Rapid Bike Install For 6Th Gen.. Ooh Goodies!

SOoo excited. Finally got the Rapid Bike Race module and harness. I'm putting it in today and will report back with some pics during progress. This post will be in extreme lay terms so those more technical and guru like may want to move on to something more stimulating..

Just arrived!

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Serious stuff.. cant wait to see what's inside!

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If there's any latest tips and tricks or hints for installation or first ride please let me know. I've already read through the 20 plus pages on the group buy and some of Yaman/Candy stuff but it's been awhile. So I'm off.

Ok.. here's what I got..

Other than this all else is complete.

1. How in the world do I get this module underneath the sub-frame under the backseat??

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2. I the original rubber boots don't really cover all of the connector's so I'm a little worried about that. I tucked em' in as best I could but am open to any suggestions here.

3. I don't have any manual that I know of to understand what to do regarding connecting a PC via USB or if I even want to do this before I go riding for 200 miles. I know there's a sheet in there as to how to get the software but the truth is I haven't read it all yet.

***************OK.. Here's a pic by pic of what went down. So far.....

1st 3 connections made at the right side of bike (orientation of sitting on to ride)

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2nd set of connection on left side of bike

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Cleaned up and Oxguarded 2nd set of connections

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Here are my best tips:

1. After connecting the connectors on the right side of the bike run all the wires underneath the back part of the gas tank. There are gas lines and other stuff running that same path.

2. Run the lines for the left side of the bike connectors behind the frame and behind the overflow coolant bottle on the left side of the bottle. They'll come out at the bottom.

3. Secure wires together with other cable already on the bike with zip ties.
4. After the second set of connectors are connected for sensor 1 & 2 the harness will continue to run to the rear of the bike out from underneath the left side of the back of the gas tank. It will continue on from there and this is where you connect the negative to the battery and connect the rest of the module to the end of the cable and secure the accessory cable plugs.

5. There will be a small baggie of connector plugs those will go in the accessory plugs that are left over should you not use them.

Other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks all!

Looking good, let us know how it goes on the road :)

Lots of wires , does it run yet?

Quick update:

I found an older post from Candy and saw how he put it under the right side of the seat.. under the rubber bandy deal. Works for me too..

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If you see the red zip ties, I ended up taking out the battery and running the Rapid harness under the sub-frame crossbar and to the other side and up. I also shoved all of the extra accessory plugs (for the Rapid) out to just inside the rear right side cowl (or whatever you call it). The other red zip tie secures the small ground wire going back to the battery. There were no direct positive connections to the battery.

I did end up Oxguarding all connections and using Dielectric grease on the outside of them to seal out the weather where a connector wouldn't fit inside a rubber boot.

spud786

Lots of wires , does it run yet?

Yes! I got it to run yesterday after everything was connected. No problems there thank goodness.

Mohawk

Looking good, let us know how it goes on the road :)

I got everything buttoned up and ready this afternoon. My first impression is that you can barely tell when VTEC kicks in at all outside of the VTEC noise change. WOW.. Smooth.. very smooth!! Of course as I understand it the Rapid Bike Race Module wont fully have the bike tuned until I ride the Viffer about 200 miles. Wouldn't you know as soon as I get down the road it starts raining and it is freezing cold. I'll go back out next week as soon as possible to take it the 200 miles and report back some additional info.

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying.

Congrats and have fun!

CandyRedRC46

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying.

Congrats and have fun!

Candy, in speaking to Yaman he says to not do anything until I get the 200 miles in. I will post as soon as I get in the miles. A little difficult in this weather and some time constraints but I can't wait!

Out of interest the Dimsport site instructions state 200kms (approx 120miles) !

Mohawk

Out of interest the Dimsport site instructions state 200kms (approx 120miles) !

Sure Mohawk.. I chalk this up to just wanting the unit to capture enough data or just being more careful of the unit being able to "see" everything. I did make this same calculation online as well and was all over just going the 124 miles but when Yaman suggested I go a full 200 miles AND when I read that you want to drive in traffic, freeway, twisties.. etc.. to allow the unit to get the full scope of the riders driving habits.. I got it. :wink:

One thing that I am looking into is using the Dimsport map switch, to turn off the my tuning bike during not optimal tuning conditions, like when the bike isn't in the optimal 175 degrees F- 195 degrees F range, and or sitting in traffic heat soaking, and or still warming up etc.... This would insure much more consistent data gathering and therefore more precise tuning. This isn't necessary, but I have a habit of going overboard for perfection.

Well the standard O2 sensors are NOT brought online until they are at operating temperature & this is displayed in the RB software. I assume it monitors the MTB in the same manner & thus only brings it into play when its ready !

badelman

CandyRedRC46

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying.

Congrats and have fun!

Candy, in speaking to Yaman he says to not do anything until I get the 200 miles in. I will post as soon as I get in the miles. A little difficult in this weather and some time constraints but I can't wait!

Here are the first screen shots before I made any changes and AFTER riding about 230-275 miles:

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What do you make of this?? Candy, (anyone else interested) if these are hard to see I can email them just PM me your email address.

CandyRedRC46

One thing that I am looking into is using the Dimsport map switch, to turn off the my tuning bike during not optimal tuning conditions, like when the bike isn't in the optimal 175 degrees F- 195 degrees F range, and or sitting in traffic heat soaking, and or still warming up etc.... This would insure much more consistent data gathering and therefore more precise tuning. This isn't necessary, but I have a habit of going overboard for perfection.

No not you?!! That does sound kinda cool. I'm interested to know if the module has a formula that takes any anomalies into account or if it's all taken into account.

Mohawk

Well the standard O2 sensors are NOT brought online until they are at operating temperature & this is displayed in the RB software. I assume it monitors the MTB in the same manner & thus only brings it into play when its ready !

Yaman, confirmed this today. BTW.. I ended up turning on engine braking and put it at 40% to start. How freakin' cool!