Vfrness And Stator Opinions Please

I have a question about the VFRness instal, and would like opinions on the state of this stator I just replaced.

According to the instructions the extra red wire goes to the starter relay. Just to make sure I have it right is this the wire (front right red wire)? (I do have the replacement plug kit) Not sure if I will just remove and replace the red wire or do a full replace of the starter relay plug with the replacement kit.. probably the latter.

[image: post-3161-0-39550400-1426232437.jpg]

Below is a picture of the stator I removed (on the left). It is the original stator and had over 50k miles on it. What is your opinion of it's condition? I replaced it with a Rick's stator of course.

[image: post-3161-0-43194500-1426232479.jpg]

Thanks for the feedback in advance!

no need to use the spare plug.

Take a small (jewellers)screwdriver and unhook/remove the one wire from the red plug and stick in the extra red.

Done!

(I simply left the wire I took out/put a little isolation tape at the end.

You oem stator looks fine, but unless you measured output/resistance when it was on the bike you never know for sure.

But if you go on a cost to cost trip, take it (+a spare gasket) with you for piece of mind.

speaking of piece of mind, tighten/give a dab of loctite to the small bolt that holds the seat latch mechanism to the subframe (at the rear, on top)

I'll take the old one.

I have been reading info from some other sites about stator's and one of the facts that kept coming up is the stator's that dont output as much power last longer, one EE at one of the site says the magnets(in the rotor) are too strong and causing too much heat .

Thanks for the comments, interesting theory on long lasting stators. I will hang on to the old one for an emergency spare. Hopefully the vfrness will fix the charging problem. Everything is new now in the charging system.

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Well, I have a problem. After replacing the stator and installing the vfrness, I have no power! Nothing, not even a clicking noise.

I not sure what I did wrong. I did install the new starter relay kit as well.

Have been checking all the connections but can't see anything wrong.

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sounds like somethings not hooked up...where are you at? Just go backwards and try to find what is not right, maybe the on off switch on the bar?? do you have lights? After you get her going and want better peace of mind is to upgrade the R/R to a 5th gen, I know that you just put the VFRNESS in... I did the same thing, then upgraded to the 5th gen vfrness after going through a couple of R/R's (one on a road trip in a tiny Wyoming town) then replaced the stator with a low mileage unit and have had no issues since..... good luck, I hope you find the culprit quickly

Take some pic's of your install so we can help.

A lot of times people install the wires wrong at the R\R .

Kill switch set properly? Or maybe a fuse?

Fuses checked kill switch checked. Will post pictures soon, the bike is not at my house

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Is the plug into the RR ALL THE WAY IN????

I also found that the plug from the stator into the VFRness would click in place but would not hold 100%.

(whiteplug next to 2 black plugs, RHS below the frame spar.

[image: post-8974-0-57789900-1426413718.jpg]

(I have since wrapped the wires in black tape)

So I put a narrow tie-wrap around the outside to keep the male/female plug well and truly together

Well, finally got the bike running. Had a mechanic out to check it out and he said the old red wire needed to be spliced into the new red wire. Once that was done she fired right up.

I thought the old red wire was just supposed to be taped off.

It's running now, will test it on a ride soon. Inspection is out, so need to get that done first.

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Disclaimer: I have the vfrness on my 4th gen RC36-2 for many many years. Maybe the wiring design has changed.

That said, I went outside and lifted the saddle. It is the red/white wire that is removed (and I taped over). Its slot taken by the beefier red wire from the VFRNESS

[image: post-8974-0-21546000-1427534025.jpg]

[image: post-8974-0-16647000-1427533989.jpg]

Hope this helps

Dutchy

Disclaimer: I have the vfrness on my 4th gen RC36-2 for many many years. Maybe the wiring design has changed.

That said, I went outside and lifted the saddle. It is the red/white wire that is removed (and I taped over). Its slot taken by the beefier red wire from the VFRNESS

[image: attachicon.gif]IMAG1248_1.jpg

[image: attachicon.gif]IMAG1247_1.jpg

Hope this helps

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http://www.wiremybike.com/installation-instructions-1990-1997-vfrness-instructions-p-658.html?osCsid=15638ee8bb07caf7ca1848faa5874ae2

Installation:

Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable.

If the Starter Relay connector is good, there is no need to use the included replacement 4 wire connector and 3 splice wires…save these for future need (common problem with this Gen VFR).

Simply use a jewelers screwdriver, or similar, to depress the locking tab on the existing Red/White wire, and remove it from the connector. Replace it with the Red 12 gauge wire in the VFRness.

Connect the Red terminal to the battery, routing the harness such that it reaches the R/R easily, and provides access to the Fuse if needed.

The fuse holder has a 20 amp fuse included, and a spare to replace the 30 amp installed in the OEM fuse holder. The harness is desgined to run under/in front of the battery, with the Starter Relay and Battery wires coming up in front of the center of the battery.

Connect the VFRness to the R/R, making sure each of the five wires remains in the plug and makes good contact…a bad contact here will cause the charging system to fail. This connector design is prone to the wires slipping out as the locking mechanism, triple check that each wire remained fully in place, especially the Red and Black wires.

On the installation we did, we did not discard the OEM plug and wires, but rather set them aside and protected it from the elements. Follow the original Stator Wire routing with the yellow wires, and connect to the Stator Plug.

Double check that all connections are correct, and test the charging system when complete. Remember to connect the negative terminal of the battery last, to avoid any possible short circuits.

Good luck!

Thanks for catching that Dutchy. Bike is wired correctly now and on a short test ride was showing 14 volts. Will do a longer ride this weekend hopefully.

I totally misread the red/white wire and got stuck on replacing the red wire with the new red wire.

Hopefully this will fix the charging problem

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Glad it was just that, go for that ride!

But then post some pictures of that ride!

:-)

Ok, took the HER to the horizons unlimited meet in Appomattox, Virginia. Getting as much as 14.7 volts now. She's gone about 500 miles with no charging issues, so that issue is fixed! Thanks for all the help!

There is one possibly connected new issue however. After riding for over 200 miles, it is now blowing the 10 amp fuse repeatedly for the turn signals and horn.

The only thing we can think might have something to do with it is, accelerating hard on a long straightaway. It might not be related but it happened soon after that if not during the acceleration.

Bike is holding a charge fine now, just can't keep horn and turn signals.

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Are the turn signal and horn wires correctly routed? I believe they should be in front of the left front fork. If they are routed behind, the might get jamned at sharp left turns abd get damaged.

Dutchy

Are the turn signal and horn wires correctly routed? I believe they should be in front of the left front fork. If they are routed behind, the might get jamned at sharp left turns abd get damaged.

Will check this out, thanks! Future son in law is riding the VFR now. I'll have him check. I know we didn't move them, but something may have happened with them on the trip.

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Some pictures to illustrate...

By the way, someone knows what is the reason for burning de plug?

[image: post-29153-0-23999700-1434507592.jpg]

[image: post-29153-0-28878700-1434507639.jpg]

[image: post-29153-0-59149900-1434507669.jpg]

Corrosion in the connectors - causes resistance which causes heat which leads to more corrosion, which causes more resistance . . .

Try some Oxgard on the new components - goes a long way toward keeping corrosion at bay and electrons flowing.

[image: 51t5-zAnMAL._SY300_.jpg]

Fwiw, those blue plugs are not factory so someone had been "at it" previously. If they then did not clean/crimp the wire(s) well, it might have "helped" building up resistance.

There is a 30 amp fuse in the starter solenoid as well as the one attached to the battery housing....

I installed the VFRness yesterday on my 1997 VFR and when finished, I was getting charging output readings between 18.5 - 19.0 v (@ 5000 rpm, w/ highbeam on). The bike already has a Ricks stator installed but I'm not sure of the aftermarket R/R's status. The Shop Manual states the readings should be between 13.5 - 16.0v.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

That is WAY too much....

Park the bike immediately. Voltage is way too high. You need an R/R minimum, but I would check the stator AC voltage on each leg too. (A to B, B to C, and C to A)

BTW - 16 volts is too high too.

100% agreed with mello dude there.

You should never see above 15v while charging. A high voltage situation is usually a faulty regulator (as mentioned), but 100% do your stator checks. Check AC voltage between the legs, as well as continuity to ground (you should have none).

7 hours ago, mello dude

Park the bike immediately. Voltage is way too high. You need an R/R minimum, but I would check the stator AC voltage on each leg too. (A to B, B to C, and C to A)

BTW - 16 volts is too high too.

I thought that was too high. I didn't park it today (way too nice out), but I did get that rotten egg smell of an overcharged battery when I got home. 

The R/R needs to be replaced. Any suggestions? 

MOSFET based unit is a must now days. This is a nice kit: http://roadstercycle.com/

[image: IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.95c93c31437b9eee2d85e]



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2016 at 4:56 PM, bobbyn, September 25

Any R/R suggestions?

thtanner, 9/25/2016 at 2:11 PM

MOSFET based unit is a must now days. This is a nice kit: http://roadstercycle.com/

16 hours ago, thtanner

thtanner, 9/25/2016 at 5:11 PM

MOSFET based unit is a must now days. This is a nice kit: http://roadstercycle.com/

This web site confuses me even more. I'm looking for plug-in play.

Then you will not find a quality unit. The only MOSFET based plug and play option is a Ricks Hotshot Rectifier, which people have reported failing after 30-40k miles (not much of an improvement, if any).

It's very easy to install the kit, and it's pretty much the defacto replacement.

Kit to buy: The Super Mosfet Kit FH020AA - there are other options there but I personally prefer the FH units over the SH ones. 

How to install: http://www.roadstercycle.com/Easy Mosfet Install.htm

I've settled on putting my FP's massive SH847 under the rear tail unit.  Not so much because it necessarily requires the airflow, but because there's nowhere else it will fit!

[image: 20160926_085307x.jpg]

Ciao,

I bought an R/R from RMStator. Meter reads 14.2 volts @ 5k rpm. 

Sweet.

JZH Great job--


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Has anybody actually fitted a SH847 in the stocker 5th gen spot? I made up a wood block to size 4 3/4  x 4 3/4  x 1 1/2 inches to check it out. Huge. Its looking like a no go....

:beer:

This  MOSFET device looks like it requires major rearranging of seats, systems, maybe even adding a tail rack just to install it. Not my idea of a day well spent in the garage.

27 minutes ago, bobbyn

This  MOSFET device looks like it requires major rearranging of seats, systems, maybe even adding a tail rack just to install it. Not my idea of a day well spent in the garage.

That is a SH device pictured, which is a Shunt style, not MOSFET. I suggested the FH020AA, which is smaller, and MOSFET based.

[image: FH012AA_Dimensions.gif]

Glad you're back on the road; hope your direct replacement lasts longer than others have reported. Worst case, you know for next time.

Look at pat #30--- that was the only logical place to mount mine since I'll never remove my top box
FYI


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To clarify on the R/Rs both the FH012AA and FH020AA are both MOSFET  R/Rs --- the other we are referring to the SH847 and SH775 are series style R/Rs, with the 847 being a new model at 50amps and kinda large. 

The FH020 AA is near OEM size and with fit in most stock locations. Plenty of guys have used this one and it is reliable. 

15 hours ago, bobbyn

This  MOSFET device looks like it requires major rearranging of seats, systems, maybe even adding a tail rack just to install it. Not my idea of a day well spent in the garage.

Better a day spent in the garage than on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck! I was almost stranded the day my Stator/RR failure. To add insult to injury, the two main motorcycle tow services were either too busy or not is service that day. What started out as a lunch with some friends turned into a whole day of running back and forth to the Honda dealer to get a new battery to at least get me going. 

...and then the battery burst into flames... I'd rather spend a day in the garage then have my balls blown off and then crash and burn into a smouldering heap.

There's a jocular tone to my statement but it's simultaneously deadly serious. Rotten eggs to fried eggs, a poofteenth away...

1 hour ago, Auspanglish

I'd rather spend a day in the garage then have my balls blown off and then crash and burn into a smouldering heap.

Really?! I thought it was better to go out in a blaze of glory.