Ok, so I'm just getting back into bikes. I need a new front tire so I need to remove the front wheel off the VFR so I can take it to the shop.
I have no lift, etc. I'm open for suggestions. The rear stand puts the weight on the front. How can I get this front wheel off without a lift. I have floor jacks, jack stands etc.
Sometimes you can put the bike on the centerstand, and put a dumbell on the pasenger seat and the front wheel will come off the ground. A bit nerve racking so its better with the fairings off, then put a jack under the headers.
Easy enough to jack up the 800 on the headers, but I do wonder about the load that places on the exhaust gaskets as one of mine developed a leak. Personally I love the head lift stands (like the one in my VTR photo), very easy to use and great for front end work UNLESS you need to work on the steering head. https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFH/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front-head-lift-stand
Or, do a combo of a jack under the headers (I use a small piece of plywood to distribute the load to both tubes and to make sure there's plenty of surface area so the jack won't slip off) and some weight on the back seat. A sandbag would work well for that or another solution I saw was to run an appropriate size pipe through the rear axle and then stack barbell weights on it. What works well for a jack is from a sedan that has a scissor jack. With the weight on the back the jack won't have to do much if any work to raise the front up. When I had my forks out for service mine sat like that for a month with no problem. Just be sure to loosen the bolts up prior to jacking it up. But, stands remain the best way if you want to make the investment.
This is how it looked while I was reinstalling the forks. It clearly shows the headers supporting the front and how I positioned the jack. The stability was fine. I would not though recommend doing any heavy duty tightening of fasteners in this state. If you leave the rear wheel on (I couldn't here because the shock was out) you can lift the front with the jack until the rear wheel just contacts the floor (do not overdo as you'll end up picking it up off its side), and then with 3 points of contact it's surprisingly stable.
If you have a hard point above, like a good stout joist or carrying beam, you can throw a strop under your triple trees and use a chain hoist. Any doubts about the joist, throw a piece of 4 X 4 over 3-4 of them and center the bike underneath. Notice the center stand is taking some of the weight
Back when I used a hydraulic motorcycle jack, I used to throw a couple of ratchet straps over a joist and jack the bike up then take just a little weight on the straps as a safety in case I got a little over eager with the socket set. Spread them a bit on the joist so you get a good angle and use the triple tree as a lift point with a strop. You can use any kind of jack you want really, but use good real ratchet straps instead of those pull through ones with no real brake.
First pic is this past Spring, had the front off to swap the tire and the rear swingarm off to service bearings, bushings, shock etc.
Second pic is the type of jack I used, but the bike still was a bit bouncy, hence the straps.
Place a ratchet strap on the floor. Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap. Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on. Place VFR on centerstand on top of board. Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on. This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed. Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.
Place a ratchet strap on the floor. Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap. Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on. Place VFR on centerstand on top of board. Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on. This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed. Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.
That is some NC injenuity right there. I also had them install a loop/hook in the corner of the concrete when they built my garage. I could get it close to that and strap the back wheel down. It's a toe murderer but comes in handy once in awhile.
Place a ratchet strap on the floor. Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap. Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on. Place VFR on centerstand on top of board. Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on. This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed. Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.
That is some NC injenuity right there. I also had them install a loop/hook in the corner of the concrete when they built my garage. I could get it close to that and strap the back wheel down. It's a toe murderer but comes in handy once in awhile.
I drilled my slab and put in anchors for my tire changer. If the threads get full, I use the shopvac and I can attach whatever I want to the floor now.
I drilled my slab and put in anchors for my tire changer. If the threads get full, I use the shopvac and I can attach whatever I want to the floor now.
Save that vac time... put a little oil on some earplugs and put them in your anchors........ old trick.
End of thread · 25 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 1 Feb 2023