Powder Coating

HI guys and gals

A few questions on powder coating:

For coating of frame and swingarm, what needs to be protected from the coating and what's the best way to do it?

I'm thinking that threads and bearing surfaces are the obvious things, but there may be others?

If I want to keep the elf pro-arm plate on the swing arm, what's the best way of keeping that un-coated?

For the headstock bearings I was going to just leave the outer races in place and then knock them out post-powder coat.  Maybe do the same with the swing arm bearings?

For the threaded stuff, what's easiest? Find suitable bolts to screw in place and leave?  Or maybe there's some flexible compound that could be squeezed into the bolt holes and removed afterwards?

What about the big hole in the SSSA that the rear is installed into?  Is there enough slack in that not to worry about the thickness of coating?

I also presume that if I want to drill a brake hose hole in the rear swing arm (as others have done), I should do it before the powder coating?  Slightly off topic, but what diameter have others used for this hole?

TIA

Malcolm

Everything will need to be removed from the frame and swingarm. They will need to bead blast, sand blast, or etch, clean and rinse the parts in order to get good adhesion. Then they usually pre-bake them to burn off anything else and help off-gas the metals.

You will need to protect any close-tolerance mounting surfaces, like the bearing bores, and threads. If you're taking it to a shop, they will have silicone plugs for all the holes.

If you don't want the elf plate painted, I would take it off if possible, otherwise they will have special tape for masking it. If the plate is mounted with glue or double-sided tape, I would try to get it off - it will most likely come loose and ruin the area below, as gravity will draw it down when the heat is turned up.

I would remove the outer races out as you will most likely chip the powdercoat when removing them afterward - have them mask the bores!

All bearings must be removed, as the grease will liquefy and ruin the powder paint job.

Threaded holes, use silicone plugs - do not put a screw in there.....the powder will wick onto the screw and again will chip/crack upon removal.

They can mask the rear (large) hole, I don't know how much slack there is, but don't paint it.

Yes, drill and de-burr hole prior to powdercoating.

We do industrial powder coating at our shop and while I do not personally do the work, I manage the guys and to some extent the process. We have done a few frame for my bosses friends and found out the grease issue the hard way. He also says "Everyone is your friend when they find out you do powdercoating".......that's why we only do industrial parts now...........

BTW if you are doing it yourself, we get or silicone plugs from Caplugs

I hope this helps you out...........

Thanks RC1237V - very useful indeed.  Might post photos up once we've been through the process...

I just did my swing arm on my 6 gen. that elf label comes right off, it is thin metal held on with double sided tape. get under it with scraper.

I knocked out all bearings and taped the holes. I think there would be room for the bearing carrier if you left it, but I taped it up and I would recommend to tap it. use a high temp tape

Thanks 3D cycle - I'll see if I can get that elf sticker off as you describe.

Did you have any trouble removing the LHS pivot bearing from the swingarm? Probably a different design to the one in my 4th gen, but it's a bit of a bitch to remove (all others removed without drama).

Had the same problem on my NC30 i am stripping down. Best way is to soak it for a couple of days and then get a good rattle gun on it.

is your LHS bearing the needle bearing.. I just did this last night and already cant remember lol. the needle bearing on mine did go hard, I used the biggest possible socket I could with a long ass extension and drove it from right hand side.. did the same for the other side as well. also use a small propane torch to heat the swing arm. does not take much heat there. 

just looked up the parts on this. yes its a needle bearing same part # as my 6 gen in fact.

 use a socket a 17 mm fits in the swing arm perfect and gets a nice centered hit on the bearing.

heat, lube, hit, hit, hit, hit, hit, hit, repeat 

use a press if you can, or a big hammer if you have too

Hi 3dcycle - I think maybe the type of installation on the 4th gen is different.  There's a cast collar that the roller bearing seats against... this collar has 4no. semi-circular recesses cut into it, but not enough to get a decent purchase on with a punch.  Def no way you would get a socket onto it.  I've used the socket method in the past... actually used it yesterday to press the sprocket carrier bearing out using my vice.  I am going to try a blind hole bearing puller, as recommended by someone else on here recently...

The elf plate must come off, it's glued. Did my frame and swing arm. Agree with previously mentioned, all bearings and races removed. The swingarm needle bearing was a bear to get out for me, did not have proper tool. Ended up cutting out with titanium tip dremmel bit. Post pics please. Mine is still a rolling chasis. Will update my project when I get back to it.