Just contemplating lowering the triple clamps by 3mm to make the effect of the steering input quicker. Any views?
I like the stability of the bike but would like a bit extra responsiveness to adjust the line mid corner to avoid potholes and gravel.
I jacked up the back of the GSXR by 5mm and got a massive improvement for 'flickability' without comprising straight line stability, but doing the same on the VFR is a bit more involved due to shock mount location.
Alternatively I suppose I could go and do strength training...
Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input.
Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners.
Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input.
Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners.
Since we don't know each other, it's safer to ask.
At 12kmi, your standard head bearings are in need of service and possible replacement. Were they inspected when the forks were serviced?
Have you set the suspension up properly for your weight and riding style?
The short answer is yes, lowering the front end of your bike will steepen the rake angle and shrink the trail value which will make the bike steer quicker. 3mm is not a significant change.
Conversely, if your rear shock is collapsed, overworked, or otherwise insufficient for the task(as most oem are), the rear of your bike will be sitting lower than intended. This will cause the opposite of the effect you're looking for. Compensating for this by lowering the front is a band aid fix and can cause other issues like ground clearance and wallowing of the chassis.
I'm not trying to talk you out of modifying or improving your bike... I've got more money and time and extra parts in my VFR than anyone really should... I'm trying to help you make it the best it can be...
Thanks Sebspeed, all understood and no offence taken.
The head bearings were checked when the forks were serviced and found to be in good shape. I also had the suspension professionally set up last Summer ( well checked actually as I'd already got it almost bang on).
I'm going to experiment with a little more pressure in the front tyre as raYzerman suggested to see what difference that makes. Depending on that, I'll then consider dropping the triples slightly and see what difference that makes. As I said earlier I'm only looking for a marginal change. Cheers!
Try not to fix one problem with creating another. If you have a suspension or geometry issue, PSI won't fix it even if it makes it "feel" better under normal circumstances.
I'd start with the right spring rates, sag, and damping adjustment. Modifying geometry before that won't likely give you a good result under any stressed conditions. And having a bike set up properly for you is so much more enjoyable, and safe, to ride.
I would add setting up controls, as most of them point to the sky creating all kinds of bad body position.
Get good body position, still critical for normal on road duties.
Then geometry.
Then ergos.
It sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't, and the outcome is so much better!
Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
End of thread · 11 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 17 Jul 2024