BLS Lowering Blocks/Brake Pedal

Should I need to lift my foot off the peg to use the rear brake after installing BLS Lowing Blocks?

Did you adjust the rear brake to it's lowest position? Generally I was not a fan as it kicks your feet out by the block width so I ditched mine.

I was able to lower it some but not enough. I thought there was a write-up about it but can't find it.

I did the whole cut-the-end-off-the-adjuster-bolt thing and ditched the lock nut to be able to adjust even lower and still was never happy with the brake pedal height. Then I found a second hand set of Thurn adaptors (unicorn poo stuff). If you're committed to BLS lowering blocks you could have a metal smith bend the pedal for you to a custom height. That's the only way to really get a comfortable height on that rear brake pedal.

That's it! The cutting of the bolt is what I had read about but had since forgot. Thanks Auspanglish!

Did it make much of a difference at all by doing that?

And was it difficult to do? 

Just copying and pasting this private message here for posterity. If it gets left in my pm inbox it defeats the purpose of this being a forum. I would have answered here eventually. Can't be everywhere at once.

Hi Auspanglish

Thanks for sharing your experience with the BLS's Lowing Blocks.

I'd also like to know if it make much of a difference by doing all that cutting & stuff?

And was it difficult to do? 

Made the brake pedal height bearable but not perfect and eventually I looked for a different solution. It is easy to do if you have a good selection of tools. I cut mine back with a hacksaw which was a pain in the ass but didn't want to get power tools too close to other parts of the bike. Maybe if you remove more bits and pieces you could get it into a vice and angled away from the bike and use an angle grinder. Only thing is conserving the thread as usable, which is essential.

Do you think using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel would work?

Sure. Probably need a case full of wheels. Not sure how hard they are compared to that threaded adjuster rod which I seem to recall was tough stuff. Twas a long time ago.

I cut mine with a Dremel.   The cutoff wheel easily cut the rod,  but also wanted to walk off of it easily.  Some heavy cardboard or other material can be used to protect the surrounding parts.   Don't forget about lengthening the spring to the brake light switch or it will be on constantly.   I got a very small split ring at the hardware store and threaded it through both the spring and the hole in the lever.  A bit of adjusting got the switch working as desired.   

Thanks Cogswell

Was it difficult getting enough space to cut it? Looks like there's several little linkage parts that would be in the danger zone of also getting cut.

Did it make a considerable difference?