Fuel Tank Swap on 2000 VFR800

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I wanted to introduce myself and ask for some advise. I'm looking to swap out my 2000 VFR800 fuel tank. The current tank has some damage, and was a crappy attempt at a color match by the previous owner. I was wondering if anyone could offer advise or knows of a tutorial on switching out the fuel tank. The fuel unit and pump swap makes me a little nervous. I'm not sure what to expect once I open her up. I've swapped standard gravity fed with a petcock tanks before, but nothing like this. Thanks

Hello and welcome.

Looking at the service manual, there doesn't look to be anything too hard in all of this. Prop up the front of the tank and remove the electrical connections, fuel overflow and breather hoses. Lay lots of padded material across the rear of the frame, and flip the tank right over onto it's back (you need the rear pivot bolt out). The fuel cap will seal perfectly if there's any fuel left in there.The high pressure fuel line needs to be disconnected, that's a hex-key banjo fitting similar to a brake line connection. After that just remove the flange bolts, and the fuel pump assembly should wriggle out.  The fuel pump/filter/mounting flange/fuel level sender are all one unit so nothing should fly off into a dark corner of the garage.

Honda (being Honda) say you should use a new rubber gasket for the tank and new banjo washers as well. There a replaceable fuel filter in the pump assembly if you felt inclined.

Don't forget to post a photo of your bike, so we know it is not just a fantasy...

[image: VFR tank.png]

When you do swap everything, be careful not to bend any part of the tank where the pump gets inserted.  The metal there is very thin, and if you bend it, the gasket doesn't seal properly and you'll be chasing a fuel leak.

Ask me how I know.  

Even if you do bend it slightly, it's easily fixed, so don't sweat it if it occurs.

Thanks Terry & Gregg

22 hours ago, Terry

Hello and welcome.

Looking at the service manual, there doesn't look to be anything too hard in all of this. Prop up the front of the tank and remove the electrical connections, fuel overflow and breather hoses. Lay lots of padded material across the rear of the frame, and flip the tank right over onto it's back (you need the rear pivot bolt out). The fuel cap will seal perfectly if there's any fuel left in there.The high pressure fuel line needs to be disconnected, that's a hex-key banjo fitting similar to a brake line connection. After that just remove the flange bolts, and the fuel pump assembly should wriggle out.  The fuel pump/filter/mounting flange/fuel level sender are all one unit so nothing should fly off into a dark corner of the garage.

Honda (being Honda) say you should use a new rubber gasket for the tank and new banjo washers as well. There a replaceable fuel filter in the pump assembly if you felt inclined.

Don't forget to post a photo of your bike, so we know it is not just a fantasy...

The paint should be in today. The tank should be here within the week. I'll be sure to post pictures of the process. Now I have the confidence. Good thing is I can still ride since I haven't pulled the old tank yet. Cheers!

If you look at the photo above where a hand is holding the fuel pump assembly, that black plastic part is where a particle strainer is located.

It can be a pain pulling through the opening due to being sort larger than the hole it's trying to fit through, and vice versa when trying to stuff if back into opening and into the tank. But it can be be done, just be patient and take plenty of deep cleansing breaths after long bouts of expletives.

The fuel level sensor comes out a lot easier than the fuel pump. It's a plastic float on an arm that attaches to the sensor unit.

Just be sure and use a new o-ring for the level sensor and fuel pump gasket, and torque evenly to spec torque. No problem with leaks.