Hey guys, long time lurker but finally had a reason to signup/post. I've had my 98 since she was 5 so I'm quite familiar with all the usual VRR woes. I've gone through 3 of them, now about to put in a 4th. My stator checks out on resistance, no ground, and voltage at idle and 5k but I was curious to visually check out the stator as I haven't done that in all the 73k miles on it. So I opened it up and have attached a pic.
My question is, should I replace it? It doesn't look FRIED per se, but it sure doesn't look spic and span. My tentative plan is to replace the stator and VRR (and solder the connections) with Rick's versions and throw in a VFRness too if that seems beneficial. Anything to not have to do this again.
That looks good for 73k - better than my 6th gen's stator at 18,000 miles. You can have Custom Rewind re-work your core for about $105. Mine's got 7k since and is working fine - they did a great job. You can also ask them for an extra length of wire (I did) or whatever type connector you want.
Considering the work required to get to where you are and the consequences of a failure if any significant distance from home, it's totally worth it to do it now.
If your stator has 73K miles on it and still hasnt failed - count your blessings - 50k seems to be a fairly normal lifespan. Yes- replace now you got it apart.
You seem pretty adamant about that. I've read somewhat mixed reviews of Rick's stuff, but pretty much mostly positive. I'm certainly ready to try a non-Honda VRR, but I could sway either way on the stator...
What are you guys' thoughts on the VFRNess? Worth it?
Yep, since it's already apart. I had mine rewound by Custom Rewind in Birmingham after having issues with a Rick's.
Don't bother with anything from Ricks.
Custom Rewind Stator
Roadster Cycle R/R upgrade
That's all you need. Adding anything to the charging system is superfluous at best. Adding means adding- More wires, more connections. These are the weak spots, wires and connections. Don't add more with a VFRness. 102,000+ miles on my '99. Not all with that setup, but it's been like that for several years now. I even rebuilt it after a crash and left off my volt meter because I had gone a couple years with no issues (and no VFRness).
Send the + output of the new Regulator Rectifier directly to the battery + terminal but through a 30a fuse. Send the - output directly to the main frame. Wrap up the original R/R connectors and tuck them out of the way, you won't need them at all.
You seem pretty adamant about that. I've read somewhat mixed reviews of Rick's stuff, but pretty much mostly positive. I'm certainly ready to try a non-Honda VRR, but I could sway either way on the stator...
What are you guys' thoughts on the VFRNess? Worth it?
Rick's stators are horrible. Another bike I have is also prone to stator/rectifier issues; everyone gets a Ricks and then they're swapping it back out in 5-10k miles. I've seen the same here, too.
VFRNess is a nice, but I don't think it's a 100% requirement. It cant hurt...
I've had mixed experiences with rewound stators. I had one rewound for my wifes VFR and it did not perform right; we put an OEM in and it's been perfect. I don't want to mess about with that green gasket unnecessarily so I'm going OEM every time. They last 50-75k miles (well documented now), so I wouldn't personally go with anything else.
OEM stator it is! How about Rick's VRR? I understand mosfet is superior to the OEM vrr, but there are other options to get mosfet (like R1 vrr, right?).
OEM stator it is! How about Rick's VRR? I understand mosfet is superior to the OEM vrr, but there are other options to get mosfet (like R1 vrr, right?).
The FH020AA kit from www.roadstercycle.com is where I'd go with! It's basically the R1 r/r as mentioned.
Brown color on your stator is due to the oil additives that discolor
during the heat of operation... notice the color grow darker on the
bottom where it splashed with more oil and stays light on the top...
it is no indicate of a problem... first test the stator's output in
accordance to the shop manual to know the condition...
Thanks everyone for the responses. OEM stator and a roadstercycle VRR it is. The stator may look ok, but with 73k on it, it would seem I'm on borrowed time. Looking forward to getting the VRR from Jack.
n China, there are also many cyclists encountered this problem, I am usually let drivers, replace conform to the specifications of the battery, 12 v10a - size 12 a YTZ12S 14 s equivalent model, and then point to check battery 30 next to a fuse, and rectifier, generator plug whether burned yellow, this is a common problem
Another factor considered to contribute is the ethanol in our fuels entering the engine oil (past the piston rings) and affecting the insulation around the coils.
So changing oil as per schedule is prudent.
And then there is luck, redsluts oem stator lived 60k km's happily, measured perfectly. Only reason to change was I could source a new one, hand carried (with a mosfet RR) over from the USA. :-)
No scorching marks/discoloration, I confidently sold the oem on.
End of thread · 19 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 25 Aug 2017
![[image: 149d30a4292bd7c2f85887509baa36e9.jpg]](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/149d30a4292bd7c2f85887509baa36e9.jpg){kind=link}