Replacement Horn

Anyone find a good solution for a replacement horn for the oem?  Honked at a dumbass today and nearly embarrassed myself with that "beep."

Post em up!

Makes you think of this guy, doesn't it?

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One of the guys on VFRW did this:

It's much much louder and bolts up easily.

12 bucks shipped on eBay.  It's 335 Hz and was an oem horn on certain Mercedes (see application list).

It's galvanized metal so it's not going to rust.

To mount it he used the strip of metal it came with and with another nut and bolt, bolted it to the honda metal strip.

Wiring is plug n play.

The first image shows the honda factory horn next to the new hella for size comparison.

[image: HellaMercedesHornreplacementpic_zps0f383]

[image: Mercedeshornreplacement_zps5921c35b.jpg]

Having repaired dents on quite a few Benz's in my day while at work, and having the factory alarm go off when you open the door without disarming the car, I can attest to the fact the horn on the Benz ML series SUV is FREAKIN LOUD.  

I went with an air horn on mine (the old trumpet style). One on each side of the tail section of the bike with an air hose attaching them. My GF has a Ear Cannon on hers (139db). Both are 5th gens though.

[image: yra2e8ag.jpg][image: amy2abup.jpg]

Just bought mine for $10--he accepted my offer.

I like that feature.

The Federal Signal Rumbler siren is the horn all of us should aspire to...

http://www.nytimes.c...n/27critic.html

http://www.publicsaf...com/ferusi.html

in my V-Strom i had installed a FIAMM 2 Trumpet air horn ($39.99) and its insanely loud as a semi-truck! absolutely useful in the city and commuting riding. but be prepared to carry a few extra fuses if u honk too long at that a**hole cager cutting u off while texting his friend :D

i know they have another mode compact model with the trumpets and the compressor integrated into one unit which would probably be whats needed for a VFR with the some-what limited space under the fairing. in the V-strom theres is tremendous space under the front fairing that i could fit everything without even needing to take any of the plastics off :D

http://www.fiamm.com...iera-horns.aspx

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2 FIAMMs

1 where the OEM meep meep used to be

1 in the lower fairing

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Thanks for all the replies! Now I'm on a mission!

One word...Stebel...
Bikerhiway.com..$35...very loud

Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

Here is my Stebel Nautilus install.   Its effin' loud.

http://www.vfrdiscus...found/?p=412793

Two... no, wait - THREE (3) things. Firstly, I beefed up the wires running to the horn from the BlueSeas fusebox. Then I added a Fiamm horn under each side of the front fairing (just enough room there on the '01). Lastly (or perhaps, firstly), I carefully tweaked the little screw on the top of the OEM horn to ensure it was as loud as it was capable of being. Total cost was (IIRC) about NZ$35, so five-eighths of not very much at all. Funny thing is, although I used it a fair bit when I first upgraded, to 'punish' errant motorists, I very rarely use it now. Must be getting old...

Believe or not, the air-horn is banned in Vietnam :)

 Now I'm on a mission!

[video: http://youtube.com/embed/-4YrCFz0Kfc?html5=1&fs=1]  :cool:

I'm considering upgrading the horn on my bike too (6th Gen) and I'm a little confused mostly due to lack of experience.

I'm pretty hopeless when it comes to my hands. I know electronics, but always scared I'm going to stuff something up when it comes to mounting brackets, etc. I really don't have much experience besides screw things off, replace, screw on.

I liked the idea of the Stebel Nautilus but it seems like it might be too involved for me - multiple things to mount, and I'm not sure about how difficult it would be to fit under the G6 fairing. (Given my inexperience with no mod history... I haven't even taken a fairing off my bike before).

The Fiamm looks good as a 'one piece unit', but does look bulky. Am I going to run into trouble mounting it as well? Would I be better going with something like the merc horn in the first post, but even then I saw that it was mounted in a differnent position to the OEM horn. I'm guessing this means that a custom bracket needed to be made, or additional drilling?

And if I need to go to that much effort, should I just go something better like the Fiamm or Stebel?

Stebel Nautilus Horn FTW!!!! 128db of train derailing goodness!!! I've used these on all my bikes. I managed a pretty slick installation on my VFR by separating the horn from the air compressor, placing them inside the right front faring and using tubing to reconnect the two.

Full write up on my VFR site here: http://bonemanvfr.com/Mods/stebel.html

Here's how it sounds! https://www.youtube....h?v=k8EXRVYNXzI

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Fiaam Highway Blaster, 2 ea. High and Low tone. Fabbed up a simple cross bar to attach both horns side by side and a main bar slight longer than the mounting bar for the OE horn to get the homrs positioned lower than the OE. MUST invest in a horn wiring harness to get the full effect. I'm a numpty when it comes to mechanical things and sparky things give me the wooblies but even I was able to hook it up. The sound is  AMAZING! Just like your Granddad's Buick.    

I'm considering upgrading the horn on my bike too (6th Gen) and I'm a little confused mostly due to lack of experience.
 
I'm pretty hopeless when it comes to my hands. I know electronics, but always scared I'm going to stuff something up when it comes to mounting brackets, etc. I really don't have much experience besides screw things off, replace, screw on.
 
I liked the idea of the Stebel Nautilus but it seems like it might be too involved for me - multiple things to mount, and I'm not sure about how difficult it would be to fit under the G6 fairing. (Given my inexperience with no mod history... I haven't even taken a fairing off my bike before).
 
The Fiamm looks good as a 'one piece unit', but does look bulky. Am I going to run into trouble mounting it as well? Would I be better going with something like the merc horn in the first post, but even then I saw that it was mounted in a differnent position to the OEM horn. I'm guessing this means that a custom bracket needed to be made, or additional drilling?
 
And if I need to go to that much effort, should I just go something better like the Fiamm or Stebel?

You don't have to go through all that air horn bull crap to get a loud horn, just look up that Hella horn swap on vfrw.

I put that horn on in about 30 mins and it's freakin loud. And it sounds like a really loud bike horn, not a freakin train or semi.

Hurts people's ears, and it looks stock as well.

An extended middle finger is cheaper and more effective. :-)

When a car is merging into your lane and about to run you off the road? Middle finger not effective. Stock horn is barely noticeable at highway speeds, much less a silent hand.

One of the guys on VFRW did this:

It's much much louder and bolts up easily.

12 bucks shipped on eBay.  It's 335 Hz and was an oem horn on certain Mercedes (see application list).

It's galvanized metal so it's not going to rust.

To mount it he used the strip of metal it came with and with another nut and bolt, bolted it to the honda metal strip.

Wiring is plug n play.

The first image shows the honda factory horn next to the new hella for size comparison.

[image: HellaMercedesHornreplacementpic_zps0f383]

[image: Mercedeshornreplacement_zps5921c35b.jpg]

Mine  sounds  like  crap .

For that price it may fit a Merc but will not be made in Germany I reckon...

Having repaired dents on quite a few Benz's in my day while at work, and having the factory alarm go off when you open the door without disarming the car, I can attest to the fact the horn on the Benz ML series SUV is FREAKIN LOUD.  

I thought I would try out the 12 buck Benz horn as an experiment, bolted it up and holy xxxx ! It is FREAKN Loud. Cheap and quick solution.....  I am going to replace the flimsy two piece stock bracket with a stiffer 1/8 inch steel bracket though..... 

It's a Hella horn and yes it's made in Germany... Unbelievable for $10...

http://www.vfrdiscus...ou-hear-me-now/

I just ordered one on ebay at the $11.50 Buy It Now price. For $11.50, it's worth a shot. Taping a duck to the front fairing would be better than the stock horn.

Yeah, I just got mine today, and the box says Hella, and the horn says "Made in Germany". It's dustier than heck, looks like it's been sitting in a warehouse somewhere for a couple years.

Having repaired dents on quite a few Benz's in my day while at work, and having the factory alarm go off when you open the door without disarming the car, I can attest to the fact the horn on the Benz ML series SUV is FREAKIN LOUD.

I thought I would try out the 12 buck Benz horn as an experiment, bolted it up and holy xxxx ! It is FREAKN Loud. Cheap and quick solution.....  I am going to replace the flimsy two piece stock bracket with a stiffer 1/8 inch steel bracket though.....

Just note that they made those mounting pieces thin and flexible as it helps the horn sound as loud as it can, cause it has to vibrate (attenuate). The whole science in designing a loud horn is kind of strange in a way as the slightest modifications on them can really affect their volume. Strangest thing I encountered was when I drilled a very small hole (less than an 1/8th inch) at the bottom of the plastic portions of one of my Fiamme snail type horns to make sure water does not collect in it during wet rides. Surprised when the volume of the horn was reduced by three quarters. Sealed up the tiny drain hole I drilled with bit of silicone and the volume came back to normal...... mounting some horns too rigidly can have similar negative effects

Good point about mounting.  Sometimes there really are reasons for weird things like those two-piece brackets.

That Merc / Hella horn sounds (no pun intended) like a nice deal.  The prettier looking ones usually sold in dissonant sets as "Supertones" are two to three times the price per disc.

I worry about TNRabbit's allegation of "plug and play wiring" though.

If this Hella is indeed anything like the Supertones, it probably draws two to three times the current of the stock horn.  It's the sort of thing that will work fine... for a little while!  If you're lucky you just blow a fuse.  A little less unlucky, the horn switch contacts get destroyed after several uses.  All the VFRs I've seen don't bother to use a horn relay and switch the current directly from the handlebar.

Good rule is that any horn that's loud enough to impress is going to draw enough current to require a relay.

Good rule is that any horn that's loud enough to impress is going to draw enough current to require a relay.

Not being fluent in electrical wizardry, is there a simple solution to protect the OEM components? Maybe an over the counter, standard type relay that we could add midway between the switch and the horn?

Good point on the current draw. I may have to stick a relay in there on that horn. Wish I knew how many amps it pulled. Guess I'll do a bit of checking before I mount it.

Your wish is my command. 

Stock 5th Gen VFR horn - 1.84A

Hella 335Hz horn - 4.5A 

The horn circuit is on the same circuit as the stop lights and the turn signals on the 5th Gen. The stoplights pull 3.41A. 

Stoplights + Stock Horn (likely usage scenario) =  5.07A

Stoplights + Hella Horn = 7.60 A

Add in the turn signals, which are a little harder to measure current because of the cycling and you have:

Stoplights + Turn signals + Stock horn = 9.55A

Stoplights + Turn signals + Hella Horn = 11.41A

All of this on a 10A fuse. These were all measured at around 13V, so running will change the values a bit.

Common wiring logic says loads should be fused 125% greater than what they draw, so I would expect not to see over 8A for the factory horn, stoplights, and turn signals, not the 9.55A I saw. 

With the combo of Hella horn, the stoplights, and the turn signals, a desireable fuse rating would be ~14.2A. 

So it boils down to this: Is it safe?

I'm going to say it's likely to be okay. The most likely usage scenario is horn + stoplights. In this case, the Hella horn and stoplights together pull almost 2A less than the factory horn, stoplights, and turn signals together. With the horn being a very temporary load, I think it should be fine. If you find yourself using the horn a lot while merging with your turn signals on, then I would recommend going with a relay. I rarely use my horn, and I plan on replacing my stock taillight with the Thurn LED which should reduce draw further. Anyone with better electrical knowledge feel free to contradict me and show me the error in my ways. 

RD

Good point on the current draw. I may have to stick a relay in there on that horn. Wish I knew how many amps it pulled. Guess I'll do a bit of checking before I mount it.

Your wish is my command. 

Stock 5th Gen VFR horn - 1.84A

Hella 335Hz horn - 4.5A 

The horn circuit is on the same circuit as the stop lights and the turn signals on the 5th Gen. The stoplights pull 3.41A. 

Stoplights + Stock Horn (likely usage scenario) =  5.07A

Stoplights + Hella Horn = 7.60 A

Add in the turn signals, which are a little harder to measure current because of the cycling and you have:

Stoplights + Turn signals + Stock horn = 9.55A

Stoplights + Turn signals + Hella Horn = 11.41A

All of this on a 10A fuse. These were all measured at around 13V, so running will change the values a bit.

Common wiring logic says loads should be fused 125% greater than what they draw, so I would expect not to see over 8A for the factory horn, stoplights, and turn signals, not the 9.55A I saw. 

With the combo of Hella horn, the stoplights, and the turn signals, a desireable fuse rating would be ~14.2A. 

So it boils down to this: Is it safe?

I'm going to say it's likely to be okay. The most likely usage scenario is horn + stoplights. In this case, the Hella horn and stoplights together pull almost 2A less than the factory horn, stoplights, and turn signals together. With the horn being a very temporary load, I think it should be fine. If you find yourself using the horn a lot while merging with your turn signals on, then I would recommend going with a relay. I rarely use my horn, and I plan on replacing my stock taillight with the Thurn LED which should reduce draw further. Anyone with better electrical knowledge feel free to contradict me and show me the error in my ways. 

RD

Your  dead  on  and  the easiest  solution  is  to install  LED's  bulbs.

Thanks for the info, that's great. I have the wire, relay, and fuse block, fuse block is already in use for other accessories, so I guess I will just run the horn off the relay through the fuse box. Looks like a 5A fuse will be good.

I got the horn mounted and it fits right in there. I figure to mount the relay right above it and run some 12 gauge wire from the fuse box to the relay and then to the horn, and back to the fuse box. Could just ground it near the horn, but as long as I'm doing it, might as well do it all. Then use the horn button to energize the relay. Should work like the business.  :beer:

LED bulbs sound kind of kewl though.

Thanks for the info, that's great. I have the wire, relay, and fuse block, fuse block is already in use for other accessories, so I guess I will just run the horn off the relay through the fuse box. Looks like a 5A fuse will be good.
 
I got the horn mounted and it fits right in there. I figure to mount the relay right above it and run some 12 gauge wire from the fuse box to the relay and then to the horn, and back to the fuse box. Could just ground it near the horn, but as long as I'm doing it, might as well do it all. Then use the horn button to energize the relay. Should work like the business.  [image: emoji481.png]
 
LED bulbs sound kind of kewl though.

I think I'd run a 7.5A fuse. With the horn pulling 4.5A , you need a bit of overhead.

Yeah, you're probably right, I'll have to see if I have any. I know I have 3, 5, 10, 20, and 30. Not sure about 7.5 though.

highly recommend going the LED route for brake & blinkers... easy upgrade that's much brighter (safer) than stock... the combined lower current draw may offset possible need for horn relay... http://www.vfrdiscus...ee-me-stopping/

fleabay brake... http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
blink blinks... http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
slightly off topic OSRAM headlight (not LED)... http://www.vfrdiscus...iffer/?hl=osram

Thanks to SCguy for the current draw recon work.

Switching to LED signal lamps helps with the overall circuit draw and gives the stock fuse the breathing room it may need, but that doesn't make up for the fact that you're pulling 2.5x the current through the horn switch and its wiring as it was designed for.  The losses in the stock wiring will be slight but enough to lessen the sound output from the horn.  Nothing in the wiring or the switch will melt but repeated switch actuations will over time cause pitting on the switch contacts and inevitably a failure will occur.  Hopefully that failure will not be at the very worst possible time.

A sound argument can be made that all switches will fail inevitably... but don't go tooting your hella too much or a little pitting will be the least of your worries...
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MarantzManiac, are those the right pages for the LED lamps? The one you have for brakes says it's for turn signals. I'm thinking I might go this route and want to get the right one the first time.

A sound argument can be made that all switches will fail inevitably... but don't go tooting your hella too much or a little pitting will be the least of your worries...

Sound argument.  LOL.  Ignore good advice at your own risk.  A horn switch isn't something you want failing unexpectedly and OEM switchgear already has enough challenges with weather exposure, etc.  Shifting the larger currents through the path of a relay means either the cheap and easy to find and replace relay will inevitably fail instead of your bike's expensive (and possibly difficult and/or lengthy to source) OEM switch.

Aftermarket horn kits come with relays for a good reason.  I think it's amusing when backyard engineers are convinced they know better.

Yeah, do it the lazy way.  It'll work.  Until it doesn't.  But it'll be more reliable AND louder if wired properly.

http://www.rattlebar...lay_basics.html

FJ12Ryder.... yup, they're the correct LED's for the 5th Gen...find someone with small hands for the backlights, it's a little tight and they are polarity specific but won't burn out if installed backwards.

RectalTronics... laugh a little buddy... if your going to toot your horn all day by all means install the relay... IMO, it's overkill for this application... and so long as we're blowing our horns, this backyard engineer has a BSEE.

Thanks for the info, and the heads-up about the backlights. You are talking brake lights, and not instrument back lights, right?

correct, brake lights, see complete thread....
http://www.vfrdiscus...ee-me-stopping/

A sound argument can be made that all switches will fail inevitably... but don't go tooting your hella too much or a little pitting will be the least of your worries...

Sound argument.  LOL.  Ignore good advice at your own risk.  A horn switch isn't something you want failing unexpectedly and OEM switchgear already has enough challenges with weather exposure, etc.  Shifting the larger currents through the path of a relay means either the cheap and easy to find and replace relay will inevitably fail instead of your bike's expensive (and possibly difficult and/or lengthy to source) OEM switch.

Aftermarket horn kits come with relays for a good reason.  I think it's amusing when backyard engineers are convinced they know better.

Yeah, do it the lazy way.  It'll work.  Until it doesn't.  But it'll be more reliable AND louder if wired properly.

http://www.rattlebar...lay_basics.html

For a single horn direct repalcement, unless it's an air horn, I would think you can run the new horn to the existing bake horn wiring, without any relays, without any problems, as the current/amp draw will not be sugnificatnly raise with the horns being discussed here. I've "Plug and Play" installed a Fiamme low tone snail horn to replace the dinky OEM many years ago on my 95, and zero porblems..... Now if I insalled dual Fiamme snail horns, I would have added in a relay then....

For grins, I did add a relay in the horn circuit. I found the fairing stay a good place to mount it. 

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[image: frontcowlwireclearance.jpg]

[image: Wiredfront.jpg]

The top red lead goes to the battery and has a fuse in line. pos side....

Light green and green are from the horn button. 

Lower red lead goes to the horn and ground lead goes to the other post on the horn. .

:cool:

RectalTronics... laugh a little buddy... if your going to toot your horn all day by all means install the relay... IMO, it's overkill for this application... and so long as we're blowing our horns, this backyard engineer has a BSEE.

Howdy neighbor.  Have you had a handy in designing any consumer products?  Remind me not to buy 'em.  ;-)

I have lots of respect for EEs.  It takes real mad skillz to find just the right cheapness of Chinese capacitors to allow an electronic device to last 10-20% beyond the length of its warranty.

On a serious note, I spend a portion of my day replacing or repairing shit that fails because some highly qualified engineer thought it would work fine long enough.  Some of the failures are sufficiently obscure to lend some benefit of doubt but others are disgraceful and repeatable from year to year of production runs.  Let's all try not to be That Guy especially when it's safety gear that we're wiring up.  Stock horn wiring will reduce the output of an aftermarket horn and OEM switchgear is not designed for those currents.  It may not take all that many make/break cycles to induce a failure and you don't want to find out you reached the limit when an SUV is changing lanes right into you.

For grins, I did add a relay in the horn circuit. I found the fairing stay a good place to mount it. 

[image: Relaymountleft.jpg]

[image: Cowltestfitforclearance.jpg]

[image: frontcowlwireclearance.jpg]

[image: Wiredfront.jpg]

The top red lead goes to the battery and has a fuse in line. pos side....

Light green and green are from the horn button. 

Lower red lead goes to the horn and ground lead goes to the other post on the horn. .

Mello dude. Where did you get the terminal ends that you used to hook up the relay.  I have a relay coming for my Hella horn and want to make everything as nice and neat looking as your setup.

Nick

:cool:

Why the 5 prong relay when a 4 will do?  Had it lying around?  :unsure:

Like you said, probably just had it laying around. I used a 4 prong on mine.

Why the 5 prong relay when a 4 will do?  Had it lying around?  :unsure:

Yup... I have a electric spare parts drawer in my tool box. Lotsa misc wire, terminals, wire, loose horns, new terminals, a few relays, heat shrink etc....- a handy junk drawer. I've have fixed plenty of electric stuff on bikes with the magic drawer.

-- I used the 5 pin, cause it had a bracket for mounting it. Drilled a hole in the fairing stay and used a 5mm bolt with a rubber piece for shock insulation. Turned out fine.

[image: Relaymountedright.jpg]

RC51Nick -- If you dont have a parts drawer, usually the auto parts store has electric terminal stuff that will fair ok for a horn job. Heat shrink it  up.....