I want to fix my speedometer with new sprokets. I figure a 15/42 or a 16/39 will give me the 10% change needed. I was hoping to get a good set for less than 150 bucks. I don't want to spend 125 dollars on a speedohealer or add anymore electrical devices to an already questionable electrical timebomb. I also like the idea of taking some of the grunt out of the lower gears anyway. I drive the speedlimit so high torque doesn't impress me.
thanks
Joel
Changing sprockets to fix speedo is not a great way to do it.
It will also be a hit and miss afair plus it will greatly change your drive with 4 teeth less, and you will need to shorten your chain.
Adding a speedohealer will have no effect on your charging system, VFR electrical problems are not caused by extra load.
They are caused by bad connectors, or not using enough of the power the stator is producing.
+1 on Speedohealer for the win. Got one on my RC51 and it is spot on.
Joel.
Speedos by law must not read below true speed, so manufacturers err on the side of over reading. Also, what is the state of wear on your rear tire and the cold pressure you're running, this could be adding to your over speed reading?
Agree with VFROZ, wouldn't stuff around with sprockets just to achieve a minor speed correction.
If you’re hell Bent on doing this, adding 1 tooth to the front sprocket should get you really close, with the benefit of longer sprocket life.
You wont need custom sprockets. All major sprocket mfgrs should offer a +1 front.
Add a bicycle computer and use that instead of relying on the OEM speedometer. Problem solved for less than $20. Don't forget that your
odometer is spot on, and when you change the gearing you'll throw off the odometer. Here's mine:
[image: Cockpit.jpg]
I will just go stock.....I was hoping the extra tooth or teeth would take a bit of the bite out of 1st gear but it would have been a subtle change at best. Wish they would have made the lower gears longer.
Joel
Fj12ryder.....is that a ballmount on your tank bolts? Where did you get that? I like that as it won't make your phone turn with the bars.
Joel
changing the sprockets will NOT fix anything.. the % error will still be there, and actually worse w/ a change in sprocket ratios.. your only real solution would be a device to do that electronically. Look into SpeedoDRD (You can find them on Amazon among other places...) cheaper than Speedohealer and work just as well.
Use your GPS to read actual speed.
Before the GPS, I would just assume that I am actually moving slower than indicated, which gave me license to go faster.
With various degrees of success if you ask my license 😜
Yeah, it's a, RAM mount
I use it to mount my GPS.
I've read that the 6th gen's bolts are spaced a touch wider, but not enough to cause
serious issues, or problems that a small application of rat tail file won't correct. 🙂
Back to the original question.....what manufacturer chain sproket sets are best for the money.........Is the vortex CK2141 a good choice?
also, I need to know what brand of breaker and rivet tool is best for the money? It doesn't have to bee too heavy duty because I will probably only use it once every three years or so.
thanks
36 minutes ago, FJ12RyderYeah, it's a, RAM mount
I use it to mount my GPS.
I've read that the 6th gen's bolts are spaced a touch wider, but not enough to cause
serious issues, or problems that a small application of rat tail file won't correct. 🙂
So you had to file the inside of both ram mount holes a bit? did you get the composite or the steel version? Seems like the composite is the way to go if filing is needed. looking at yours closer. You got the one with only one screw hole, not two right? So did you just use only one tank bolt and not put in the one blocked by the ball?
thanks
Joel
I think if you stick to name brand steel sprockets you'll be fine. I usually get mine from Sprocket Center, but I
prefer DID chain. I have an industrial chain breaker, and the Motion Pro assembly tool. Also a grinder will work
but creates grit that can be spread around. The Motion Pro tool isn't strong enough to push out the rivets without
stressing, unless you grind the heads down first. It work good to enlarge the heads though.
I went to a 17 front and 45 rear when I changed the sprockets on my '99. I love the difference and I think it really
helps the lower gear acceleration without affecting gas mileage. Mine is basically unchanged.
I didn't have to file out the holes on my RAM mount. It fits the 5th gen just fine, but I'm not positive about the 6th
gens.
5 minutes ago, FJ12RyderI think if you stick to name brand steel sprockets you'll be fine. I usually get mine from Sprocket Center, but I
prefer DID chain. I have an industrial chain breaker, and the Motion Pro assembly tool. Also a grinder will work
but creates grit that can be spread around. The Motion Pro tool isn't strong enough to push out the rivets without
stressing, unless you grind the heads down first. It work good to enlarge the heads though.
I went to a 17 front and 45 rear when I changed the sprockets on my '99. I love the difference and I think it really
helps the lower gear acceleration without affecting gas mileage. Mine is basically unchanged.
I didn't have to file out the holes on my RAM mount. It fits the 5th gen just fine, but I'm not positive about the 6th
gens.
so is your stock 16/43 like mine? Your mount was the one hole type correct? so you left out one tank bolt? or did you add spacers to raise the mount high enough to clear the second bolt?
thanks
Stock gearing for a '99 is 17 tooth countershaft sprocket and 43 rear sprocket. I changed the rear to a 45 tooth and
left the countershaft sprocket at 17 teeth. I think it improved the bike's all around performance a lot. It just feels better.
The '99 has two holes in the front of the gas tank, and so does the RAM mount, you just can't see the second one in
my picture, but it's there. It's a perfect fit with no issues.
There's another RAM mount up by the cycle computer where I mount my camera occasionally.
FJ12ryder thanks for clarifying..
Joel
:beer:
To foolishly answer the original question, in 2009 had a rear sprocket made ("ti-moly", IIRC) by Sidewinder Sprockets (Krause Racing). I wanted a custom rear sprocket for some reason, and they said they'd make whatever I wanted (though I recall now that they wouldn't/couldn't make it in tool steel, which is what I had wanted!) It was pricey, it took longer than promised, but it did arrive, and it did work. (I have not put many miles on it, so I have no idea how long it will last.)
[image: P1000980x.JPG.a806bf84b986ad7874f0d7513fc0aa8d.JPG]
However, if you ever want to be shocked out of your lazy consumer complacency, just google "sidewinder sprockets" and read the numerous tales of woe...
Ciao,
I ended up going with a DID 530 VX Xring Chain and Vortex Sprokets front and rear. I also got a Motion Pro PB Chain breaker Rivet tool. I saw a video on Youtube and liked that I can get parts for it on Ebay if something gets worn or broken. I will really only use it once every 20,000 miles so that should take me about 3 years before I need it again.
I had a custom sprocket made for a 1992 Suzuki GSXR 750, because I installed the wheel on my '86 Yamaha FJ1200
so I could use 17" wheels. There were no sprockets available in the size I needed to make the ratio close to stock, so
I had one made. Seems like it cost me nearly $100, but it did work and got me the gearing I wanted.
I would have to search my records to find the name of the company, but can if you need it.
2 hours ago, FJ12RyderI had a custom sprocket made for a 1992 Suzuki GSXR 750, because I installed the wheel on my '86 Yamaha FJ1200
so I could use 17" wheels. There were no sprockets available in the size I needed to make the ratio close to stock, so
I had one made. Seems like it cost me nearly $100, but it did work and got me the gearing I wanted.
I would have to search my records to find the name of the company, but can if you need it.
No thanks ryder I already bought a nice set. Or rather I hope it is nice. I am dealing with a snapped off aluminum bolt in the brass L bracket above the Left hand radiator. It holds the upper fairing. It was a little stripped with the stock bolt so I had the brilliant Idea of putting a cheap aluminum bolt in there to see if it was stripped or the bolt. It snapped that cheap chinese bolt into like it was nothing. I was only threading it in with a nut driver to give you an idea how flimsy those ebay colored fairing screws were. I think I will have to take it off and see if the dealer can order me a new one otherwise I will have to drill it out and then tap it to accept a new screw.....always something f--cked around here.
thanks
Joel
Here is an article you might like about an oil test
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I got this article from another member.
Yeah, I've read most of the article before. Some of it I agree with..kind of, and some I don't agree with. He has
a pretty high opinion of himself.
Bummer about the fairing bolts.
I bought a Speedohealer for cheap from a goldwing, never used. Only cost $35. Keep an eye on the ebay!