Died

Hi all, not sure what's going on, few weeks ago bike just died, would not turn over, nothing, went to look at it 2 days later started first time as if nothing was wrong, checked the battery and it's only pushing 11.8 so know that need replacing but any ideas as to why it should just die, not restart, as far as I'm aware the 93, FP's did not have an immob?

Hi all, not sure what's going on, few weeks ago bike just died, would not turn over, nothing, went to look at it 2 days later started first time as if nothing was wrong, checked the battery and it's only pushing 11.8 so know that need replacing but any ideas as to why it should just die, not restart, as far as I'm aware the 93, FP's did not have an immob?

Check all your wiring harnesses .... I'll bet you find one that's crispy.

Start at the stator and work your way to the R/R .. then from the R/R to the battery. Also check the wires from the battery to the main fuse to the relay.

Welcome. IATB (It's Always The Battery). Or the battery connections. Or the ignition switch. Charge the battery and start it up. Then wiggle the key around a lot and see if the engine falters. If not, you're switch is probably OK. Now buy a battery. You need one anyway, so don't wait. Clean up your connections (on the solenoid, too)  while your changing the battery. Should be OK then.

Cheers,

Glenn

So I am searching for any relevant information on your bike in post. I am assuming you have a 1993 vfr750 right? "The battery showed 11.8 volts", was that with the key off, engine off, engine idling or at 5000 rpms? 

Your battery should be at around 12.5 volt with key and engine off.

13.75-14.25 volts at idle

and 14.0-14.50 volts at 5000 rpms

Test this out and get back to us with some useful information.

These are loose guidelines. It sounds like your battery is fine, but it is not charging very well for one reason or another.

You need to pull the fairing off and look for loose, dirty and or burnt connections.

The connection between the rr and stator likes to burn up.

Check that the battery terminals are tight.

Do a stator test...

5 second google search ;)

"Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Fix first!

Then - Go through this starting point quick list.  You will need a multimeter too.

Steps:

1. Recharge battery over night - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

2. With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

3. These are R/R quick checks - with voltmeter at battery get voltages

   1. idle volts should be 13’s (If in the 12’s at idle, try at 1900 rpm)

   2. 5000 rpm should be 14’s

- Check stator

1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s  the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.  (Engine off)

2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.  --   3 separate checks. (Engine off)

3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more.  Again – 3 readings

4. Repeat hot.

This quick list will only catch the obvious stuff. If you need to dig deeper consult the forum."

I believe those are Mellodude's notes

And  if it is the stator  sorry  and  good luck. Look  for someone to rewind it.

AND WELCOME  !! 

Never heard of a stator going on a 3rd gen! fifth gens yes!

More likely to be a duff R/R that has fegered the battery

I believe the #1 cause of stator failure is the all-too-common melting of the 3-wire plug to the r/r.  If any two wires touch while bike is running, that kills a stator.