Looking for measurements of aftermarket braided brake lines. From center of banjo to center of banjo. I installed helibars and am ordering a set of custom lines.
Two reasons, the company doesn't have a set already spec'd out for the vfr750 and with helibars you have to trim a tab off the master cylinder to properly adjust the controls. The company I am going through makes custom lines with a choice of different ends.
I am not going to just get risers and extended lines are not quite what I need.
I know it is two separate lines and I could measure what I think is the path to run them, but have I had the ability to do R&D on a bike without worrying about throwing $100 of materials away? If I can get measurements then the chances of me ruining a brake hose is slim. They increase if you measure everything yourself. I have made hoses and hard lines a number of other times for other applications, there is always trial and error. Why spend $2-300 on lines that should only cost $100 and then have 3 or 4 lines that don't work for you.
One "trick" I like to do for braided line is go to lowes and buy some quarter inch diameter tygon(plastic) tubing. Its cheap. Then route it like you would with new brake lines and then cut it. You can screw up a couple times before you get one right where you want it. Ez peazy...... Cost is around a whole $5.
I know it is two separate lines and I could measure what I think is the path to run them, but have I had the ability to do R&D on a bike without worrying about throwing $100 of materials away? If I can get measurements then the chances of me ruining a brake hose is slim. They increase if you measure everything yourself. I have made hoses and hard lines a number of other times for other applications, there is always trial and error. Why spend $2-300 on lines that should only cost $100 and then have 3 or 4 lines that don't work for you.
You're massively overthinking this and that kind of money for braided lines is bloody ridiculous! I don't know if he ships to the US (or whatever) but Wezmoto make great lines and will adjust the length to whatever you want. You're not doing R&D, you're just over complicating something that's been done a million times on a bike that's as old as the dinosaurs.
You're massively overthinking this and that kind of money for braided lines is bloody ridiculous! I don't know if he ships to the US (or whatever) but Wezmoto make great lines and will adjust the length to whatever you want. You're not doing R&D, you're just over complicating something that's been done a million times on a bike that's as old as the dinosaurs.
The issue is nobody READS the whole post. If you would like to criticize what I am asking ensure you read before posting. If you can't provide the information then don't post.
You pay for custom and quality. An extra $30 for a set of custom lines which work with helibars without modifying the master cylinders is worth it.
Charming. If you think relying on random people on the Internet is a better idea than trusting your own measurements, maybe you shouldn't be working on your own bikes?
Charming. If you think relying on random people on the Internet is a better idea than trusting your own measurements, maybe you shouldn't be working on your own bikes?
Ciao,
If someone can't use a tape measure on a premade line maybe they shouldn't be working on their bike.
This started with a basic question that obviously nobody that has read it could answer.
You received some very good suggestions and seem to have rejected them with a bit of attitude thrown in for no obvious reason (I don't see anyone criticizing your plans, just offering commonsense alternatives).
Like Mello suggested, I used some electrical house wire I all ready had doing the same thing, found the wire a bit stiffer which made me able to mold the line the way I though it should go, then cut it to length I was wanting. Bingo. Then if it be known I believe in the brake line kits available are long enough to be able to add heli bars with no problem. they tend to be on the longer side with the ones i had got for the 750 back then. like said above, ain't that hard to figure. just saying.
Like Mello suggested, I used some electrical house wire I all ready had doing the same thing, found the wire a bit stiffer which made me able to mold the line the way I though it should go, then cut it to length I was wanting. Bingo. Then if it be known I believe in the brake line kits available are long enough to be able to add heli bars with no problem. they tend to be on the longer side with the ones i had got for the 750 back then. like said above, ain't that hard to figure. just saying.
The reason I can't use a premade kit is when you adjust the brake/clutch lever before modifying the master cylinders the banjo fitting hits the fork. CoreMoto makes custom lines that are very nice. My brother has run a set of them on his 919 for a year.
Do they? I've had braided lines on all my VFR's (apart from the one I have now) and never had the banjo fitting hit the fork.
It's due to the angle changes of the helibars. They don't have as much of a rise as they change the angle of the bars as they come back towards you. When adjusted for clearance lock to lock they are very comfortable.
I realize I could measure and get close. At the same time I have seen and installed aftermarket lines that were made for the bike/vehicle and it always looks like the lengths are spot on.
All I was asking is if someone happened to have a set if they could measure them. I am extremely capable of working on my own stuff, I maintain all the mechanical/electrical parts of a ship for a living.
Here are a couple pictures so you guys can see what I mean. The brake lever could be brought up slightly to make clearance for the line, the clutch lever can not.
I'm also ordering another ASV C5 lever for the brake. My tax returns are allowing me to do everything I want to it this year. It may be a 23 year old bike but I enjoy it. Might sound crazy but at 26 almost 27 I want a bit of performance and a comfortable bike. A corbin seat is next, along with dropped pillion footrests(my girlfriend has long legs).
I can see where you're coming from now, I personally wouldn't worry about them touching the forks as they'll make contact at the point of contact below the reservoir and never move, if the cables touch the forks then there's not much you can do about that other than make sure they're guided correctly and maybe fangle up some kind of bracket for them (like there they connect to the fender, for example)
I still need to rotate the levers down slightly to put them at a comfortable position so I need more clearance around the lines. Probably going with 45 degree fittings at the master cylinder.
Awe kinda figure this, just didn't see the helibars being that way. If it where me, I would get a good round file for metal like a chain saw file and do a bit of metal removing there on the banjo stops built in the masters. I had this issue and that was the fix for me. Again just saying. Aren't photos great ;)
Awe kinda figure this, just didn't see the helibars being that way. If it where me, I would get a good round file for metal like a chain saw file and do a bit of metal removing there on the banjo stops built in the masters. I had this issue and that was the fix for me. Again just saying. Aren't photos great ;)
As far as I can tell it is a complete removal of the banjo stop. The instructions from heli says to remove the front one and space the crimp on the brake/clutch lines an extra inch before removing the stock bars. I didn't do this as I was looking at getting the CoreMoto lines as they can be custom ordered.
As far as chafing points Core provides as many rubber guards for going into brackets as you want. I planned on having a couple extra added to give me some added protection.
I bought a dremel for doing stuff like this. Between this bike, my cb750 and an ATV it has been handy.
Could you get an extended banjo bolt and put a washer between the reservoir housing the the lines? It should push them outwards and away from the forks. Looks like you'd need about an inch extra to do that though haha
Could you get an extended banjo bolt and put a washer between the reservoir housing the the lines? It should push them outwards and away from the forks. Looks like you'd need about an inch extra to do that though haha
That would require a solid spacer which would have to match the extra length of the bolt pretty close.
mine has Hel brake and clutch lines fitted by the previous owner,this is my first VFR so do not know how good or bad the brakes are,never used them in real anger as yet
mine has Hel brake and clutch lines fitted by the previous owner,this is my first VFR so do not know how good or bad the brakes are,never used them in real anger as yet
Not great, certainly not stoppy inducing and I wouldn't recommend riding quick up someones arse. The bike far outweighs the braking capabilities.
don't worry will be anywhere near another rider as I am still getting used to the bike after a very long time from riding,not a pretty sight I reckon,just waiting for better weather to get more miles and confidence
Not great, certainly not stoppy inducing and I wouldn't recommend riding quick up someones arse. The bike far outweighs the braking capabilities.
Coming from riding a 1993 cb750(nighthawk) with single disc front and drum rear this bike stops amazingly quick for the weight. Both bikes are about 460 lbs as well.
Finally got around to measuring and deciding what to do with the brake lines. I just got a Pit Bull headlift front stand, which allows the forks to extend fully. All measurements are overall length(including banjo fittings). My brother gave me a hand which made it a lot easier.
I did custom angled fittings on the front brake and clutch lines to clear the forks and get the adjustment of the levers correct.
I heard of one case where that little detail was overlooked leading to the brake lines snapping clean off upon the first wheelie. :wheel:
Fresh underwear time. :goofy:
Between my brother and I we double checked everything. I ordered last night, and received an email today with a question about color. Hopefully I will be riding this weekend.
I looked around more and found galfer does custom lines as well, but no price information.
Just put a full Galfer kit on my 93. Clutch and both brake lines. Went on perfectly!
Pricing was about $200 Canadian.
It appears as though the 90-93 master cylinders do not have the stops around the banjo fittings. This would allow you to install Helibars without the issue I have with my 94.
It appears as though the 90-93 master cylinders do not have the stops around the banjo fittings. This would allow you to install Helibars without the issue I have with my 94.
Yes i I called Galfer directly to order as I couldn't find them through any distributors. Even Galfer doesn't stock them. Mine were made for my order.
Helibars are aftermarket clip ons that give you a bit of a higher bar, but also changes the angle of them to make it more comfortable. They are no longer made but can be foundon eBay occasionally.
Most brake line companies don't stock kits for older bikes but keep the specs on file to quickly make them when an order comes in.
Hmm I don't find the stock setting uncomfortable at all.
Everyone fits a bike different. The only issue I have is that I was leaned over slightly too much. The Helibars made just sitting on the bike more comfortable.
End of thread · 41 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 9 Jul 2017
