?
Any other considerations to be kept in mind while order stator or installing it ?
Thanks in advance for your inputs.
gj
Factory stator from servicehonda.com
Fh020aa from roadster cycle.com
Get the rr kit with a fuse or ciruitbreaker and bolt onto the battery.
Direct solder the rr to the stator DO NOT USE THE PROVIDED CONNECTIONS as these always fail
VFRNESS from wiremybike.com
Install a water proof motorcycle specific volt meter to always monitor your voltage
^^^^ Agree with everything that CR says, except on a 5th gen, VFRness not needed.
OEM stator
FH020aa from www.Roadstercycle.com -- they have have the kits you need. The R/R is wired direct to the battery, taking the weak link out of the picture. -- Get the fuse part for the kit....
Do not use the OEM connectors to the stator.
- -I still like the metripack connectors for the stator, but you do have to have a high quality crimp tool to put it together. So most guys do the direct solder....