97 VFR
Would really appreciate help on this.
Dash was acting up, indicator/dash lights not working.
Open up and see i have a broken trace. Location is arrowed in picture.
The trace was broken and confirmed with multi meter.
I thought that was the problem.
Tried fixing with a circuit writer pen. After i traced the gap it tested well for continuity.
Put power to it and melted the trace (circuit writer repair).
Bike was knocked down a few years back. Looking at picture the right fastener bolt (to frame mount) was repaired as it was busted. PCB was stretched a bit there but still showed continuity.
Only electric mod is VFRness
Green connector:
The burned trace is coming from B/Br.
List below is readings from connector at PCB
B/Br - 12v
R/G - 12v
L/B -0v
Y/B - 0v
B/Br- 12v
O - 0v
G/B - 0v
P - 0v
Y/G - 0v
G - 0v
Blue connector @PCB
G/L - 0V
G/B- 0V
BR/B -0V
B/BR - 12V
Gr/B - 0v
SB-0V
LIGHT BLUE/R - 0V
BR/B - 0V
L/R - 0V
BR/W - 12V
Attached Images
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[image: vfr-pcb127.jpg]
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[image: trace pen128.jpg]
Since I happen to have the IP out of my '97 at this time:
I disagree that this trace is the B/Br; on my bike this trace goes to the G or green wire in the green connector, which is frame/battery negative, ground. (Using the online Service Manual and the wiring diagram). This trace goes to tach and clock and the illumintation bulbs in the IP. Likely either the clock or the tach is drawing too much current, doubt it it one of the light bulbs, and caused the open circuit in the flex circuit board
Problem is finding out which one without opening the repair again. You could repair the trace again and then remove the two screws that make the ground connection for the tach and clock, re-apply power and replace one of the screws to see if the repair opens again....not very good for the flex circuit, but would tell you if clock or tach is the problem. Really need to put a small fuse as the "repair" so that it can open without doing any further damage to the flex circuit.
Or you could apply a fused 12V source across the clock terminals and then the tach to see which one blows the fuse. Need a pretty small fuse rating, like 30-50 mA, so that it blows quickly. Really small gauge wire works too.
Let me know how I can help. I am waiting for parts for my '97 so I have little to do.
Thanks!
The tac works fine but the clock was giving me problems when the dash started to act strange.
I'll start with the clock.
Why would the clock or tac draw more current then needed on the circuit board?
What your saying is instead of drawing in the trace, I should solder a lead in with a low amp fuse.
If it is the clock, I wonder if I should cut the trace to clock and alternate a trace
solider the trace!!!
just shave the coating off the face and QUICKLY add solider a jump wire to each side.
cronos: either the clock board or the tach has failed and is drawing more current than the trace can handle...as in a dead short.
The fuse would only be needed to determine if it is the clock or the tach that is causing the problem. Once the failed item is replaced, the fuse would not be needed. The fuse idea was to protect any further damage to the flex circuit.
Very easy to remove power from the clock, just remove the three screws that connect the flex to the clock circuit board. I had a picture but seem to have deleted it.....check out my posting, voltmeter prototype and in that posting is a picture that shows the three screws that provide power to the clock board. They are at the top center of the instrument panel.
The tach uses two screws at the bottom center for power and ground.
To be on the safe side remove the four illumination light bulbs. Test each light bulb with a 9V battery, polarity does not matter to a light bulb.
Once determined what the failed item is, then repair flex with either soldering wire across the open or using your trace pen. I would use the wire and solder method, but only because I have never used the pen.