I've been looking and listening to you guys for a few months and finally had to join in on the fun!
At the end of the NC fall I bought a lightly used 2010 1200F. So far its been a huge hit. But like everyone here, I have some questions for the knowledge base. I've attached a few pics of the bike after I brought the bike home and spent about 10 hours cleaning it up. I've spent about two weeks of lunch's scrolling through the entire forum to answer as many questions as I can, but it has also lead to some more. So here are a few to get started. Thanks in advance to those that take the time to answer.
-LSL Superbike bar conversion - I've got stock now and want to change. I'm 99% sure I want to go the LSL route over the Heli-Bar route. Those that have gone LSL - any regrets??
-RHS under seat fairing - Mine is split and I've read that it was very common to the 2010's. I've contacted the two dealers by me and both have no interest in helping me, other than to order new. Those that have gotten a fresh one through Honda - any suggestions on friendly dealers?
I would have got the LSL but thought I'd have to change the brake and clutch lines. Turns out not, but I got the Heli bars. I wish they would allow a more upright position, but they're better than stock. The only thing I didn't like was the blue (2012) paint so I sprayed it w/ Flexidip.
I love the LSL's, I can ride all day long with no issues. Snappier in the tight stuff too, you just have to be careful in the 100+mph sweepers leaned over all the way - the wide bars are more sensitive to inputs.
No regrets on the LSL bars. You will have to re-route cables and lines, but no replacements are needed. It doesn't provide a dramatic difference than the Helibars, (I tried them first) but definitely higher and further back. I'd prefer even more, but the fairing and tank clearances are the limiting factors. Oh, and you may need shorty levers to get the most out of it.
I own an RC, the 1200 and an ST - so by design my garage contains 3 levels of bar height. The stock VFR is the sweet spot IMO. The RC clip-ons are high compared with modern supersports, but still are not exactly touring level. The ST is designed for the long haul, but the position trades control for comfort. The VFR toes the line between the two and hits the sweet spot in comfort vs control.
But bars are very subjective - we're all different shapes and sizes and have different strengths, weaknesses and medical conditions. As a Physical Therapist this is where I'll plug building leg and core strength to improve riding comfort. Ridden properly, clip-on height should (almost) be negligible as your legs and core do the work, not just your back and wrists.
When you're only using your back and wrists it's like lifting a couch with a buddy, but he doesn't carry his weight. The job is meant to be done by multiple muscle groups and it's no small wonder wrists and back get sore - just like you would carrying that couch alone.
Only other thing I'd add is to make sure you ride the bike for a bit to really take it in. I had a lot of vibration issues when I first bought the bike and was preparing to throw lots of money at a solution. With time and miles under my belt my issues have almost completely resolved on their own (acclimatization?) and with money in my pocket.
Mine had some buzziness too, and except for the clutch basket issue, I don't feel it at all anymore. I still have not put bar ends in the LSL's, and at first it drove me nuts, now I couldn't tell you if they buzz or not. Either I'm acclimated, or too focused on my riding techniques, or maybe it lost it's vibrations. I spoke with another guy this last weekend, he had the S1000XR BMW and said when he got it there was such bad vibrations, he almost sold it. After 10K miles of hard riding and a few oil changes to the good stuff, he said it's gone. Maybe the new engines are so tight they transmit every vibe, and once they get even a few tenths of thousandths' wear there is just enough to damp the vibes? Or maybe our brains re-calibrate our threshold level..............
I'm liking my bike more and more. After messing with the suspension, and never seeming to get it right, I set it up fairly stiff because I could not stand the wallowing feeling. After a few rides I got annoyed and softened it up one or two clicks. After a dozen rides and a few more clicks, I don't even notice the suspension, which means I finally got it right!
I own an RC, the 1200 and an ST - so by design my garage contains 3 levels of bar height. The stock VFR is the sweet spot IMO. The RC clip-ons are high compared with modern supersports, but still are not exactly touring level. The ST is designed for the long haul, but the position trades control for comfort. The VFR toes the line between the two and hits the sweet spot in comfort vs control.
But bars are very subjective - we're all different shapes and sizes and have different strengths, weaknesses and medical conditions. As a Physical Therapist this is where I'll plug building leg and core strength to improve riding comfort. Ridden properly, clip-on height should (almost) be negligible as your legs and core do the work, not just your back and wrists.
When you're only using your back and wrists it's like lifting a couch with a buddy, but he doesn't carry his weight. The job is meant to be done by multiple muscle groups and it's no small wonder wrists and back get sore - just like you would carrying that couch alone.
Only other thing I'd add is to make sure you ride the bike for a bit to really take it in. I had a lot of vibration issues when I first bought the bike and was preparing to throw lots of money at a solution. With time and miles under my belt my issues have almost completely resolved on their own (acclimatization?) and with money in my pocket.
Welcome to the enlightened 7th Gen Fraternity
I agree. Core strength is the single most important factor for rider comfort. My 13 vfr is stock. I ride 400 to 500 miles on consecutive days. At 6'3" and about 225. #, and 67years, I see no need for changes to the bike MarkinReno
I agree. Core strength is the single most important factor for rider comfort. My 13 vfr is stock. I ride 400 to 500 miles on consecutive days. At 6'3" and about 225. #, and 67years, I see no need for changes to the bike MarkinReno
How do you find the seat-to-footpeg length? 6'4" here and looking to buy a 7th gen...
CasualSwede How do you find the seat-to-footpeg length? 6'4" here and looking to buy a 7th gen...
Swede, my inseam is 34", shoe size 12. Seat to foot pegs could be a little longer, perhaps an inch. I'm comfortable with the balls of my feet on the pegs, but not for many hours. I'll move my feet aroun quite a bit. MarkinReno
Guys - thanks for all the feedback. I went for the SLS bars and I couldn't be happier. They move the grip position just enough to get me more neutral with a little less weight on my hands. They were pretty tricky to get set up so they clear the mirrors and fairings. I went to a CNC, adjustable, shorty brake and clutch lever to get away from the mirrors. I would suggest these to everyone. To me, they feel much better and I feel like I have better control. At 5' 11" with a 32" inseam I don't think I need to move the pegs, but I can see where you could want a bit more room if you were taller.
End of thread · 13 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 5 Jul 2017