MBD Strikes Again!

Only my 3rd, but for me that's a lot!

Agreed a purchase this afternoon and planning to collect Sat 12 Feb.

2001 model with 8900 miles from new! It's in beautiful condition, considering it's British 🌧️

Poor guy, bought it as 2nd owner in 06 but struggled to ride it due to a hip condition. The only mileage he managed was the annual ride to get it MoT'd (annual safety/roadworthiness check for any vehicle 3+ years old) and back. He's only been able to ride 400 miles in 15 years. 😞 He fitted a new Honda battery yesterday and it fired up first time from cold. He's kept it really well, there's no sign of corrosion anywhere I could find

Clearly a lot of things to check and I'll be stripping her down to take a look see. Full engine service, brake overhaul including caliper strip and I already have a set of HEL braided brake hoses to fit. New R/R too and I'll probably fit a voltmeter. I suspect the forks will need a service and I may fit a Nitron rear shock. Check the fuel tank for rust, check all the hoses and seals etc etc. Plenty of info on here but I reserve the right to ask dumb questions along the way. ☺️

My plan is to keep this in as good condition as I can, low mileage, only ride in the dry and hold onto her in the post-petrol days to come as a tribute to Honda's fabulous engineering.

Wow, That's absolutely beautiful !

Good find there and it's definitely a keeper

Looks like a beauty Skids. I can vouch for the Nitron shock, the 5G that I just bought has one and the ride is superb. 

Congrats on that silver beauty!  🙂

Got her home today, but too late to do anything (6-Nations rugby on today......priorities!!!) so will have to wait until tomorrow/next weekend.

I've started to remove all the plastics so I can give her a deep clean before starting work. I don't think the fairings etc have been removed since it was in the factory.

She's is pretty clean underneath, considering she's been ridden in the weather English but I did notice what looks like a small oil leak and I wondered if the expert eyes on here could determine if the leak is from the bolt holding the sump or is the gasket leaking?

Bear in mind, the oil was last changed 5 1/2 years ago, it is still clear and has done zero miles since then. The only thing is she's been started up on the odd occasion so I wondered if that could have exacerbated a leak???

The oil & filter will be changed anyway at a later date so there is an option to drop the sump and replace the gasket but if I could identify exactly what is leaking, that would help.

Thanks.  :beer:

Other than that, she's pretty clean. No birds or rats nests (I have to remove the fuel tank yet) and so far I'm really pleased. Even has a complete and unused Honda toolkit. 😁

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She's lookin' really good! 

1 hour ago, Cogswell

She's lookin' really good! 

She is. I was expecting deteriorated hoses and rubber etc but it all looks almost new still.

Looks like just from the oil filter removal/install work done on it to me from the pics. 

8 hours ago, bmart

Looks like just from the oil filter removal/install work done on it to me from the pics. 

Yeah I was thinking the same.

Wonder if there is a chance the oil filter seal from previous filter didn't come away with the filter. The old double seal effect, worth checking!

Wipe the area clean, run the engine see if the leak comes back.

Great bike you have Skids hope it serves you well.

As a self taught mechanic that has made the "he didn't check the boss or filter to see if the old gasket was still in place" mistake  :blush:   , I can say from experience that if that were the case, oil would be everywhere!  It makes a gigantic mess . . . LOL!  Somehow it seems that it wouldn't, but when it comes to pressurized oil and gaskets, less is more.  As to the mechanical blunders on my learning curve, it was probably just a notch below the "he didn't replace the drain plug before refilling with oil" goof.  Thank god with the latter the drain pan was still in place - the only damage was to my ego and wallet.   I'm going to guess in this case it was from a filter that needed just a tich more clockwise muscle and seeped a bit over time.  YMMV

Not been able to do much these last 2 weeks and Mrs Skids & I are off on holiday for a week this Sunday so any further plans will have to wait. Fortunately, this is a slow burn project, though it would be nice to ride her in the warmer weather before next winter takes hold again.

The only thing I have been able to do was remove the caked-on grease from the chain and clean out the front sprocket area and the bit above the sidestand where all the crud seems to accumulate. Took a whole tin of chain cleaner, but I got it clean. Caliper servicing kit arrived this week too and speed bleeders should arrive whilst we're away. 

Need to source a R/R from the UK if possible as I've just experienced one of the major drawbacks of Brexit.....Thurn Motorsports (German) parts cost a lot more thanks to import duty.

Despite their lack of wear, I shall be replacing the Bridgestone 020 tyres as well. Never got on with 020's and modern tyres are soooo much better.

Forks & rear shock will be removed and sent for servicing as that is definitely beyond my limited abilities - 21 year-old fork oil does not fill me with confidence.

Quick question: would anyone recommend fitting Iridium spark plugs vs standard ones?

Scotland was a nice break and we even had some lovely weather too but now I know I have to crack on as I really need to get the suspension over to MCT before he gets too busy with the approaching season. So I've removed the forks ready to deliver but the rear shock has to wait until I can get a helper (Mrs Skids) to aid with removing and emptying a half-filled fuel tank so I can access the upper shock mount. Linkage plates came out easily enough though I'm wondering how to torque them back up as there is such little space in there the torque wrench and socket wont fit. I hope it doesn't involve removing the downpipes.

That nice man, Gerhard at Thurn Motorsports delivered the replacement smoked front indicator lenses today so I've fitted those to check them out. In Germany it's illegal to sell LED replacement bulbs so I will have to source some from over here. Can anyone confirm that these would work? Bought the indicators without having to pay import duty (thanks Brexit) because the total cost was under £135. I had to research that to check if the final price would be significantly higher with import tax. Oh for the days when we didn't have to worry about that!

If you look carefully, you can also see the replacement LED headlamp bulbs which arrived whilst we were away. Straight replacement fit, no extra wiring or large fans or anything. Not been able to try them out yet as I've removed the battery from the bike but I will try them before putting the original incandescent bulbs back in for the MoT test. No intention of riding this bike at night, they are for safety as the VFR headlights, being so close together, are a unique sight and LED will only make that more obvious.

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Also, anyone got an opinion on Iridium spark plugs? Worthwhile?

Met Gerhard years ago in person, he's a good guy.

Can't help you on the bulbs.

I fitted Irriudium sparkies on my Honda's, because they last longer and because I could 🙂

My Italians use regular BERU's

They seem to have settled on ~3X the price of traditional units. I just buy regular copper for everything. They work fine and give me a chance to have a look at how they're burning when I replace them. 

Skids, 2/25/2022 at 10:54 PM

Quick question: would anyone recommend fitting Iridium spark plugs vs standard ones?

Hi Skids.

Interesting question. The standard NGK CR9EH-9's have a specified life of 30,000miles. Yet the Iridium replacement CR9EHIX-9 have a life of 50,000miles! Nothing great when you compare that to the 8gen plug a IMR9D-9H having a 100,000mile life.

Maybe not worth it to upgrade the 5th gen! But I guess that depends on how much you enjoy changing plugs!

Cheers.

5 hours ago, Grum

Hi Skids.

Interesting question. The standard NGK CR9EH-9's have a specified life of 30,000miles. Yet the Iridium replacement CR9EHIX-9 have a life of 50,000miles! Nothing great when you compare that to the 8gen plug a IMR9D-9H having a 100,000mile life.

Maybe not worth it to upgrade the 5th gen! But I guess that depends on how much you enjoy changing plugs!

Cheers.

Good point! But then I'm going to have the tops exposed anyway, I need to check the rubber hoses beneath the injectors for any signs of deterioration and I may well delete the PAIR as well.

Not sure I'm going to be putting that many miles on her though.

Do they provide anything else other than a longer service life and bigger hole in yr wallet?

I fitted Iridiums, but only have about 7k miles on the, so can’t say if they’re worth the extra. Difference in UK seems to be about £14 extra (sportsbikeshop)?

FWIW I got my reg/rect from Electrex. They list more than one (and in stock) for our bikes. The ones they have now appear to be different (better?) than what I got (which has been great). Just noticed that they say they can’t be used with lithium batteries so may not be suitable if that mattered to you.

The bike’s a terrific find. I didn’t think there were any like that left around. Have fun.
 

Nice "new" bike mister Skids. Alltough not as nice as a crossrunner. Obviously. ;-)

Skids, 3/11/2022 at 4:04 PM

That nice man, Gerhard at Thurn Motorsports delivered the replacement smoked front indicator lenses today so I've fitted those to check them out.

How are the Thurn indicators? I bought some smoked ones off ebay a couple of years back but only realised recently that the bulb holders don't fit them properly.  The cut outs are in the wrong position (which can be worked around), but it's not possible to turn the bulb holder into the locked position.  They're very tight so they don't seem to move but I doubt the sealing O ring is doing anything.  Are the Thurn ones better?  

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1 hour ago, stuartb3502

How are the Thurn indicators? I bought some smoked ones off ebay a couple of years back but only realised recently that the bulb holders don't fit them properly.  The cut outs are in the wrong position (which can be worked around), but it's not possible to turn the bulb holder into the locked position.  They're very tight so they don't seem to move but I doubt the sealing O ring is doing anything.  Are the Thurn ones better?  

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I've not tried the bulbs yet, I'll have to let you know when I do. 

2 hours ago, voodoo

Nice "new" bike mister Skids. Alltough not as nice as a crossrunner. Obviously. 😉

Luckily, I have both!  :beer:

Managed to get the rear shock out.

Secret was raising the swing arm pretty high then the shock had room to drop through the hole while missing the cat.

Off to the specialists with them as soon as I can.

5 hours ago, Skids

I've not tried the bulbs yet, I'll have to let you know when I do. 

Ok thanks. I wouldn’t expect you’ll have any issues as Thurn seem to have a good rep.

Engine-wise, what do you prefer: vtec or non-vtec?

1 hour ago, voodoo

Engine-wise, what do you prefer: vtec ir non-vtec?

Having both my vote is non-vtec every day of the week and twice on Sunday.  Honda hit its peak with that motor. 

stuartb3502, 3/12/2022 at 4:45 PM

How are the Thurn indicators? I bought some smoked ones off ebay a couple of years back but only realised recently that the bulb holders don't fit them properly.  The cut outs are in the wrong position (which can be worked around), but it's not possible to turn the bulb holder into the locked position.  They're very tight so they don't seem to move but I doubt the sealing O ring is doing anything.  Are the Thurn ones better?  

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No issues, bulb holders and supplied amber bulbs fit perfectly.

Dropped the forks and rear shock with Darren at MCT this morning. As I don't believe they have been touched since they came out of the factory over 21 years ago, I've gone for a full service on the rear, same on the front plus new springs & valves. He says it should only take him a couple of weeks but it'll be the summer before the bike is ready for the road so I'll have to wait to see what magic he can create for me.

He transformed the handling on my 1200F so I trust him to do a great job for the money.

In the future I may fit an aftermarket rear shock, probably Nitron, but I want to wait and see what the serviced OEM shock is like.

Will be interested to hear how you get on. Been wanting to take mine to MCT some time when I can save the pennies. Will have to do a fork service myself before that (also never serviced), but will be interesting to see if he can improve the stock rear with a service or whether aftermarket needed.

4 minutes ago, stuartb3502

Will be interested to hear how you get on. Been wanting to take mine to MCT some time when I can save the pennies. Will have to do a fork service myself before that (also never serviced), but will be interesting to see if he can improve the stock rear with a service or whether aftermarket needed.

Budget-wise, it's a service for me. A Nitron or other will definitely be an improvement but right now, the pennies have to go elsewhere.

15 hours ago, Skids

but right now, the pennies have to go elsewhere.

OMG!  You are not buying a Hardley Ableson are you????  :tongue:

39 minutes ago, Dutchy

OMG!  You are not buying a Hardley Ableson are you????  :tongue:

Are you mad?  :goofy:

No, there are other expenses required on the Fi right now.....new brake pads, caliper overhaul, bling....you know the stuff   :beer:

Talking of bling.....the LED rear taillight arrived this week from Thurn Motorsports and as I can't really do much more today (I need another pair of hands to help with removing the half full fuel tank - may have to resort to draining it the way we were taught in physics at school) I decided to fit it. Really simple and a quality fit too. Very well made product, as you'd expect from a German supplier.

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Fitted the supplied replacement flasher relay too.

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Also ordered a voltmeter and mount. The mount sits around the ignition barrel, a really simple fit. The voltmeter display came in a choice of colours so I choose cool blue. Obviously, I then had to buy a set of replacement LED dash bulbs in blue too.  :cool:

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I love my blue dash lights. I did white gauge faces, too

Today has brought a little progress. Mrs Skids was able to help me remove the fuel tank and then I was able to remove the air filter housing ready to attack the PAIR system once the blanking plates arrive. Spark plugs will be changed as well as they are now easy to get at. Must admit the air filter housing was harder to remove than I recall. The small doobry thing (bypass control solenoid valve 😉) front right beneath the housing which has the #12 & #15 pipes going into it, was a real bugger to remove. I think on my previous 5th Gen I re-routed the pipes so the doobry would lift up easily enough so I could remove the electrical connector with ease. Anyway, it's all apart now. Filter looks pretty good for less than 100 miles on it, however, it was fitted almost 11 years ago! New one should be on its way.

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I do need to ask a question though....I thought the velocity stacks (I think that's the correct term) have 2 little pointers on them which I thought were supposed to be pointed in the same directions (forwards and inwards), yet if you look on the picture below, you can see that they're not. I am 99.9% sure that the velocity stacks have not been touched since they left the factory so is this the way they should be mounted or does it not matter. If it doesn't matter, what are the little marks for?

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I honestly can't see any particular difference regardless of how they're put, but here's the page from the manual:

[image: 51964784320_b1e98fb1a4_c.jpg]Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Hi Skids.

Your mark alignment doesn't look right to the Service Manual picture.

Remove the funnels and make sure you have two short and two long ones.

The rear two for cylinders 1 and 3 = 1 long on the left, 3 short on the right.

The front two for cylinders 2 and 4 = 2 short on the left, 4 long on the right.

Hope this helps, there is a good reason why Honda have configured them that way!

NOTE - This is definitely how they are for a 6gen. Can anyone confirm the 5gen which I'm only assuming would be the same?

Post Edit....Ignore short/long comments 5gen all four are the same.

28 minutes ago, Grum

Hi Skids.

Your mark alignment doesn't look right to the Service Manual picture.

Remove the funnels and make sure you have two short and two long ones.

The rear two for cylinders 1 and 3 = 1 long on the left, 3 short on the right.

The front two for cylinders 2 and 4 = 2 short on the left, 4 long on the right.

Hope this helps, there is a good reason why Honda have configured them that way!

NOTE - This is definitely how they are for a 6gen. Can anyone confirm the 5gen which I'm assuming should be the same?

I know this goes back and forth and people have found different things in their airboxes...in the end, not sure it matters fortunately.  My 2002 was short front, long rear, the first time I opened it (I have tried different arrangements we discussed here way back when).  The parts diagram at Partzilla shows this too -  a short one on the right front (17236-MCW-D00) with a "t" arrow pointing to the left hole, and a long one (17237-MCW-D00) on right rear, with another "t" going to the left rear.

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Parts diagram for a 2009 is the same.  However, heading over to the 2001...

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There is only one component (7) but two part numbers.  Can't tell from Google image search if these are different lengths at all.  I have seen inside a 5th gen air box that had never been opened before, but that was in 2005 and I don't recall what I found.  Since they seem to come with different stack lengths... 🤷‍♂️

It gets super confusing, especially when you bring the service manual pictures in.

Hi Skids.

Ignore what I'd previously posted! its only relevant to the 6gen.

ShipFixer is correct, there is only ONE part number for the intake funnels on a 5gen so all 4 are the same. Only the 6gen appears to have the short/long configuration. The 8gen also has all four intake funnels being the same.

2 hours ago, Grum

Hi Skids.

Ignore what I'd previously posted! its only relevant to the 6gen.

ShipFixer is correct, there is only ONE part number for the intake funnels on a 5gen so all 4 are the same. Only the 6gen appears to have the short/long configuration. The 8gen also has all four intake funnels being the same.

Great, thanks. So it doesn't matter which way the little pointers point then? 

I'm pretty sure my airbox has not been removed before. 

Well, not sure from the photos…the alignment marks are for “something.”  But yours appear to be fully seated into the manifold, and all the same height.  If they are not all fully seated, and aren’t the same total height (bottom of manifold to top of stack), then I would shift it around.  Also doesn’t hurt to do it “just because.”  I’ve actually never noticed the marks that @Grum points out 😄

Voltmeter and mount arrived so I've mounted it to see what it looks like. I think it's pretty good.

ShipFixer, 3/28/2022 at 9:33 PM

Well, not sure from the photos…the alignment marks are for “something.”  But yours appear to be fully seated into the manifold, and all the same height.  If they are not all fully seated, and aren’t the same total height (bottom of manifold to top of stack), then I would shift it around.  Also doesn’t hurt to do it “just because.”  I’ve actually never noticed the marks that @Grum points out 😄

They were fully seated and they felt like they were factory set, if you know what I mean. They all came loose with exactly the same amount of force, same noise, everything and no witness marks anywhere so I'm 99.9% sure that's how they came out of the factory.

I'd still be interested to learn what the little markers are for and why the shop manual has a small diagram with "Air Funnel Direction Mark" on it. 

Looking at the photo and the service manual, the two marks on your funnels are on either side of a screw hole, and the service manual has the marks in between two screw holes.  I got tired of looking at this puzzle but not sure you can line them up as per the manual.  Could be an artifact induced by having two part numbers maybe.
 

Regardless, if everything is seated with no gaps and the total intake runner length is the same on all four, there is no functional way it's wrong.

Busy morning.

PAIR delete. Sadly not Mello Dude's plates but a local guy who also supplied the mounting plate for the voltmeter.

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Connected the voltmeter

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Fitted the suspension. I've stuck with the standard fork positioning but may consider dropping them (actually raising them, I think) 5mm or 10mm but I'll see how she handles after the work done on the by Darren at MCT. Also fitted a battery tender cable. Battery is new, replaced just before I purchased the bike by the PO but will need tending as this bike will not be ridden that often, and certainly not over the winter.

I've just stopped for lunch after draining all the brake lines. Next is removal of the old lines and replacing them with HEL braided steel ones. Looks like a bit of a jumble but each pipe is unique so I should be able to match them with their old ones as each are removed. New OEM Honda pads to be fitted after 3 caliper overhauls...keen to replace the rubber seals after they've been sat unused for so long.

What remains? 

New tyres (to replace 2006 BT020's)

Coolant replace

Oil/filter & air filter replace

Spark plugs

Hi-level end can (probably Black Widow as they are based only 30 mins from me and it does look good).

SS fairing bolts

Probably more but I can't think right now.

Is there a link to Pair Delete work? What it does and how to do it?  That looks tidy...

Coming together nicely Skids.  :fing02:

Question - Do you have both HISS Ignition Keys? If not it would be well worth going through the process of creating a spare.

@Grum yes, both original HISS keys came with the purchase. It may be 21 yo but with <9k miles on the clock, most things are original, hence my efforts .  :beer:

@bmart It is really easy to do on a 5th Gen. Did it originally on my '08 6th Gen so I thought as I have the airbox off, I might as well. The PAIR delete parts came from a UK seller on ebay, who also sold the voltmeter mount. Also came with nice allen bolts and a rubber bung to plug the hole now in the airbox. The PAIR system puts fresh air into the exhaust flow, I think, to help pass emissions regs. Not needed once on a production bike. Not sure it does that much to the bike, but it's one less thing in the way. Much easier to remove the 2 PAIR valve caps with the airbox off though.

There are some Youtube videos but they seem to be mainly 6th Gen and only involve disabling the PAIR, not removing it. 

Here's the HEL kit. Sadly no instructions or markings but it should be easy to tell which goes where. Currently struggling to get the pipes free that run across between the front calipers.

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Does he post to Austria? How much for the kit? Linky, link?

8 hours ago, Bren

Does he post to Austria? How much for the kit? Linky, link?

bertye1958 | eBay Stores

If you just want the single-sided mount, then the 6th Gen one actually fits all HISS models, so the last 2 years of 5th Gen as well. This is the one I bought.

If it's the PAIR delete, then just scroll down his shop.

You'll have to ask him if he posts to Austria, but I'm not sure why he wouldn't.

Thanks for that, it is for the pair delete. I have his advert saved and I messaged him some time ago but he doesn't post to Austria/EU for some reason 😭

Only other option is some dodgy fella from Greece for twice the price!

16 hours ago, Bren

Thanks for that, it is for the pair delete. I have his advert saved and I messaged him some time ago but he doesn't post to Austria/EU for some reason 😭

Only other option is some dodgy fella from Greece for twice the price!

Could you get them sent to someone in the UK who could then forward them to you? Are there any customs/import reasons why that wouldn't work?

Braided brake hoses fitted. A clutch line was included in the kit too, but that will have to wait for another time. Just the callipers to rebuild then fit and bleed.

Great job Skids, lookin really nice. Glad you got the voltmeter wiring sorted to.

She'll be the envious desire of every 5gen aficionado.

Cheers :fing02:

These little beauties arrived today 😎

Far better to anneal the copper by heating and drop in water 

1 hour ago, Thumbs

Far better to anneal the copper by heating and drop in water 

:huh:

She's all done (for now).

In no particular order:

·       Full brake caliper strip & clean

·       New caliper seals

·       Fit braided brake hoses

·       Clutch bleed/braided hoses

·       New brake pads (Honda)

·       Front & rear suspension service

·       LED lights conversion all round

·       Blue LED dashboard lighting

·       Fit voltmeter

·       New Iridium spark plugs

·       New oil/filter

·       New air filter

·       Coolant flush

·       PAIR delete

·       Snorkel & flapper mod

·       SV’s

·       New Metzeller Roadtec 1 tyres front & rear

·       Techspec tank grips

·       CF-look chain cover/hugger

·       SS bolts (fairing, axle + pinch bolts, brake disc bolts)

·       Mirror extenders

·       CF-look fuel filler, tank pad & key cowl vinyl

·       New number plate

Still to do/considering at some point:

·       Hi-level end can + VFRD headers

·       PC III

·       Mosfet r/r

·       Find & fit clear LED indicator bulbs (flash orange)

·       New number plate

·       Comfort seat (Top Sellerie)

·       Brake levers

·       louder horn

·       16-tooth front sprocket

·       Oxford Products sat nav mount on steering stem

Most of the above is blingy, very little has made the bike lighter or more powerful but that wasn't the aim, mainly because I have neither the knowledge or skills to accomplish the sort of things Mohawk and others have managed to do. The main point was to refurbish a bike that hadn't really been ridden for 16 years and keep it such that it will still be as rideable in 20 years time.

I've yet to go on a decent ride with her as it's been 34 deg C / 90 deg F yesterday and today so a little too warm for my liking but I will be getting her out for a good run soon.

Massive thanks to all those who have proffered advice, you know who you are, this was a big thing for me and she's pretty much turned out as I wanted, so thanks.  :beer:

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@Skids I hope there was an upgraded R/R somewhere in there? 😉

1 hour ago, ducnut

@Skids I hope there was an upgraded R/R somewhere in there? 😉

Oooh yes that is on my other list, just forgot it. 

Looks great. Got a link for the LED headlamp bulbs? 

Thanks, 

Justin 

6 hours ago, jroberts427

Looks great. Got a link for the LED headlamp bulbs? 

Thanks, 

Justin 

Justin, no I didn't keep a link to where I purchased them but here's the box with a QR code.

Plug and play.

Great work, @Skids!!  I like the fresh look of the clear lenses, too.  👍

Took her out for a bit of a run this morning, just to make sure everything is working as it should.

I'd forgotten just how smooth and flexible this engine is. I don't know what exactly is responsible but it is butter smooth at low revs/low speed. I can sit there happily in 1st or 2nd at 25000rpm purely on the throttle and she's easy to control. I'm guessing that the 'new' Starter Valve balance sequence has done the job but maybe it's a combination of all the things. Who knows. Either way, the engine is a peach.

The brakes are also phenomenal. Not quite the planet-stopping power of the 1200 brakes, but not far behind and I love the balanced braking you can get when gently slowing using the linked-brakes; I'd completely forgotten about that as neither of my other 2 VFRs has it.

Suspension is very stiff, at least compared to what I'm used to on the Crossrunner. Felt every single bump on the back roads, but she feels very solid. I may have to play around to see if turn in a little quicker.

All-in-all, so pleased. Thanks all for the help.   :beer:

Would be interested to know about the HEL lines. I had a 2001 model some years back and removed the dual brake setup as I felt it never worked, and wanted to install braided lines. The brakes felt a bit wooden but ok. I just got a 1999 50th year model, 11k miles, super condition. Like you I've had it in pieces and its 100%. I am keen to replace the ageing rubber lines but this time retain the Dual setup. I have a Haynes and am no stranger to brake bleeding. Was the dual bleed a real PITA?

I also have a 1200 as a daily ride (replacing 2001 800) and its great. Its my 2nd 1200. If you are into slight modifying, I found the SebSteef ECU flash a vast improvement, and I also got a DAM end can. 

Your 800 looks lovely BTW!!! Hoping to get out on my "new" 800 in October while its still dry and cooler.

Meant to say, recently I have been taking brake lines to a company in Dorking called VenHill. They do kits, but you can also take what you need to them and they literally copy the same length etc. The connecting ends swivel and lock so you can get the pipe route just right.