Long time since I've been here. Drove a bit Saturday to pick up this VF400F rolling chassis and this non-running V30 Magna. I spent Sunday going through the Magna to get it running.
We didn't get the VF400F here in the US so it's a bit of a rarity. This one is titled and I went to the DMV today to get the title in my name so I know there's nothing wrong there. The owner claimed it was _the_ VF400F used in this Cycle Guide magazine. I don't know about that but I do know I have an interesting project on my hands...
A friend of mine had the VF400 in South Africa, really quick, was always curious about the inboard discs..... On the 750's the 'V' is different between the Magna, front bank further forward, shaft drive, motor turns reverse to the chain drive, forward, front bank more upright.... Is this so with the 400 motor too?
That is a rare beast, even her in the Netherlands! congrats!
So what is the plan? A VF400 MagnaCeptor hybrid?
Magna motor in the VF400. Then get rid of the rest of the Magna.
The motor is essentially a 500 Interceptor motor but cams and carbs tuned for more midrange. Transmission should be a bit different with slightly wider ratios the first three then closer the last three.
Then the fun begins. I am torn between keeping the stock wheels and something a bit different.
A friend of mine had the VF400 in South Africa, really quick, was always curious about the inboard discs.....
On the 750's the 'V' is different between the Magna, front bank further forward, shaft drive, motor turns reverse to the chain drive, forward, front bank more upright....
Is this so with the 400 motor too?
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The inboard discs are probably not Hondas greatest achievement. They tried to ventilate as much as possible but I imagine heat still gets trapped. The rear on this bike is warped. Probably corrode pretty easily tucked in like the are also. I have some ideas though.
On the little Magna the V is upright more like the Interceptors, there is no shaft drive but a chain driving the rear wheel and the motor spins the correct direction. Should be a pretty straightforward swap as the 500 is pretty much a bored out 400.
I owned two of these from new, back in the day. Awesome little machines, and great for embarrassing bigger bikes. I can confirm that the inboard discs do indeed get really hot, I recall smoke rising from the front after a spirited run through suburbia with many stop signs. My first one was a real rocketship and surprised my GPz900 riding mate by managing 210km/hr down a long hill. I'm told that one achilles heel is the fuel tank as water can sit in a low point and never drain, leading to corrosion.
I look forward to watching the transplant. The pics below are of my second VF400F which was a Japanese domestic market model imported new by our local importer, which did not come with a standard chin spoiler, and also had a red light that came on above 100km/hr IIRC. My first one had the same graphics as yours but reversed so the main colour was burgundy and the stripe silver, with a silver frame.
I may have some old road tests of these from magazines that I could dig out and scan if you are interested.
Before you undertake a wheel swap, may I point you in the direction I have gone? Changing the tires from bias-ply to modern radials really changes the look of the wheel. New paint or power coating could help too. Also I am curious, with these changes that you are making, are you aiming for a speed demon or an agile dancer? Remember, if you make the diameter of the rear wheel smaller, you lose top speed. Tire profile effects this too.
Looks like fun. Don't hate me but I actually like those wheels...goes with the rest of the styling/era.
Didn't Canada get those? Seems like I've seen a few here and there in several forums.
No hate here. I actually like the stock wheels. Definitely a cool retro thing, inboard discs included. I just haven't decided the end result yet. And there's something about a 16"/18" combo that I kind of like.
Before you undertake a wheel swap, may I point you in the direction I have gone? Changing the tires from bias-ply to modern radials really changes the look of the wheel. New paint or power coating could help too. Also I am curious, with these changes that you are making, are you aiming for a speed demon or an agile dancer? Remember, if you make the diameter of the rear wheel smaller, you lose top speed. Tire profile effects this too.
Hello Tyy. What tires are you using? And what sizes?
thanks for your thoughts. I haven't decided which direction to go as above. Been a touch busy tonight putting the motor in the 400 chassis. Looks like I can move forward. Don't mind the filth as I needed to do a proof of concept fit.
Great work on the transplant. So glad that it is straightforward.
If it was mine, I would keep the wheels and brakes stock, I mean if you wanted a mean handling, well braked bike, you'd have bought a CBR600RR or something. I do like the 16/18" stance, and 17s would upset that. I would also suggest sticking close to stock tyre sizes especially up front, you should only put a 100 section on there. I have a vivid (and slightly unhappy) memory of hitting a hump-back bridge at over 160km/hr, enjoying some air, then having the mother of all tank slappers on the landing. Aside from wrenched thumbs all was well, but it does serve as a warning about 16s. That was the only scary moment on both bikes and probably 50,000km of enthusiastic riding however.
Just fit a VF750F or a CBR600F2 front end, all the benefits, no drawbacks & leave the rear stock or match with a 750/600 rear wheel/brakes.
While I'm not ruling that option out 100%, I've done similar a couple times. A great solution performance-wise.
I set these aside years ago with the plan for a 500 Interceptor, just add whatever front end I felt like at the time. I don't think I will use them on the little 400 and only show them as ideas I've considered. I want to do something different.
Correct-ish wheels but loses those damn inboard brakes.
Ya, darn! While retro-cool and all, if I keep the stock inboards I have to replace at least the rear rotor as I'm sure it's warped.
Im thinking the 500F2 wheels would give me the mini retro-racer-hotrod look I'm thinking. Plus dual front discs are a plus. I like effective brakes. You can push further if you can stop.
Gotta get it up and running/riding before all that though.
So there's luck. Like finding a non-imported VF400F with no engine and a Magna 500 with a 5000 mile engine in the same trip and bringing them home together. Then there's finding a NIB Hindle/Holeshot 4-1 header system made in the early 1980's and a nice condition Fox shock just across town from you luck.
My first bike was a cbx 550 , also somewhat rare, and I can attest that the brakes sucked but I didn't know any better. It had the same wheels and three inboard ventilated disk brakes, each one cast iron and weighed slightly less than a boat anchor. After a crash I replaced the front end with a cb750ss and it was a completely different bike.
Holy shit. Score. I have a set of Beet (?) Rearsets for the 400 I got ions ago from Japan to adapt to a 500.
How in the hell did those things pop up in your area?
Did you use the rearsets on your 500? Post a picture?
There is a local guy I met a long time ago who was into 500's. He has three I think. He used to race them also. I gave him a call and he had exactly what I needed. And he was eager to let them go.
My first bike was a cbx 550 , also somewhat rare, and I can attest that the brakes sucked but I didn't know any better. It had the same wheels and three inboard ventilated disk brakes, each one cast iron and weighed slightly less than a boat anchor. After a crash I replaced the front end with a cb750ss and it was a completely different bike.
Yep. Good brakes are a must. I've replaced front ends on a few bikes. It always has turned out soooo much better than the originals. Nothing against restorers but I just don't think I'm one.
I still need to make mounting brackets but used some turtle wax chrome polish for a little protection, a little copper grease on the joints and you get the idea.
Did you use the rearsets on your 500? Post a picture?
There is a local guy I met a long time ago who was into 500's. He has three I think. He used to race them also. I gave him a call and he had exactly what I needed. And he was eager to let them go.
Haven't mounted them yet. Planning on using them on my next 500 build.
It looks like I can relocate/add one frame tab so they mount in the same location as the 500 brackets. I have a full Yosh system for the 500 that I want the mounts to match the correct locations. They are nice pieces, if not a little overbuilt.
Haven't mounted them yet. Planning on using them on my next 500 build.
It looks like I can relocate/add one frame tab so they mount in the same location as the 500 brackets. I have a full Yosh system for the 500 that I want the mounts to match the correct locations. They are nice pieces, if not a little overbuilt.
Trick stuff.
Full Yoshimura system for the 500 sounds pretty rare.
I`m not in love with the sound of the Holeshot muffler. Might have to replace that with something that sounds good like I did with my big Interceptor.
I did some homework on the Hindle. The mid pipe is a very large diameter. Hindle used to offer a baffle that could be inserted here. Instead of reinventing the wheel I just did what they did to take a bit of the edge off the audio output. I had a poor condition set of Kerker K series headers for a VF750F laying around so I pulled a baffle from one of the mufflers, wrapped it first in stainless mesh then fiberglass wrap and inserted it into the mid pipe. It protrudes the perfect amount to meet up with the muffler. Now it sounds very good. Throaty but not arrest me officer loud.
Fuel tank back from Moyers for their blast seal and bake treatment.
Plan on painting this bike so this was a no brainer. I've dealt with my share of rusty tanks. No worries after this.
Did fork seals and some brake work as I like to do an occasional test ride while playing, I mean working, on the bikes. Rear brake rotor wasn't warped. Just rusty and the pistons were sticking while the rear rotor was not set in its mounts correctly. Haven't finalized wheels/forks yet so no harm.
Also started fitting the chin cowl. This one is pretty rough as you can see so a bit of work left to do. A bit of a change with the Hindle so cutting required. Also got the chance to make a mount for the left side top cowl bolt since the motor mount bolt was there but not the nut/mount. A few nuts, a welder and some gun blue and it works.
Those wheels are one of my favorites. Starting to come together Tom. No doubt it will look and ride fantastic. Looking forward to the finished product.
Those wheels are one of my favorites. Starting to come together Tom. No doubt it will look and ride fantastic. Looking forward to the finished product.
I talked to a local powdercoater I've used before regarding the bolt/rivet together wheels. It won't be a problem as his oven gets to 380*. Should bring them back to a pristine finish and he does very good work. I'd like to have a setup like yours Kel but I just don't have room.
Now that's a little scary. Comstars by themselves shouldn't be Moving around. At least I don't think they should. What do you think was the cause?
Yep, I did a test fit on a set of CB1000F forks with swing away axle clamps. I would like to use that set up on a VF1000R build I've been thinking of for years; 17" Comstars with the rear widened to 5.5". Powdercoat the sliders fighting red. Leave the clamps silver. Those 43mm tubes are nice and beefy and no TRAC.
Nice and subtle.
As far as the nuts and bolts, why not paint them silver? I'll be doing the rivets that way if/when I have them powdercoated. It doubles the price if I have them masked and coated separate from the black. And I can paint a few rivets convincingly.
The bike was a stock 85 VF1000R with 14,000 miles on it, never been wrecked. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the wheels. I just know the nearly 600 pound bike got enough flex on built up wheels that the powder coat cracked at every spot where the spokes were bolted to the rim. The powder coat did not seem overly thick, and they never had any other issues over the years.
I've been keeping my eye out for some "The Big One" forks. I think they are the perfect application on our old VFs. Conventional, good looking, beefy, and long enough. They look very period "race" correct.
I was going to hand paint the bolts a nice titanium-ish color, but thought I can always do it later. Never have.
Any ideas on what rotors will play nicely with that set-up? Maybe some adapters needed like on the NS forum?
I have a slightly bent front 1000R Comstar that might need to come apart for bolt research. Like I need another project.
The CB1000's should be the correct diameter although they won't fit the Comstar as is. The calipers shown also hit the spokes. I haven't revisited this setup but plan to.
Don't knock the projects....I felt dead inside for so long, now I'm building a bike I feel great. Projects are reason to problem solve but with a good outcome!
Don't knock the projects....I felt dead inside for so long, now I'm building a bike I feel great. Projects are reason to problem solve but with a good outcome!
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Oh, I'm not knocking them... It's those reasons that I have so g-damn many going!
Makes sense and should be bolt on. Let me know if you need triple clamps or any misc chassis hardware.
Originals 35 or 37mm? Just curious.
Some 86-87 VFR forks would be cool to run the bigger disks if wanted. Not that the bike needs it, but that's not necessarily why we do these things, is it?
And the VFR front calipers have a slightly more modern look.
Makes sense and should be bolt on. Let me know if you need triple clamps or any misc chassis hardware.
Originals 35 or 37mm? Just curious.
Some 86-87 VFR forks would be cool to run the bigger disks if wanted. Not that the bike needs it, but that's not necessarily why we do these things, is it?
And the VFR front calipers have a slightly more modern look.
Thanks. I may take you up on the triples. Haven't located front end yet.
Not much new. The bike came with two lower cowls, both broken. Luckily the plastic is of the thermoplastic type so I was able to use a soldering iron to weld pieces together to make one cowl.
I took the opportunity to make it look a bit more molded to the Hindle exhaust by adding and shaping plastic.
[image: IMG_9038.JPG]
[image: IMG_9039.JPG]
End of thread · 53 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 17 Jan 2018
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