Mint 2000 Model

After owning a 6th Gen for 80K miles, a 7th Gen for 35K miles, and now shopping for another bike I have come across a MINT condition 2000 model with just 21K on the clock.

I've read that these are the ones that you want.  I contemplated getting another 1200 but the excitement and the visceral excitement is just not there.  That being said, this bike is spectacular and has all of the mods that I would do myself. (Sergeant Seat, Yoshi Pipe, Risers, Zero Gravity) 

Seller is asking $4400.  Metallic Yellow Paint is perfect.

Since my riding will consist of the Cherohala Skyway and the areas around it, this seems like the perfect bike for that task.

Opinions?

Just do it. Always a way out if you don't love it.

12 hours ago, Headhunter

Seller is asking $4400.  Metallic Yellow Paint is perfect.

It better be...OEM plastics are being discontinued (as I discovered a few years ago trying to buy a yellow OEM rear cowl).  But if you can deal with a yellow bike (I can!), the Y2k is a lovely bike to own.

Ciao,

De ja vu?

Just picked up a 2000 model, 11k mi. new tires, needs chain/sprockets replacement and brake/clutch fluid flush and maybe new brake pads. $2.5 cash. 

[image: 2016-10-23%2014.00.44_zpsa8dqm0rg.jpg]

[image: 2016-10-23%2014.01.23_zpsrodygwwq.jpg]

I've put about 160 miles on it after I picked it up... old familiar feeling of a refined machine, my last VFR was nearly 10 years ago. 

Now the new VFR sit among the other street going Hondas in my garage. 

[image: IMG_7472.JPG]

What didn't you like about your 1200.

It does seem a strange logic that you don't get the excitement off the 1200 so you buy an 800 but you've made the decision for yourself and it sounds like you have found a great bike. Best of luck.   :beer:

4 hours ago, Skids

It does seem a strange logic that you don't get the excitement off the 1200 so you buy an 800 but you've made the decision for yourself and it sounds like you have found a great bike. Best of luck.   :beer:

From what I hear the power castration in the first few gears is quite the buzz kill.

People who write "from what I hear" should 1st testride the Veefalo....

Am sure that removing the restrictions (and knowing that they are removed...) gives an increased buzz.

Unless  you also do it to dodge "full power" Belgian registration tax at the same time.

22 minutes ago, Dutchy

People who write "from what I hear" should 1st testride the Veefalo....

Am sure that removing the restrictions (and knowing that they are removed...) gives an increased buzz.

Unless  you also do it to dodge "full power" Belgian registration tax at the same time.

If I could find one to ride I would do it.  This is why I say "From what I hear" as I can't get first hand experience and why I'm asking someone who does.

Well, having been -test- riding the VFR1200F. DCT and X-tourer at length I can only say WOW what an engine... Not experienced any of the gripes some have with it.

But I'm not Rossi, only been riding for 30+ years.....

Not ridden a reprogrammed ECU one in direct comparison so if owners say it is the bizniz, then I take their word for it

1 hour ago, Dutchy

Well, having been -test- riding the VFR1200F. DCT and X-tourer at length I can only say WOW what an engine... Not experienced any of the gripes some have with it.

But I'm not Rossi, only been riding for 30+ years.....

Not ridden a reprogrammed ECU one in direct comparison so if owners say it is the bizniz, then I take their word for it

Wasn't the restriction something that only affected the early models of the 1200? I thought this was for the first two model years and was resolved (for the lack of a better term) on the later models. Either way, I think whenever saying something like "From what I heard/read..." a disclaimer of "but I have not experienced this first hand myself..." would be a way to mention what others may have experienced and that this may actually only be "hear say"! :wink:

Well if the 2014+ 1200 is restricted in gears 1 and 2 then fook me, it'll be ridiculously quick when it de-restricted.

The BIG hit comes later though......from 50/60 onwards, it rips yr arms out and doesn't stop until well north 140! And I ain't talking kph!

nevermind......

Fifth gens are getting to be the best bargains in motorcycling.  Mint condition with just 11k on the clock and a slipon for $2,500 . . .

I'm curious how you like your 'Bird compared to the Viffer.  I've been snooping around for about a year to see if the right one pops up.

7 hours ago, Epyon007

nevermind......

Was it something I said?  :unsure:

21 hours ago, Duc2V4

Wasn't the restriction something that only affected the early models of the 1200? I thought this was for the first two model years and was resolved (for the lack of a better term) on the later models. 

Nope, the retardation of 1st & 2nd is for all 7th gens.

The first year I had my 2010 I thought I would not want/need the ECU flash. But after a while that sudden jump of power got to be very annoying. Little power, little power, little power, BIG POWER! It was most noticeable in long curves and sweepers and taking off to merge onto main roads. The ECU flash makes the power delivery consistent and smooth throughout the entire power band. I am no Rossi either, but that flash was money well spent.

2 hours ago, marriedman

Nope, the retardation of 1st & 2nd is for all 7th gens.

I remain unconvinced of this as I haven't experienced what you say however I'm happy to be proven wrong, if someone can do that.

18 hours ago, Cogswell

Fifth gens are getting to be the best bargains in motorcycling.  Mint condition with just 11k on the clock and a slipon for $2,500 . . .

I'm curious how you like your 'Bird compared to the Viffer.  I've been snooping around for about a year to see if the right one pops up.

I have had both carb & FI XX models.. current one in garage is a 03 FI model, stock bike, non-molested, purchased back in 2013 with 14k mi. at $3.5k.

Previously I had a 98 model that was tuned to perfection with Erion 4-into-1 exhaust, but in the wintertime when temp is sub-zero for few days straight, it would experience some difficulty at cold start. 

IME, after owning over 45 motorcycles in 20+ years of riding, there is no bike more refined than the XX, even compared to modern BMWs I've owned.

The XX is just so well built and everything seems to be in the right place to go fast and smooth. If you are looking to save time on long highway miles, XX is the bike to do it.

Stock form is best for clean running and reliability, exhaust mod may allow you to shed a few pounds but the stock weight really makes the bike more stable at higher speeds. 

I use my XX for my annual road trip to visit relatives, 500+ mi. one-way trip.. usually 10 hours of solid saddle time on any other bike.. but on the XX is about 8 hrs with stops. 

In comparison to the VFR800 I've owned, XX is just more solid of a bike at higher speeds, less fatigue after long hours in the saddle; regardless of which gear you are in, twist the throttle and you get acceleration pretty quickly... even two-up. Interestingly, the carb model had quicker throttle response than FI model, maybe the perfect jetting and exhaust mod had something to do with that. XX is not as nimble in the twisties, when changing directions quickly in switchbacks you really need to trust the bike and mean it; hanging off the bike is not as effective as leaning with the heavy bike. 

XX do tend to run hotter than VFR, carb model was cooler running, FI model regularly has its radiator fan on during the summer time, legs to get hot when pace slows down. 

Interesting, thanks for sharing that info!!!

13 hours ago, Skids

Was it something I said?  :unsure:

No sir your all good!  :cool:

Congratulations!

My experience with a Y2K VFR is that it takes years off your emotional age. And fifth gens are made for the Cherohala Skyway.

Good luck; safe riding.

2016 at 0:42 AM, Epyon007, October 26

What didn't you like about your 1200.

 1200 didn't have a soul.  It was like a Camry.  But fast.

2016 at 1:31 PM, cat0020, October 27

I have had both carb & FI XX models.. current one in garage is a 03 FI model, stock bike, non-molested, purchased back in 2013 with 14k mi. at $3.5k.

Previously I had a 98 model that was tuned to perfection with Erion 4-into-1 exhaust, but in the wintertime when temp is sub-zero for few days straight, it would experience some difficulty at cold start. 

IME, after owning over 45 motorcycles in 20+ years of riding, there is no bike more refined than the XX, even compared to modern BMWs I've owned.

The XX is just so well built and everything seems to be in the right place to go fast and smooth. If you are looking to save time on long highway miles, XX is the bike to do it.

Stock form is best for clean running and reliability, exhaust mod may allow you to shed a few pounds but the stock weight really makes the bike more stable at higher speeds. 

I use my XX for my annual road trip to visit relatives, 500+ mi. one-way trip.. usually 10 hours of solid saddle time on any other bike.. but on the XX is about 8 hrs with stops. 

In comparison to the VFR800 I've owned, XX is just more solid of a bike at higher speeds, less fatigue after long hours in the saddle; regardless of which gear you are in, twist the throttle and you get acceleration pretty quickly... even two-up. Interestingly, the carb model had quicker throttle response than FI model, maybe the perfect jetting and exhaust mod had something to do with that. XX is not as nimble in the twisties, when changing directions quickly in switchbacks you really need to trust the bike and mean it; hanging off the bike is not as effective as leaning with the heavy bike. 

XX do tend to run hotter than VFR, carb model was cooler running, FI model regularly has its radiator fan on during the summer time, legs to get hot when pace slows down. 

 An XX will be in my garage by Spring. 

2 minutes ago, Headhunter

 An XX will be in my garage by Spring. 

Are looking for carb'd or FI?   I keep a steady watch and have not seen many for sale. 

Not sure.  There's a nice 2001 in N.Ga I've been looking at?  

18 hours ago, Headhunter

 An XX will be in my garage by Spring. 

HERE is a easy search for ya. 

Love my 2000 :tour:

[image: 2016-05-10_VFR_wheels_stripped_resize.jpg]

Headhunter, 10/31/2016 at 9:17 PM

 An XX will be in my garage by Spring. 

If you are looking to make it a dragster and get the most out of the engine.. get a carb model... more options in mods that can increase performance for insane speeds, exhaust options to lose significant weight, etc.. 

If you are looking to keep the XX for a long time for that few times a year long distance highway touring, get a FI model. Turn key and go, ad fuel, lube chain, change oil/filter and ride. 

Either way, find the least molested, closest to OEM bike that you can find. 

They pop up once in a while, usually an older gentleman who can no longer find comfortable riding position on the XX. 

Not sure if you're looking for a drag-strip ready XX.. but THIS CBR1100XX might be the ticket for it.. strap the front end and go. 

[image: 00K0K_44h2Uuu785A_1200x900.jpg]

[image: 00u0u_i8U0K95NuP3_1200x900.jpg]

For those that have ridden an XX, how do they compare to (say) a ZX12?

number9, 11/11/2016 at 3:54 PM

For those that have ridden an XX, how do they compare to (say) a ZX12?

A bit old but..

ZX-12 vs XX

ZX-12 vs CBR XX

[url=https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYx84N7t8lGuw3airJz9KuA]Five part video[/url]

Are the brake calipers the same on the Blackbird as the VFR?

Pretty sure they use the same pads.. front and rear... I guess the calipers are the same as XX.

Epyon007, 11/18/2016 at 4:59 PM

Are the brake calipers the same on the Blackbird as the VFR?

The DCBS/LBS systems on both are similar, but as Honda changed the VFR version a few times, I don't know which one is the same as the XX version (or which XX version, more likely).  Nor do I care, I hasten to add!  I don't mind it, but I do mind the complexity, which complicates things like fork swaps...

Ciao,

Just a watch out.  :excl:

The updated 6G ('06-on) has revised calipers which use slightly (but fatally) different pads. The calipers are just a tiny bit less bulky and more rounded in shape but you need to look closely to spot the difference. 

There's a good chance that the XX uses the exact same calipers as the '98-'05 VFR's but do check the parts fiche. Bear in mind that a different colour is enough for a different p/n.

Interesting.  Do we know if there is anything better about 6th gen calipers over 5th?  I did HH pads and I'm not thrilled by the results.  I have not been able to do a fluid flush yet and now its 40 degrees outside.  Still on stock lines too so I'm sure those 2 things will make a big difference at some point. 

Proper brake flush is the key. I tried unsuccessfully for years and finally gave up. After I swapped the front end for SP1, I felt a couple other well bled stock linked lines and was impressed. I've done one since on a friend's bike, but it was still only about 90% compared to the best I've tried. I could never get a real solid rear pedal on my ST1300. It was always firmer with the front's applied, and would drop if I let off the front lever.

6th Gen changes the ratios a bit. If I recall, the rear pedal on the 5G works the center pistons on each front caliper and 6G is only one?

I think it's the same as the ST1300.

Hmm I never heard of the rear pedal doing anything but one piston on each front.  Then 2 on the rear if I recall that part correctly...  We just got our first snow so it's time to start drinking...

Yep, I just looked at the '03 I'm working on for a friend and there is only one line into the right caliper. 

Interesting.  So you have 3 Pistons on one side, 2 on the other and one in the rear when using the hand lever?

2 hours ago, Epyon007

Interesting.  So you have 3 Pistons on one side, 2 on the other and one in the rear when using the hand lever?

Yep. The rear pedal does the two outer rear pistons and the front left caliper center piston. The front is like you said, 3 (front right) and 2 (front left) and the rear center, but only if the wheel is in a forward motion rotation. As the caliper, when it grips the rotor, will rotate forward thus triggering the SMC.

The only thing that confuses me is the '06+ using different pads. But I've never professed to be a 6th Gen expert...

3 hours ago, KevCarver

The only thing that confuses me is the '06+ using different pads. But I've never professed to be a 6th Gen expert...

You had me doubting myself for a moment there so I double checked on my usual supplier's website :

This is for the '98-'05 models:

[image: 19451gr.jpg]

And this is '06-on:

[image: 19557gr.jpg]

Subtle enough to miss at a glance but definitely a no-go.

I did forget that the DCBS plumbing is different between the 5 and 6G but I don't know if that makes the actual calipers different.  :huh:

The '98-'08 Bird uses the same pads as the '98-'05 VFR.

(That's still no 100% guarantee that the calipers are exactly the same, though.)

That's interesting! Never knew that.

The ST1300 uses the same front pads. Mine was an '03, so they were the same as the early 6th Gen and 5th Gen. (Not sure if they ever tweaked the ST brakes.) The only difference was the rear pads are much thicker. CornerCarver ordered a set and was mistakenly sent rear ST pads. No way they would fit the fronts on a VFR, not enough room for the rotors in between them. They also fit the GL, not sure which years.

Somebody I know has a crashed '02-'05 he's trying to fix on the cheap with 2nd hand parts and discovered several inconspicuous but most annoying changes such as incompatible turn signals and fairing parts... 

Actually, regarding the pads, they are identical except for a tiny notch in one end, as can be seen in the images posted previously... and that notch isn't in all three pairs, only on the 6th or 6.5th gen rear pads, if I recall correctly.

Moral of the story is, if you happen to have some spare pads lying around or on offer from someone, and wonder if you can get some use out of them, like getting yourself out of a bind on a trip somewhere, so long as they have the notch, they will always fit in any caliper, either 5th or 6th gen. If really stuck, or a chronic miser, you can take a radial saw or some such and cut a notch into ones that don't have it. No worries at all.

I just can't recall right now but I believe it's the rear caliper on 6th (or 6.5th) gen that requires the notch.

I also am led to believe the rear ones are slightly thicker...

All I know is I had been swapping them around between front and back calipers and between 5th and 6th gens for years and only had a problem occasionally when there wasn't a notch in the end of the pad, I believe, for the rear 6th gen caliper.

15 hours ago, RC36Rider

You had me doubting myself for a moment there so I double checked on my usual supplier's website :

This is for the '98-'05 models:

[image: 19451gr.jpg]

And this is '06-on:

[image: 19557gr.jpg]

Subtle enough to miss at a glance but definitely a no-go.

I did forget that the DCBS plumbing is different between the 5 and 6G but I don't know if that makes the actual calipers different.  :huh:

The '98-'08 Bird uses the same pads as the '98-'05 VFR.

(That's still no 100% guarantee that the calipers are exactly the same, though.)

Ok so here are the next questions I have

1: It would appear that the 6th gen pad may have more braking surface.  According to that photo anyway

2: If the later Linked brake system works differently, would you just need the one Caliper or a whole bunch of other stuff.

3: Lastly I wonder if it's even a noticeable difference.....

1

Brakes, who needs them; they only slow you down. 

1 hour ago, Epyon007

 Ok so here are the next questions I have

1: Looks like it although I could have sworn the updated calipers were a tad smaller.  :huh:

2: Dunno. Most people who have grappled with DCBS seem to have either de-linked or ditched the system entirely. 

3: Mine's an '02 and I have no idea how the '06+ brakes work and feel. I just thought I'd mention the difference before someone purchased the wrong part. 

If it made a significant difference, I guess there would be more buzz around them.  :unsure:

Has anyone figured out how to get all the front Pistons and one in the rear with the lever and the other two in the rear with the foot pedal?  That to me seems like the best setup...

3 hours ago, Epyon007

Has anyone figured out how to get all the front Pistons and one in the rear with the lever and the other two in the rear with the foot pedal?  That to me seems like the best setup...

Castrol Honda briefly ran something like that on the RC45 in SBK under the name Racing CBS or some such. 

Memory's a bit hazy but I think it was Aaron Slight and John Kocinski so '97 ?

[image: sketch-1480156301536.png]

Yes I've heard they used something on the race bikes but I didn't believe it was the same thing was stock on the VFR.

I guess it's a nice thought to have something more like the race setup as I would love to have the full power of the 6 Pistons at my finger tips.  I did a pad upgrade and I wasn't that impressed.  With all of that said does my commuter/tourer really need brakes on par with my race RC51?  I guess it would be nice but at what cost?  May be time to look into stainless lines, as 18 year old rubber lines can't be delivering the kind of performance they once were.

6 minutes ago, Epyon007

Yes I've heard they used something on the race bikes but I didn't believe it was the same thing was stock on the VFR.

Oh, no way was it the same hardware as the road bikes, just the same idea of linking the brakes (more of an image thing for the CBS I think). 

IIRC, Slight gave the system a fair shot while Koc' would not touch it.

Seeing how every serious racer lifts the rear wheel under braking these days, I think it will remain a footnote in history. 

Oh yeah there is no way it was the same equipment, I meant set up as in how it worked.  Haha anyone racing on my VFR brakes would be fast as hell cause they ain't stopping worth a damn that's for sure!

21 minutes ago, Epyon007

Haha anyone racing on my VFR brakes would be fast as hell cause they ain't stopping worth a damn that's for sure!

Spoilt by the RC51's brakes or something wrong with your Viffer ?

I know they're not race grade but surely the stock brakes are not that bad, are they ?  :unsure:

Given the DCBS/LBS 2-circuit calipers you could certainly rig it to work that way if you really wanted to, but most people would probably instead opt for state of the art conventional brakes (as would I).  Who knows, maybe combined brakes would actually work better?  Try it and test it!

Ciao,

The back brake is easy enough to reconfigure so the pedal moves all 3 pistons, take the brake hose off the PCV fitting and fit it straight to the brake master with a double banjo bolt, alongside the existing hose. The hose length and bend are perfect, but beware of the effect of hydraulic ratios between the caliper and master cylinder piston. Basically the smaller the master, the more leverage effect at the caliper, which can make for grabby and mushy brakes. Using a CBR600F4 master fixes that, and is exactly what I'm using.

Up front some more creative thinking would be needed if you wanted to retain the 3-piston calipers. I suspect you could drill through the inside of the calipers (from the bleed port) so that all three were internally connected, then blank off one of the hose connections. As with the rear, you'd want to increase the master cylinder size to match the increase in caliper piston area. You would need to either block off the SMC hose connections, or remove it altogether and fit a solid rod in its place. Then throw away all the linked brake plumbing (its a great feeling!).

Or....find some slightly bent VTR1000F Superhawk or CB919 forks, and use the lowers and adjustable damper internals, then you can fit your choice of 4-piston calipers from CBR600, 929, 954 or SP1/2.

Epyon007's original question was about re-configuring the OEM system to include one of the rear caliper pistons into the front brake circuit, which is a little more complicated than that, but still just a matter of running brake lines and matching caliper piston areas to master cylinder piston areas.  I should point out that this configuration is essentially what the OEM linked braking system tries to do, but without the secondary master cylinder and everything--but wouldn't Honda have gone without all of that crap if they could make everything work without it?

Ciao,

23 hours ago, RC36Rider

Spoilt by the RC51's brakes or something wrong with your Viffer ?

I know they're not race grade but surely the stock brakes are not that bad, are they ?  :unsure:

I guess I've been spoiled by most every bike up until now when it comes to brakes.  I've had almost all super sport bikes except my GS500's.  The Street Triple brakes are great but not earth stopping I really had no problems with them.  The Brembos that were on my Hyperstrada were flat out awesome.  I like the idea of the linked brakes and I see nothing really wrong with the system as used for a street application.  They just don't seem as "good" as I had hoped.  It could be a function of the weight too.  As I recall adding the stainless lines to my RC51 really changed things for the better.  Perhaps one day I'll get on the lines for the VFR.  I added HH pads and they are better but still just ok at the moment.  Like is said I still need to do a fluid flush and could do new lines at some point.

Maybe CornerCarver will pop in to show off his pic of his stoppie with stock linked brakes on his '98?

13 hours ago, KevCarver

Maybe CornerCarver will pop in to show off his pic of his stoppie with stock linked brakes on his '98?

Not entirely stock...EBC HH pads but stock hoses and everything else.

[image: gallery_7288_7182_47731.jpg]

Nice form.

10 hours ago, cat0020

Nice form.

Actually several mistakes the pilot is making in this picture.  Never let be it be said that I am totally useless, I can always be used as a bad example.  :tongue:

Should I tell you all or would anyone like to posit their opinions? 

CornerCarver  
Actually several mistakes the pilot is making in this picture.  Never let be it be said that I am totally useless, I can always be used as a bad example.  tongue.png

Should I tell you all or would anyone like to posit their opinions? 

You're associating with BMW riders.

Nice butt!!!!   :goofy:

The Wolf that is..

Brake a little earlier....Haha

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

Ok, great guesses so I will provide the answer key (even though no one asked):

1. Can't really see but my eyes are on the ground looking at a point between the cones. They should be up and looking down range still. Focusing on that spot could cause you to loose your spatial/situational awareness and bring the bike on over on its' nose.

2. I have come to a complete stop and the bike is on the way down from about 20-24".  The guy behind me at the gate waiting to go next said he could see my under oil pan plastics and the front tire. Even though I have already come to a stop, my feet should still be on the pegs NOT desperately searching for terra firma.

3. My arms are extended and elbows locked.  In a real panic situation this would prevent me from steering around whatever was the cause of the emergency braking procedure.

Better form would have the knees squeezing tightly to the tank to support the forward weight transfer while the forearms remained loose and parallel with where the road used to be and the riders eyes looking ahead and planning a path of avoidance after scrubbing off enough speed to take that action.  Of course, the feert should remain on the pegs.

Funny thing about Forbes suggestion to brake earlier, I told my sons via blue tooth as I was next in line for this drill that I felt like the front tire was warmed up (this was on the third pass of this drill) and it was going to allow us to see if a VFR with lonked brakes could loft the rear wheel.  Should have heard them shout HOLY CRAP! when the rear came up that high.

The 5th gen VFR still enjoys one of the top 10 braking distances ever recorded by either Cycle World or Motorcyclist (I don't recall which) of 105 or 108 feet from 60-0.  Was 3rd best braking distance they had ever recorded at the time of the test in 98 or 99.

CornerCarver Ok, great guesses so I will provide the answer key (even though no one asked):
 
1. Can't really see but my eyes are on the ground looking at a point between the cones. They should be up and looking down range still. Focusing on that spot could cause you to loose your spatial/situational awareness and bring the bike on over on its' nose.
 
2. I have come to a complete stop and the bike is on the way down from about 20-24".  The guy behind me at the gate waiting to go next said he could see my under oil pan plastics and the front tire. Even though I have already come to a stop, my feet should still be on the pegs NOT desperately searching for terra firma.
 
3. My arms are extended and elbows locked.  In a real panic situation this would prevent me from steering around whatever was the cause of the emergency braking procedure.
 
Better form would have the knees squeezing tightly to the tank to support the forward weight transfer while the forearms remained loose and parallel with where the road used to be and the riders eyes looking ahead and planning a path of avoidance after scrubbing off enough speed to take that action.  Of course, the feert should remain on the pegs.
 
Funny thing about Forbes suggestion to brake earlier, I told my sons via blue tooth as I was next in line for this drill that I felt like the front tire was warmed up (this was on the third pass of this drill) and it was going to allow us to see if a VFR with lonked brakes could loft the rear wheel.  Should have heard them shout HOLY CRAP! when the rear came up that high.
 
The 5th gen VFR still enjoys one of the top 10 braking distances ever recorded by either Cycle World or Motorcyclist (I don't recall which) of 105 or 108 feet from 60-0.  Was 3rd best braking distance they had ever recorded at the time of the test in 98 or 99.

1 hour ago, Forbes

I was being sarcastic, could plainly see it was an advanced course. We all need to be reminded from time to time. Have been in that scenario as I'm sure many have, expect the unexpected I'm trying to instill in my daughter.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
 

and clever.  I liked your comment.  Try to get her eto look further down the road than the vehicle directly in front of her. Once she does that she will be ahead of 80% of the population on the road.

Apologies, CornerCarver, one of those days when you not thinking straight. Was going to say ' I was being humorous' but didn't fit, now I see 'sarcastic' didn't fit either....
I stick by the philosophy that no matter how old, we learn something new all the time.
Thank you for posting and explaining your picture.
Regards
Craig

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

Headhunter, 10/31/2016 at 9:17 PM

 An XX will be in my garage by Spring. 

Cogswell, 10/31/2016 at 9:21 PM

Are looking for carb'd or FI?   I keep a steady watch and have not seen many for sale. 

For those who are looking to add a Blackbird to their garage: eBay listing of 2000 Honda CBR1100XX.

Forbes, I see no reason to think you should apologize.  My post veered significantly off topic.

Cat that is a very clean XX.

cat0020, 10/25/2016 at 6:39 AM

Just picked up a 2000 model, 11k mi. new tires, needs chain/sprockets replacement and brake/clutch fluid flush and maybe new brake pads. $2.5 cash. 

[image: 2016-10-23%2014.00.44_zpsa8dqm0rg.jpg]

[image: 2016-10-23%2014.01.23_zpsrodygwwq.jpg]

I've put about 160 miles on it after I picked it up... old familiar feeling of a refined machine, my last VFR was nearly 10 years ago. 

Now the new VFR sit among the other street going Hondas in my garage. 

[image: IMG_7472.JPG]

That is one hell of a score!!!