Connector gets hot! part 2

So fast forward to this year..

The new connector for the 30A fuse holder I spliced in is getting too hot. Too hot to touch really. [emoji25]

And so is my R/R.

Question:

If I do the Roadstercycle.com fh020 regulator upgrade and wire directly to the battery, can I remove the melty 30A fuse and it's connector to the stock bike harness?

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Yes

Good!

I was hoping that was the charging wire through the harness for the battery.

So the other end of that small connector goes through the harness and into the R/R?

And that stock R/R plug is the plug I will be capping off?

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No?

I’ve had my R/R wired directly to the battery through a 30a fuse on the +. I recently revised that setup to a 30a breaker and saw that the other (stock) 30a fuse was getting toasty so I replaced it with another 30a breaker. 

I’ve not ever heard anyone recommend removing the 30a fuse. Am I not understanding this correctly?

14 minutes ago, BuzznerSuntrusts

No?

I’ve had my R/R wired directly to the battery through a 30a fuse on the +. I recently revised that setup to a 30a breaker and saw that the other (stock) 30a fuse was getting toasty so I replaced it with another 30a breaker. 

I’ve not ever heard anyone recommend removing the 30a fuse. Am I not understanding this correctly?

To clarify:

The stock RR feeds to the harness trough a 30A fuse to the battery. 

If you go from RR directly to the battery with new thicker wiring and new 30A fuse or breaker, you no longer need the original fuse as it is no longer doing anything. But you still need to connect that wire to the battery. 

On the 5G the wires from the RR split inside the harness, one goes to the stock 30A fuse then battery, the other goes directly to the fuse box without going through the stock 30A fuse. 

So you still need a feed to the stock fuse box. 

You could leave it there, but if it’s getting hot it’s because the female lugs that hold the fuse are lose or corroded, so you might as well get rid of it. 

It should be clear as mud now. 

Definitely clear as mud.

Definitely first time I've heard this recommended.

Definitely the female leads on the 30a fuse were getting loose and arcing, causing burn marks on the fuse and the housing to get brown.

I love to learn!

I crimped in a new connector for the 30a wire, and it's getting too hot to touch for more than a second or so. Within minutes of starting the motorcycle.

Stock r/r also getting sizzling hot.

So to be clear when I replace the r/r wiring, I still haven't fixed the 30a fuse connector melting issue?

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Hang tight dude..... 

With the new R/R you will need wire as below.... 

If you are getting the super kit, a breaker fuse is provided, so you use that and delete the one you are using... 

If you are doing a wire your own.... I suggest using a MetriPack630 fuse holder listed in the middle of this page... use the 12 gauge... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

I am just guessing, but it sounds like you have a fuse holder that is undersized.... 

Wire diagram.... 

[image: RRRR%20wire%20it%20up-L.jpg]

Ok so with the super kit, it has a breaker fuse for the charging battery lead.

But I will still need to connect the original 30a wire from the harness to the battery, but with a larger fuse block ?

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[image: 407ad859e91fffadf646ce33fd9a0258.jpg]

You will disconnect the main R/R connector and leave it hanging.. like the lower left in the photo below... 

[image: 20170506_234252-L.jpg]

Correct.

But I am keeping the fused connection between fuse B on the diagram and the positive on the battery?

It looks like from the diagram it feeds to the ignition.

It is a 2007

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jstehman, 8/14/2019 at 10:30 PM

Correct.

But I am keeping the fused connection between fuse B on the diagram and the positive on the battery?

It looks like from the diagram it feeds to the ignition.

It is a 2007

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It does go to ignition through a 10A fuse. 

That’s why it’s no longer needed. At least on a 5G, but I’m sure the 6G is the same. 

If you have the wiring diagram just trace it and see. 

I got the super kit today. I'm not sure when I'll have time to install, but to be sure on the directions:

1. Removing stock R/R harness and taping off(no longer used)

2. Installing new mosfet R/R running Pos and Neg leads directly to battery with included 30A fuse break.

3. Leaving the original 30A ( fuse "b") lead hooked to the battery positive terminal

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11 hours ago, jstehman

I got the super kit today. I'm not sure when I'll have time to install, but to be sure on the directions:

1. Removing stock R/R harness and taping off(no longer used)

2. Installing new mosfet R/R running Pos and Neg leads directly to battery with included 30A fuse break.

3. Leaving the original 30A ( fuse "b") lead hooked to the battery positive terminal

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That's pretty much it.... the "fuse b" you are talking about can be left as is... .you can see a glimpse of it on upper left on the battery box of my photo... I agree its a wimpy damn thing, and I admit as to contemplating replacing it with a more robust MetriPack630 part, built up with 10ga wire.  But it seems to be ok for the moment, so I have other things that are higher priority. 

I dont know how the connections to the stator look like on the super kit.... But the preferred way is solder and marine shrink wrap.  --( I do all my own wire it stuff.).. 

The main point here and I want to stress is.... do a good craftsmen like job to get it together... .

btw - your mount plate is due to arrive at your place on Friday/Saturday.... 

every one of our  VFR's should be recalled for normal electrical failures:

[image: july_1_2019_015.thumb.JPG.4a5478df292525431b21dc9339262b78.JPG][image: 2114901864_june12019015.thumb.JPG.12236f83fb6dd36a52dcf565226dd149.JPG][image: july_1_2019_021.thumb.JPG.1713dd5a744500807dffab85e07c20a2.JPG][image: 851920491_july12019036.thumb.JPG.18b3a1786c4627e6fef96e01064bf84c.JPG]

Honda had great mechanical engineers but poor to horrible electrical engineers.

I think you guys are more missing the point of the 30amp fuse. It has NOTHING to do with the charging circuit & is NOT required for the charging circuit. The Main 30amp fuse is there as a total bike system short or overload protection.

The charge circuit positive output is on the down stream side of that fuse, because it powers the bike in normal use & surplus power is shunted to the battery back through the fuse to recharge the battery. Most people have a misconception that an engines electrical demand power comes from the battery, this is NOT true. The battery exists for two purposes, 1. As a store of power to allow starting & 2. As a supply of additional power when the charging circuit (a terrible name, it should be power generator) is NOT making enough power to supply the machines needs, such as at idle with all the lights on etc.

If your 30amp fuse is getting hot you have a serious power drain or corrosion issue that you need to investigate, it’s NOT the charge circuit making it hot, or should not be, unless you have a serious charging issue, or a battery that is not in good condition, thus drawing more charge than it should.

As per those pics above, there is serious corrosion in those terminals.

6 hours ago, squirrelman

every one of our  VFR's should be recalled for normal electrical failures:

Maybe not the 8gen! 

My reasoning for changing out the r/r is that I don't want it to crap out on me when I'm far far away [emoji16]

This is my daily ride, and I need her to be as reliable as possible.

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Consider adding a digital voltmeter up front so you can keep an eye on the system health..

I would do a stator test to get a data point on that too.

I checked the stator via "the drill" and got good results. The connector did not show signs of overheating.

I've seen a lot of threads about the r/r taking a dump, so I'm trying to be proactive..

I'm hoping to have this bike for a long time. Ergos are nice, highway stability is great, the v4 lol. Just gotta tighten up my ship

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