Fifth/sixth gen vfr rear wheel fit on a 4th gen vfr

Does the 5th/6th gen vfr800 rear wheel swap perfectly to the 95 vfr 750 swing arm. I want the 180 rear tire and it's impossible to find the 3rd Gen 8 spoke wheel to get it

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Yes, but you have to notch the wheel to make it fit on the hub. 

2 hours ago, rallen0223

Does the 5th/6th gen vfr800 rear wheel swap perfectly to the 95 vfr 750 swing arm. I want the 180 rear tire and it's impossible to find the 3rd Gen 8 spoke wheel to get it

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Apparently you do don't show up here often! Sebspeed had an 8 spoke for sale and for some reason took more than a few days to sell. Very uncharacteristic of VFR members letting one sit for so long, it was at a fair price too.

That being said, the back side of the 5/6 Gen wheels are flat where it meets the hub, the later model hubs are also flat, so the wheel sits flush against the hub. Early model hubs have bolts that protrude on the wheel side and thus the wheel would need to be notched where these bolts protrude at. Which is basically what otmaximus said, just going for the detailed explanation.

This thread has photos that will help you visualize the differences.

Rear Wheels/tires, The End All Discussion

I have a 5G wheel at home that I've notched, but haven't mounted yet.  If I were home I'd send a picture.  It just took some time/patience with a dremel.

Good Luck!

Paul in SoCal

Duc2V4 Apparently you do don't show up here often! Sebspeed had an 8 spoke for sale and for some reason took more than a few days to sell. Very uncharacteristic of VFR members letting one sit for so long, it was at a fair price too.

That being said, the back side of the 5/6 Gen wheels are flat where it meets the hub, the later model hubs are also flat, so the wheel sits flush against the hub. Early model hubs have bolts that protrude on the wheel side and thus the wheel would need to be notched where these bolts protrude at. Which is basically what otmaximus said, just going for the detailed explanation.

I just started the full tear down a couple.weeks ago of my vfr. Looking at it without the this morning I remembered how ugly the 5 in wheel is with the 170 tire Imogen. I wish I would have been looking around when that post went up. That 8 spoke wheel is a dream

This helped a lot though and I'll check out that thread . Thank you

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

For reference, here is a picture of a 5 Gen rear wheel...

[image: IMG_1055_zpskpnlavdl.jpg]

And a 8 Spoke 3 Gen rear wheel...

[image: IMG_1054_zpspxk0b9qb.jpg]

otmaximus, 10/07/2016 at 2:41 PM

Yes, but you have to notch the wheel to make it fit on the hub. 

Alternatively, if you don't like cutting up wheels, you can do what I did to my 3rd gen:

[image: 20160422_195628x.jpg]

Titanium (optional) BMW S1000RR disc bolts inserted from the opposite side as the OEM bolts.

[image: 20160422_195610y.jpg]

Titanium locking flange nuts clear the caliper, etc.

Ciao,

I would go the way JZH suggest if it were my choice.

I 2nd that!  Very clever alternative.

2016 at 7:37 AM, JZH, July 11

Alternatively, if you don't like cutting up wheels, you can do what I did to my 3rd gen:

Titanium (optional) BMW S1000RR disc bolts inserted from the opposite side as the OEM bolts.

Titanium locking flange nuts clear the caliper, etc.

Ciao,

Is there a Honda part equivalent to do this? I got a 6th gen wheel and would rather do this instead of notching the wheel.

Ooohhh, a purist!  :tongue:

I always try to use Honda parts rather than those from other makes when I'm doing modifications, but all of the usual Honda disc bolts have different profiles.  All I can think of that would fit are the funky sprocket bolts Honda used on the RC30/NC30 sprocket carrier, but these (a) have one side "flattened" so they don't turn and (b) don't have any kind of slot for a hex or torx key because the "flat" part is supposed to keep them in place.  I know this because I'm also going to use titanium S1000RR disc bolts (with a flat ground into them) on my FP's new RC30 sprocket carrier.

(And in case I didn't mention this before, the flange is made from some kind of hardened steel, so getting the BMW-size bolts to fit is a bit harder than simply running a larger drill bit through it with an electric drill.  I used a drill press, a ti-ni coated drill bit and a lot of cooling/lubricating fluid and it was still touch and go.  Ideally, you'd want to have a machinist enlarge the holes ever-so-slightly for you.)

Ciao,

Not necessarily a purist but I just figured a Honda part would be cheaper than a BMW part, plus I have a local Honda dealer. But I thought it was also a simple swap of parts without requiring machining. Thanks for more details on the process. 

I'll take the path of least resistance and do nothing for a while.