Rear Brake Bleed (Delinked/De-linked) - Caliper Mounting?

Hi Folks,

It's been a LONG time since I bled the brakes and I can't remember what I did when I installed the lines for the delinking (de-linking).

According to the bottom of page 15 - 9 of the Service Manual, it says "Reinstall the brake caliper onto the brake disc."

Are you supposed to just slip the caliper over the disc and let it sit there loosely?

Any other tips are most welcome.

Thanks!

Put the caliper bolts in and gently snug them is good enough until you're done.   The idea is to have a rotor between the pads to keep the pistons from extending so far they'll pop out.... and to avoid overfill of the reservoirs if you were to do it off the rotors and push the pistons back in.  Well, you should only top off the reservoirs after you're all done and have things buttoned up.

17 hours ago, raYzerman

Put the caliper bolts in and gently snug them is good enough until you're done.   The idea is to have a rotor between the pads to keep the pistons from extending so far they'll pop out.... and to avoid overfill of the reservoirs if you were to do it off the rotors and push the pistons back in.  Well, you should only top off the reservoirs after you're all done and have things buttoned up.

In the images at the top and bottom of page 15-13 of the service manual, you can see that the caliper is rotated 180° and placed on the disc so that the banjo bolts are facing to the right. No mention is made, however, about making the reversed mounting secure to prevent the caliper sliding off the disc.

It seems secure enough and I can put something underneath to prevent it falling but I was wondering if there was something missing from the instructions that would have made the procedure fail-safe.

Nothing "missing" actually. Years ago when I worked in dealership land, I asked reps from Yamaha, Suzuki, etc about similar questions throughout service manuals.

Was reminded the manuals were written for service people and not the general public, and a certain amount of "common knowledge" was expected to be applied from the mechanics.

So in the case of the rear caliper flipped and put on the rotor, Honda would expect the tech to either not use enuff force for the caliper to fall during the bleeding process, or secure it in some fashion to prevent said falling off.

Yup, a very lightly tightened calliper bolt through one of the disk holes will secure it in place.

And I think you meant Chapter 15 of the SM, not 5.  :beer:

5 hours ago, Skids

Yup, a very lightly tightened calliper bolt through one of the disk holes will secure it in place.

And I think you meant Chapter 15 of the SM, not 5.  :beer:

Oops , corrected, thanks!

@interceptor69 FYI

@Skids

So, as per the TroubleShooting on page 15-4, I have a Brakelever/pedalhard situation.

The Rod of the Master Cylinder only moves about 5mm which is how it always has been since I delinked (de-linked) and installed Braided Lines as supplied with the De-Linking Kit that I bought from www.321ignition.co.uk in late 2004. They appear to be defunct now.

I opened the Centre Bleed Screw, first, More than 1 turn and attempted pumping the foot pedal but no fluid was coming out. I then did the same thing or the Outer Bleed Screw with the same result.

This would appear to indicate a Clogged/restricted fluid passage symptom.

So, would the next step be to remove the Banjo Connectors at the Master Cylinder to inspect what happens then when depressing the foot pedal?

Which part of the Master Cylinder could be the likely failure point?

Thanks!

Sorry, no clue m8, I've never seen a de-linked system so wouldn't know where to start. 

1 hour ago, Skids

Sorry, no clue m8, I've never seen a de-linked system so wouldn't know where to start. 

How much does the tip of your brake foot pedal move downwards?

Off Topic:

What does MBD mean?

Thanks!

Multiple Bike Disorder

15 minutes ago, Skids

Multiple Bike Disorder

Ah, I remember now. 😄

I had that once. Well, still do actually with the human powered type.