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WTF is my fuel issue post PAIR mod?

18 posts Started 21 Mar 2017 Last recovered post 24 Mar 2017 Wayback Machine snapshot 26 Jun 2017

#1

Just buttoned up my 5th gen after doing the PAIR/snorkel/flapper mods. I used block-off plates manufactured by MelloDude and torqued them onto the red/orange seal that was originally around the reed valve. 

After reinstallation of the tank, hoses and misc. wire connections, I started the bike and something is NOT right. I shot a video and uploaded it to YouTube so you guys can see/ hear exactly what's happening. Worth noting that this was the first time I'd ever pulled the tank but that I took time to make sure everything was connected correctly.

Please check out the video link and LMK if the issues (first stalling, then low idle, then inconsistent idle, then FI light) is a symptom of incorrect install of the tank or  leak in plates used to block PAIR valves. 

[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/ncfR4jHRI7U?feature=oembed]
#2

Maybe you pinched a fuel line, vacuum line or tank vent?

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#3

NO! Was hoping that this would be easy to pin point. Guess it's back in the garage to pull the tank and airbox, etc. 

#4
7 minutes ago, CandyRedRC46

Maybe you pinched a fuel line, vacuum line or tank vent?

So doesn't sound like leaky valve block-off to you then? I guess that's positive. 

#5

Could be anything from throttle pos sensor to manifold air pressure sensor to intake air temperature sensor.
All of them are in that zone and could be a bad connection or whatever...
Go back and check all that.
If the bike starts as the video shows i would bet for one sensor... Temperature maybe, but who knows.

#6

My recollection of the removal is that you will have to adjust the idle. As far as the FI light goes, perhaps one of the sensor lines was not reconnected. Regarding the block off plates, the reed valves in the PAIR cavity should be removed and essentially the block off plates will be bare metal to bare metal on the engine cover.

#7

If you got an FI light, figure out the code. hopefully its something stupid like just mixing up the tps and map sensor....

#8

Just went back through the instructions I was following from THIS VFRW Thread. There is still one specific step that I'm still unsure about. Step 26 says: Remove the bolts from the left faring, enough to remove the PAIR electronic solenoid connection. I did this then taped up the half of the solenoid connection that was still on the bike. Is this what's throwing the code? Perhaps that connection IS NOT the one that disables the PAIR valve. Ugh! 

IMG00399-20110730-1513.jpg

#9

From another thread I found: So what we want to do is to disable the PAIR valve altogether and the easiest way to do exactly this is to remove the cable controlling it! If you look on the right side of the bike under the very tank you just lifted, you will see cables and a connector like this. (I didn't remove this guy. Could that be the problem?)

[image: 3-pair_valve_connector.jpg]

#10

You should see the PAIR valve solenoid near the back of the air box. Follow the wire that is connected to it and disconnect it and reconnect the one you disconnected earlier. It's easier to see/trace if you lift the gas tank.

#11

If you have a leak at the block-off plates, it is very obvious due to the terrible sound that it makes.I assume that you have blanked/blocked off the large air port at the front of the airbox that feeds the PAIR system?

I doubt that the solenoid will play any part in this whether it is connected or not; I just disconnected mine and taped it out of the way. More likely you have missed a connector/hose somewhere. I left the vacuum hose off for the MAP sensor once and the bike told me pretty quickly via lame running and the FI light morse code.

#12
Terry I left the vacuum hose off for the MAP sensor once and the bike told me pretty quickly via lame running and the FI light morse code.

Im almost certain this is the issue. Caught the FI light flashing 2 on its own after idling for a while. Code sheet in manual says MAP sensor connection or faulty MAP sensor. Guessing I forgot to connect or the quality of that connection was poor.

I'll be pulling her apart again tomorrow. Thanks all for chiming in. Really hope it is simply a connection bc I wanna ride!!!

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#13

Looks like that's the point, your best bet is to completely remove the pair system, and for that purpose you'll have to remove the airbox. It's not easy to do so on that model as the air intake for pair is on the front of the airbox and remember that you've got to block that port with a rubber plug or something (i've seen a bolt and nut method somewhere else)
Be careful to connect all sensors and tubes correctly and take your time, it looks like you've disconnected other thing than pair valve there.
Good luck!

#14

Thanks again everyone! After I learned how to read the code last night, I was able to quickly locate the issue which was a small hose I failed to re-connect into the bottom of the MAP sensor.

So now my PAIR system is out! Next up, CA emissions delete. [image: emoji6.png][image: emoji1360.png]


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#15
7 hours ago, Bret

Thanks again everyone! After I learned how to read the code last night, I was able to quickly locate the issue which was a small hose I failed to re-connect into the bottom of the MAP sensor.

So now my PAIR system is out! Next up, CA emissions delete. [image: emoji6.png][image: emoji1360.png]


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Hahaha sorry man but that is funny. Glad you fixed it though so now you can enjoy the fruits of your labour.

#16

I noticed in your video your idle was low. Specs say 1300 +/- 100 rpm.

Congrats on solving your issue.

End of thread · 18 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 26 Jun 2017