Rapid Bike Racing Setup (6Th Gen)

Hey guys.

So I bought the RB Racing unit in the original group buy and then life got in the way. During the summer I would always rather ride than tinker and during the winter my bike was always stored far away. But finally this winter I had a garage and some time so all the uninstalled mods were done. Yeah :)

I know, shame on me for waiting this long as the install was super easy except reinstalling the damn o2 sensors (I had a PC3). Finally buying the proper tool for the job made that quite simple though.

Sooo anyways. I have been reading all the threads concerning the module (thanks CandyRedRC46 by the way for all your input on it!) and thought it might be nice to summarize a little and confirm a few settings. I of course understand the autotune takes care of a lot of things and preferences vary but I want to maximize what the module gives me. I don't have the YouTune add-on by the way.

Here is what I found as a good base after the initial 200km:

- Use premium gas

- Switch engine braking to ON and set it to 40%

- Set the minimum RPM tuning to 3400 rpm

- Set the maximum allowed % change to 5%

Since some of you guys have been tinkering with the system, is this all still good?

Oh and for the life of me I can't seem to find any sort of instructions on how to use the software. Does anything exist or is it more of a learn as you go type of deal?

Thanks in advance!!

There is a manual in PDF format installed on your PC in your Documents folder.

I think it is in another folder called RapidBike or DimSport. something like that. But it is in your local user profile structure.

Further to my post above, the following is a screenshot of where the manual PDF is located.

This is in a Windows 8.1 PC

[image: post-25941-0-09393700-1457940169.jpg]

Of course, the username in the path will be different.

Hope this helps.

Phil

I hadn't seen that but yeah, it's there.

Thanks!

Good to see that you finally got around to installing the Rapid Bike Racing module.

Quick question, are you using the two factory o2 sensors still or did you go with the "My tuning bike" wide band o2 sensor add on? If you are using 2 o2 sensors. a few things first, before you get too far into tuning, just double check that your o2 sensors are paired correctly by adding 5% fuel at idle, on one pair of cyliders and make sure you see a corresponding drop in the afr of those cylinders. Then try again for the other pair just to double check. Once you are positive that the o2 sensors are indeed paired correctly, set the idle fueling back to 0% again. If you are running one wide band o2 sensor with the My Tuning bike don't worry about everything that I just said.

You are going to have a lot of fun with the Youtune module, it is really cool to see how everything really works via the AFR readout. You can see exactly how the Engine brake control feature works, by eliminating the factory fuel cut.

When you turn off the engine brake control, anytime you roll off the throttle in 4th, 5th and 6th gear, the AFR will go red past 18:1, but when you activate the engine brake control, you can tune the over run fueling in 4th, 5th and 6th gear to be 10:1 through 15:1. I aimed for 14:1, but it is going to vary a little based on gear and rpm etc....

I didn't really care for the traction control so I turned it of, but the launch control feature was amazing and the engine brake control really smoothed out the on/off throttle transition.

How are you liking the mid range bump in torque from the added ignition timing advance???

Thanks for the reply!

I actually don't have the Youtune add-on (not yet at least...but it's tempting) and am using the OEM O2 sensors. I'm fairly certain everything is hooked up correctly but will give what you suggested a go.

I have unfortunately not yet tested the system as winter is not quite done in the great white north. Riding does become legal once again as of March 16th (date at which vehicles are no longer required to have winter tires) but the streets are dirty as hell and filled with tiny rocks the city spreads during the winter for added traction. So it may be a few weeks before I can properly test it out. I couldn't resist going for a tiny conservative ride around the block yesterday after buttoning everything back up just to make sure everything worked, there were no FI lights, etc but that's it.

I've always run 87 in the bike so I'll finish up this tank and then switch to premium. Man I can't wait to really let her rip!

As for the original question, are those still the settings (engine braking, etc) you would recommend?

:fing02:

I would not give the bike any throttle whatsoever until the tank is flushed of all 87 octane and its full of premium. I have run 91 and 92 and it was fine, but I would stick to 93 if you can.

I would not mess with the engine brake control until you get the Youtune on, as that is the only way to really tell what you're doing.

Definitely go ahead and double check the o2 sensors now, before you start racking up miles, as its easy enough to check with the bike idling on the side stand and your laptop plugged in.

You do not want to put miles on the bike with the o2 sensors crossed up as it will start tuning against itself. (though more than likely you plugged them in correct, you just want to be sure).

Before accepting any tuning changes, you should go a a long ride with plenty of high speed upper gear pulls and lots of throttle position and rpm varying.

What are your mods to the bike? In all reality if its just basic stuff, the Rapid bike supplied map and the 5% adjustment map will be fine with out you ever really needing to make any changes.

Crap. I get what you are saying and will drain if necessary but just for fun...

I currently have 2 bars of 87 gas left and would of course rather not have to drain the gas (ie spill gas, make a mess, swear, etc hahaha). We pretty much only have 91 here in Quebec apart from some very rare places that sell 94 so it would be 91 going in most of the time. Filling it up with 91 would come out to maybe a 90 end result with the mixed in 87 right? Would that be acceptable? I would then run 91 for a few tanks to lessen the effect of the original tank before connecting it to my PC and applying the map.

Or (and maybe this is a stupid question but just wondering) by any chance would simply removing the actual module (box) and leaving all the wiring in place and connected work in order to run the 87 gas with the normal ECU mapping like if the RB was not installed at all? Without the module to bypass/overtake the bike's normal ECU, would it hinder in any way the normal operation of the bike?

As for relevant mods I have a Leo Vince slip on with the normal headers, pair and flapper mod and a K&N filter, nothing too drastic.

Thanks!

**update**

I've found a place not too far away that has 94 so I would actually be able to mix the 2 bars of 87 with 94 if that is a viable option to draining the 87.

http://rapidbike.us/products/adoribypassadapter

If you want to leave the wiring in, but remove the racing module, you have to use this bypass.

As far as the mapping is concerned, I am pretty sure that it was shipped with a rapid bike base map. What I was saying about making changes to the mapping, would be making changes on top of the Rapid bike base map, but since you have basic/normal mods, I wouldn't bother updating the rapid bike base map at all. Just keep it set to only allow 5% changes and the rapid bike will allow the closed lope tuning to occur on top of the base map in real time, due to what ever the current atmospheric conditions are.

I have used 91 octane before and it ran fine, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Ok cool. Well I will use 94 when possible and 91 otherwise from now on. 93 does not exist in Canada.

Thanks!

I just talked to Yaman at Cycle Pro to confirm what I was telling you and yes the Rapid Bike Racing/Evo modules were already fully programmed before being shipped out.

So Just double check the o2 sensors and ride it for a while and then put on the youtune.

After you put on the Youtune display you will be able to see your riding AFR's.

I would ride it for a month and then take a look at the secondary map that the Rapid Bike is creating on top of the base map, take a screen shot of it and post it on here so me and Phil (highsidenz) can take a look at it.

Excellent, thanks for that.

I highly doubt that I will be getting the Youtune unit any time soon though. With the current ridiculous exchange rate (more or less the US price + 40%) it's hard to justify it. I'll double check the sensors, ride with as high octane as I can for a while and get back to you guys :)

And just to confirm, you do not recommend changing the engine braking settings at all without having the Youtune? It seemed like a neat feature.

You're welcome! Sounds like you have a great plan.

Oh I thought that you already had the Youtune.

I will plug my lap top into my bike and see what the settings are at. I do remember having to put the Engine braking somewhere in the middle, as not enough had me in the border line 18:1 range and too much had me in the 10:1 range on the over run. I was aiming for 13-14:1 on the overrun. That way you would have a reduced engine braking effect, which really smooths out the on/off throttle transition while leaned over far in high speed 4th gear turns. I would see anything richer than 13:1 on over run as being a waste of fuel and as you get into the 10s you would probably start running the risk of washing oil off your cylinders and contaminating your oil.

So I had a little time today and decided to make sure the o2 sensors were set up correctly.

Now please keep in mind I have no clue what I am doing here as I have never played around with these modules but I want to learn :goofy: I'm certain this will also be useful for the next person who is tackling all of this for the first time.

I've read everything I could find, tried finding online tutorials, etc but I simply do not see how I can modify the fueling on one pair of cylinders. I don't want to really modify stuff I'm not familiar with but here is what it currently looks like. I only see one map that has the ignition and injection tabs. Should it be set to one map as it was when I started everything up or should this be changed to show 2 maps on the page pictured below (and if so, it would be the 1-2 // 3-4 option I imagine)? From the screenshots in the various threads people seem to have what I have (one map) except when CandyRedRC46 got his Youtune and his 4 sensors and after that I see he has screenshots with 4 maps, one for each cylinder.

[image: maps page]

[image: RB features page]

So once this has been resolved, I would also just like to confirm how to actually change the "5% at idle". From what I understand, the columns (0%, 5%, 10%, 20%, etc) are the % of throttle like with the PowerCommander software. So adding 5% at idle would be done by entering "5" in the box at the intersection of 1600rpm (applies to 0-1600rpm, so idle) and 0% throttle. Is that correct? I also do not see an apply button on that page so would it be done by pressing send map (ie sending the change to the bike)? I assume I would then see on the Status page that the 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 cylinders have changed readings.

And final question (for now hahahaha), am I correct in understanding that in the ignition tab the numbers correspond to a variation of degrees in the timing?

Thanks so much for the help!

Bump :)

It looks like you are correct on most of your assumptions. I never had the Rapid Bike plugged into the factory o2 sensors, so I am not sure if the only way to get individual cylinder mapping is while using the optional wide band o2 sensors (my tuning bike). I had 4 wide bands from the start, so I had to be certain that they were ordered correctly, this is probably not a concern for you and I would leave the cylinder configuration settings as they are. I will ask Yaman if you have individual mapping capabilities while still using the factory o2 sensors. You are correct that adding 5 in a fuel cell will add 5% fuel in that area and that the ignition is in degrees. The idle will be affected by editing the 1000 rpm x 0% throttle or 1600 rpm x 0% throttle cell, just depending on what your exact idle speed is.

So we are almost starting to see the end of winter here and with relatively dry roads and a temperature a little above freezing I decided to go for a ride yesterday.

Holy crap! This thing has completely changed the bike. Everything is so smooth it's ridiculous. You know how smooth acceleration is before the motor is hot enough to activate the vtec, well it's like that even when the vtec kicks in now. The vtec does give it extra oumpf but there is no more dip in power before it kicks in and no more jerk as it kicks in.

Wow. I am incredibly pleased with this product. It does what I always expected the PowerCommander should do but was never able to do. Expensive but so worth it!

That is awesome news! I am really happy that it is working out for you. How is the added lowend torque?

Hey all.

So I am almost done with this insane semester at school and finally have a bit of time to work on the bike. I have been using it around town pretty much every day but for short rides as it is not doing too good ufortunately. The bike has been having trouble starting (enough so that I have been charging it every couple of days). It is also very unsmooth when trying to keep it at a constant speed but no problems with acceleration. This has all been happening in colder and warmer weather.

The whole bucking and hard start thing felt familiar to when I had issues with the regulator and stator so that got me thinking it was the battery or the charging system. They do seem to check out ok though:

- battery at full charge: 13.03v

- idle: 14.18v (or 14.35v with the high beams on)

- 5000 rpm: 14.45v (or 14.29v with the high beams on)

- leakage test: 1.95 mA

- beefed up main fuse looks good, fuse on the VFRness looks good, all wires look good, regulator and stator had been replaced and wires beefed up

Could this all be potentially caused by the RapidBike unit? It's now been about 800km (about 500 miles) and I have not made any adjustments. Here is what I have:

[image: rb1.png][image: rb2.png]

Any other ideas are of course welcome.

Thanks!

Bump :)

Bike is still behaving quite badly. Enough so that it died this morning after running a few minutes. Started back up but it would die again if no gas was given. I let it sit a few minutes and then it started back up.

I'll pull the RB unit from the bike to see if that makes any difference but would still love to get any insight from you guys.

Thanks!

Remember during the install, it was said to set the max lean and enrichment trim to 5% and min rpm at 3400? You are showing 15% and 2000....

Please reset the fuel map. (reset maps button on the auto adaptivity tab)

Set the Start correction to 3400.

Set the max enrichment trims to 5 and -5.

And try again.

Also just to confirm, you have not clicked "APPLY" before right?

You should have no need to click apply unless you have extensive modifications.

As far as the hard starting, does it seem more like your battery is losing juice when sitting, or more like a fueling/ignition issue? (I am wondering why your idle voltage goes up when you turn on your high beams, that's kind of weird...)
There should be no changes in any map cells that would effect the starting and idle. (In base map nor auto adaptivity map)

Your auto adaptivity map should have all zeros in the 0% column and all rows from 1600 - 3100 rpms, for some reason, your auto adaptivity is making changes in 1600-3100 rpms, keep an eye on this after resetting the auto adaptivity fuel map and changing the settings to what I mentioned (no changes to be made below 3400 rpms. Sometimes the auto adaptivity likes to do tuning a row below the thresh hold, so you may want to set the "start correction" to 3700 RPMs). 

Look at the actual fuel map and confirm for me that the 0% throttle column and 1600 row is nothing but zeros.

Please post screen shots of the actual fuel and ignition base maps.

Side notes, I am wondering the quality of your gas, after sitting a very very long winter.

Also do you have a voltage gauge mounted on your bike? If not I would install one, as every VFR should have one, that way you can know for sure that your charging system is behaving correctly during real world driving, not just during initial start up diagnosing....

You are absolutely right on the settings. I  did not notice that. I never changed anything and recall that those were the settings in place (5% and 3400) but who knows. I'll change that back.

No changes have been applied and the base maps are the ones I posted earlier on the thread.

Quality of fuel should be ok. I have put a few tanks in so far with no noticeable difference so I would rule that out.

Voltage going up at idle with high beams also had me wondering so if anyone has any ideas... it does go down with the high beams while revving at 5000rpm though.

As for the hard start it really is odd. I don't think it is the battery as it held it's  charge without issue for a month at a time this winter but I will go and get it load tested when I get a chance. Maybe the fact that it is correcting at such low rpm actually affects the starts.

I unfortunately do not have a voltmeter installed but it's been on the list for years :D

I'll replug everything and have a go at it.

Thanks again for the insight

You're welcome. For what its worth, most of the time my bike fires up instantly, but every now and again, it cranks like the fuel tank is empty for two or three tries and then catches fast like nothing happened on the second or third try. Its pretty weird, but I don't even really notice it anymore.

So the reason this happens is two fold. The PGI-FM uses total ignition on startup, so as it cranks the ECU fires all cylinders as it has no reference as to which is at TDC on the first couple of revolutions. That works fine on the standard bike as it then knows where its at from the cam pulse sensor.

The Rapid Bike has ignition adjustment & it gets this from the crank position sensor inside the clutch side case. If you think about it how can I advance ignition if its controlled by a sensor that is fixed in place ? Simple intercept the signal & allow the engine to turn over a couple of times to get a reference signal, now I know against my internal clock when to send the ignition signal early or late.

Combined now and again the ECU will attept to fire whilst the bike is cranking & the RBR module will not have sync'd its ignition timing, leading to an extra revolution or a stop & second attempt on your part to start as it didn't catch first turn like ti used to !

Strangely mine rarely starts if the PC is attached to the USB, if I pull the USB & start it then plug it back in the software shows all the good stuff that would be nice to copy for a post ride analysis.  Somehow the other day I managed to launch such a screen when carrying the laptop out of the garage, but I have NO idea where its located in the software :(

Mohawk

My RBR does the same thing.

If the USB is connected and I try and start, the fuel pump does not even prime, let alone the engine turn over.

This seems to have started a few software updates ago.

Like, you I now start the bike and then plug in the USB, and all good.

There must have been an update to the USB drivers or similar at some stage.

Doesn't seem to cause any issues, but a bit disconcerting the first time you find it. Especially after an update or similar.

Phil