I wanted to start a post where anyone can come and say what they did to their bike. Or what they are doing, or plan to do. This can start some really good discussions, ideas. and learning. Example would be if someone works on their air filter it could remind others to check theirs.
What did you do to your VFR Today?
I’ll go first. Yesterday I replaced clutch and brake fluids along with a coolant change since the bike is 4 years old. I am planning on installing a K&N filter when it arrives tomorrow.
I rode it to work !!!!
I looked at it while I put the new shoes on the cb500x. I got new shoes for the VFR, just have to have them mounted.
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2 hours ago, SweeperI looked at it while I put the new shoes on the cb500x. I got new shoes for the VFR, just have to have them mounted.
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Grace's "Halfrica Twin" (Sweeper copyright) is looking good with those new shoes. Time is counting down before you will need the VFR done. 5 months(ish) and counting!
I looked at her all tucked up in the shed nice n warm, wishing it was warm enough to go out for a spin, turned round, and nearly went on my arse on the ice.
Been fabbing up tail tidy's - I steal shamelessly, so am pretty much coping what was done here before - only with some LED's! :) Now that I have the Delky and Hugger, time to hack that tail section up on my brand new bike!
Spent money on snowy day projects!
Added some more dirt to mine. The exhaust smells lovely with all the caked-on crud, burning gently in the cool night air :smile:
I fitted my new SC Projects Titanium Conic Carbon Cap exhaust.
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...........
Replaced both headlights (blew both low beams)
Replaced a faulty LED T10 in the dash too
Getting speedier taking that nose off
Practise makes perfect..... :goofy:
This week's mud collection. Fortunately my cheapo LED auxiliary lights still shine through all the dirt!
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PetePower I fitted my new SC Projects Titanium Conic Carbon Cap exhaust.
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Does it make a little bit of noise or is it quiet as an Akra or Arrow?
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I apologized to my VFR today for only riding her once since I got my convertible about a month ago (see below). I felt guilty for neglecting her so I took her for a quick ride around the block :tongue:
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/qEnq3cCa_Sc?feature=oembed]I said thank you to my 800X as I gave her another wash (3rd this week I think) for completing another week of 100+ mile commutes without a falter, in comfort and relaxed progress and hoped that she felt good after her 16k service & new c&s.
I patted the tank on my 1200F and told her to stand fast and don't worry, the better weather is coming.....sometime.
Ordered gaskets and the like as prep for taking the heads off and checking the valves. Judging from my idle, I've probably got a few out of alignment, so not looking forward to having to buy shims and lifters later >_<
Still, gotta be done, as it's already at 26k and I've got no guarantee the previous owner did anything more than hastily slap on a few ill-conceived mods
This.
Thanks Seb.
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Very nice VFROZ... and Seb.
Are they rubberised toe pieces?
12 hours ago, Vee-Ef-ArVery nice VFROZ... and Seb.
Are they rubberised toe pieces?
No, anodised alloy.
Just checked again, no, they are a hard plastic type material.
The stainless bolt goes all the way to the end of tip.
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Spent some time today looking for an answer to what this bolt does. Still no answer. I’ve looked thru the service manual 4 times the owners manual twice and search the inter webs for part numbers and still no luck so I figure I’d ask here.
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1 hour ago, Amoreira88[image: f6a8911301244011986cec238eba86b1.jpg]
Spent some time today looking for an answer to what this bolt does. Still no answer. I’ve looked thru the service manual 4 times the owners manual twice and search the inter webs for part numbers and still no luck so I figure I’d ask here.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Amoreira88.
You worry for nothing! You are looking at the Alternator cover so it would only be a form of plug, as to why Honda have included it God only knows, but given its the Alternator cover can't imagine there would be any adjustment or anything else under the bolt.
Cheers.
29 minutes ago, GrumHi Amoreira88.
You worry for nothing! You are looking at the Alternator cover so it would only be a form of plug, as to why Honda have included it God only knows, but given its the Alternator cover can't imagine there would be any adjustment or anything else under the bolt.
Cheers.
i just want to remove / replace it because its rusty but i dont want to let out the magic smoke if i dont have to.
Strange, it shows in the fiche, no separate part for the bolt, and no mention of that bolt in the service manual either as far as I can tell.
Maybe Honda's engineers designed an additional cooling line to the altenator. But the beancounters put a stop to it; albeit too late for the already produced covers..... :-)
Maybe it holds the metal tab that helps pin the cables to the cover. Used to be on the inside but maybe no room in there now with the new set up.
We have an X-file folks!
jhenley17, 13/01/2018 at 3:30 AM
Does it make a little bit of noise or is it quiet as an Akra or Arrow?
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I haven't heard the Arrow or Apra on a VFR. I did last week with the DB Killer in and it was very nice and probably loud enough. But, this week the DB Killer came out and it is awesome, it wont be going back in. Its loud but not overly and the rumble when down shifting is fantastic.
Installed a new rear tire and exhaust since it’s easy to do both at the same time.
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Changed the oil and the air filter. It was pretty dirty.
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Added SHAD bags. Pretty sure they are wider than stock but they were less $ than stock and will serve their purpose--I hope.
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I went out to the garage. Fiddled with this, cleaned that. Watched the battery tender light blink... *sigh*
11 hours ago, ZetaAdded SHAD bags. Pretty sure they are wider than stock but they were less $ than stock and will serve their purpose--I hope.
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What are the attachment frame rails like?
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Cheers.
Auspanglish, 15/01/2018 at 8:32 AMMaybe it holds the metal tab that helps pin the cables to the cover. Used to be on the inside but maybe no room in there now with the new set up.
We have an X-file folks!
It's not a left-over from the 6th gen having the coolant bottle right there, is it?
Edit; Just looked up the parts fiche for a 6th gen 2005 like wot I used to have, and the bolt isn't there...
VFROZ, 1/14/2018 at 2:04 AMThis.
Thanks Seb.
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Very nice! What model year?
Well I took my 6 Gen to go have lunch with my business partner, not meaning to rub it in but good god! It's fricken 80F here in So Cal, it's supposed to be winter! Yesterday two record highs were broken in LA proper.
It's a 2001, and now waiting for my 8 spoker to finish it off for now.
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"for now" being the operative word here :goofy:
Hmm winter in UK, dark and potholed country lanes so time to upgrade the lighting.
Built these from some 50mm spotlights and some old/redundant indicator units. Not wired in yet discovered I need to remove the whole top fairing for that.
I'll report back when I have finished, painted, properly installed and wired them in.
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I lifted both wheels off the ground using my new Abba Superbike Stand (and the optional front wheel lift). $275 including shipping from England. Arrived in 6 business days.
I bought it because I had a very close call with my Pit bull rear-wheel paddock stand. My bike was on the rear pit bull stand only. While I was reinstalling the radiator guard (lying on my garage floor), I turned the front wheel to get a better look at one of the screws…AND THE BIKE STARTED TO TIP OVER! I’ve never been able to bench press more than 180lbs, so I would have been in serious trouble if I hadn’t started pushing back before it went past the point of no return.
I’ll still use my rear pit bull stand, but I’ll use the front stand at the same time.
The big advantage of the Abba stand is that it unloads the rear shock and allows the fork to move freely as well…great for working on the shock or forks.
1 hour ago, BlueTravelerWhat brand and size is your Tail bag looks very neat and the perfect size. I notice you must also have a Tank bag as it looks like a fuel cap locking ring is fitted?
So glad in OZ they all have the Cntr stand as standard.
I installed a new RR, SH847 from Jack @ Roadster cycle, talk about a top notch guy and product. .
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I did a double whammy. I used the Pit Bull 'Tire Wedge' accessory I got for Christmas with my front stand, when I swapped out the current wheels that have the Michelins on them with the spare wheels that have the Pirelli Super Corsas on them. The Pirellis were originally destined for the Duc but decided to put them on the spare VFR wheels so I can try them with either VFR and I took the Bridgestone S21s that were on the 01 VFR on the Duc. Seemed like a fair swap.
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Would like to get your guys thought on my new head lights .
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That my friend, looks shit....
Sorry, but it is truly abysmal imho.. Wanna look like a police/firefighter vehicle?
Note that I had negative comments on my christmas trees as well and I couldn't care less :goofy:
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12 hours ago, PetePowerWhat brand and size is your Tail bag looks very neat and the perfect size. I notice you must also have a Tank bag as it looks like a fuel cap locking ring is fitted?
So glad in OZ they all have the Cntr stand as standard.
SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection QUICK-LOCK EVO City Non-Electric Tank Bag
SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection Slipstream Tail Bag
Both bags fit like they were made for the bike! I used bulk elastic shockcord to fasten the tail bag to the seat (available from REI in the US). Here's a recent picture of them in the wild...
1 hour ago, DutchyThat my friend, looks shit....
Sorry, but it is truly abysmal imho.. Wanna look like a police/firefighter vehicle?
Note that I had negative comments on my christmas trees as well and I couldn't care less :goofy:
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I appreciate your honesty opinion.
That's what (VFR)friends are for............. :beer:
Hey VFRunner, from an artistic standpoint, I think your lights look cool - you might eat a ticket though...
5 minutes ago, SamuelxHey VFRunner, from an artistic standpoint, I think your lights look cool - you might eat a ticket though...
I installed a switch to turn on and off . The daytime running lights come on once I turn off the halos witch there is no colour only white . If I see a cop lights go off lol
Nothing, nothing at all.
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Rode another 102 mile commute, some of it in freezing rain, with absolutely no issues whatsoever. :beer:
28 minutes ago, SkidsRode another 102 mile commute, some of it in freezing rain, with absolutely no issues whatsoever. :beer:
Haha
Added my Shad top case today to complete luggage set up: [image: IMG_2692.thumb.JPG.ec951cb98d084300ec0310186b150a61.JPG][image: IMG_2693.thumb.JPG.2af69bcf9d965f5e9b0ffb75eaf282ae.JPG][image: IMG_2694.thumb.JPG.eaa6562a972afe1d0647e98ac59ed1bb.JPG]
21 hours ago, RVFRI installed a new RR, SH847 from Jack @ Roadster cycle, talk about a top notch guy and product. .
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At the risk of seeming pedantic, I thought this was a thread about 8th gen bikes.
Anyway, are those marine grade crimps I see on the alternator input wires?
45 minutes ago, RectaltronicsAt the risk of seeming pedantic, I thought this was a thread about 8th gen bikes.
Anyway, are those marine grade crimps I see on the alternator input wires?
I think the title of the thread appears at a higher level than in what category the thread was posted in...the genie is out of the bottle now though.
Seems straightforward to me...
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You need to powdercoat the chassis, forks , footrest assemblies and Sebspeed clutch window bits in the same gold as the rims to really set it off!!
Skids Rode another 102 mile commute, some of it in freezing rain, with absolutely no issues whatsoever. [image: emoji481.png]What equipment do you wear, including boots, gloves and helmet? Any other accessories? Heated components beyond grips? If so, Where do you plug them in?
2 hours ago, RectaltronicsSeems straightforward to me...
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What I mean is, members treat the title as being at a higher level than the category...change the title to ‘What did you do to your 8 Gen VFR today?’ and problem solved.
1 hour ago, AuspanglishYou need to powdercoat the chassis, forks , footrest assemblies and Sebspeed clutch window bits in the same gold as the rims to really set it off!!
But, these are the spare wheels!
6 hours ago, ZetaAdded my Shad top case today to complete luggage set up: [image: IMG_2692.thumb.JPG.ec951cb98d084300ec0310186b150a61.JPG][image: IMG_2693.thumb.JPG.2af69bcf9d965f5e9b0ffb75eaf282ae.JPG][image: IMG_2694.thumb.JPG.eaa6562a972afe1d0647e98ac59ed1bb.JPG]
Dam shows are some nice love handles. Are they carbon fiber ?
58 minutes ago, VFRUNNERDam shows are some nice love handles. Are they carbon fiber ?
Thanks...fake carbon fiber, these faux panels are interchangeable for other colors. Wanted the Honda bags but this whole system was <$700, to good to pass up and after all they are just a tool for long distance travel.
5 hours ago, RectaltronicsSeems straightforward to me...
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So you're excluding me cos I have high bars? :sad: :wink:
4 hours ago, Auspanglish12 hours ago, Skids Rode another 102 mile commute, some of it in freezing rain, with absolutely no issues whatsoever. [image: emoji481.png]What equipment do you wear, including boots, gloves and helmet? Any other accessories? Heated components beyond grips? If so, Where do you plug them in?
I thought I was up early this morning! Yikes!
I wear a Rukka Armax suit, thermal liner in the trousers. Altberg Roadrunner boots with New Zealand Merino Wool socks, Richa Cold Protect GTX gloves, Keis heated fleece, Merino Wool & Under Armour base layer, OEM heated grips (crap), Barkbuster BBZ handguards. Keis heated jacket is plugged via a lead to the OEM accessory socket under the seat.
I'm a Capricorn with a sunny outlook, my most inspirational person was my Dad, and I most wish for World Peace.
Anything else? :goofy:
1 hour ago, SkidsI'm a Capricorn with a sunny outlook, my most inspirational person was my Dad, and I most wish for World Peace.
Anything else? :goofy:
Show us yer tits hen!!!! :goofy:
18 hours ago, Duc2V4What I mean is, members treat the title as being at a higher level than the category...change the title to ‘What did you do to your 8 Gen VFR today?’ and problem solved.
Seriously, that's absurd. Why bother having any organization of discussions on this system in the first place?
I guess I can start putting all my 8th gen pictures and questions in the 3rd and 4th gen area as long as I include the text "4th gen" in the title??
EDIT: This area seems to be a more appropriate place for a catch-all VFR thread.
BlueTraveler, 2/1/2018 at 6:38 AMSW-MOTECH Bags-Connection QUICK-LOCK EVO City Non-Electric Tank Bag
SW-MOTECH Bags-Connection Slipstream Tail Bag
Both bags fit like they were made for the bike! I used bulk elastic shockcord to fasten the tail bag to the seat (available from REI in the US). Here's a recent picture of them in the wild...
Oh Like that picture put it in the vfrd gallery so I can feature it on the homepage
2 hours ago, HispanicSlammerOh Like that picture put it in the vfrd gallery so I can feature it on the homepage
Sweet setup! Beautiful riding in your area. I lived and taught school in Manitou Springs for 5 yrs--miss it every day, especially the riding.
3 hours ago, HispanicSlammerOh Like that picture put it in the vfrd gallery so I can feature it on the homepage
Thanks Slammer! I just created a gallery and uploaded a few pics.
7 hours ago, RectaltronicsSeriously, that's absurd. Why bother having any organization of discussions on this system in the first place?
I guess I can start putting all my 8th gen pictures and questions in the 3rd and 4th gen area as long as I include the text "4th gen" in the title??
EDIT: This area seems to be a more appropriate place for a catch-all VFR thread.
Wow! You’re really upset by this aren’t you? All I’m saying is that the title was leading members to post what they were doing with their VFR, regardless of it was an 8 Gen or not. My point was, if the title was more specific, I don’t think it would have lead members to post their non 8 Gen pics, me included, as the category is something that is less noticed than the title. I wasn’t actually saying to change it, I was joking.
The main reason for the categories is for technical questions, things that are usually specific to a generation, i.e. VTEC motor specific questions, like cam chains and VTEC valve inspections. Things that are not relevant or specific to a generation or “generic” as this title appears to be, leaves the door open to members posting something there.
What would be absurd, is if there was a ‘What did you do to your VFR today?’ thread for each generation. For one, I’m sure the server won’t let you create a thread title with the same name, the other would be utter confusion. Maybe moving this thread to a more general category would make this apparent issue go away.
I like viewing "What did you do to your VFR Today"--no matter the generation.
I wondered what the new owner has done with it.
Hoped it's treating him well, and he's liking it as much as I did.
Ordered a lithium ion battery to trim a little weight up high on the bike. Will post weight savings this weekend.
Will be ordering a new back wheel soon as well, sticking with stock as I haven't been able to locate and aftermarket lighter options.
Cheers!
How do these lithium batteries work in the colder climes?
10 minutes ago, finkHow do these lithium batteries work in the colder climes?
Most have a higher cold crank (CC) output
2 minutes ago, boOZZIEMost have a higher cold crank (CC) output
Have heard various stories, research regarding battery failures.
I've had my SSB li for 4/5 years now with no probs. Starts like a champ in winter 0°c
3 hours ago, mountainslideOrdered a lithium ion battery to trim a little weight up high on the bike. Will post weight savings this weekend.
Will be ordering a new back wheel soon as well, sticking with stock as I haven't been able to locate and aftermarket lighter options.
Cheers!
Dymag carbon wheels £2150+
8 minutes ago, boOZZIEI've had my SSB li for 4/5 years now with no probs. Starts like a champ in winter 0°c
When have you guys has negative C in daylight hours? P
Emailed Dymag directly and they indicated no fitment options. Do you know otherwise?
3 hours ago, mountainslideEmailed Dymag directly and they indicated no fitment options. Do you know otherwise?
Nope. I just googled "dymag honda vfr800" and it took me to a page with all details and options
Ahhhh so sorry u r 8g
3 hours ago, finkWhen have you guys has negative C in daylight hours? P
-1/-2 at about 6am on my way to work other than that I'd have to go to the mountains
8 hours ago, boOZZIE-1/-2 at about 6am on my way to work other than that I'd have to go to the mountains
Would have been nice to have that the other day at lunchtime. BRRRRRRRRRRRR
fink, 2/6/2018 at 6:29 PMHave heard various stories, research regarding battery failures.
Your Mileage May Vary.
If in cold weather, I've heard incidents of folks freaking out when their engines failed to crank, but not understanding that the batteries need to warm up first and that you warm up the battery by leaning on the starter button for several seconds.
Duc2V4, 2/3/2018 at 12:19 AMWow! You’re really upset by this aren’t you? All I’m saying is that the title was leading members to post what they were doing with their VFR, regardless of it was an 8 Gen or not. My point was, if the title was more specific, I don’t think it would have lead members to post their non 8 Gen pics, me included, as the category is something that is less noticed than the title. I wasn’t actually saying to change it, I was joking.
The main reason for the categories is for technical questions, things that are usually specific to a generation, i.e. VTEC motor specific questions, like cam chains and VTEC valve inspections. Things that are not relevant or specific to a generation or “generic” as this title appears to be, leaves the door open to members posting something there.
What would be absurd, is if there was a ‘What did you do to your VFR today?’ thread for each generation. For one, I’m sure the server won’t let you create a thread title with the same name, the other would be utter confusion. Maybe moving this thread to a more general category would make this apparent issue go away.
I made this post so that all VFR people can talk about what they did that day to their bike. Anytime you head out to your garage and turn a wrench you want to tell someone who cares about it. And when people listen people learn and can help out if needed. It happens to be in Gen 8 because that’s what I own.
Put some Carbon Fiber HRC stickers on my bike.
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1 minute ago, weee06I made this post so that all VFR people can talk about what they did that day to their bike. Anytime you head out to your garage and turn a wrench you want to tell someone who cares about it. And when people listen people learn and can help out if needed. It happens to be in Gen 8 because that’s what I own.
That was my assumption but someone here felt it was meant for 8 gens because it was in the 8 gen section. I was just pointing out that titles seen on the main page are what members look at, not necessarily the section it was posted in and usually the member has already started posting or has already posted, when they notice that. It's happened countless times.
What I was trying to convey, is that if a thread was really meant for a particular generation, it's usually for a technical question regarding that generation. Titles that are "generic", like yours, can be anywhere and if they are within a certain generation, the post may not actually be specific to that generation. So thank you for helping me point this out. It's a great thread topic and one that SHOULD be shared among all VFR generation owners, regardless of if its in the 8 Gen section.
Cheers!
I've been a VFR forum participant long enough to see this particular scenario play out more than once. Model-specific sub forums are great for sharing model-specific information and problems, but they also facilitate the formation of little cliques (especially regarding the "latest" generation, for some reason). That's life!
Ciao,
Filled her belly this morning with some V-Power before filling my own belly with some greasy BK for breakfast - beautiful riding weather today.
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Broke the ice off the shed lock and spent 2 hours cleaning the chain
I was going to wash it but the bucket was frozen to the floor
Not much, I was at work. About 5 mins after that you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face due to a whiteout.
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Hi. Recently purchased a 2017 VFR800 from an auction with the front end smashed in.....and off for many parts. Rebuilding it. Can anyone tell me what this turn handle at the end of the steering stem is for? Thanks
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5 minutes ago, MozzaHi. Recently purchased a 2017 VFR800 from an auction with the front end smashed in.....and off for many parts. Rebuilding it. Can anyone tell me what this turn handle at the end of the steering stem is for? Thanks
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That’s a RAM mount, which is used to mount accessories to, using their attachments.
Thanks mate :smile:
7 hours ago, MozzaHi. Recently purchased a 2017 VFR800 from an auction with the front end smashed in.....and off for many parts. Rebuilding it. Can anyone tell me what this turn handle at the end of the steering stem is for? Thanks
Hi Mozza
Hope you got BOTH of the ignition keys. You have the HISS - Honda Ignition Security System. Suggest if you only got one key you imeadiately purchase and program a spare key. If you lose your one and only key OR the internal transponder chip fails, you'll be up for a new ECM with matching keys.
I also have that exact same Ram Ball mount, to which I have attached a Garmin GPS mount. You will find the ball mount will require continual tightening, bit by bit over many months before it finally settles in and stops moving around. Good Luck with the rebuild.
Cheers.
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Them steering stem ram mount suk. As they will rotate. Why wait and be annoyed for months. Use the tank bolts instead...
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Dutchy Them steering stem ram mount suk. As they will rotate. Why wait and be annoyed for months. Use the tank bolts instead...Hey Leon, I bet the ram mount I sent you would fit in the stem of that vtr, then no rotation problems
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Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
Let me clarify:
The original RAMmount (tm) that uses a rubber plug with a nut at the bottom, that subsequently expands the rubber plug, suks..
Huntingunns uses a different technigue that indeed makes it rock solid.
As redslut's fuel tank can vouch for
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(it did crack a bit at the bottom though... :-) )
Duc2V4, 2/10/2018 at 6:15 PMIt's a great thread topic and one that SHOULD be shared among all VFR generation owners, regardless of if its in the 8 Gen section.
And that's exactly why it should have been in a more general section of the web site such as VFR Info.
Owners of 3rd gen, 4th gen, 5th gen, etc. bikes may never peek into the 8th gen section. No reason to unless they're shopping for one!
Received new rear OEM wheel. 13.88 lbs in case anyone wondered.
6 hours ago, mountainslideReceived new rear OEM wheel. 13.88 lbs in case anyone wondered.
With or without the tire ?, brake disk mounted ? Axle ? Etc
Washed it. It's red, I had forgotten...
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knight designs installed...test ride in a few
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Those Knight lowering pegs look comfy.
No vibrations?
Does the side stand hit the left one when in the retracted position?
Those Knight lowering pegs look comfy?
Vibrations?
Does the side stand hit it when up?
Did BLS get a knighthood??? :tongue:
Had the wheels powder coated to match 8th gen red. They came out great...smooth and shiny. Surprisingly inexpensive.
The brown wheels just weren't cutting it!
Looks great I have to say with the white body
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Interesting lights. Especially that you put them on the forks/fender. I am assuming to light the road better in a turn. Would be curious to see how well that works IRL. Any chance for a vid? Some additional pics would be nice to share also! :)
I've been changing the thermostat past couple of days. Yesterday was reassembly and that was a slight PITA. Three connectors that I had NO idea where to connect :D
The idle setting thingy on the right hand side of the bike isn't really turning but I haven't been fiddling with it so I don't know if it ever was, plus it got shorter so I must've routed it poorly.
Next phase is filling up the coolant system and see if I fitted all the hoses in a good manner, my god I'm nervous.
/R
Had my maintenance guys fab up some bar risers, look stock, and a tail tidy. They were bored, I was busy. It's nice being the boss. Anyhoo, got her out for the first time with new attachments in 5 months. Now looking to add an Ixil slip on. Badassery at its finest.
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1 hour ago, KukeHad my maintenance guys fab up some bar risers, look stock, and a tail tidy. They were bored, I was busy. It's nice being the boss. Anyhoo, got her out for the first time with new attachments in 5 months. Now looking to add an Ixil slip on. Badassery at its finest.
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Bike looks a Gem. The IXIL which I love and have on my Red Lady, looks particularly nice on the White, great choice, not overly expensive either.
Cheers.
I got my new suspension dialed in perfectly (or perfect for me, anyway).
Hey there guys and gals! I simply could not stand the stock suspension on the “new” 2014 Standard that I bought last October. The front was so stiff, with so much stiction, that I asked the dealer to double check it before I took delivery. And, the rear shock would launch me off the seat over every sharp-edge (high speed) bump I hit, and it barely moved over anything but the largest low-speed bumps. I put a couple thousand miles on the bike, hoping that both ends would loosen up. They didn’t.
The consensus on the VFR forums was that the Deluxe forks worked well, so I upgraded my non-adjustable Standard forks to the somewhat-adjustable Deluxe forks. I also switched to 7.5 wt. oil, and installed low-stiction, SKF green fork seals. As it turned out, I didn’t need to replace the seals. When I had the forks off the bike, with the springs out, there was no stiction. The problem was probably due to improper setup out of the crate. You know how you’re supposed to leave the left axle pinch bolt loose and pump the front end to let the sliders find their ideal spread? That clearly wasn’t done. Anyway, the lighter oil along with the proper fork alignment has the front end working beautifully.
The consensus on the stock shock was that it was too harsh. There is very little info on the forums about upgrading it though. Here’s how I decided to tackle it: I ordered a Penske 8975 “double-clicker” from Traxxion Dynamics. It arrived with a 1,000 lb. Hyperpro spring that turned out to be too stiff for my sport touring riding style. I had to back off the preload to just about zero to get 30 mm of rider sag, and no matter how far I backed off the compression damping, the suspension only moved a couple of inches…no matter what I rode over (curbs, speed bumps, 90 mph dips). Both Traxxion and Penske were great to work with and they sent out a 900 lb. spring without making me return the 1,000 lb. spring first. That did the trick. I’ve got both ends working together, and working well. It’s the perfect compromise between touring compliance and sporty control. https://www.penskeshocks.com/product/8975-in-line-double-adjustable/
The Penske shock is almost exactly the same length as the stock shock.
Unfortunately, the compression adjustment is at the top, and is only accessible by drilling a small hole in the battery box. This means removing the battery every time you want to adjust the compression damping...but you should only have to do it a few times. The spring pre-load and rebound damping adjustments are easily accessible. If you must have easy access to the compression damping adjustment screw, you'll have to go with a remote reservoir shock. I couldn't find a good place to mount a reservoir, so I went with an in-line shock (plus, I’m definitely not a road racer).
Don't forget to support the swingarm before removing the linkage bolts. Also, the shock opening is tight, so I used an old tube sock to keep from scratching the spring.
Rode it to work in my summer gear in April !!!! Minor heatwave here in the UK, was cool yesterday morning, was very hot 24c on way home, I nearly melted in my winter gear !
8 hours ago, BlueTravelerI got my new suspension dialed in perfectly (or perfect for me, anyway).
What a great and informative post. I must say I am quite jealous of what you have acheived there. Plus the shock looks amazing. I love parts that look "the part"!
Might I ask how much the shock cost you?
2 hours ago, OhliasMight I ask how much the shock cost you?
I paid $785 including shipping. I asked for the VFRDiscussion discount. The sales guy (Dan) didn't know anything about that, but he gave me a 10% off-season discount instead (this all started in early Feb).
Fitted my new Powerbronze Carbon rear hugger, after rebuilding my forks- K-Tech springs 9.0N, fork seals, new bushes and 10w fork oil.
Need to put some miles on the bike to check the set up, hoping the new rear Ohlins shock and fork rebuild will give me a planted feel on my daily commute and weekend runs.
Hugger was bought to protect the new rear shock in the changeable weather we get in UK.
mountainslide, 2/7/2018 at 12:25 AMEmailed Dymag directly and they indicated no fitment options. Do you know otherwise?
You would need RC45 fitment. The front wheel will bolt straight in with stock spacers. But on 5/6th gens the disc spacing is wrong, so need replacement discs or spacers. For the rear you would need to convert to a central nut rear hub, then could fit either RC45 or Ducati rear wheel option.
I fitted a chain oiler almost excactly like this dude, but I bought a cheap Chinese brake fluid resevoir for $14 (made very well IMO), some fuel line, a primer bulb for a two-stroke chain saw and it now oils my chain from the underside poking through my chain slider 8-10" before it hits the countershaft sproket instead of the rear sproket. Less fling and simple as pie. This video explains it. The bulb sits near my right thumb...NOT MY VIDEO...
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wb01cxFS1bw?feature=oembed]Installed a R&G rad guard.
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2 hours ago, CDNBCNInstalled a R&G rad guard.
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That's really nice . I'm interested in getting a pair . Where did you purchase them do u have a picture of the fairing on ?
Is this only for the 8th gen?
5 hours ago, VFRUNNERIs this only for the 8th gen?
There is a 6th gen equivalent...
VFRUNNER, 5/4/2018 at 11:32 PMThat's really nice . I'm interested in getting a pair . Where did you purchase them do u have a picture of the fairing on ?
I'll snap a few pictures tonight.
VFRUNNER, 5/4/2018 at 11:33 PMIs this only for the 8th gen?
I would check directly with R&G Racing's website and see if they do. I sourced mine from www.twistedthrottle.ca who's an authorized R&G dealer.
Here’s a few with the fairings on.
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Very clean , Looks like it will do the job . 100%
1 hour ago, CDNBCNHere’s a few with the fairings on.
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Very clean , Looks like it will do the job . 100%
Replaced a faulty zumo cradle.Can now hear directions, listen to tunes and if needed talk on the phone.
putting the original screen back on for another test before doing a screen review of several screens.
fink, 5/9/2018 at 9:23 PM...putting the original screen back on...
Hi Fink, what's involved in that? My understanding was that taking the original 8th-gen screen off (or putting it on) was very simple. I happened to be in the dealer's yesterday and asked the service manager's advice. He made it sound quite difficult and told me the mirrors would have to be removed. Given that they have wiring it all started to sound more involved than I'd thought.
3 hours ago, BrianLHi Fink, what's involved in that? My understanding was that taking the original 8th-gen screen off (or putting it on) was very simple. I happened to be in the dealer's yesterday and asked the service manager's advice. He made it sound quite difficult and told me the mirrors would have to be removed. Given that they have wiring it all started to sound more involved than I'd thought.
A service manager making it sound harder than it is, well I never...
3 hours ago, BrianLHi Fink, what's involved in that? My understanding was that taking the original 8th-gen screen off (or putting it on) was very simple. I happened to be in the dealer's yesterday and asked the service manager's advice. He made it sound quite difficult and told me the mirrors would have to be removed. Given that they have wiring it all started to sound more involved than I'd thought.
Mirrors don't require removal. 8gen screen removal is a bit more of a PITA due to the inner visor removal complete with the side pieces. Far easier job on a 6gen.
10 hours ago, BrianLHi Fink, what's involved in that? My understanding was that taking the original 8th-gen screen off (or putting it on) was very simple. I happened to be in the dealer's yesterday and asked the service manager's advice. He made it sound quite difficult and told me the mirrors would have to be removed. Given that they have wiring it all started to sound more involved than I'd thought.
Pretty easy to do. 2 tools correct sizes Allen key and a fine edge trim tool although have done it with a screwdriver.
I was was going to do a how to next week when I get home as I have been trying out a few screens.
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I put on new EBC HH brake pads on my 05 vfr800. Took a whopping 30 minutes by the time I was done cleaning up. I would have changed the sprockets and chain today too but Motosport sent me a front sprocket and chain and no rear (backordered). I will not order form them again. I don't like ordering stuff and finding out when it is delivered that it is not complete. They should email you and give you a chance to cancel and order elsewhere instead of shipping part of the order.
I would assume it is ok to just go ahead and install it with my half worn rear sprocket and then just slip the new one in its place when it comes. I doubt if a few hundred miles is gonna hurt it.....any body disagree?
3 hours ago, exwifeschewtoyI put on new EBC HH brake pads on my 05 vfr800. Took a whopping 30 minutes by the time I was done cleaning up. I would have changed the sprockets and chain today too but Motosport sent me a front sprocket and chain and no rear (backordered). I will not order form them again. I don't like ordering stuff and finding out when it is delivered that it is not complete. They should email you and give you a chance to cancel and order elsewhere instead of shipping part of the order.
I would assume it is ok to just go ahead and install it with my half worn rear sprocket and then just slip the new one in its place when it comes. I doubt if a few hundred miles is gonna hurt it.....any body disagree?
I personally would just wait . It ain't gonna hurt it if u just wait. Not worth the risk.
Yep just wait new chain old sprocket, not a good combination
just last week i fueled up and rebatteried the '86 rwb 700 i've owned since 1991 to get it out of winter storage. ran great, so i rode it home from my shop (8 miles each way) and enjoyed being back aboard, but it makes so much engine noise (normal) and once the engine reached full temp it got so hot, i decided to park it again and just continue riding my '89 Hawk for commuting.
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Cleaned, oiled and adjusted the chain. Removed the front sprocket cover and cleaned away all the built up oil and gunk. Not very exciting but very satisfying. Day off tomorrow so a ride is in order.
Nothing.
cleaned the bugs of my VTR, but that doesnae count here eh? :goofy:
Looked under the cover. Saw a very flaky OEM exhaust collector box. The rear clamp had rusted through and sprung open. Removed the remaining pieces by hand. Shook head. Put cover back... :sad:
(Fortunately, I have a spare Predator/Motad header and an Enutniats high-level slip-on for the bike, which will now be installed chop chop so I can get the bike MOT'd next weekish.)
Ciao,
Last Sunday actually but I only got the picture off the website today. About a 60-mile ride with around a thousand other bikes raising money for my local helicopter air ambulance (Essex and Herts.) This is me arriving at the end of the ride, North Weald airfield in Essex where another thousand bikes were already waiting. Good day out.
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Gave her a bath and fitted ASV levers. They feel nice and look good IMO. I’m sure I’ve gained at least five horsepower too! Off for a spin in the mountains now.
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I noticed this the other night...
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And without the cap nut on there, this is what happens:
[video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/dgQJ7hXBdR4?feature=oembed]'I ordered a few cap nuts. 😉 Oughta' be in my mailbox tomorrow.
Judging by how far out that was, it must've been like that for a week. Oooops.
Slapped some oem hard bags on her! Getting prepared for my 8k trip in a few weeks!
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Back in here again. Had to clean out the oil sight glass too. So I got that done while apart.
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Dangit... wring VFR sorry.
From Track Days to a nice relax ride with my wife, just mount rear foot pegs and Givi Rack, and one is all set to take a tour around the world[image: :wheelie:]
Why I love our VFRs so Much!!!
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Thanks to Fink for reassurance about the simplicity of the task, I finally got round to fitting the Givi D1132S screen to my 2017 800F. It really was an easy enough task. I'd seen a YouTube video made by some guys fitting a Puig screen to an Interceptor of the same vintage. On the video the interior trim panel came off altogether, but on my bike it seemed to be fixed to the instrument pod.
After removing the two screws holding the panel on, I was expecting some difficulty in getting it to unclip. I used a plastic putty knife, and that worked perfectly. You just have to put a bit of pressure into the joint while twisting the blade gently, and the clips come apart with no drama. Just holding the ends of the released panel down slightly gave enough room to get the screen securing screw out on each side.
The Givi screen mounting tabs were absolutely identical to those on the stock screen, so it was a two second job to swap them over. No problems getting the securing screws to line up, and then all I had to do was clip the trim panel back in place, starting in the centre and working outwards one side at a time, followed by the two securing screws. I didn't time it, but even being ultra careful it can't take more than fifteen to twenty minutes.
It's very subjective of course, but I don't think the slightly taller screen (8cm~3"), with just a bit more of a lip on it, spoils the look of the bike at all. (I wouldn't have said the same about the Puig effort in the video - that looked a monstrosity to me.) A quick ride this afternoon to check it out and I'm pleased to say that the Givi screen has made the difference I was looking for. With the stock screen I was thinking that my cruising speed on a long trip was going to be dictated by how much wind-blast I could endure. Now I'm sure I can cruise for as long as I like at about 15-20mph above the previous blast-enforced limit. For short spells I can also get right down behind the new screen, where it's really quiet. I didn't find that at all possible before. Aside from the stock screen I've nothing to compare the Givi against so I can't recommend it more than to say that it works for me and I'm happy with it. Just over the £100 mark including delivery, and money well spent.
New brakes front and rear. Not quite metal on metal but way too close at 16,000 miles.
The mechanic didn't even remove the valve covers. Gave it the "listen with a screwdriver" routine and said we'll lift the covers for the 32,000 mile service.
Took it to the Dragon and got my pic by Killboy bunch. Thanks Mr. Cannon.
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Bled the front brakes for the fourth time then went out to test them. Seemed better than the last time. Maybe its my imagination but it seemed like the lever got a bit softer after I did an ABS test. Is that real? Does ABS introduce bubbles into the system?
Did some more work on a custom GPS mount for the bike, no photos yet, I'm waiting to have it finished, painted and mounted first.
I did a little preparation for Summer Summit 2018, and converted an Eclipse tank bag to a tail bag. It was a pretty easy transfer from the tank to the tail, and I think this will work out real nice.
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Looks good - like it was made for it!
Tweaked the suspension a bit the other day. Got rid of rear chicken strips yesterday.
lazyeye, 6/29/2018 at 2:57 PMBled the front brakes for the fourth time then went out to test them. Seemed better than the last time. Maybe its my imagination but it seemed like the lever got a bit softer after I did an ABS test. Is that real? Does ABS introduce bubbles into the system?
It is a sealed system so no, operation of ABS would not introduce bubbles. The use of ABS though may be enough to move previously trapped air bubbles though.
Installed a steering damper. Got off eBay $90. Brand is "Savage", made in China. Putting all biases aside, I'm impressed with the quality. Will follow up after a few hundred miles with a review.[image: cb468cb1621d5ce120dbde246c995b0a.jpg]
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Took her to the Gym 😃 😃
Getting ready to Track Day @ Estoril Circuit this weekend, removed Givi rack, rear foot pegs etc.
I felt the need to buy new front foot pegs while ridding with racing boots, and have ordered Oberon set on attached pics, and have nothing but good things to say
super easy to assemble and perfect fit 😆
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Well timed post there Resina, I ground the shit out of my hero pegs going up Fish Hill, near Cheltenham today :wheel:
Tried out my new $20 Vaccum Brake Bleeder Kit, worked a treat. Then the Red Lady needed a wash, while I had one of these :beer: .!!
Cheers.
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5 minutes ago, GrumTried out my new $20 Vaccum Brake Bleeder Kit, worked a treat. Then the Red Lady needed a wash, while I had one of these :beer: .
Cheers.
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Those things make bleeding brakes a breeze. Even my 5th gen took me no time at all a few weekends ago. Amazing tool!
Replaced the front calipers which had been suffering from tinfoil piston rot syndrome going into their 5th British winter of road salt. Bought a pair secondhand on eBay off a 2014 Fireblade which are identical and had them rebuilt with new seals etc. by Powerhouse Automotive here in the UK using stainless pistons. Refitted using OE Honda pads and titanium banjos and pad pins. Sweet!
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Switchblade, 6/27/2018 at 1:08 PMTook it to the Dragon and got my pic by Killboy bunch. Thanks Mr. Cannon.
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See, it isn't necessary to knee drag there. Drama and stunt riding on The Dragon is beyond dangerous after being on it, perhaps, too much. Crossing the centerline is is stupidity there. Good line, Switchblade.
thtanner, 1/6/2019 at 6:23 PMThose things make bleeding brakes a breeze. Even my 5th gen took me no time at all a few weekends ago. Amazing tool!
Where can those "things" be bought? Looks enticing to own one.
Grum, 1/6/2019 at 6:17 PMTried out my new $20 Vaccum Brake Bleeder Kit, worked a treat. Then the Red Lady needed a wash, while I had one of these :beer: .!!
Cheers.
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A washer helper is always a great thing.
Do you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac
a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much
of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
3 hours ago, BentSee, it isn't necessary to knee drag there. Drama and stunt riding on The Dragon is beyond dangerous after being on it, perhaps, too much. Crossing the centerline is is stupidity there. Good line, Switchblade.
Thanks ...
Some days I give her the day off .
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5 hours ago, BentWhere can those "things" be bought? Looks enticing to own one.
I got mine cheaply at Harbor Freight.
2 hours ago, FJ12RyderA washer helper is always a great thing.
Do you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac
a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much
of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
I did not have to do that, no. The suction on the tool seems to do a good enough job. I always do a few final quick crack open 'bleeds' while the other person is holding down the brake or clutch lever. Pushes that last bit of air out.
7 hours ago, FJ12RyderDo you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac
a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much
of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
Good point you raise FJ12Ryder. It did appear that I might have been getting some air via the threads, but that didn't concern me, I had a reasonable flow of fluid without opening the bleeder too much. End result was no spongy feel just as you'd expect for a good bleed process. Any air drawn through via the bleeder threads is probably not going to cause an issue IMO.
New lithium battery and new tire, ready to go!!!
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Hi,
My nearly brand new VFR (which I bought back in 2016 with 1 owner only & 5.000km) has turned 30.000km 😬
Chandged oil and filters at home, and took her to local Honda dealer to have new stock chain and sprockets installed, as well as valves checked; I don't mess with that stuff 😅
Ngk iridium spark plug were fitted when se turned 24.000km
She pulls like a Train 😈
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Hi
On the latests erronds I had to do through Lisbon, here in Portugal, I've came accross fellow 5th Gen Red twins 🙂
We still have lots of nice VFRs, I'm not the only V4 nuts here 😅
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All be it last week but no point posting without a test.
I fitted an Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder. The difference to stock is quite remarkable, now as light as my CBF 125 to operate but the engagement is over a longer span of lever movement. This makes it far more controllable, removing the need to over rev to stop it stalling in slow speed maneuvers.
This week I replaced the front tire and cleaned the hell out of the front brakes. The brakes were awful, something to do with riding in the rain all winter, and they were sticking pretty bad. The front tire was completely thrashed because of an unexpected track day (Pilot Road 4 is NOT a track tire) and because I'm pretty rough with the front end.
Anywho I went out and rode it today and was amazed at how much a handling difference a new tire and functioning brakes make. For a 550lbs bike the VFR can be pretty nimble when you put your mind to it.
Going to put a new rear tire on it then ride it this weekend. Weather is supposed to be perfect for doing anything outside.
Pulled by bike out of storage and loaded on Uhaul trailer for the 800+ trip from Kansas City to Atlanta.
Now just need to get it tagged here. Looking forward to the interesting Atlanta traffic on the bike!
My ixil exhaust came in the mail today.
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2 hours ago, SparkieMy ixil exhaust came in the mail today.
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Hi Sparkie.
I have the same exhaust and love it, however the main colour of mine is matt black. From your photos yours looks more like a gray or is that a polished metal effect?
I've run the bike for a long time with both noise restrictors removed, however I've gone to having only the upper one installed, find the sound level is just right for me, both restrictors in seems too quite for my liking. Experiment with them and see what sound level suits you.
Enjoy the IXIL, it's a nice addition to the 8gen.
Cheers.
15 hours ago, GrumHi Sparkie.
I have the same exhaust and love it, however the main colour of mine is matt black. From your photos yours looks more like a gray or is that a polished metal effect?
I've run the bike for a long time with both noise restrictors removed, however I've gone to having only the upper one installed, find the sound level is just right for me, both restrictors in seems too quite for my liking. Experiment with them and see what sound level suits you.
Enjoy the IXIL, it's a nice addition to the 8gen.
Cheers.
I bought the stainless version. It was $300. I think the black version looks better, but it's an extra $50. I just wanted to mention that ixil has discontinued production and is out of stock of both for our 8th gen vfrs. So if you want one, you will have to find one someone else has in their inventory. It looks like several companies have them in stock, but they are asking close to $500. I hope nobody buys one close to that price.
Took the brand new 2014 out for its maiden voyage put the first 115 miles on her. What a joy to ride.
1 hour ago, thepretenderTook the brand new 2014 out for its maiden voyage put the first 115 miles on her. What a joy to ride.
Wait...WHAT?!
lol With a dead cylinder on the 6th gen if I can fix I'll sell it if not I'll put a bullet in it and then sell it. Got a great price on a standard 8th gen and grabbed it. Feels lighter both moving it around and in handling with a smoother engine than the 6th with PC5. 1/2 the price of the Duc SS that I lust for.
Installed Innovv K2 motorcycle camera. Hit a bird on the way home. The install was tons of fun for the front camera🤨. The audio is not too shabby, but that's not why I bought the camera.
The hard wired camera works in unisen via INNOVV mobile app. The app allows you to control the camera, the settings, save video/photo files, view on the spot clips of your ride via WI-FI, share etc. The camera can take up to a 256 gb. I use a 128 gb A2, its plenty for me.
I was tired of purchasing new sena "rechargeable" batteries for my helmet camera every year-as constant use shortens their performance.
Any how so far I'm pleased, set it and forget it factor...reliability to be determined.
For more information on the camera: INNOVV.com
INNOVV_vfr_800.mp4I've been very happy with the K2 on my S1000R it's been rock solid.
Stripped off the silencer & opened it up to reveal most of the packing had left the party. Will order up some more packing material to rebuild it. Pics later.
I just replaced the sprockets and chain. Took me two days to do the actual work because I'm bad at reading the service manual and because I had to rebleed the clutch. I had a hell of a time with the clutch until I found an old thread on this board that says you need to loosen the top banjo bolt to let air out. Once again VFRD is a lifesaver.
Finally got my bike tagged and legal in Georgia this morning.
Drove to work down I-285 in Atlanta. Lots of fun dodging traffic at 80+mph.
Replaced the 2000 Throttle bodies with a modified set of 99 ones. With a manual choke, with 4 hole CBR929 injectors, and a tapered intake modification. It runs, so that’s a start. I balanced the starters & adjusted the idle, now it revs well too. I’ll finish it in the morning 😀😎
Installed Denali B6 brake lights, $50 each-brighter than stock.
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5BFE47DD-56C8-4C99-9A3D-1564C0625853.MOVHad a Birthday for my awesome 2002
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Coffman shorty muffler and k&n filter on my gen 8
I rode my 6 Gen 100 miles in the pouring rain! Of course as soon as I got to my destination, the rain stopped, then it was nice and sunny for the ride home. I then swapped out a set of EBC rotors on my 5 Gen front wheel for a set of their Wave rotors VR1014B. The gold rotor set will be going on my spare gold wheel.
Before...
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After...
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A ride beats a drive.... even when it rains :tongue:
Them black centered rotors suit the white rims well.
Ebony&Ivory, perfect harmony
Hello from Los Angeles. I purchased my new 2015 VFR in late March and have just finished installing mods. Corbin seat, Puig touring windscreen, Delkevic exhaust, rear eliminator kit and hugger.
I most enjoy the new exhaust....deep and throaty just like a big cat growl. The tail tidy and hugger are great. Corbin seat really improves the ride. I still have a 2005 VFR800 that was purchased new and really gave great service but the new bike really has some great electronic items that make a difference in the two bikes. Also enjoy that the V-tech kicks in 1K sooner.
I had the Helibars on the 2005 and opted not to install any aftermarket bars on the new bike. I'm really having quite a time getting legs in condition for the new riding position but I say any exercise that hurts is good exercise. Love this new bike....can't wait to do the "kilt" ride in San Francisco next year.
I have to find a new home for the 2005 this spring....too good a bike to just sit around.
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Going to ride the thing after coffee, breakfast, tire pressure check and getting all the ATGATT stuff on. Washed the jacket last night. It was a filthy, dried sweat, ugly abomination. It really didn't really didn't bother me though. It was getting to where it would stand up on its own. We'll see how it feels. A real motorcyclist gets dirty when riding. I noticed people were avoiding me when I had it on. Not a bad thing really but kind of contrary with my magnet personality, LOL! I must be hallucinating already today.
Installed my new DAM-exhaust!
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4 minutes ago, GreytecInstalled my new DAM-exhaust!
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Gorgeous looking exhaust! How does it sound?
I think it sounds great, haven't tried it without the DB-killer yet.
And it definitely looks much better than the original exhaust.
54 minutes ago, GreytecAnd it definitely looks much better than the original exhaust.
De gustibus et de coloribus ...
Hail Caesar!
Is 'semper ubi sub ubi' part of ATGATT? ;)
1 hour ago, SamuelxHail Caesar!
Is 'semper ubi sub ubi' part of ATGATT? 😉
Initially not understanding this (or should I say "understanding this only as Latin words without any coherent meaning"), I did some Googling (I admit). This learned me that this isn't exactly Latin, but Englatin, a not so much spoken variant of it ☺️ But then again, for those who speak it : YES (it's part of ATGATT) 😎
This being said, I prefer the standard exhaust. But then again : de gustibus et de coloribus ... 😉
Replaced the rear tyre as spiked by a nail, was original Dunlop 222 with 11000kms so just about done anyway, just didn't get to do the throw away burnout...
Have gone with a Roadsmart III
I hit 20,000 miles. Bought brand new in April 2017.
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Cleaned and lubed the chain. After over 15 years of VFR ownership, I still don't know of a quick easy way to clean a motorcycle chain and get it really clean. Just a real PIA job. Oh well, it's done now.
Chain wax seems to attract quite a bit less grime than the oily stuff. 😉
New exhaust fitted 😁
SC Project conic titanium
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Saw this on your channel, indeed. Money is round, let it roll ☺️
Had this off. Not too bad considering it's been through four salty British winters and the inside face is no worse. I've seen others which are much worse but I did cover it in ACF50 when it was new. I'll get it cleaned up and resprayed before it goes back.
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That’s the step isn’t it?
Much involved in getting it off?
I’ve been looking at mine and thinking I might take it off and either get it plated or make a carbon fibre one as I’ll have it to make the mould from
VFR4Lee, 5/28/2019 at 9:08 PMChain wax seems to attract quite a bit less grime than the oily stuff. 😉
Wait until you have to clean around the front sprocket some day. Not fun, nothing seems to dissolve that stuff.
4 hours ago, RDMcDWait until you have to clean around the front sprocket some day. Not fun, nothing seems to dissolve that stuff.
Carb cleaner will dissolve it with very little effort. You may use quite a bit to clean things up but it works.
RDMcD, 5/31/2019 at 9:47 AMWait until you have to clean around the front sprocket some day. Not fun, nothing seems to dissolve that stuff.
I haven't gotten there yet with the wax. But the oily stuff (PJ1 was what I used) made a horrible mess in there. Lots of grit too.
Thumbs, 5/31/2019 at 5:18 PMThat’s the step isn’t it?
Much involved in getting it off?
I’ve been looking at mine and thinking I might take it off and either get it plated or make a carbon fibre one as I’ll have it to make the mould from
It's the rear headers heat shield from the right hand side. Not too bad to remove, first you need to undo one bolt at the top, the bolt holding the rear brake fluid reservoir and the two footrest hanger bolts. That enables you to swing everything out far enough to get a spanner onto the nuts on the ends of the two bolts that go though the upper footrest hanger holding the rear brake cylinder to release the shield. These...
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Removed all fairings, centerstand, footpegs, rear wheel on and off a few times... Why you may ask... so that I can get the exhaust off. All but 1 nut remaining on the small collector at the engine. Just can not get that one off. Now thinking I need to now take out the rear shock. Replacing with 2 Brothers set up if I can finish the job!
swapped my RH TREX puck with new style due to damage during low speed practice. You won’t find the old style where the VFR is etched into the puck due to copyright. The old part by far looks superior... the new red color does not match the paint and it looks like more of a fuchsia color in person. There us also a silver color available. If you’re wondering, the puck did its job no issues with the bolts other than some oxidation on one side and a little bit of rust which I scraped and added removable during installation.
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Sometimes copyright law is ridiculous!! I am glad I have already have these fitted. You should be able to find a small tin of paint to match Victory Red much more closely if it annoys you too much.
nah I can dig it... Im stuck in the 80’s
Is the red just a sticker with black plastic underneath?
No, it appears the color is imbedded in the rubber composite material.
I found & fixed a broken wire to my loud air horns. They failed to work on Wednesday as a car tried to cut me up. Checked yesterday & I could hear the relay firing, so whipped the left side fairing off & traced the fault to the positive wire from solenoid to the horn had broken just below the terminal crimp. All good now, MoT tomorrow.
1 hour ago, MohawkI found & fixed a broken wire to my loud air horns. They failed to work on Wednesday as a car tried to cut me up. Checked yesterday & I could hear the relay firing, so whipped the left side fairing off & traced the fault to the positive wire from solenoid to the horn had broken just below the terminal crimp. All good now, MoT tomorrow.
Just out of curiosity, was the wire soldered (either tinned or to the connector)?
No it was just crimped on & was a spare bit of wire I had at the time that had the right connector on one end, but whomever crimped it had done it on bare wire, so it snapped I guess from vibration fatigue. It’s ‘a been there for over 15k miles, it’s non standard & I’d put it inside a tube as it runs down the front of the engine, to stop it chafing through, which concentrated the vibration to a 2” length by the connector. I’ve rerouted it & remade the connector, so should be good for another long while. I’ll add it to the winter strip down checklist.
Put back all the brake line brackets and bits I've taken off, de-rusted and resprayed black, then washed it. Looking OK for nearly 5 years old.
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New here, so hi.
I sorted my petrol tank vacuum issue after stumbling onto a thread on here via Google, and have now signed upas a member.
6 hours ago, parsonNew here, so hi.
I sorted my petrol tank vacuum issue after stumbling onto a thread on here via Google, and have now signed upas a member.
Welcome parson.
Better post a picture of your 8gen. Yes super important, when lowering your fuel tank after maintenance ALWAYS remember to take up the slack of the breather hose by pulling on the small to large hose joiner as the tank is lowered. The vacuum caused by a kinked breather hose can become strong enough to deform your tank!
Enjoy your ride.
Cheers
Planing a 350 mile ride tomorrow so lubed chain and checked oil, second time in 2500 miles (3000 total) I had to add oil as was just below the sight glass. My S1000R with 35000 miles never needs to add oil. Don't think this should be a problem. Am I wrong?
52 minutes ago, thepretenderPlaning a 350 mile ride tomorrow so lubed chain and checked oil, second time in 2500 miles (3000 total) I had to add oil as was just below the sight glass. My S1000R with 35000 miles never needs to add oil. Don't think this should be a problem. Am I wrong?
Do you have the deluxe with center stand? I don't know what it is with the 8gen but I find often that the oil level varies even when checking with the bike in the same location every time. Perhaps there's a varying amount that remains in the oil cooler, the variation is not a lot, just noticeable enough to be slightly inconsistent. When changing the oil, and after an engine run I just top it up to the right spot then monitor it regularly. Never really needed topping up after that or in between services. Guess it goes without saying but, to get a good reference on oil levels = bike in the same level spot all the time.
So depending on how much you needed to top it up and how regularly you do it is the burning question! If your saying the oil level has gone from the upper level to below the lower level mark in 2500 miles then that doesn't seem right.
Otherwise don't worry.
Enjoy your 350 mile ride.
Cheers. :beer:
Not Deluxe but level on Abba superbike stand.
7 hours ago, GrumWelcome parson.
Better post a picture of your 8gen. Yes super important, when lowering your fuel tank after maintenance ALWAYS remember to take up the slack of the breather hose by pulling on the small to large hose joiner as the tank is lowered. The vacuum caused by a kinked breather hose can become strong enough to deform your tank!
Enjoy your ride.
Cheers
Thanks Grom, your advice and knowledge on that thread was invaluable. Turns out the garage had fed the vac line across the top of the 1" airbox pipe rather than behind it. Once re-reouted and pulled down when lowering the problem wwas solved. So thank you.
Picture on my "Hello from Scotland" thread ont he introductions and new members forum.
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/89439-hello-from-scotland/&tab=comments#comment-1097554
Due to the cold and crappy weather, had the urge to tinker with the bike.
Added a beefy Ground bonding wire, see white wire with yellow lug.
Decided to grab a short length of aircraft spec 10gauge wire I had floating around, and install a good bonding cable from the EFI, ECM and stuff Ground point (on the Frame Ground Point just under the rear of the tank - see attached drawing) to the Negative battery terminal.
Bad Grounds on bike frames have in the past caused strange things to happen(not with my own bike fortunately) just wanted to avoid that situation ever happening for good.
Well, at least it kept me occupied and off the streets for an hour or so :wacko:
Cheers. :beer:
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Last week. Got together with a few mates for a week of enjoying the fantastic roads we have in Scotland. 4 of us for 6 days followed by another 10 arriving on Thursday for a further 4 days.
5 vfr in group 4 of them 8th gen.
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5 hours ago, finkLast week. Got together with a few mates for a week of enjoying the fantastic roads we have in Scotland. 4 of us for 6 days followed by another 10 arriving on Thursday for a further 4 days.
5 vfr in group 4 of them 8th gen.
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That is a great picture of five great machines.
Not exactly today, but two weekends ago did a nice 3 day tour in the Catskill Mountains. Two 2014 VFRs and a Panigale 959.[image: 8c9ad5fdf006dd159dc798b07de7d0a9.jpg][image: edab6e941a78ca73c11b65da2d28a28a.jpg]
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Amoreira88, 1/14/2018 at 8:39 PMi just want to remove / replace it because its rusty but i dont want to let out the magic smoke if i dont have to.
Did we ever figure out what that bolt was for??
Just curious.
I fixed this problem.
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1 hour ago, armodI fixed this problem.
With a set of road 5s[image: 16aa048b38696490910fd9bbd06c6391.jpg]
Ouch! Not often you see a front puncture like that. Hope it went down slowly, giving you a chance to see it once stopped. Is that the original front tire?
I've been running the Michelin Road 5's and are very happy with both grip and longevity, hope you find them the same.
Cheers.
thepretender, 6/30/2019 at 6:08 PMPlaning a 350 mile ride tomorrow so lubed chain and checked oil, second time in 2500 miles (3000 total) I had to add oil as was just below the sight glass. My S1000R with 35000 miles never needs to add oil. Don't think this should be a problem. Am I wrong?
Is it a problem? These are two completely different machines?
A VFR using oil is a pretty rare breed. Have you had it since new? Did it just start using a little oil?
How many miles? What viscosity oil? When was the last oil change? Maybe a slight leak from a not
tight enough oil filter?
Bent, 2 machines the 8th gen is the one that uses a bit of oil.
FJ12Ryder, new 2014 got it earlier this year 3700 miles so 700 sense top off and still up to top line on sight glass filter on tight 10-30 oil next change at 5000
so just keeping eye on it, changed at 630 with T6 miles no metal flakes at the first change.
Grum Ouch! Not often you see a front puncture like that. Hope it went down slowly, giving you a chance to see it once stopped. Is that the original front tire?I didn't notice it until I was getting back on the bike to leave work.
I've been running the Michelin Road 5's and are very happy with both grip and longevity, hope you find them the same.
Cheers.
They were the factory wheels and I wasn't really a fan of them anyway.
15 hours ago, thepretenderBent, 2 machines the 8th gen is the one that uses a bit of oil.
FJ12Ryder, new 2014 got it earlier this year 3700 miles so 700 sense top off and still up to top line on sight glass filter on tight 10-30 oil next change at 5000
so just keeping eye on it, changed at 630 with T6 miles no metal flakes at the first change.
Agree. My 8th gen. is my third and by far, best VFR. Have had a 1999, a 2006, and now standard 2014. I've run them all hard with 10W-40 synthetic (I don't care what Honda recommends on the 2014) and none used any oil. The way the 8th gen. has been ridden the last three weekends, it's a wonder it doesn't use some oil but none is used. Shoulder finally seems to be healed from rotator cuff surgery and I've come back with a vengeance in the Smoky Mtns. Age doesn't help though. I don't see how VFR's don't use oil but have no idea on the BMW.
Cured a grating front disc by freeing off the bobbins with a power drill and brake cleaner, went for a stunning ride in the sun, then replaced the chain guard, cleaned out all the crap from the chain guide and replace the rusted bolts from the brake hose clamps on the chain guard. Finally cleaned up the swingarm and treated all the chainguard to a coat of plastic dressing so it's lovely and black and shiny again.
armod, 8/3/2019 at 4:07 PMI didn't notice it until I was getting back on the bike to leave work.
They were the factory wheels and I wasn't really a fan of them anyway.
Normally I'd say plug it but any excuse to replace the crap tires that it came with will do.
Bent, 8/4/2019 at 8:46 AMAgree. My 8th gen. is my third and by far, best VFR. Have had a 1999, a 2006, and now standard 2014. I've run them all hard with 10W-40 synthetic (I don't care what Honda recommends on the 2014) and none used any oil. The way the 8th gen. has been ridden the last three weekends, it's a wonder it doesn't use some oil but none is used. Shoulder finally seems to be healed from rotator cuff surgery and I've come back with a vengeance in the Smoky Mtns. Age doesn't help though. I don't see how VFR's don't use oil but have no idea on the BMW.
Hey Bent, V glad to hear about your shoulder and your being back in the saddle With A Vengeance. I still remember vividly our first ride back at T-Mac.
"To seek greatness is the only righteous vengeance"
Criss Jami
I gave it a new coolant expansion tank, from a GPX600 to replace the too small KTM690 one I’ve been running for the last couple of years. Hopefully I will stop losing expansion coolant, thanks to the increased size. I also fitted the bottle neck through the fairing panel so can check the level & top up at will.
I replaced my old RapidBike Racing MTB with a new one that supports Bosch 4.9 wide and sensor, which are much more accurate & faster responding than the old 4.2 version.
Fitted Scorpion Ti end can. And a few more things to do yet,
I gave it a new coolant expansion tank, from a GPX600 to replace the too small KTM690 one I’ve been running for the last couple of years. Hopefully I will stop losing expansion coolant, thanks to the increased size. I also fitted the bottle neck through the fairing panel so I can check the level & top up at will.
I replaced my old RapidBike Racing MTB with a new one that supports Bosch 4.9 wideband sensor, which are much more accurate & faster responding than the old 4.2 version.
Fitted Scorpion Ti end can. And a few more things to do yet,
thepretender Normally I'd say plug it but any excuse to replace the crap tires that it came with will do.The plug lasted me a few days while the shop got the tires in
18 hours ago, MaxSwellHey Bent, V glad to hear about your shoulder and your being back in the saddle With A Vengeance. I still remember vividly our first ride back at T-Mac.
"To seek greatness is the only righteous vengeance"
Criss Jami
Yes, that was a good day of riding for sure with you Katherine and others. When we can remember one ride for that many years, it was good. I'll give you an update later today. Told my wife that today I quit hurting from all the riding this weekend, LOL!
Fixed my cheapo screen extender which had lost one of the locking pins by copying the remaining one and 3D printing another. Rather pleased with that...
Nothing today. "might" ride it tomorrow, likely aggressively in the twistie parts. It's my "mind-flush" machine.
armodI fixed this problem.Did you need to tighten that bolt in your tire? [image: emoji16.png]
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Added framesliders and found the perfect spot for my screaming banchee (not on pictures though)
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Nice looking bike ...those are DSG frame protectors yes?
50 minutes ago, ThumbsNice looking bike ...those are DSG frame protectors yes?
And if so, what to they attach to on the bike?
22 hours ago, BentAnd if so, what to they attach to on the bike?
I have DSG frame protectors on mine, I got them through Gerhard THURN
The mounting is the long engine mounting at the front and the engine mounting bolt behind it, the Delrin blocks mount onto billet alloy blocks that come through the slot in the fairing
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Thumbs Nice looking bike ...those are DSG frame protectors yes?
Indeed it is - they are ok for a non-engine-guy to mount... and I like the looks (compared to other sliders for the RC79).
Put on a new set of Pirelli Angel GT's. The last pair went 8,000 miles of aggressive riding. They never felt anything other than totally planted and they wore beautifully. I always ran them at 34lbs in the front and 36lbs in the rear. Totally happy with Pirellis.
Ordered a new rear Angel GT last night because I did a perfect job of running over a screw of a type I've never seen. It inserted itself in the middle of the tread. Not going to repair the half worn Angel GT due to how and where I ride.
fattireshire mentioned 8000 miles of aggressive riding on his Angel GT. I'm lucky to get 3300 miles from an Angel GT so aggressive riding is a relative term. I have never gotten 8K miles from any kind of tire on any kind of bike. A lot of it is where I live and ride along with a heavy throttle hand and hard cornering. If it wasn't for very technical twisties where I live, I wouldn't own a bike other than my TREK. Some things are relative.
Installed a radiator guard on my '14 - was able to do it without removing the fairings (barely).[image: 1228f1203cdfbaf0508aa30650294373.jpg]
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Nice one 4corsa, looks very neat. :fing02:
4 hours ago, 4corsaInstalled a radiator guard on my '14 - was able to do it without removing the fairings (barely).[image: 1228f1203cdfbaf0508aa30650294373.jpg]
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Is that the air intake I spy above the rad with that plastic scoop ?
Mohawk Is that the air intake I spy above the rad with that plastic scoop ?Yes it is
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Finally used up the tires that came on my 2014. 4444 miles surprised me they lacked feel and grip so much I figured they would last longer must have been less rubber than real tires. Put on a set of Bridgestone T31s they turn in so much better took me a while to adjust as I was putting in more turning force than needed 🙂
Went through Yosemite to scrub them in so less than spirited ride got 54 mpg amazing my 6th gen never gave me more than 44 mpg another reason to love this 8th gen.
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Finally got all the bits to fit my uprated FPR to complete my throttle body & airbox upgrade. Then updated my other threads about both elements 👍
thepretender, 9/13/2019 at 1:06 PMFinally used up the tires that came on my 2014. 4444 miles surprised me they lacked feel and grip so much I figured they would last longer must have been less rubber than real tires. Put on a set of Bridgestone T31s they turn in so much better took me a while to adjust as I was putting in more turning force than needed 🙂
Went through Yosemite to scrub them in so less than spirited ride got 54 mpg amazing my 6th gen never gave me more than 44 mpg another reason to love this 8th gen.
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How were the crowds on the roads. The one time I was there the traffic was really bad. That was when the government was giving out stimulous money and the roads were receiving lots of maintenance. Yosemite is quite the fabulous place.
thepretender, 9/13/2019 at 7:06 PMFinally used up the tires that came on my 2014. 4444 miles surprised me they lacked feel and grip so much I figured they would last longer must have been less rubber than real tires.
OEM tyres are always crap, mine came with Dunlop’s put me right off using them again
Now Bridgestone T31’s, a fresh set will go on Tuesday
I didn't go into the valley so avoided the worst part, there was enough traffic that passing people was an exercise in futility and 2 spots where they worked on the road with only one lane so backup of 20-30 cars but most were at least moving 5 miles over the speed limit. A gorgeous road so I didn't mind too bad.
Yeah the Dunlops that came were so bad I didn't even consider the latest Sportmax even though they are supposed to be great tires. They were not too bad when brand new but with every mile they turned more and more into sh*t oh and they seemed to turn into teflon when rolling over tar snakes.
Seems that most tire manufacturers make a series of cheap tires to compete to win the bid to be an OEM supplier - it's a great contract to get. But I don't think they're usually a good representation of the manufacturer's better tires. I was a Bridgestone guy for years and used them on my track bikes, but the Bidgestones that came as OEMs on my 2014 VFR were terrible - single compound front and dual compound rear. The front squared off after 3500 miles. I replaced them with Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs (dual compound front and rear) and couldn't be happier. Just did 260 miles today on West Virginia twisties - amazing grip.
I have Dunlop Q3+ on my Ducati Monster S4R and also an outstanding tire - even for an occasional track day.
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finally sold my '86 700 on cl, owned it for 26 years but need money for a cataract operation. $1300. around here (bflo, ny) very little interest in these old bikes.
no problem, i still have 3 more vfr's
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17 hours ago, squirrelmanfinally sold my '86 700 on cl, owned it for 26 years but need money for a cataract operation. $1300. around here (bflo, ny) very little interest in these old bikes.
no problem, i still have 3 more vfr's
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Obviously another member of the MBS club - Multi Bike Syndrom. And look at all those engines!
I did the hover-bike modification....
I'm getting new tires. Yay!
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Remove the front fender for that "baskin shark" look!!!
Gave the tyre company £240 and the guberment £60 for the privilege of owning legal tyres
Introducing the little ones to a lifetime of wish lists and unobtanium
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At least he will never have spare money for drugs... 😎
12 hours ago, DutchyAt least he will never have spare money for drugs... 😎
Haha that was my thinking as well mate- a better addiction than meth
Found the spacers for the front of the seat, in a box I got when I bought the bike, and installed them. Was wondering why the front of the seat would move down when I sat on the bike.
Took the baffle out of the shorty Delkevic exhaust, fired it up, and put the baffle right back in. Good Lord did it sound good, but too loud for me.
I finally had an opportunity to go break in my new tires (Michelin Pilot Road 5). I've been too busy with work and racing to get out on the street bike. My tire guy always tells me "take it easy until they break in". Well the first time i got out was of course in the middle of an autumn rain storm. But the good news is that the PR5s perform just as good in the rain as the PR4s (which I also broke in during a rain storm). Hopefully I get as many miles out of them as well. My PR4 rears were lasting 6-7k miles.
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Took the bike for a spin through the Royal National Park, Sydney.
Kept it pretty tame as not ridden properly in over 12 months.
Spectacular scenery and some great switch backs/ twisties.
You dont need to be speeding to have a bit of fun with some 'spirited riding'.
Definitely take some pictures next time.
Bonus- during the working week so less vehicles on the road and less police trawling biking hot spots.
Bled the clutch and brake fluid. First time for that job for me. Don't need the Motion Pro bleeder I bought. It just gets in the way.
The new fluid does make a very distinct difference. Much crisper braking and shifting. Brake fluid looked so so but the clutch fluid was very dirty with crap in the reservoir.
Moral to the story: change your fluid on time.
Fitted fuel sender to petrol tank and a digital voltmeter to my new to me 1996 VFR750
Got a speeding ticket, and also had a great ride this chilly Colorado morning
1 hour ago, VFR4MeGot a speeding ticket, and also had a great ride this chilly Colorado morning
:worthlesswithoutpics:
Got pulled over today for moving past stationary cars for right hand turn in the bike lane. Got a warning. 4th warning in a row for miscreant deeds committed while on my trusty "99.
Powerbronze wind deflectors (dark smoke). We will see how they do....temps in the morning as of yet only at best 48 F or so...southern California...I know other places got that real winter snap.
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Hit 14K and did all fluids and a new set of shoes. This is what a Q3 Plus looks like when the sides go first. Happy that I burned through the sides first though. Great tires for the bike!
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mountainslide, 10/18/2019 at 1:18 PMHit 14K and did all fluids and a new set of shoes. This is what a Q3 Plus looks like when the sides go first. Happy that I burned through the sides first though. Great tires for the bike!
Do you live at the track or something? Haha.
mountainslide, 10/18/2019 at 3:18 PMHit 14K and did all fluids and a new set of shoes. This is what a Q3 Plus looks like when the sides go first. Happy that I burned through the sides first though. Great tires for the bike!
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That is quite decent mileage from a rear. Looks Very Well Used.
Just got back from 4 days to and from The Great Smoky Mountains riding some of the most technical curves in the country while there. Total: 962 curvy miles the entire way from my driveway. The 8th gen. took almost all of it at high throttle and heavy engine braking with no ill results. Tough bike in the garage. Rode The Dragon too much. It's a dangerous place to be on...don't advise riding it any more. Too many incompetent Hog riders. It is what it is.
Took the battery out. Dead as a door nail not bad considering it has been neglected for past few months and is. 5 years old.
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Good Lord, a viffer with winglets
Rubbed it down with Honda Cleaner/Polish and let it dry. Nobody has come along to wipe it off so I guess I'll have to do it.....
MaxSwell, 10/21/2019 at 11:55 AMThat is quite decent mileage from a rear. Looks Very Well Used.
I didn't get 14K out of the tire, that was the mileage on the bike for service, I was late for my 12K. I got a shy of 4K out of the tires which isn't a lot but I love how the handle.
18 hours ago, mountainslideI didn't get 14K out of the tire, that was the mileage on the bike for service, I was late for my 12K. I got a shy of 4K out of the tires which isn't a lot but I love how the handle.
That's still very good mileage. Don't know how people get over 3K on any kind of rear tire.
Went for a ride before the snow hits us tonight.... Colorado, USA
Bent, 10/26/2019 at 8:41 AMThat's still very good mileage. Don't know how people get over 3K on any kind of rear tire.
I'm no knee dragger but I routinely get 8,000 - 10,000 miles out of the Pilot Road 2 tires I've used in the last 10 years. The fronts usually have enough tread to keep using but I prefer getting tires in a set.
VFR4Me Went for a ride before the snow hits us tonight.... Colorado, USA
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Just in time
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
16 hours ago, MaxSwellI'm no knee dragger but I routinely get 8,000 - 10,000 miles out of the Pilot Road 2 tires I've used in the last 10 years. The fronts usually have enough tread to keep using but I prefer getting tires in a set.
I know how you do it. No criticism meant. I have slowed down condiserably though.
3 hours ago, BentI know how you do it. No criticism meant. I have slowed down condiserably though.
It's true Bent. I have moved to "Life in the slower lane; I have lost (most of) my mind". (Apologies to The Eagles.)
Lubed my chain, bled the brakes, went for a ride. Took pictures.
Replaced the loose rivets with machine screws and nylock nuts on the fender eliminator...no more worries about losing my plate
Filled the bike and car with fuel. Catastrophic bushfire conditions predicted tomorrow so preparing to get the viffer,car and valuables packed ready to evacuate.
1 hour ago, laurieFilled the bike and car with fuel. Catastrophic bushfire conditions predicted tomorrow so preparing to get the viffer,car and valuables packed ready to evacuate.
Stay safe m8.
Went for a ride today, low 50s - heated gear made for a wonderful time...
laurie, 11/11/2019 at 4:46 AMFilled the bike and car with fuel. Catastrophic bushfire conditions predicted tomorrow so preparing to get the viffer,car and valuables packed ready to evacuate.
Nothing for nearly a month....hope yr ok fella!
laurie, 11/11/2019 at 4:46 AMFilled the bike and car with fuel. Catastrophic bushfire conditions predicted tomorrow so preparing to get the viffer,car and valuables packed ready to evacuate.
That puts a bit of perspective on stuff. Good luck, stay safe!
Wired up the trickle charger harness, and on the heated gear harness changed the fuse to be able to handle the addition of a heated jacket.
Prolly gonna add a distribution block for the electronics soon.
Rode is after several weeks of just sitting. It ran good but it was a little cold so it was a quick ride. Machinery isn't meant to sit idle. Letting that happen bugs me. Put some fresh gas in it. Non-ethanol gas. If you haven't tried it, get some 87 octane E0 and see how much different it runs.
Cleaned the front brakes. Holy hell brakes get dirty, especially when you ride in wet conditions.
Bent, 12/31/2019 at 3:30 PMRode is after several weeks of just sitting. It ran good but it was a little cold so it was a quick ride. Machinery isn't meant to sit idle. Letting that happen bugs me. Put some fresh gas in it. Non-ethanol gas. If you haven't tried it, get some 87 octane E0 and see how much different it runs.
Lucky bastard! In Denmark they raised ethanol content to 10% effective this January 1st. E0 not allowed in the market 😞
12 minutes ago, RC36BLucky bastard! In Denmark they raised ethanol content to 10% effective this January 1st. E0 not allowed in the market 😞
you can always do this 😄 :
1 hour ago, simo5555you can always do this 😄 :
Nice 🙂 ...
Well, except for the price... 😯 and the work required too... 😫
Ex work: EUR 2,30 per liter or USD 9.74 per USG
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Thats bad. Luckily, we still have the ethanol free E98E0 for sale. I use this in my bike and it has worked just fine. We also have the E95E10 too. The rescue service, military etc started to complain that the ethanol will ruin their equipment. Not to mention the motorcyclist, lawnmowers, car drivers etc. The fuel companies hated it so one of them introduced the new diesel made entirely with renewable sources (bio-methane and biowaste mostly mixed with some type of parafin-like stuff) a few months ago called nexbtl diesel. So selling this and the cng biogas, the fuel company will fulfill the required co2 emission reduction set by the government and can keep selling the regular, ethanol-free fuel too.
14 minutes ago, simo5555Thats bad. Luckily, we still have the ethanol free E98E0 for sale. I use this in my bike and it has worked just fine. We also have the E95E10 too. The rescue service, military etc started to complain that the ethanol will ruin their equipment. Not to mention the motorcyclist, lawnmowers, car drivers etc. The fuel companies hated it so one of them introduced the new diesel made entirely with renewable sources (bio-methane and biowaste mostly mixed with some type of parafin-like stuff) a few months ago called nexbtl diesel. So selling this and the cng biogas, the fuel company will fulfill the required co2 emission reduction set by the government and can keep selling the regular, ethanol-free fuel too.
Lucky you. In Denmark no exceptions!
Btw, I was in Kuressaare some years ago. Sailed into Roomassaare. The harbour was maybe not the greatest (only outer industry part of the harbour had sufficient depth of water) but we had a great time.
In NL we still have some "premium" fuels that guaranteed ethanol-free. Like BP 98 ultimate
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:beer:
25 minutes ago, DutchyIn NL we still have some "premium" fuels that guaranteed ethanol-free. Like BP 98 ultimate
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:beer:
In Denmark, 100 RON has 5% ethanol
2 hours ago, RC36BLucky you. In Denmark no exceptions!
Btw, I was in Kuressaare some years ago. Sailed into Roomassaare. The harbour was maybe not the greatest (only outer industry part of the harbour had sufficient depth of water) but we had a great time.
Hope you liked it here. I´ve lived here all my life and i still haven´t visited the Kuressaare yet. Was hoping to go there this summer, but we´ll see.
2 hours ago, DutchyIn NL we still have some "premium" fuels that guaranteed ethanol-free. Like BP 98 ultimate
:beer:
Thats one sweet looking bike. A good friend of mine owns one too (white with gold wheels) and i got to ride it once. Scared the crap out of me - the torque is insane
The torque my brain can handle; it is the 285kmh (on GPS, thacho reads 295) topspeed that does my head in....
E5 here means MAXIMUM 5% ethanol... Some brands do, some do not.....
Nothing, I did nothing, I have a sheet of ice in the alley behind my garage door. I cant even get the bike out of the garage.
Went to the Honda shop to visit my ‘07 which is waiting for a new right side switch. The bike started acting funky and stopped running while on a busy Los Angeles freeway two weeks ago and had to be towed 30 some miles. The shop checked stator and regulator and all was reported to be good but the battery wiring harness was crispy and corroded and replaced which reportedly fixed the cutting out issue.
Since the bike was being looked at I had them investigate a weird shorting issue with the 4 way flasher switch, every time I switched the flashers on it would blow out the 10 amp fuse. Taking apart the right hand switch and cleaning with contact cleaner did nothing, running through connectors and cleaning them didn’t do anything but clean them. I have lived with issue for awhile and basically just stopped using the 4 way flashers as a fix. The mechanic tried the cleaning thing with the switch with no joy so replacement was recommended, just waiting for the part.
In 10 years of ownership the bike has had a bad ground issue which nearly left me stranded and this current breakdown so I suppose it’s not that bad but damn after nearly being run over my faith in the bike is pretty low, will have to see how it goes when I get it back.
For now I’m blessed to have a NT700V and my Bking to ride. Both have been trouble free and I haven’t had to baby the electrical connections. Having thoughts about replacing the vfr with a gsxs750/1000 or go all the way and pick up a full on liter bike gsxr1000. Just thoughts.
A Suzuki?
Lets heat up the tar and pluck some feathers..... 😎
Spring is coming soon...
Brakes had major overhaul last year - all new o-rings, seals and braided brake-lines. So this year is the "light edition".
I removed the calipers and cleaned pistons (only external part of piston). With floating calipers, I clean and re-grease slides every year; it takes very little time and I never have uneven wear, noisy brakes or warped discs.
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RC36B, 1/4/2020 at 2:19 AMLucky bastard! In Denmark they raised ethanol content to 10% effective this January 1st. E0 not allowed in the market 😞
Apparently, I am lucky on the EO. It sure makes a power difference in the 8th gen., just as it did on my 5th and 6th gens., when I had them. Ethanol is a scam in many ways. It isn't saving any whales and it takes more BTU's of energy to make a gallon of it than there are BTU's in the gallon. Government helping us out again.......
RC36B, 1/4/2020 at 2:19 AMLucky bastard! In Denmark they raised ethanol content to 10% effective this January 1st. E0 not allowed in the market 😞
Apparently, I am lucky on the EO. It sure makes a power difference in the 8th gen., just as it did on my 5th and 6th gens., when I had them. Ethanol is a scam in many ways. It isn't saving any whales and it takes more BTU's of energy to make a gallon of it than there are BTU's in the gallon. Government helping us out again.......
RC36B, 1/4/2020 at 2:19 AMLucky bastard! In Denmark they raised ethanol content to 10% effective this January 1st. E0 not allowed in the market 😞
Apparently, I am lucky on the EO. It sure makes a power difference in the 8th gen., just as it did on my 5th and 6th gens., when I had them. Ethanol is a scam in many ways. It isn't saving any whales and it takes more BTU's of energy to make a gallon of it than there are BTU's in the gallon. Government helping us out again.......
Well didn’t ride since it’s 1200 miles away in a buddies garage.
Did purchase and tried the new First gear heated liner and gloves that in my opinion after riding streets since 84 is a real nice addition.
Getting ready for CO when I’m here permanently come The end of July.
Have a completely done basement that will be my man cave so will post up rides and end up at my home for food and lots of drinks.
Oh and a place to crash as well.
See you then
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For a February 2nd, really nice weather today - blue sky and 5C... only the wind is a little annoying. This day 18 years ago the weather was pretty much the same. I remember because I ate some dirt that day. I have no memory - witnesses told the bike landed on my chest after what in pilot jargon is best described as "uncontrolled flight into terrain" - I think I was lucky.
Even though the bike is work-in-progress it went back together last night. I went for a ride and of course... needed to pass my old crash site. Not often that is a joy in February...
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Glad to see it didn’t put you off riding. As an immortal 20 year old (41 years ago😳) I did a superman impersonation (for about 1 second) over the roof of a car. I still ride past the spot regularly and can still remember the accident very clearly. Luckily I was not severely injured just a fractured wrist and some skin off my knees. Nothing makes you pay more attention than your first accident.
5 hours ago, Philois1984Glad to see it didn’t put you off riding. As an immortal 20 year old (41 years ago😳) I did a superman impersonation (for about 1 second) over the roof of a car. I still ride past the spot regularly and can still remember the accident very clearly. Luckily I was not severely injured just a fractured wrist and some skin off my knees. Nothing makes you pay more attention than your first accident.
Yeah - guess the "aha experience" is if you want to fly, use an aircraft... far more graceful 🙂
You can have your accident for your selves - I don't want it 🙂
i just looked at my bike lovingly today....way too cold and snowy in the Denver CO area to ride. I did try to get a group ride together today tho...no takers :)
RC36B, 2/2/2020 at 8:21 PMFor a February 2nd, really nice weather today - blue sky and 5C... only the wind is a little annoying. This day 18 years ago the weather was pretty much the same. I remember because I ate some dirt that day. I have no memory - witnesses told the bike landed on my chest after what in pilot jargon is best described as "uncontrolled flight into terrain" - I think I was lucky.
Even though the bike is work-in-progress it went back together last night. I went for a ride and of course... needed to pass my old crash site. Not often that is a joy in February...
It took 18 years to fix the bike?
32 minutes ago, mikesweIt took 18 years to fix the bike?
🙂 an unintended interpretation... the bike back then did not make it 😞
RC36B, 2/2/2020 at 8:21 PMFor a February 2nd, really nice weather today - blue sky and 5C... only the wind is a little annoying. This day 18 years ago the weather was pretty much the same. I remember because I ate some dirt that day. I have no memory - witnesses told the bike landed on my chest after what in pilot jargon is best described as "uncontrolled flight into terrain" - I think I was lucky.
Even though the bike is work-in-progress it went back together last night. I went for a ride and of course... needed to pass my old crash site. Not often that is a joy in February...
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Little chance I will get to Rokiškis, Lithuania to shoot a similar video....
Besides, my VFR with his snapped beam frame was a total and utter write-offf. as well.... Parts of her now live on across the globe... :goofy:
Had the new headers installed. Larger diameter than stock and no CAT. Install with a TBR slip on required an custom "adapter" to be fabricated as you can see in the pic. Shop (Catalyst Reaction Tuning) did a fantastic job but it wasn't cheap. Definitely added some throatiness and butt dyno says a some top end power. Will see what the intelligent Rapid Bike System does with the mods over time. Still need to get to the hills and break in the new tires. "before" picture at the bottom.
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10 hours ago, mountainslideLarger diameter than stock and no CAT.
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:tongue:
Hey man I really like the way u did that tail swap with the vfr. Can you share how you did it? I wanna do that to mine
I'm definitely getting too old or simply too lazy to replace mirrors and peg wear bolts... Of course, the chance is I'm too much of a chicken as well 🙂
Dutchy, 1/5/2020 at 3:16 AMA Suzuki?
Lets heat up the tar and pluck some feathers..... 😎
Lol the vfr is running great now and is a blast to ride but now that my wife is finally back to work I might snatch up one of these..........
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Swept the garage floor so far, Its coming today, a 2017 VFR1200X...
3 hours ago, Rob2mSwept the garage floor so far, Its coming today, a 2017 VFR1200X...
Who would worry about the garage floor with a new VFR on your hands... roads are calling... the dust not going anywhere anyway :wheel:
Welcome and congratulations with the new bike 🙂
Hi what value of rpm should be on hot engine? My some time is even below 1000rpm? It that fine? Vfr 800f 2016.
5 minutes ago, reddccrewHi what value of rpm should be on hot engine? My some time is even below 1000rpm? It that fine? Vfr 800f 2016.
Warm engine idle is 1200rpm, and easily adjusted.
I have also older vfr vtec i there is a screw but in the new one it is not existing. How can I adjust it?
22 minutes ago, reddccrewI have also older vfr vtec i there is a screw but in the new one it is not existing. How can I adjust it?
On your 2016 8gen the idle adjust knob is just above the clutch slave cylinder on the left side of the bike, turning the knob clockwise will increase your idle rpm. No need to remove the fairing.
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RC36B, 2/11/2020 at 6:59 PMI'm definitely getting too old or simply too lazy to replace mirrors and peg wear bolts... Of course, the chance is I'm too much of a chicken as well 🙂
Nice Video ,doesn't look like Denmark to me more Spain.
6 minutes ago, GrumOn your 2016 8gen the idle adjust knob is just above the clutch slave cylinder on the left of the bike, turning the knob clockwise will increase your idle rpm.
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Great thanks, I will check it!
Works perfectly! Thanks.
2 hours ago, finkNice Video ,doesn't look like Denmark to me more Spain.
Right, you already passed our tallest mountains (about 173 meters) a couple of times in that video.
I think it does say Spain in one of the other videos from "FLASH FLASH".
5 hours ago, RC36BRight, you already passed our tallest mountains (about 173 meters) a couple of times in that video.
I think it does say Spain in one of the other videos from "FLASH FLASH".
We will be passing your way in just over a months time.
Bought a Michelin Road5 for the back end after coming home from work on Friday, wheeling it back into the garage and noticing this. Couldn't get it plugged because the screw hadn't gone in straight so it was more of a tear than a hole, plus it's illegal to repair Z-rated tyres in the UK. The Road5 was all I could get at the time so I've had to swallow my (maybe unwarranted) dislike of Michelins brought on by the poor performance of the Pilot Road 4 on my 8th gen and give their latest offering a chance, though I admit I loved the Pilot Road 3 I had on my 6th gen. Hopefully it won't complain too much about a half-worn Bridgestone T31 at the front.
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[image: large.A5BE58E3-F0EF-48E6-96FA-0F64BA9F6ED7.jpeg.1141d771c36f1f252e33b782d8e88849.jpeg][image: large.AF74E48E-D4CE-4540-87C8-CF2B91DF148E.jpeg.c4a8b7500312158bef92763cc1184344.jpeg]Got a bunch of things done all at once:
New DID chain and Sunstar sprockets despite everything still being in spec, with the OEM chain and sprockets still looking good at 40,150 miles (!) (I only use Honda spray lube on the chain)
New adjustable billet levers from Japan
New NGK iridium plugs
Coolant flush
Brake and clutch fluid flush and replacement with Endless RF650
Endless PRO2 front pads
New Honda OEM quickshifter (busted the peg on the first one)
Honda synthetic oil and OEM filter
Honda OEM air filter
Then I went for a ride!
A couple of fabulous photos and a couple of great bikes Shinigami. I've done 72,000ks on my 8gen and currently on my second chain with the original sprockets, due for a chain replacement in a few thousand k's however I will probably only replace the front sprocket, a close inspection of the sprockets recently revealed no visible wear! I've successfully ran at least two chains to a set of OEM sprockets for many years, I'm a bit of a fusspot for checking tension and regular lubing. YMMV.
That RF650 brake fluid is expensive, I know it's a very high performance product, but does it still require replacement every two years as per normal Dot 4?
Cheers.
Put the optimate on the battery that I thought had died a while back (I had stuck it on the charger and brought it back to live) and removed the Innov k2 to put on the Bmw
Grum, 2/16/2020 at 4:08 PMA couple of fabulous photos and a couple of great bikes Shinigami. I've done 72,000ks on my 8gen and currently on my second chain with the original sprockets, due for a chain replacement in a few thousand k's however I will probably only replace the front sprocket, a close inspection of the sprockets recently revealed no visible wear! I've successfully ran at least two chains to a set of OEM sprockets for many years, I'm a bit of a fusspot for checking tension and regular lubing. YMMV.
That RF650 brake fluid is expensive, I know it's a very high performance product, but does it still require replacement every two years as per normal Dot 4?
Cheers.
Thanks! Yes, the RF650 is a little bit overkill. But, I like overkill on items like that.
I live in a very arid climate, and it’s possible to go up to 4 years between flushes, but I still stay with a two year interval.
I have never had such low chain wear on my old 6th gen or on my current CBR600RR, 20k miles and the chains would be done, though I do pay attention to adjustments and lube.
Despite everything being well within spec on the 8th gen OEM chain and sprockets, I just felt it would be prudent to change them out before the season really kicks off here. I’ve seen the results of failed chains, and want no part of that.
Same with the spark plugs, the old ones looked great, but I hate to push intervals on items that can drop ceramic bits into a cylinder.
I checked the sag to make sure it hadn't moved since I last adjusted it in the summer. So glamorous...
Beautiful day 🙂
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Quick question when I want to use seat in high position some bolts have to be added? Do someone have a photo of it?
Two bolts and stops need to be added to the front. They should come with bike. Instructions are in owners manual.
Removing & Installing Body Components u Front Seat ❙ Removal
1. Remove the rear seat. 2 P. 64
2. Remove the mounting bolts and collars,
and then pull the front seat back and up.
❙ Installation
1. Install the front seat by aligning the recess for the current seat height position (low or high) with the front stay.
2. Install the collars and mounting bolts.
3. Tighten the mounting bolts securely.
4. Make sure that the mount positions of the
recess and the adjust plates are the same
seat position. 2 P. 92
5. Install the rear seat.
Make sure that the seat is locked securely in position to pull it up lightly.
For the front seat height adjustment, see “Changing the Front Seat Height.” 2 P. 91
Front seat
Recess (low position) Mounting bolts
Front stay Collars Recess (high position)
8 hours ago, reddccrewQuick question when I want to use seat in high position some bolts have to be added? Do someone have a photo of it?
This should help you out, just incase you don't have the owners manual!
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Hi I have owner manual. But Im a little bit confused - please check my photo and let me know if those are this collars?
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Yes, they are the high seat position collars. So simply bolt them on in the forward position then change the two rear brackets to the high position, job done.
From yesterday 🙂 take care!
[image: 6D4723AE-C070-4484-A0C6-B89C68421970.thumb.jpeg.48a3c9dc571fd1e1cada5f0ae0f508fd.jpeg]Jump started my 94 off my 95 and took both of them for a quick ride in the sun before the rain set in
fatshoutybloke, 2/16/2020 at 1:21 PMBought a Michelin Road5 for the back end after coming home from work on Friday, wheeling it back into the garage and noticing this. Couldn't get it plugged because the screw hadn't gone in straight so it was more of a tear than a hole, plus it's illegal to repair Z-rated tyres in the UK. The Road5 was all I could get at the time so I've had to swallow my (maybe unwarranted) dislike of Michelins brought on by the poor performance of the Pilot Road 4 on my 8th gen and give their latest offering a chance, though I admit I loved the Pilot Road 3 I had on my 6th gen. Hopefully it won't complain too much about a half-worn Bridgestone T31 at the front.
Going into Brit mode here...
Would you sodding believe it!!! 30 days after the above, another one. A three-quarter-inch razor-edged piece of flint carved it's way into my less than 400-mile-old rear Road 5. BOLLOX!!!!
[image: 2020-03-18 rear Road 5 puncture_2.JPG]
Shinigami, 2/16/2020 at 4:28 PMGot a bunch of things done all at once:
New DID chain and Sunstar sprockets despite everything still being in spec, with the OEM chain and sprockets still looking good at 40,150 miles (!) (I only use Honda spray lube on the chain)
New adjustable billet levers from Japan
New NGK iridium plugs
Coolant flush
Brake and clutch fluid flush and replacement with Endless RF650
Endless PRO2 front pads
New Honda OEM quickshifter (busted the peg on the first one)
Honda synthetic oil and OEM filter
Honda OEM air filter
Then I went for a ride!
Is that BMW an S1000RR? That looks super nice!
Quick question what is value of torque to mount break calipers? Maybe some one have technical documentation in advance?
BR Remigiusz
reddccrew, 4/6/2020 at 2:13 PMQuick question what is value of torque to mount break calipers? Maybe some one have technical documentation in advance?
BR Remigiusz
If you have the Owners Manual the Torque Settings will be in there,if not ive seen a value of 23ft/lbs.
On my ‘00, installed a recently sourced factory screen. The original had developed multiple cracks in recent years. Additionally, installed a used low-mount Two Bros aluminum slip on. Up to now I’ve run the factory system all the while listing after a Staintune, GPR, etc. For $50 I couldn’t pass it up.
Am I correct in thinking that I now have can options to use with the two bro’s midpipe as long as the prospective can’s I.D. plays nicely with the midpipe’s O.D, utilizes springs for attachment & the mounting bracket is addressed appropriately?
I have to say that internet video audio doesn’t do justice! I haven’t yet heard in person the VFR with anything but the OEM system. Just wanted to say, it sounds wonderful!
[image: F1472092-9091-423E-9D82-699ACACC70B5.jpeg]
Bought a new battery. When I checked the old one which had been on a Battery Tender, it showed 12.4 V. Put it in, turned the key
and nothing. Checked the battery, 12.4 V. Hmmm, checked the battery when I turned the key 0 V. Apparently a bad cell. It woudn't
even light a tail light bulb on the bench.
So off to Wally World for a new battery. $65 later and I'm back in business. Not sure exactly how old the battery is but got to be 5+
years old. It goes on the Battery Tender in the winter so that probably helps.
New front tire is next on the list. Already have it, just need to get it mounted and balanced.
Hi FJ12Ryder.
That's a GREAT example of why battery voltage is NOT a true indication of capacity or health of the battery. Thanks for sharing your classic example.
Good Luck with the new battery.
Cheers.
Tore into the bike yesterday.
Checked valve clearance on back bank, No 1 cylinder intakes at service limit .006, but they were 16K miles ago so buttoned back up. When it gets above freezing temps I'll have a go at the front bank today.
Still to go:
Bleed Brake system and calipers in the Ultrasonic. I do this every year.
Remove rear tire, inspect, clean, grease rear bearing, probably time with 82K on the clock. Check front wheel bearings (new last year).
Remove, clean, grease side stand and center stand, both are pretty stiff.
Drop shock and clean, inspect and grease bushings.
Retire OEM mirrors for second time and install replacement Y2K mirror(s) (one broke a while back).
I'm sure I'll find more to do.[image: DSCF3381.thumb.JPG.e5890934a09e00378e73f2b467f0eb31.JPG]
OK, dropped the shock and dog leg. Inspected, took apart and cleaned and greased all bushings. Cleaned shock and inspected. Has been riding fine, so reinstalled. Did check it against a 929 shock with less than 10K on shelf, and the dimensions match. May re spring it and give it a go down the line if needed.
Finished valve check on front bank, ended up draining the coolant, will flush and replace with new. Also took the time to give the airbox a scrub and detail. Awaiting new air filter.
Removed center stand and side stand, neither looked like they had ever been serviced. Scraped and cleaned crud off both and when dry took a brass wire wheel to both. Reinstalled with a coating of high pressure waterproof grease. Now I may actually be able to snap the bike up first go.
Installed Y2K mirrors.
Today is rear wheel day, there is no play side to side and a check with a dial indicator shows it runs pretty true, about .002 out in 360 degrees, so I'll check the grease. I gave the front sprocket area a perfunctory clean while doing the side stand, so if time allows I'll remove and clean it and the output shaft area and remove and clean chain.
Hi I have questions (like allways) received with my bike those Crash-pad set. And I cannot understand instructions..
1. Remove fairings this is clear.
2. When I remove this long bolt engine will not fall down? After that I need to get original pad from this bolt? And each side need to be done separately? Next put it through this mounting hardware piece and distance pad this long screw?
3. Temporary without finally screwing this long bolt remove shorter screw from engine and finally screw it with distance piece to engine.
4. Each site should be done separately?
Sorry this is quite crazy for me. I will be grateful if You can help me with this 🙂
Thanks in advance.
Those are DSG correct?
The long bolt is the first one you put in, the engine won’t fall out .... put some grease on it first
Then put the rear bolts in
Then torque the bolts up
The pad mounts bolt to the pear shaped bracket
The pads screw to the alloy mounts
Use an anti seize compound like Copper Slip on all the threads
GSG mototechnik is manufacture. You mentioned about Copper grease yes? Ore something else?
It was quite busy Friday with my vfr. New front breaking pads. Aftermarket central stand from Givi and new crash pads.
ChikhaiBardo, 3/21/2020 at 3:44 PM[image: 6D4723AE-C070-4484-A0C6-B89C68421970.thumb.jpeg.48a3c9dc571fd1e1cada5f0ae0f508fd.jpeg]Jump started my 94 off my 95 and took both of them for a quick ride in the sun before the rain set in
Here's my 94 + 95, I have a few jobs to do during the Lockdown but in no rush yet.
Cleaned my brakes again. Brakes get hella dirty. The whole bike needs a dip in some degreaser and bug wash!
After 74,000kms fitted its Third chain D.I.D 525VX124FB (cut it back to 110 links). Very reluctant to replace the front original sprocket even after 74,000k's it looked near perfect! Still replaced it as I had a new one on hand.
Fitted a new JTF1332-16 to the front. The rear was fine so left the OEM on. Big clean up done behind the sprocket cover.
Original Chain - 36,650K's
Second Chain - 37,380k's (EK525ZVX3124).
Photo newly fitted sprocket Top. Old OEM sprocket after 74,000k's Bottom.
[image: image.jpeg]
1 hour ago, GrumPhoto new to old sprocket after 74,000k's
Hi Grum - too much beer last night :beer: ... you photographed 2 new sprockets...! :wacko:
Visible wear could easily be lens distortion...
And I thought everything get "blasted" with all the sand you have out there...
Do you use link or rivet?
1 hour ago, RC36BHi Grum - too much beer last night :beer: ... you photographed 2 new sprockets...! :wacko:
Visible wear could easily be lens distortion...
And I thought everything get "blasted" with all the sand you have out there...
Do you use link or rivet?
- Ha Ha yes they look like two new sprockets but only the top one is.
- You are absolutely right about the lens distortion.... It was taken with my mobile phone which seems to create the effect of slight elongation of some of the teeth on both new and old sprocket....Good observation RC36B.
- Yes there is a lot of sand in Australia, but I don't ride the VFR there.
- Used a riveted Master Link.
Cheers. :beer: :wheel:
Last couple of rides I have done I collected a lot of Nth Qld bugs so decided today was a good day to give her a bath. All cleaned and dried. Polish and wax with synthetic Xwax tomorrow morning. Like you Grum I need to give the front chain sprocket a good clean, do you remove the lower fairing when you do this or do you find there is enough room without removing it? Also where did you get the older generation VFR badge/sticker from? All the places I have found that have them want a ridiculous amount of postage, one place wanted €21🤯. I wouldn’t mind putting one on the Powerbronze screen I have just ordered (dark tint doesn’t come with a logo)[image: 8FADD384-7A59-45FD-9FF8-83C1EF7BA6FF.thumb.png.6cc0de5e406e39393cad04c7e8b929e9.png]
1 hour ago, Philois1984Last couple of rides I have done I collected a lot of Nth Qld bugs so decided today was a good day to give her a bath. All cleaned and dried. Polish and wax with synthetic Xwax tomorrow morning. Like you Grum I need to give the front chain sprocket a good clean, do you remove the lower fairing when you do this or do you find there is enough room without removing it? Also where did you get the older generation VFR badge/sticker from? All the places I have found that have them want a ridiculous amount of postage, one place wanted €21🤯. I wouldn’t mind putting one on the Powerbronze screen I have just ordered (dark tint doesn’t come with a logo)[image: 8FADD384-7A59-45FD-9FF8-83C1EF7BA6FF.thumb.png.6cc0de5e406e39393cad04c7e8b929e9.png]
Hi Phil.
Bike is looking great after the wash and polish.
M8 there is no need to "give the front sprocket a good clean" you really only want to do this when you Replace the front sprocket at the time of a chain replacement. Just need to remove the lower left fairing, then remove the sprocket cover leaving the clutch slave cylinder attached to the cover. This allows you to unbolt and remove the front sprocket and clean up all the chain lube and crap that accumulates in this area. Not something you need to do unless replacing the sprocket.
The VFR logo I have is the 6gen emblem used on the 2004/2005 model. The part number is 64220-MCW-D80ZA they are a Type 1 version.! One of these emblems is going to set you back around $50. They are a Honda stock item you can order through any Honda dealership.
Don't reckon the emblem would work too well on your new screen especially if it's a Double Bubble type, the emblem is 245mm long and is 3D so it's a raised emblem, with all the bugs you'd get on the front screen it would make keeping the emblem clean a pain in the arse, a small stone impact front on could also damage it. Something to think about.
Cheers :beer:
Well it was 25F/-04C this morning so I waited before heading[image: DSCF3405.thumb.JPG.cefa77842dcba832ef0fce722f9afe75.JPG][image: DSCF3406.thumb.JPG.239ff9dbe1558b89428f1956a134d8cf.JPG] out to the garage. Poured myself a mug of tea and had a go at recovering my seat. It wasn't that bad, but a few years ago something fell on it when it was -15F and punctured and cracked the vinyl, so time for a fresh cover.
1 hour ago, FromMaineWell it was 25F/-04C this morning so I waited before heading[image: DSCF3405.thumb.JPG.cefa77842dcba832ef0fce722f9afe75.JPG][image: DSCF3406.thumb.JPG.239ff9dbe1558b89428f1956a134d8cf.JPG] out to the garage. Poured myself a mug of tea and had a go at recovering my seat. It wasn't that bad, but a few years ago something fell on it when it was -15F and punctured and cracked the vinyl, so time for a fresh cover.
Looks like a great job, before shot would have been interesting. A productive morning by the sounds of things.
22 celcius...
Took my V4 for an icecream
[image: IMG-20200419-WA0022.thumb.jpeg.bcb969f82eb58d1019d7e3e1567c2df3.jpeg]
8 hours ago, Philois1984Looks like a great job, before shot would have been interesting. A productive morning by the sounds of things.
The first pic is of the puncture, I used some tape that I used when I was diving commercially to repair it. not very pretty but it lasted about 20 K miles and would have lasted longer.
The second pic does not really show it but there was a sewn seam at the front of the seat that had started to deteriorate, so If I was riding in the rain the foam would absorb the water. There were also some small cracks forming on the aft part of the vinyl as it was beginning to become brittle with age and UV exposure so I was getting water in there also. Coming back from North Carolina last year was 2 days and 1,200 miles in the rain. When I got home I removed my bags and pulled the seat, which was about 2-3 kg heavier than normal, and hung it in the garage to drip dry. BTW, waterproof gear is anything but if you basically sit in a puddle for 10-12 hours. It was time for a new cover...…………………..🌧️[image: DSCF3352.thumb.JPG.861aec38bf30f0fbab51e171809b0fd1.JPG][image: DSCF3351.thumb.JPG.9f6ebc77cb2c029fd0b24404586d1a0b.JPG]
Ask and you shall receive 👍 thanks.
What did I do to my VFR today?
I paid it off!!! 🙂
To cold to ride = apply new go-faster decals![image: ce4a51d318d47b2eca3a8aa93c64ba5e.jpg]
+2 BHP!!! :goofy:
Rode it to work, first time this month I've actually been on site since we were locked down. It was a bit weird in the normally full staff car park...
7 hours ago, fatshoutyblokeRode it to work, first time this month I've actually been on site since we were locked down. It was a bit weird in the normally full staff car park...
[image: 2020-04-22_Stansted_in_lockdown.jpg]
That beautiful machine looks quite lonely. But at lease it is not lonely from being in the garage all the time.
Dutchy +2 BHP!!! [image: :goofy:]I'll get it dynoed, but I think the stickers could be worth 3bhp! [image: emoji1.png]
Installed a new chain.
lazyeye, 4/26/2020 at 12:36 PMInstalled a new chain.
What chain did you settle on lazyeye .
10 hours ago, Philois1984What chain did you settle on lazyeye .
I went with a DID brand this time, because that's what my local shop had. The off-brand 520 I installed 10,000 miles ago didn't hold up to Oregon conditions (dirt, water, de-icer, etc). The sprockets looked like new so I kept with the same chain size.
Finally got every rusted screw out with extractors or drilled out, removed the thermostat housing and the coolant stub out #3 cylinder then prised the f**king carbs off of the RC24 project bike, just as well #4 butterfly is jammed shut and the linkage disconnected
(technically yesterday). I dropped it off for a 38,000 mile service with a shop that claims to know VFRs. By June I'll have a like new bike and can pile on the miles (if the state of emergency ever ends).
Pretty pedestrian list, and more than a day as I've been juggling chores, weather and the bike.
Removed Swingarm, sprockets, chain. Cleaned all, inspected and greased bearings and reinstalled a couple of days later.
Removed clutch rod, buffed, greased and end for ended. Cleaned output shaft area and put all back together.
Reinstalled airbox with new filter.
Cleaned and reinstalled all footpegs, polished right side heat shield, partially disassembled seat lock mechanism and lubed cable and lock.
Re-installed battery box, coils, solenoid.
Chased down fault on 12 volt external power outlet. Removed wiring and controls for heated gear found in harness. (PO I guess).
Removed, disassembled rear caliper, and sent through the Ultrasonic. Drying on bench.
Found the rear grab rails that were actually included with my used 2014 purchase; also ordered specialized USA Veteran plates... could be 8 weeks before processing is complete though. I attached an example of what the plates look like, which will look really slick going on a pearly white 800!
So took the VFR out for a ride on Saturday over Sonora and Ebbits passes in California whole trip was 280 miles mostly far from any town or city mostly fun and twisty. 69 miles to go on the way home happen to be in Sonoma Ca. the biggest city on my route and I smell oil and while at a stop see some white smoke. I pulled over to discover oil everywhere including the whole left 1/3 of my rear tire. After finding tool kit unable to do the simplest task take off enough fairing to have a good look around the oil filter where I suspect the problem is I make it to the auto parts store to get what is needed to find a fix the problem. Seems while installing the filter with a channel lock made for installing oil filters I compromised the filter and after 2000 miles of heat cycles the crease in the filter failed pissing oil. Glad I was in town and not 50 mile from even a gas station.
Picture of the oil filter.
2 hours ago, thepretenderSo took the VFR out for a ride on Saturday over Sonora and Ebbits passes in California whole trip was 280 miles mostly far from any town or city mostly fun and twisty. 69 miles to go on the way home happen to be in Sonoma Ca. the biggest city on my route and I smell oil and while at a stop see some white smoke. I pulled over to discover oil everywhere including the whole left 1/3 of my rear tire. After finding tool kit unable to do the simplest task take off enough fairing to have a good look around the oil filter where I suspect the problem is I make it to the auto parts store to get what is needed to find a fix the problem. Seems while installing the filter with a channel lock made for installing oil filters I compromised the filter and after 2000 miles of heat cycles the crease in the filter failed pissing oil. Glad I was in town and not 50 mile from even a gas station.
Picture of the oil filter.
[image: filter.jpg]
Glad you weren’t halfway through a sweeping left hand corner at speed 😬 Glad it was just an inconvenience for you.
Fitted the new Atlas Throttle Lock this morning. Installation was easy, though I was doubting myself that it was on correctly. I thought it was sitting up too high, but it looks the same as the photos on the instructions. I ended up using the thinnest spacer, not a lot of room between the grip and the throttle housing.
Comparing it to the Kaoko I find the Atlas much much easier to engage and disengage. I seemed to have to turn the Kaoko more than 360 deg to get it to engage. Also with gloves on I found I accidentally engaged it a couple of times in the twisties. Performance is the same,the speed wanders a little either way with both. The Kaoko is visually far better in my opinion. [image: 5501E789-B62E-4831-B643-2C7E619E36E7.thumb.jpeg.0c38919a168a2b2eaa22dd752dde8de8.jpeg][image: D5A89285-C428-471E-8A45-5E7F520C5334.thumb.jpeg.43c46c31e8063d97393a3c98f8b08cf6.jpeg]
3 hours ago, thepretenderSo took the VFR out for a ride on Saturday over Sonora and Ebbits passes in California whole trip was 280 miles mostly far from any town or city mostly fun and twisty. 69 miles to go on the way home happen to be in Sonoma Ca. the biggest city on my route and I smell oil and while at a stop see some white smoke. I pulled over to discover oil everywhere including the whole left 1/3 of my rear tire. After finding tool kit unable to do the simplest task take off enough fairing to have a good look around the oil filter where I suspect the problem is I make it to the auto parts store to get what is needed to find a fix the problem. Seems while installing the filter with a channel lock made for installing oil filters I compromised the filter and after 2000 miles of heat cycles the crease in the filter failed pissing oil. Glad I was in town and not 50 mile from even a gas station.
M8 that could have been VERY serious, glad you survived and got it all sorted. A good wash down with kero would clean up your tire.
Use whatever it takes to get your oil filter Off if need be, BUT when installing it only needs to be very firm hand tight. Even on the 8gen there's enough room to get a hand in to tighten it. Never heard of a "channel lock" for installing filters what is it?
Picture worth 1000 words I got some oil on the filter before install so was slick as he when installing and couldn't get a good grip.
I wiped the tire off as good as I could before heading home but had a good 20 miles of twistys to get home, be sure I was hesitant to toss it into a left turn. Taking it easy seemed to scrub the oil off. Was trying to beat the sun going down before I got past the tightest part so slowly increased left lean angle along the way. Was nervous as hell the whole time 🙂
[image: clocks.jpg]
1 hour ago, Philois1984Fitted the new Atlas Throttle Lock this morning. Installation was easy, though I was doubting myself that it was on correctly. I thought it was sitting up too high, but it looks the same as the photos on the instructions. I ended up using the thinnest spacer, not a lot of room between the grip and the throttle housing.
Comparing it to the Kaoko I find the Atlas much much easier to engage and disengage. I seemed to have to turn the Kaoko more than 360 deg to get it to engage. Also with gloves on I found I accidentally engaged it a couple of times in the twisties. Performance is the same,the speed wanders a little either way with both. The Kaoko is visually far better in my opinion.
Hi Phil. That looks like a quality unit, made in the USA of course. Like the idea of thumb action, bet it's a treat to use. I know what you mean regards the Kaoko it can be fiddly in its operation for sure, but I do like the Kaoko's discreet appearance.
Cheers. :beer:
#throwback
Today I just stumbled across this picture, back from August 2018 at Estoril Circuit 😃
Still far from the Pilot (me 😅) being able to take the most of our beloved VFR, we did a 2:07 high as a best lap.
Can't wait to be there again 🏍️ 🏍️ 🏍️
[image: spacer.png]
[image: IMG_0104.JPG]
thepretender, 18 May 2020 at 4:07 PMPicture worth 1000 words I got some oil on the filter before install so was slick as he when installing and couldn't get a good grip.
I wiped the tire off as good as I could before heading home but had a good 20 miles of twistys to get home, be sure I was hesitant to toss it into a left turn. Taking it easy seemed to scrub the oil off. Was trying to beat the sun going down before I got past the tightest part so slowly increased left lean angle along the way. Was nervous as hell the whole time 🙂
[image: clocks.jpg]
Oh m8. Never tighten a new filter with these. Great for removal only. Weapon Of Mass Destruction!
I did the Front Fork oil replacement on my 2014, went well though a little bit of mucking around getting the damping rod adjuster right on the first one, learnt the lesson for the 2nd one.
I have also been busy with servicing and detailing my Wifes new ride a 2009 Triumph Bonneville SE.
Floated Bud around the garage with my new Abba Sky Lift. Worth every penny...
While Bud was off the ground, added some T-Rex protection.
And some CNC Short Brake Clutch Levers (eBay Item: 273893939549)
Bar end sliders (eBay Item: 292818125771)
Foam grips (eBay Item: 302930563289)
and a Go Cruise (pulled off my previous bike)
Yesterday I fitted the quadlock stem mount and today a double bubble screen, hopefully get it out for a spin tomorrow to check both upgrades out
Billv45, 5/26/2020 at 12:35 PMFloated Bud around the garage with my new Abba Sky Lift. Worth every penny...
[image: skylift.jpg]
Holy Socks! I need one of those. Could you elaborate on how the machine attaches to the lift? Working on my machines on the garage floor is a real pain in the rear, and everywhere else, for my 71 yr. old body.
BTW: That is quite the fine looking machine and in the fastest color. You obviously have great taste in mc's.
Yeah, I don't hop up from the garage floor too quick any more either! After removing the bottom fairing fasteners one time I thought oh hell no...and broke out the credit card.
It Mounts to the swingarm pivots and has a strap on the rear axle bolt to hold it level. It will also lift it in wheelie or stoppie mode. I'm highly impressed with the quality in addition to the design. It's $800 but I don't regret a penny!
Demo video below (I'm not affiliated with Abba but I really do like "The winner takes it all")
Thank you Billv45. I'm reaching for my wallet as I type. This would be a perfect self-gift with my COVID money.
4 hours ago, MaxSwellThank you Billv45. I'm reaching for my wallet as I type. This would be a perfect self-gift with my COVID money.
Your welcome and will love it. And let me share my sky lift mod, a holder for the rear axle strap mount. Drill a 1-1/8" hope in the top cap. Also Abba sells a tray but a Harbor Freight magnetic tray works pretty good for a buck.
If you don't have a 1-1/8" hole saw, you can send me your cap and I'll drill it.
Received the missing “helmet strap” from Partzilla today. I think I have it connected correctly. The User Manual is a little vague.
Looks ok. Assume you have it looped through the helmet D rings. Just be careful the steel wire doesn't scratch your paintwork just where it exits the holder.
10 hours ago, GrumLooks ok. Assume you have it looped through the helmet D rings. Just be careful the steel wire doesn't scratch your paintwork just where it exits the holder.
Thx for the response Grum. I'm still scratching my head why Honda didn't craft their factory hard cases to fit a full face helmet (just to barely fit would have been ok too, but the Shoei doesn't even get close.) I really only need a locking mechanism when doing some shopping. The helmet strap thing seems like an afterthought by Honda engineers. The wire is not that heavy of a gauge.
I tinkered and ran through the “drill” checking out a possible R/R issue. Otherwise that was it...... No time to ride today.
You can get a lid in the side case.
[image: post-31868-0-36087900-1441090786.jpg]
New PowerBronze dark screen
Great use of the rear carrier.
5 hours ago, Billv45New PowerBronze dark screen
[image: IMG_20200528_172448.jpg]
Is this screen the same shape as the stock screen?
14 minutes ago, VFR4MeIs this screen the same shape as the stock screen?
Same as the original, just dark. I considered the double bubble but as I don't care for it's appearance and don't mind the airflow, stuck with the same shape. Bought it from PowerBronze thru eBay. Saw it, liked it so I watched it. A day later got a eBay offer from PowerBronze for $50 and free shipping. Done!
Billv45, 5/27/2020 at 4:08 PMYeah, I don't hop up from the garage floor too quick any more either! After removing the bottom fairing fasteners one time I thought oh hell no...and broke out the credit card.
It Mounts to the swingarm pivots and has a strap on the rear axle bolt to hold it level. It will also lift it in wheelie or stoppie mode. I'm highly impressed with the quality in addition to the design. It's $800 but I don't regret a penny!
Demo video below (I'm not affiliated with Abba but I really do like "The winner takes it all")
Thank you Billv45. I'm reaching for my wallet as I type. This would be a perfect self-gift with my COVID money.
edit: I ordered my own yesterday. I can't wait to get my butt up off the garage floor. Thank you Billv45 for the inspiration.
(technically yesterday). Picked it up from the shop. They did every bit of maintenance that a 38,000mile bike needs and it rides like a new machine.
Got rid of loud delkevic and installed stock muffler. Mebbe I'll find something else I like better, but I like what's left of my hearing more...
43 minutes ago, VFR4MeGot rid of loud delkevic and installed stock muffler. Mebbe I'll find something else I like better, but I like what's left of my hearing more...
What did you say? Speak up please. I CAN'T HEAR YOU. :musik20:
Wise move.
VFR4Me, 5/31/2020 at 3:27 PMGot rid of loud delkevic and installed stock muffler. Mebbe I'll find something else I like better, but I like what's left of my hearing more...
Which Delk did you remove? I just bought a 2015 that the PO had cut the stock can in half and I'm considering a change. Also just up the road in Arvada. I was considering the 14" DL10.
I love my 14" Delkevic - makes the V4 sound glorious! Not too loud, especially when compared to the Arrow slip-ons installed on my Ducati S4R. I would not go shorter than the 14" version[image: 15cea9b87e53469a732f57c11c5accd4.jpg]
1 hour ago, zefram47Which Delk did you remove? I just bought a 2015 that the PO had cut the stock can in half and I'm considering a change. Also just up the road in Arvada. I was considering the 14" DL10.
It was the shorty chromed one.
Sold it to a guy on the CO Vfr FB messenger group chat...
fink, 5/28/2020 at 4:14 PMYou can get a lid in the side case.
[image: post-31868-0-36087900-1441090786.jpg]
THat's almost as far as the lid will close with my Shoei RF1200 in it. What make and model helmet are you showing in this photo?
16 hours ago, VFR4MeIt was the shorty chromed one.
Sold it to a guy on the CO Vfr FB messenger group chat...
Are there any CO-specific VFR groups around and/or groups that get together to ride?
5 hours ago, Goldcrown44THat's almost as far as the lid will close with my Shoei RF1200 in it. What make and model helmet are you showing in this photo?
It’s an Arai chaser,
5 hours ago, zefram47Are there any CO-specific VFR groups around and/or groups that get together to ride?
https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/forum/33-usa-mountain/
8 hours ago, finkIt’s an Arai chaser,
What size? My Arai QV size L doesn't come close to fitting.
It’s a medium.
Replaced this...
[image: 2020-06-10 Bridgestone T31 front 4139 miles.JPG]
with this...
Well last days we had on the menu 😅
-new oil and filter and K&N air filter maintenance
-removed CBS
-assembled new Hel braided brake lines as well as stock VFR brake calipers drilled so to have all three pistons working at the same time
and now I will deliver her Monday at the mechanic, so to have the used CBR 600 f4 front M/C I have bought rebuilt, as well as brake lines bleed, as I don't mess with that 😅
[image: 2114000740_Screenshot2020-06-13at00_22.39copy.thumb.jpg.538be30154aeca05cf1cc4a75c3ace7d.jpg]
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I can't seem to bolt back the screw highlighted in green, it's like if the screw thread which I believed existed inside the swing arm has vanished... or how does the screw holds to the swing arm so to keep the chain guard in place... many thanks for your help
15 hours ago, ResinaWell last days we had on the menu 😅
-new oil and filter and K&N air filter maintenance
-removed CBS
-assembled new Hel braided brake lines as well as stock VFR brake calipers drilled so to have all three pistons working at the same time
and now I will deliver her Monday at the mechanic, so to have the used CBR 600 f4 front M/C I have bought rebuilt, as well as brake lines bleed, as I don't mess with that 😅
[image: 2114000740_Screenshot2020-06-13at00_22.39copy.thumb.jpg.538be30154aeca05cf1cc4a75c3ace7d.jpg]
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I can't seem to bolt back the screw highlighted in green, it's like if the screw thread which I believed existed inside the swing arm has vanished... or how does the screw holds to the swing arm so to keep the chain guard in place... many thanks for your help
I think there is a short metal backing piece under the chain guard, nearly impossible to see or reach into which the screw goes. I'll have to go out and have another look but I remember having a heck of a time getting that attached in the past. I'll update later.
many thanks for letting me know =)
Mounted new tires. My PR5s that I mounted in September and rode all fall/winter/spring on were shot (6100miles). Burned out the center of course, but that's what happens when you live in a valley and have to ride straight roads to get to the fun roads.
Hi everybody, new to this forum but what I did today is get my 2000 VFR800Fi back on the road🙌
I purchased the bike 3years ago, always wanted to try a V4 engine but it needed some tlc so it’s done very little roadwork recently, but hopefully that’ll now change and my trusty Transalp can now have some much needed R&R for its 65000miles of diligent service.
since getting the VFR, it’s needed tyres, new rear shock (Hagon), front forks service and EBC front rota’s. Time to stop spending and start riding.
i hope to get lots of info on how to make the VFR better (read lighter!!) from this forum and will post bits and pieces I do if people are interested.
Pete
Hi Pete,
Enjoy the (1st post lockdown?) ride!
Do post up with a picture so we know you truly exist :fing02:
Welcome Pete, I am sure you will enjoy your VFR and this forum. I am sure you will get lots of advice on how to lighten your bike. I need to lighten myself before I start worrying about my eighth gen 😁
petarm, 6/17/2020 at 12:43 AMHi everybody, new to this forum but what I did today is get my 2000 VFR800Fi back on the road🙌
I purchased the bike 3years ago, always wanted to try a V4 engine but it needed some tlc so it’s done very little roadwork recently, but hopefully that’ll now change and my trusty Transalp can now have some much needed R&R for its 65000miles of diligent service.
since getting the VFR, it’s needed tyres, new rear shock (Hagon), front forks service and EBC front rota’s. Time to stop spending and start riding.
i hope to get lots of info on how to make the VFR better (read lighter!!) from this forum and will post bits and pieces I do if people are interested.
Pete
Petarm, welcome to the asylum. We'd love to see a picture of your machine to prove you are not a figment of our imagination.
May I suggest you check your steering head bearings. Every one of my five fifth gens needed them, some with as little as 25,000 miles on the odo. Replace with tapered roller bearings.
To check them, with the bike on the centerstand and the front end off the ground (I put a foundation brick on my pillion) slowly move the forks from lock to lock. If you detect a detent in the center, the bearing are shot.
Good luck with your R&R and ride safe.
Hi MaxSwell, yep head bearings were buggered too but I replaced them soon after buying the bike as they would have failed the MOT.
I’ve had a play-around with the front suspension (now 3full turns out from fully in) and softened the preload on the Hagon rear shock. It felt much better but still isn’t quite there yet.....I’m using it to commute for the majority of this week so should clock a few hundred test miles up and will post how I get on.
Also, I’ve raised the forks to 45mm through the yokes (factory is 39mm) and also lifted the clip-ons tight under the spring-rings on the forks which has allowed me to swivel the clip-ons outwards. Both these changes have helped me feel a lot more for what the front tyre is now doing, which is nice!
pete
Just got word from Powerbronze that my screen and hugger arrived in Melbourne and are now in the post on there way to me ( no Aust Post jokes I work for them 😄) Also just ordered a Cardo Freecom 4 plus ( JBL speaker’s) ordered from Chromeburner as even with postage it is a $100 cheaper than I can get it for in Oz. It was in FedEx’s hands less than 12 hrs after I ordered it. My cheapie Fodsports intercom is starting to cut out halfway through a ride so time for a upgrade.
MaxSwell, 6/13/2020 at 11:17 AMI think there is a short metal backing piece under the chain guard, nearly impossible to see or reach into which the screw goes. I'll have to go out and have another look but I remember having a heck of a time getting that attached in the past. I'll update later.
Yes, metal backing plate recessed under the chain guard, have to remove the guard from the swing arm (secured by push/pins) and reach under while threading the small bolts.
14 hours ago, MarcOttYes, metal backing plate recessed under the chain guard, have to remove the guard from the swing arm (secured by push/pins) and reach under while threading the small bolts.
Many Thanks to you both. I ended up removing the metal bracket, screwing the bolt through the chain guard to the metal bracket, and hammer it down as it looks like it was loose, at least now it's staying there 😃
Hi Everyone
Not today, but last Saturday I had a blast with our beloved VFR at Estoril Circuit 😃
Below link for the videos if you would like to "take a ride with me" 😈
Can't wait to go back with the new headers, and win a bit more time on the straights 😃
Fitted this neat little white LED waterproof Voltmeter to the bottom of the GPS mount on my 8gen. Previous 3 wire voltmeter had died. 14.5v charging (when measured at battery) allowing for the 200mv drop through the wiring, 14.3 at the meter.
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Dropped the bloody thing wheeling it back into the garage, caught the back of my shirt on the handlebar of my mountain bike and it pulled me off balance. Fortunately it went towards me not away and I managed to stop it but still managed somehow to snap off the mirror stem. Managed to get a used replacement on ebay but couldn't get to the electric connectors without taking all the side plastics off, what a pain! All sorted now.
Sjit heppenz..... 😐
All who are interested, I've moved my suspension queries into the 5th Gen forum in the below:
The bugger is still causing me concern.........
Pete
7 hours ago, fatshoutyblokeDropped the bloody thing wheeling it back into the garage, caught the back of my shirt on the handlebar of my mountain bike and it pulled me off balance. Fortunately it went towards me not away and I managed to stop it but still managed somehow to snap off the mirror stem. Managed to get a used replacement on ebay but couldn't get to the electric connectors without taking all the side plastics off, what a pain! All sorted now.
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I read that you had dropped the bike and them quickly glanced at the pictures and thought "Oh no, expensive" fortunately I read on, it's all for access.
Still not a good feeling, but at least you got away with it relatively well.
Philois1984, 6/22/2020 at 5:53 PMJust got word from Powerbronze that my screen and hugger arrived in Melbourne and are now in the post on there way to me ( no Aust Post jokes I work for them 😄) Also just ordered a Cardo Freecom 4 plus ( JBL speaker’s) ordered from Chromeburner as even with postage it is a $100 cheaper than I can get it for in Oz. It was in FedEx’s hands less than 12 hrs after I ordered it. My cheapie Fodsports intercom is starting to cut out halfway through a ride so time for a upgrade.
Am definitely interested to find out how you like the Cardo after you get some rides in, and not necessarily connected to other riders... i was looking at the Packtalk Bold w/JBL but it's A LOT more money. I really want to know how good the audio is (for music, and travel instructions), how effective the wind-noise cancellation is, and how responsive it is to voice commands directly to the Cardo or your mobile device.
5 hours ago, Goldcrown44Am definitely interested to find out how you like the Cardo after you get some rides in, and not necessarily connected to other riders... i was looking at the Packtalk Bold w/JBL but it's A LOT more money. I really want to know how good the audio is (for music, and travel instructions), how effective the wind-noise cancellation is, and how responsive it is to voice commands directly to the Cardo or your mobile device.
I am heading off on a 5 day ride in the middle of July, the mate I am travelling with has a M1-S Pro from Fodsports. I rarely ride in multiple rider groups so I am mainly concerned with the music quality, rider to rider voice quality and ease of use using voice commands. At this stage I don’t use navigation devices so can’t help you there. Like you the Pactalk Bold seemed a lot of money. Will keep you posted.
Hey everyone. Pretty new to the group. Recently picked up a 2014. This will be my third VFR and since April I've put almost 5000km on her. Love the way she rides and sings for me [image: emoji16.png]. List of mods is pretty small as of right now, bit looking to change it the chain and sprocket for faster acceleration. What's everyone running in their 8gen? I've also gutted the exhaust, not sure if I'm sticking with it, or changing it up. Big plans for lots of mods. Hahaha[image: 52384a789afac6083b8070332cacc4f8.jpg][image: ae03ecaf7be9d191d88f7b50a9006665.jpg][image: d8eb8bfff4c86688f0d7ff5837f4630c.jpg]
Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
Is that a family crest on the side?
Yes it is
Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
Stopped on the way home to mark a milestone...
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Rode it to the picturesque village of Finchingfield, well known to bikers in the East of England, with the Honda Owners Club Essex Branch in the Sunday sun!
Photo by Toni Teuntje Harris
[image: 2020-08-09_7.1 Essex HOC at Finchingfield.jpg]
48 minutes ago, fatshoutyblokeRode it to the picturesque village of Finchingfield, well known to bikers in the East of England, with the Honda Owners Club Essex Branch in the Sunday sun!
Photo by Toni Teuntje Harris
[image: 2020-08-09_7.1 Essex HOC at Finchingfield.jpg]
It's a bit waaaaaarm for riding at the mo. Unless yr up at 5am that is.
4 days of low 90's is great but not for biking.
53 minutes ago, SkidsIt's a bit waaaaaarm for riding at the mo. Unless yr up at 5am that is.
4 days of low 90's is great but not for biking.
🐱🐥......
6 minutes ago, Dutchy🐱🐥......
Yup. Guilty as charged, M'lud. :laugh:
You can't seriously enjoy riding in these temps? It's like someone is stood in front of you with a huge hairdryer, blowing hot air all over you. Which is fine whilst yr a bit sweaty, but as soon as it's all evaporated, yr just left toasting.
31 minutes ago, SkidsYup. Guilty as charged, M'lud. :laugh:
You can't seriously enjoy riding in these temps? It's like someone is stood in front of you with a huge hairdryer, blowing hot air all over you. Which is fine whilst yr a bit sweaty, but as soon as it's all evaporated, yr just left toasting.
You obviously haven’t ridden much in California .....
1 hour ago, SkidsYup. Guilty as charged, M'lud. :laugh:
You can't seriously enjoy riding in these temps? It's like someone is stood in front of you with a huge hairdryer, blowing hot air all over you. Which is fine whilst yr a bit sweaty, but as soon as it's all evaporated, yr just left toasting.
It gets pretty hot in Oz too. Mid 30c riding is pretty common. You just do it.
Skids Yup. Guilty as charged, M'lud. [image: :laugh:]
You can't seriously enjoy riding in these temps? It's like someone is stood in front of you with a huge hairdryer, blowing hot air all over you. Which is fine whilst yr a bit sweaty, but as soon as it's all evaporated, yr just left toasting.
But it’s a dry heat.[image: emoji12.png]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Returned from 4700km ride through outback Queensland (Sydney, Coffs Harbour, Moree, Roma, Augathella, Quilpie, Windorah, Longreach, Emerald, Miles, Inverell, Port Macquarie, Sydney) and spend a couple of hours debugging the Viffer. Luckily the Covid-19 restrictions post dated the ride. Whew. The country folks were well organised and kept everyone under control.
Changed the oil and filter and cleaned up the chain. Used Honda HP4 10W30 for the first time in 53,000kms. Have been using Motul 7100 10W40 for the last 47,000km and wanted to check if the Honda recommended grade cooled the motor a little. The HP4 was like pouring cooking oil into the bike. It seems pretty thin. It’s a semi synthetic so maybe it was the wrong call.
I have been using Dunlop Roadsmart 3s from the first change and easily get 20,000kms out of a rear. I’m a 68 year old so my boy racer days have vanished, maybe that is why the tyres last. Plenty of good and bad reviews for the Roadsmart 3s, but I like them.
I had to replace the water pump at 43,000kms after noticing coolant loss and a persistent drip. Easily done and everything is back to normal. Have seen the issue on other bikes.
I run a DID ZVMX chain with AFAM sprockets and standard gearing. I have replaced the whole lot a couple of times. Some guys seem to run their final drive a lot further, but I have found damaged O rings a couple of times, so I replace everything. I tend to do a weekly ride near the coast and might be picking up sand that cuts the O rings! I get the parts from the UK for about 20% less than in Sydney.
Pretty p$&&ded off that Honda aren’t bringing the VFR into OZ anymore, when you can still get them in Japan and, I think, the UK. The Kwaka Ninja 1000SX has killed it in OZ, but they won’t do 400km on a tank and who needs 1043cc.
Rant over!
Hi Guys. Looking for an recommendation for a front tire. 2016 vfr have let say OEM front and rear tires. In my 2009 vfr was Metzler tires. And in my 6 years of own it they have cooperated with me very well 🙂 my riding style is quite calm and not cornering. So maybe You will recommend me something.
Everyone has their own preference. Metzeler, Avon, Michelin, Pirelli, Bridgestone, Dunlop all make some good sport touring tyres. Rule number one would be to match the front with the back, if possible. Different brands behave differently. Plenty of comparison tests on the net.
Regarding riding in hot weather, I always wear an Aerostich Transit Suit, full Goretex-lined, and describe it as "Wearing a sauna while sitting on an oven." Lately I'm finding I like living so close to the Artic Circle. :tongue:
Rudny, 6/1/2020 at 5:18 PMHi guys! I have also some ideas to improve my VFR view and i will try to implement them in a few weeks, will keep you posted here
Hi everyone! So I want to share with you some updates that I made with my VFR.
1. Windshield - In the very first week after buying my VFR, I inadvertently managed to fall and break the windshield. I did not change it for a new one, but I decided to glue it and slightly change its shape. Then I covered it with a matte film on both sides. The whole work took about 2 hours. I love the new look, it sets the tone for the whole bike, and it looks a lot more aggressive than with the stock glass. As for aerodynamics, I can say that now, after 130km/h,you just have to cuddle a little lower against the fuel tank, then the wind won't blow you away, I don't feel any discomfort.
2. Brake and clutch levers - I didn't like the standard ones, they were big and harsh, especially the clutch. I ordered adjustable handles and it became much more comfortable.
3. Damper - For my little experience, thank God, I have not come across wobling, and I decided to postpone this meeting as much as possible. I ordered a Savage damper, let it be just in case.
4. Phone holder - unfortunately I didn't find any options that I liked or that were comfortable to use, so I had to use some wit. I had a large soft waterproof case for a mobile phone for a long time, I sewed (a master in the workshop) two double-sided Velcro for clothes to it and that's it - the holder is ready, it is very convenient to attach to the steering wheel, waterproof (it seems) and can be easily removed if necessary. There is also an input for charging the phone.
5. USB charging and battery charge indicator - there is nothing special to describe, the only thing - service guys was screwed it to the left fairing without my OK , I would prefer to do it next to the dashboard.
6. Heated handles - alas, it was not in my kit, but the previous owner took care of it and installed Oxford. They warm perfectly (tested by Russian frosts 🙂 )
7. Hagger (front and rear) - I thought for a long time whether I needed it at all, but an inexpensive original version turned up, and I decided to order it. The installation was not the most convenient, it was necessary to break a hand and a few fingers on purpose several times in order to tighten these bolts, but as a result everything went well 🙂
8. Exhaust - I rided with the original one for a year, but during this time I watched all the clips on YouTube about replacement options. I wanted to replace it not even because of the sound, but because of its appearance, since, in my opinion, the Japanese committed a crime by hiding such a beautiful wheel behind a piece of chrome can. As a result, I ordered Coffman (thanks for the review of Red On Vfr) I really really like the sound, the view is also beautiful.
9. Wardrobe trunk - this is Givi (famous Georgian name by the way 🙂 ) and I inherited it from the previous owner. 2 helmets fit, so I'm happy.
10. License plate fastener - the standard fastener (I don’t have its photo and, perhaps, it differs from the one that is sold in USA and causes much less irritation) - I was very pissed off it and in my opinion it spoiled the whole view of the rear of the motorcycle, and in addition until recently in Russia, motorcycle license plates were issued only in XXL size - it was ugly. In general, I had thoughts of completely modernizing the tail, cutting off both the number holder and the excess plastic intended for attaching the side trunks, which I do not have. There were even thoughts of buying and delivering a tail from the СBR ... But then common sense rebelled, and I decided not to engage in nonsense. I just unscrewed the standard fastener, bought a corner shelf holder at a hardware store, bent it at the angle I needed and assigned a small number plate to it, got it much better than it was and I calmed down 🙂
So, I apologize for such a large number of letters for such a minor tuning, but I was inspired by your forum and wanted to share not only specific actions, but also related emotions. If you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them. As motorcyclists in Russia say - rovnikh dorog! (I wish you a smooth roads!) 🙂
P.S. you can see photos below:
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Very nice Rudny!
The steering damper is not my cup of tea, but you are happy with it so nothing else matters!
The licence plate at that angle will get me a ticket over here for sure :laugh:
That ski jump place is Sochi?
2 hours ago, Dutchy...
The licence plate at that angle will get me a ticket over here for sure :laugh:
That ski jump place is Sochi?
Thank you!
In addition to the appearance, I also tried to maintain such a inclination degree, in which there would be no questions from the police and the number would not be visible to road speed cameras)
Yes, that was Sochi in June.
Welcome to the Mad House for VFRs and all things Honda V4 from the opposit side of the glob. That's a fabulous looking VFR. I do love the white ones.
Take care and ride safely.
Disconnected the flapper. Just makes more noise leading up to the VTEC point.
Reverting back soon
chutta, 10/7/2020 at 10:40 AMDisconnected the flapper. Just makes more noise leading up to the VTEC point.
Reverting back soon
Haven't noticed this at all and most likely the zone you're referring to is when the flapper would probably be open anyway.
I removed all the hardware just to free up the under tank area clutter, makes things a little easier working around the airbox etc. Have done more than 20,000k with no bad effects and subjectively, if anything, it's better without it. I can easily refit the system but have no desire or need to. Bike has just clocked over 76,000k's and running flawlessly - love the 8gen. Note, interesting that the system has been removed by Honda on the 2017 8gen model! That must mean something I guess.
It's strictly about noise and Honda going for overachiever status!
Cleaned and lubed the chain today... need to change the oil still...grrr
I changed out the brake and clutch fluid. I bought the bike new last summer (it was in the dealer warehouse for 4 years). And thought it was probably due. On the beer-o-meter it was an amber, now a lager! Clutch was much darker, maybe a Scotch Ale.
25 minutes ago, Badger1I changed out the brake and clutch fluid. I bought the bike new last summer (it was in the dealer warehouse for 4 years). And thought it was probably due. On the beer-o-meter it was an amber, now a lager! Clutch was much darker, maybe a Scotch Ale.
I'll lay a bet it was the original fluid. Brake and clutch bleed on an 8gen is a very easy job. So easy I just do it every 12 months.
Removed my broken comp-werkes tail tidy bracket and replaced it with the VFR12OO tail tidy from Comp-Werkes.
Original owner bent some other model up, but it had stress cracks and eventually failed. VFR12OO model tidy fits right in there...a lil fiddling with the license plate light housing gasket and its a pretty simple install.
Found this buckle in the rim a few weeks ago. Not sure whether it was from a cattle grid in far west Queensland or one of my local goat tracks. Didn’t ever lose pressure, but I couldn’t sleep at night. Repairing it mucked up the finish so I had the rims painted black.
1 hour ago, VFR78Found this buckle in the rim a few weeks ago. Not sure whether it was from a cattle grid in far west Queensland or one of my local goat tracks. Didn’t ever lose pressure, but I couldn’t sleep at night. Repairing it mucked up the finish so I had the rims painted black.
[image: E5497EA4-B5B5-4834-89F9-367685F37C4A.jpeg]
Mate. That looks Great. I've always liked the OEM bronze but the black with red trim tape looks very smart love it.
Here's a tip....buy yourself a tube of Autosol Metal Polish and polish up the nice nickel chrome exhaust just under your right footpeg, it does a great job. Here's my bike and after 76,000k pipe looks like new.
Cheers.
[image: 20201102_125055.jpg]
1 hour ago, VFR78Found this buckle in the rim a few weeks ago. Not sure whether it was from a cattle grid in far west Queensland or one of my local goat tracks. Didn’t ever lose pressure, but I couldn’t sleep at night. Repairing it mucked up the finish so I had the rims painted black.
[image: E5497EA4-B5B5-4834-89F9-367685F37C4A.jpeg]
I agree with Grum - that does look great. Looks like you painted the clutch cover as well . . . ? Just curious - how did you have the rim repaired? Around here shops that do that will not touch a motorcycle wheel.
Guys,
I will get some Autosol ASAP. Tend to just give it a once over with Jif, when the road gunk builds up, but you have made me feel very slack!
The clutch cover has an R&G protector over it. I have to admit I dropped the Viffer about a month after I bought it in 2014, during a walking pace U turn and put some minor marks on the clutch cover and the upper fairing . Hence the R&G cover, the US Interceptor badges and the fake carbon patches up high.
The wheel was fixed by a motorcycle smash repairer in Sydney with minor heat I think. They send the wheels out to a Sydney wheel guru, if it’s too much for them or to an uber wheel guru in Melbourne, if it’s really bad.
I sent photos to a few wheel guys, before I bit the bullet, and all were confident they could fix it, but would damage the bronze colour. I would not have changed the colour, if the bronze wasn’t damaged.
Put some new soft luggage on from Tourmaster and headed down to Philadelphia for a night ride. Bags shifted forward somehow, right bag coming to rest on top of muffler. Later I realized it had lightly fried a 2" spot on the bag. Right under the can of fix a flat I had in there. That could've been a hot gooey mess. So I discreetly bungeed the bags to the license bracket area to keep them pulled back and away from exhaust. But this seemed like a good excuse to order a semi=shorty Delkevic. Plus I'm trading up to a RideOn sealant instead...
Replaced old carbone lorraine front brake pads with new carbone lorraine
front brake pads. I think I got my money's worth out of the old pads !
[image: IMG_a3709.thumb.jpg.1a29b477457163ac132bc0259815b927.jpg]
Hahahahah!!!! I still have original '86 pads on rear of my VF500F. 🙂
After 72000 mi on my VFR the rear pads are still original and mostly unused....
1 hour ago, RC79NC001After 72000 mi on my VFR the rear pads are still original and mostly unused....
Holy cow! 115,872kms! :ohmy: That's Unbelievable, do you actually use your rear brake? Must be a hell of a lot of highway riding with that distance surely.
My 8gen OEM rear pads were spent at 49,000kms, I thought that was good going! Fitted EBC 488 HH's
Grum,
I'm like you - I use my rear brake a lot, so my rear pads wear out more or less at the same time as the fronts.
5 hours ago, CogswellGrum,
I'm like you - I use my rear brake a lot, so my rear pads wear out more or less at the same time as the fronts.
Me too. I always try to get what I can out of the rear wheel braking and maximizing what I can from front, always aiming to achieve optimum brake balance. That's what I've been taught by the experts.
5 hours ago, GrumHoly cow! 115,872kms! :ohmy: That's Unbelievable, do you actually use your rear brake? Must be a hell of a lot of highway riding with that distance surely.
My 8gen OEM rear pads were spent at 49,000kms, I thought that was good going! Fitted EBC 488 HH's
I had 70,000 miles on my rear pads too! I mean I took them out to clean the caliper etc. Recently I went with some sort of organic pad set up and cleaned the caliper and used new seals etc. I recently got a new braided brake line too from the UK. No pictures but bike has all steel lines around like all my other stuff has. Beautiful build quality not duplicated now, love these bikes.
Here's my front pad only history.
Original Pads replaced at 33801 Mi with Ferodos ,did not care for the way the Ferodos felt. They were replaced after 18290 Mi with CL set 1.
Ferodos replaced at 52091 Mi with CL Pads. CL1 set 1 was replaced after 20200 Mi with CL set 2. The pads you see in the picture are CL1 at the end of life and CL2 at the beginning.
The CLs suit my aggressive MotoGP wannabe style.
I suspect the rear pads will remain OEM well into the 100k mi zone..
I watch a lot of MotoGp and try to copy the style.....discreetly on the street.
Suspension upgrade in 2018 probably a factor in increased riding aggression...and resulting tire wear/ brake pad life.
Forum members please ignore my last posted references to MotoGP anything...
That sounds ridiculous...
I just don't use my back brake....much.
and prefer CL pads when the fronts wear out.
TGIF !!!
RC79NC001, 1/7/2021 at 6:12 AMAfter 72000 mi on my VFR the rear pads are still original and mostly unused....
2 hours ago, RC79NC001I just don't use my back brake....much.
Mate PLEASE, change your braking technique. Proper coordinated use of both front and rear is what pulls you up the quickest when needed. Not to mention the importance of the rear brake under certain cornering conditions and the feathering of the rear brake in slow walking pace riding etc. And especially in wet conditions.
In an EMERGENCY proper braking technique of both front AND rear, seriously, could save your life!!!
72,000miles on the OEM rear pads, and mostly unused is Extraordinary!!!!
Safe riding. :fing02:
Replaced the Air Filter 20000kms
Replaced my R/R on my lunch hour today, easy peasy. The Roadstercylce kit made it pretty simple. LED brake light bulbs while I had the tail off.
Replaced plugs, tightened chain, took a wheel to the shop to have a new tire mounted. Put my tail and left side faring back on. Tomorrow I put the front wheel back on and I'm ready to ride some but the weather won't cooperate this weekend, today was gorgeous.
Today I took my beauty from the repair, and I hope I will no longer come across reckless drivers on the roads.
Badger1, 10/24/2020 at 12:59 PMI installed a front fender extender to minimize the gunk I'm picking up from the road. Too bad the front wheel had to come off.
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Have you noticed that it makes much difference? I've really been considering on getting one for my 6th gen, but haven't been convinced it was long enough to provide much benefit - Cheers!
After a ride, there used to be grit on the valve cover. I wanted to prevent the beautiful bronze from getting sandblasted over time.
Badger1, 2/13/2021 at 10:10 PMAfter a ride, there used to be grit on the valve cover. I wanted to prevent the beautiful bronze from getting sandblasted over time.
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Wish my front cover looked like that. Despite a fender extender the British winters have taken its toll.
Thumbs, 8/11/2020 at 6:53 AM
You obviously haven’t ridden much in California .....
Harden up guys - met a fellow idiot in Western Australia, sheltering under the one tree for hundreds of kms. His Enfield had a thermometer attached - 52C. Science experiment for the day: evaporative cooling of a water soaked t-shirt in extreme heat and low humidity conditions - i.e. WA 50+ degree day, long way from the coast and a bit of humidity, 90-100km/hr. Felt cooling effect for approximately 180 seconds. At 240 seconds bone dry.
Nope - wasn't going to wear leathers that day.....
At least it’s a dry heat😀 I would rig camelback so it is dripping...
Have you tried ice west?
Magneto, 2/21/2021 at 12:24 AMAt least it’s a dry heat😀 I would rig camelback so it is dripping...
Have you tried ice west?
And when your camel back runs dry and you've still got 300km to the next road house (for those not familiar - there aint NOTHING in between road houses)??
Yeah, and the ice WEST (assume you mean VEST)...the chances of finding a freezer every hundred km out there is ....oh yeah, there's one next to the snowflake on the flying pig!
Parts of Western Australia can be pretty hard core. Rivals Western Sahara. I know - rode thru both.
10 hours ago, PressonFitted Goodrich speed bleeders and changed the brake fluid. Why hadn't I found these before. So much easier especially on the rear. Then did an illicit 50 miles ( we are still under restrictions in the UK) to check the brakes and explore the limit of adhesion.
Damn you! I've been holding out this week and it's been so difficult with the great weather. :beer:
So are you subject to fine or arrest if you are out riding? Here we have mask requirement and limited gatherings, but as far as being out on the roads, there's been no restriction other than the weather.
Only essential travel allowed although police forces are not all equal in how they enforce that. I'm hoping that if stopped my need to source a new 'flange handle' will avoid the £250 fine....
1 hour ago, PressonOnly essential travel allowed although police forces are not all equal in how they enforce that. I'm hoping that if stopped my need to source a new 'flange handle' will avoid the £250 fine....
Don't forget to give your name as Mr D Cummings, they'll wave you on your way with a smile.
3 hours ago, SEdwardsDon't forget to give your name as Mr D Cummings, they'll wave you on your way with a smile.
Or put 2 caps in the back of your head....... :tongue:
Today fitted rear Honda hugger and a Delkevic exhaust.
Nice hugger! :fing02:
What brand and do they make 'm for the VFR750F 90-97 as well??
9 hours ago, DutchyNice hugger! :fing02:
What brand and do they make 'm for the VFR750F 90-97 as well??
This is a Honda manufactured one. Got lucky on eBay found it with 35% off.
Mounted up an Arrow exhaust i got of FB vfr800 owners group... of course it's supposed to rain/ snow tomorrow...
Dutchy, 4/11/2021 at 10:32 AMNice hugger! :fing02:
What brand and do they make 'm for the VFR750F 90-97 as well??
I also have one fitted to my bike, neat and tidy and unobtrusive. There is a bike shop seller on Ebay (UK) with a few for sale for the 8th Gen if it is of interest.
Replaced my air filter. Still had the original one fitted, didn’t look too bad to me ? But I changed it anyway. Tank only had around 1 to 2 litres of fuel which made it much easier. Made sure the breather hose wasn’t kinked when I lowered the tank.[image: E83D1F57-4D55-4E78-8036-A3CE34E895C0.thumb.jpeg.78d269283bb088fe37c8c24f4f778457.jpeg][image: E43D07A1-44CF-45BF-8070-B2492B2CEC17.thumb.jpeg.6ba4b8ea2d8e624a20f38db7c6347ff1.jpeg][image: B67C3FD1-6B72-42FA-B174-030C152F3859.thumb.jpeg.e9e8d92b49590feb86c8f5fc89885541.jpeg]
Nice job Philois1984. Yes, very important with the 8gen to pull on the breather hose to take up the slack while you're lowering the tank back down.
Went for a ride... wasn't out for long, but it felt good
And of course its supposed to snow tomorrow
10 hours ago, VFR4MeWent for a ride... wasn't out for long, but it felt good
And of course its supposed to snow tomorrow
Yeah, stepped out to my garage 2 days ago to see snow quietly falling.
No test ride that day.
Spent the day installing new brake and turn signal additions.
Started the bike just to hear the sound.
I got her front end naked today 😈
fitted a rad guard on her took about an hour to do with a coffee and the kids comings to “help”
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Did a thing…
Installed a new seat cover - the original started cracking a few weeks ago, and all of a sudden, it was opening up in six or seven places throughout the seat. Looks better than stock and not nearly as slippery. Also did an oil change, coolant change and air filter. good to go for the summer. Also did coolant and oil on the RC51.
Just realized this is in the 8th gen forum, must be the fumes from the contact cement on the seat cover...
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I just purchased a set of Michelin Road Pilot 2s from Amazon for $230. It will be another $100 to get them mounted. Doing a few burnouts to use up the original tires. 7500 miles on them, pretty old, so the burnouts are very easy and easier on the bike. Not much smoke, either. I haven't done a burnout since 1990-something on my GS1100. Not as much fun as I remember....
Purchased a NOS passenger pillion from Ebay for a very reasonable price. I just need to find the grab handles. I purchased the bike in October with 700 miles on it. It has the cowl set up.The dealer had less than zero interest in assisting with sourcing these items.
Tank bag and saddle bags for an upcoming road trip through Colorado and Utah to Las Vegas.
Next up is a tire hugger and steel braided brake lines. Although, I am considering moving up the 847 stator dealio in the pecking order.
Cleaned and lubed chain
Washed and waxed
Now it sits waiting for the sun to come out later this week
After a two week Covid-19 lockdown due again to Quarantine incompetence, and now with only a 25km distance from home tavel allowance.🤬
Did a basic service 84,000kms. Oil and filter, airfilter, fuelled her up and added a small bottle of injector cleaner, then went for a short run up the highway, and some back roads. Put an instant smile on my face. Love this baby and she continues to purr like a kitten. :fing02:
Cheers. :beer:
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Question Grum.
Are you still on the original wheel bearings?
51 minutes ago, VFR78Question Grum.
Are you still on the original wheel bearings?
Yes Sir. No issues at all. Have you had bearing problems?
No issues yet, but a local mechanic (cars) has suggested that sealed bearings are usually done by 60,000kms.
I’m heading off on a 9,000km trip into Central OZ in August and was wondering if new bearings should be on the “to do” list before heading off.
Currently, I’m just doing all the fluids, chain & sprockets, filters, tyres and brake pads.
Hi Grum, first time
11 hours ago, GrumAfter a two week Covid-19 lockdown due again to Quarantine incompetence, and now with only a 25km distance from home tavel allowance.🤬
Did a basic service 84,000kms. Oil and filter, airfilter, fuelled her up and added a small bottle of injector cleaner, then went for a short run up the highway, and some back roads. Put an instant smile on my face. Love this baby and she continues to purr like a kitten. :fing02:
Cheers. :beer:
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Hi Grum, first time I have noticed the small HRC decal, is a Repsol one to follow? 🤔
7 hours ago, Philois1984Hi Grum, first time I have noticed the small HRC decal, is a Repsol one to follow? 🤔
Hi Philois. How ya going up there in the warm north? Haha good observation Philois and no a Repsol one won't be following. It might be over 15years ago I acquired a set of Honda decals and stumbled across them not long ago, forgetting I had them. Thought I'd give the HRC a go seeing there was two of them, put them down low to be a little discrete! They can easily come off if I get sick of them.
Cheers. :fing02:
10 hours ago, VFR78No issues yet, but a local mechanic (cars) has suggested that sealed bearings are usually done by 60,000kms.
I’m heading off on a 9,000km trip into Central OZ in August and was wondering if new bearings should be on the “to do” list before heading off.
Currently, I’m just doing all the fluids, chain & sprockets, filters, tyres and brake pads.
Thats strange. Had a 1980 Mazda 6 did 320,000k, ED Falcon another 300,000k a BA Falcon 265,000k. My partners current 2013 Mazda 3 123,000k.
Four VFR's, my previous 6gen sold with 94,000ks.
All of the above never needed wheel bearings!
However my partners 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer did chew out a front left bearing but can't remember the mileage.
Are you only referring to the front wheel bearings? And how many k's have you done? Pop the bike on the centre stand and have someone push on the rear to raise the front, give the wheel a spin, it should be smooth and free spinning, you may need to remove the calipers to check this.
12 minutes ago, GrumThats strange. Had a 1980 Mazda 6 did 320,000k, ED Falcon another 300,000k a BA Falcon 265,000k. My partners current 2013 Mazda 3 123,000k.
Four VFR's, my previous 6gen sold with 94,000ks.
All of the above never needed wheel bearings!
However my partners 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer did chew out a front left bearing but can't remember the mileage.
Are you only referring to the front wheel bearings? And how many k's have you done? Pop the bike on the centre stand and have someone push on the rear to raise the front, give the wheel a spin, it should be smooth and free spinning, you may need to remove the calipers.
From the members I've seen here that needed new front wheel bearings they had seen more than occasional rain. Washing a bike with profuse amounts of water the way one would bathe a car is probably also not good for bearing's longevity and by no means ever pressure wash a bike. As Grum said, they should go a good long way and will give some signs of feeling rough before catastrophic failure. When the wheel is off, use an index finger to press in firmly and turn the races slowly. If there's no roughness and they're silent you should be good to go.
7 minutes ago, CogswellWashing a bike with profuse amounts of water the way one would bathe a car is probably also not good for bearing's longevity and by no means ever pressure wash a bike
Good point here. Keep high pressure water washers well away from bearing areas. They will definitely prematurely destroy bearings.
30 minutes ago, GrumThats strange. Had a 1980 Mazda 6 did 320,000k, ED Falcon another 300,000k a BA Falcon 265,000k. My partners current 2013 Mazda 3 123,000k.
Four VFR's, my previous 6gen sold with 94,000ks.
All of the above never needed wheel bearings!
However my partners 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer did chew out a front left bearing but can't remember the mileage.
Are you only referring to the front wheel bearings? And how many k's have you done? Pop the bike on the centre stand and have someone push on the rear to raise the front, give the wheel a spin, it should be smooth and free spinning, you may need to remove the calipers to check this.
Only looking at the rear bearings. I replaced the fronts when I had the ding repaired and wheels painted. Just because it was simple to do. The back runs smoothly. Maybe my mechanic is talking out the other end. My FG2 XR6 has 102,000kms on it and he’s never looked at it’s bearings! The bike has 62,000kms on it and all seems good. Just concerned that if something goes wrong in the boonies I have to park it under a tree and catch a bus.
I’ve put a Kaoko and the low Motopumps on it for the trip. Years are catching up with me! I think the only benefit of the Motopumps might be in my head, not my body.
6 minutes ago, VFR78Only looking at the rear bearings. I replaced the fronts when I had the ding repaired and wheels painted. Just because it was simple to do. The back runs smoothly. Maybe my mechanic is talking out the other end. My FG2 XR6 has 102,000kms on it and he’s never looked at it’s bearings! The bike has 62,000kms on it and all seems good. Just concerned that if something goes wrong in the boonies I have to park it under a tree and catch a bus.
Your rear main bearing is more protected than the fronts. If it spins nicely and by grabbing the wheel and checking for any axial play, if thats ok then don't worry.
Thanks Grum.
There are four bearings in the back, so it’s not an easy job!
Cogswell, 5/18/2021 at 9:55 AMFinally got around to fitting an 847 today. I've had no problems with the 6th gen OEM R/R but after 32,000 miles its output had become less stable. I have a Datel voltmeter and where it used to run at a steady 14.6v, it was moving around more between about 14.5v and 14.8v. The latter was making me uneasy b/c if it begins to fail and spikes too high it can possibly affect the ECU. This is an easier swap than I think widely believed and a great upgrade for the stator's life. Got it from Jack at Roadstercycle. The kit is really clean and very robust. If you're not familiar, the 847 is a series regulator that only turns the stator on as needed vs OEM which runs the stator flat out at all times and shunts excess current off as heat. There are more details on that topic on the Roadster website.
This is Mello Dude's flip plate. The 2 protruding bolts are carriage bolts that secure in square holes in the plate and mount the 847. The 2 chamfered holes with the flathead screws mount to the stock 6th gen R/R mounting holes.
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A minor issue on a 6th gen is the fairing stay (below). If installed over the carriage bolt head, the stay will be pushed slightly out of position. To keep the stay in the correct place a stack of 3 washers was added to clearance the plate so it doesn't interfere with it.
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View of washer insert.
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Final install, below. Once the 847 is bolted to the plate it covers the 2 chamfered mounting bolts preventing them from backing out, so no need for Loctite or similar. For the 847 mounting bolts I had 2 nuts with nylon locking collars laying around. Once snug, this install is rock solid. Note the wiring - very robust. The connectors come crimped and sealed so very clean. Note that now the stator connector will be on the stator side of the bike. I ordered the 847 with 4 feet of battery wire and 3 feet of stator wire and sheathing for the stator wires. The sheathing is not necessary, but does keep the wires bundled when threading them beneath the throttle body. I trimmed the stator wires but left enough for a short loop inside the frame so that in the event of any damage to the wires or connectors I can pull a bit more through and re-connect. The battery wire turned out to be too long, so rather than cut and re-connect, etc, I created a loop of wire behind the rear cam cover and zip tied it. The stock R/R connector can just be seen under the black 847 connector tucked behind the radiator mount post. Just tape it off and leave it.
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This is a comparison of the stock R/R with the 847. The stock R/R initially confused me and I'm sure others with its multiple wires. The two pair of red/white and green are duplicate wires as the gauge of the wires is less than desireable. The 847 uses much heavier wires allowing for a single strand run of wire.
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Part of my electrical system maintenance routine is to treat connectors with Oxgard and these were no exception.
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My stator connectors are done with Posi-locks. The nice thing about them is that their locking collars screw in to the connector barrel, making them field serviceable without tools and makes stator removal a snap. I've run these on my stator for years with no issue. This is a spare set of various sizes I carry. Co-incidentally the yellow ones are the gauge needed for the stator wires. The 847 kit wiring has thicker insulation than typical, so I had to use a drill to open the collar diameter slightly - makes for a very rugged and tight fit. The 847 is an easy bolt-on upgrade and IMHO would probably solve many owners' electrical gremlins.
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So now with some miles on the 847, an update. Even tho this forum is 8th gen, maybe it still applies to someone that might want to go this direction. Going down the road the '47 regulates to 14.5v very consistently, no complaints. It also cleans up the wiring around the frame and is a clean installation, another plus. OTOH, this unit displays some strange behavior at lower revs and at idle. For context, I've checked out my (10,000 mile) stator for both resistance and voltage, at the 847 connector (to account for any drops across the connection to the stator). It ohm's out perfectly, and voltages at 1,200, 3,000, 4,000 and 5,000 rpm's are 20v, 30v, 40v, and 55v. As far as I can tell those numbers are within specification of a properly functioning stator. I took those readings on a 90 degree day after a long ride and the engine was well heat soaked.
While I replaced my OEM R/R due to increased fluctuation to the high side (sometimes seeing 14.8v vs previously a very steady 14.6v), I never had any trouble with it at idle with either high beams on or the fan running. I would get in the range of 13.3 to 13.5 volts with either going. Not great, but not a concern, either as at least I know the battery is not being discharged.
Enter the 847. At 1,200 idle, I get battery voltage (12.8v) or less - 12.7v. Here's the strange part. Sometimes if I bring the revs up I get low 13's with it, sometimes not. On one occasion while stopped I decided to continue increasing revs to see if I could get it in to the 13's - I finally gave up at 8,000. At that point the stator is putting out what, 70 to 80 volts? And the 847 can't regulate enough power for the voltage to be any better than the battery? My lowly OEM R/R could do that . . . Now maybe this isn't a big deal. This could be going on for a lot of riders and they never know it b/c they don't have a volt meter (mine is a Datel with a 1 significant digit display). Still stranger, other times it will bring up the voltage at low revs - after one stop light patiently watching the meter at 12.7v, traffic began moving and at under 3,000 rpm in 1st gear it was showing 14.0v with the fan still running. ??? I don't know if this somehow has something to do with 847's "switching the stator off and on" and it has trouble doing that under certain load conditions, or what. I emailed Jack at Roadster Cycle (where I bought it) and he attributed it to low stator output. Hmmm . . . sorry Jack, I don't think so. A healthy stator at 8,000 rpm should provide enough amps at the voltage it's supplying to give the fan the watts it consumes - if the regulator can control it. There's more to this story that I don't know. Maybe this is how series regulators behave, not sure. I cannot find anything about it in my research on it.
The main worry about the low voltage with the fan going is because of the situation where this is likely to happen - idling in a traffic jam. I can't let the engine overheat, and I don't want the battery going flat running the fan whilst the R/R is unable to regulate to sufficient voltage to at least prevent the battery from discharging. If this happened with a heated vest, well, just turn the dumb thing off. The added factor in all this is that I have HID headlights, and those consume significantly less power than the stock H4's, so there should be extra available to run the fan, but apparently not. If H4's consume 55watts each, at 20v supplied that would be about 5 to 6 amps (someone please correct me if needed). If the HID's are 70% of that, then call it 70 watts then call it 4 amps needed if the fan draws 30 watts for a total of 100w, plus what's needed to run the balance of the electrics (ECU, etc), then maybe the total consumption is 125 watts (just guessing). At 20v , the stator would need to produce what, 6 to 7 amps, and Jack's telling me my low mile, verified stator can't produce 7 amps??? Well, maybe not . . . Something isn't right with this. I get it that voltage will drop as the draw increases - but I had a better time of it with the OEM R/R. I've been over the wiring carefully, checked each connection, ohm'd them out - everything looks and tests out correct. I don't have an ammeter - wish I did - that would tell me what I'm probably looking for - is it stator output, or is it the 847??
The silver lining in this is that if it does indeed run the stator cooler, then hopefully it will never end up BBQ'd as it did in the past. And hopefully the 847's internals are more robust and likely to last longer than a typical shunt R/R.
Sorry for my long rant - but now looking at it, would I make this swap again? Right now I'm not sure - leaning toward "probably not". It may have its advantages, but consistency of regulation, particularly at low rpm's is not one of them. Hopefully it won't leave me stranded if I get caught in a long backup in hot weather.
Hi Cogs.
Further to my PM. Have you tried back probing the 3 phase into the R/R while connected. If you are seeing 20vac measuring with the plug removed at idle, it my well be less when plugged in.
Nice install you've done. Would certainly try heatsink compound in between the R/R and mounting plate.
There could well be a chance the SH847 is faulty particularly if you can determine good AC input while connected to the R/R. It's own thermal protection could also be comming into play, rightly or wrongly. Trust you also have the genuine Shindengen version.
Don't have any experience with the SH847, but there appears to be very few complaints from those who have used the genuine item. The 847 should be the Rolls Royce of R/R's shame for some reason your not getting that performance.
38 minutes ago, GrumHi Cogs.
Further to my PM. Have you tried back probing the 3 phase into the R/R while connected. If you are seeing 20vac measuring with the plug removed at idle, it my well be less when plugged in.
Nice install you've done. Would certainly try heatsink compound in between the R/R and mounting plate.
There could well be a chance the SH847 is faulty particularly if you can determine good AC input while connected to the R/R. It's own thermal protection could also be comming into play, rightly or wrongly. Trust you also have the genuine Shindengen version.
Don't have any experience with the SH847, but there appears to be very few complaints from those who have used the genuine item. The 847 should be the Rolls Royce of R/R's shame for some reason your not getting that performance.
Grum, thanks for the suggestion - I'll give the volts AC a check while connected and see what it says. Regarding the heat sink, there is some limitation to that with this swap. The mounting plate adapter stands off slightly from the frame so there's no direct contact with the mounting plate to the frame. Regarding thermal protection, it seems to have the fan on / low voltage idle issue after a cold start (I checked since I have the fan switch), so while a possibility, it seems unlikely. As I mentioned, maybe I'm making too much of it. What I may do is ship it back to the vendor and ask him to re-test it - he claims to test them all prior to shipping. He seems like a stand up guy, we'll see. I really want to like this unit - and when going down the road, I do! But sitting in traffic, no so much. I'll report back what the AC reading is.
1 hour ago, GrumHi Cogs.
Further to my PM. Have you tried back probing the 3 phase into the R/R while connected. If you are seeing 20vac measuring with the plug removed at idle, it my well be less when plugged in.
Nice install you've done. Would certainly try heatsink compound in between the R/R and mounting plate.
There could well be a chance the SH847 is faulty particularly if you can determine good AC input while connected to the R/R. It's own thermal protection could also be comming into play, rightly or wrongly. Trust you also have the genuine Shindengen version.
Don't have any experience with the SH847, but there appears to be very few complaints from those who have used the genuine item. The 847 should be the Rolls Royce of R/R's shame for some reason your not getting that performance.
Grum,
Further update. I successfully backprobed the stator wires at the R/R while connected to the R/R. I have some alligator clips with solid core wire that make that easy. Across all 3 pairs voltages were as follows:
1,200 rpm 14 to 15v
2,000 rpm 20v
5,000 rpm 44v
Those readings are 20% to 25% less than when I test them with the connector removed from the R/R (and the latter was done at the R/R connector, so the only variable is being attached to the R/R vs not). Now the question is "would that be expected?". Even if yes, it still doesn't explain the behavior of running up to high rpm and not having the voltage move with the fan running. But, it could be a piece of the puzzle. I am at a loss as how the series regulators work vs the shunt type.
Many thanks
Cogs
Well I could certainly understand that with only 14 to 15vac on the input, the R/R might struggle to regulate the output with load to 14.5vdc. Guess its all about the R/Rs minimum input operating voltage threshold.
The other thing that could easily be checked, and its a long shot, but your main Red dc output wire fuse or c/b. You don't want to have any strange voltage drop across this device as the R/R needs to be monitoring your battery voltage under varying loads to regulate properly. So with the bike running and switching your fan on to load things up, Do You See Exactly the Same Voltage on each terminal of your Fuse or C/B? If not then you have a voltage drop situation, not good!
Like the idea of having Roadstercycle functionally test your R/R. If the test is good then there must be a stator issue you'd think!
Sounds like what I just finished doing to my 99 VFR. Stater checks out good with static and running test. R/R checks out good. Its a newer SH689DA. Cut, soldered stater wires w heat shrink tube and added some electical tape. Wires and stator both get fairly warm not hot.
Negative cable was slightly loose on first inspection and LAC battery is roughly 4 yrs old. Replaced with heavier output LI battery. Ordering voltmeter next and FH020AA R/R as back up for future swap.
Adding new tires for Laguna Seca AMA races July 8-10. Conti motion rear and Conti Sport Attack front.
Also bought new soft tail bag to replace my failed hard luggage rack. An overloaded 46L top box and very rough trucking corridor I have to ride to work are to blame.
So now my back pack is worn. Good thing I recently lost 40 lbs. Haha. Cheers
20210503_172854.mp411 hours ago, GrumWell I could certainly understand that with only 14 to 15vac on the input, the R/R might struggle to regulate the output with load to 14.5vdc. Guess its all about the R/Rs minimum input operating voltage threshold.
The other thing that could easily be checked, and its a long shot, but your main Red dc output wire fuse or c/b. You don't want to have any strange voltage drop across this device as the R/R needs to be monitoring your battery voltage under varying loads to regulate properly. So with the bike running and switching your fan on to load things up, Do You See Exactly the Same Voltage on each terminal of your Fuse or C/B? If not then you have a voltage drop situation, not good!
Like the idea of having Roadstercycle functionally test your R/R. If the test is good then there must be a stator issue you'd think!
Grum,
Thanks for the suggestions. The c/b wiring has ring terminals to / from the breaker. As a test, thinking I'll temporarily move the hot wire directly to the battery to bypass the breaker to remove that from the equation - see what happens.
Maybe it's just time for a stator rewind. Darn these M/C charging systems - they should be more robust - they're barely adequate when they work properly. Seems like they could have designed a shaft driven alternator with an internal regulator that's air cooled - like all cars have, and spared us all the headaches.
edit:
So removing the c/b from the circuit does seem to help - although this experiment was done at a cold start. I could keep it around 1,500 to 1,750 rpm and get 14v with the fan going. It's tough to isolate each variable - maybe heat soak is factoring in to this for the 847, thermo-regulating itself, or maybe it's just the c/b does not have sufficient capacity. At any rate, I have a midi-fuse holder and some 30A fuses on the way - will try that and see if anything changes.
I didn't do anything to my bike today...I did however clean out all the junk that was behind it so I can get the ol 8th gen out for a ride this week
Bath time!
Took the baffle out of the Akra to annoy the neighbours some more, fitted a Scottoiler and went for a little run along the NE Scottish coast
Edited July 4, 2021 by LoveViffersAdd another what I did
Not today but Sunday - rode it (in the rain!) to the the famous Ace Cafe in North London for the Honda Owner's Club UK's 60th Anniversary Honda Day. Quite a few bikes there of all sizes and ages from Cubs to Gold Wings. Mine not looking bad for 50,000 miles plus.
Replaced a set of worn out Pirelli Angel GT (1950 miles, Yes 1950) with a set of pilot powers that I got at a very reasonable price . Bedded them in today. Not having used sports tyres in over a decade last set being Bt016, I quite like them but no doubt will kill them off in no time.
I templated and cut reflective decals for my cases...
I rode it to/ from work in 100° weather... wish I would have worn my mesh pants today instead of my non vented pants over my jeans...ugh
22 minutes ago, VFR4MeI rode it to/ from work in 100° weather... wish I would have worn my mesh pants today instead of my non vented pants over my jeans...ugh
If it's over 95°f, the airflow thru the mesh will make you hotter than if you are sealed up. You'll dehydrate faster also. It's better to seal up, or use vents to give a little airflow.
3 hours ago, SparkieIf it's over 95°f, the airflow thru the mesh will make you hotter than if you are sealed up. You'll dehydrate faster also. It's better to seal up, or use vents to give a little airflow.
Yes, and no.....
Rode in vented jacket and pants for 200 miles today, at 95-102 degree temps.
Long sleeve T-shirt and base layer bottoms made it more than bearable.
Same principal, different gear.
ironbutt_1002_62-66_Hot.pdf
As above, joined the new tire club today. Got Road 2's (love these tires) from a vendor on Amazon. The ones coming off had 7,933 miles on them. They would have gone longer, but a long trip is upcoming and I wanted new rubber. I taught myself to DIY my tire changes, so that makes it go down easier. Plus I don't have to wait for a shop and make multiple trips to drop off / pick up.
Filling up at Costco the day prior. For those of you that have not been to a Costco previously - some have enormous capacity - this one can fill 24 cars at a time - 8 lanes each 3 deep. This was in the a.m. so it was still slow. I asked once when an 18 wheel truck was there filling the underground tanks how many of those they get per week - maybe one every few days? The reply floored me - they told me that they get 3 or 4 delivery trucks every day!
[image: 948709112_Capture1.thumb.JPG.684400963921235fe390c575db6eabbf.JPG]
Installing the front. If you have the right tools, this is not a bad job at all. I've done around 15 sets now for both myself and friends. The block of wood was to keep the tire lever from resting on the rotor. Just after this photo was shot the lever came around the steel bar clockwise to finish it off - it was complete in under a minute. Note the lube on the tire bead - it would be nearly impossible without it. Levering the tire off is just as easy - just use the opposite end of the bar with the removal bit on it. The hardest part for me might be breaking the bead. I have a home-made setup using a 2x4 and some other wood pieces. It works, but it's by no means elegant - but it gets 'er done. Note the car rim underneath - kind of hard to see (there is heater hose around the perimeter so no wheel scratches) to keep the rotor from touching anything. I have not switched to metal stems - probably should - so I change the stems with every set of tires. Just like the tires - they break down with time.
Link to the tire lever - I consider it a good investment - very happy with it. (Looks like the price has gone up since I bought mine).
https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm
[image: 1752907071_Capture3.thumb.JPG.aae785906da1427547d72f95e2aa3e8e.JPG]
Comparison of the rear tire old / new. Not bad at all for that mileage. Note the arrows (added) showing the edge of the harder, center compound. That concept really works. I was very happy with the way these hold up.
[image: 2095274028_Capture4.thumb.JPG.3b2e69b33cdd9a0525279dd154a8cb2c.JPG]
Baby's got new shoes . . .
While I was at it, I have some Colorite paint in the OEM color for the wheels. The rear was showing some chips from use and the front had a scratch, so I sanded and re-shot and cleared them before installing the new tires. The photos don't show it, but it just freshened things up nicely.
I'd guess I have around $225 total in the tire lever, Marc Parnes balancer, the car wheel ($5), and miscellaneous items like valve stem tool, a selection of weights and other things. That was probably paid for after the 2nd set of tires. These tires were $220 shipped, so that's my total cost going down the road.
[image: 2137839676_Capture5.thumb.JPG.ab574eb2b3ca748ad217c6f3510886fa.JPG]
just to comment on your costco experience...here in NJ, they are fueling 16 cars at a time, the Trucks come 6 times a day to refill tanks. They have the lowest prices in the area
10 hours ago, CogswellAs above, joined the new tire club today. Got Road 2's (love these tires) from a vendor on Amazon. The ones coming off had 7,933 miles on them. They would have gone longer, but a long trip is upcoming and I wanted new rubber. I taught myself to DIY my tire changes, so that makes it go down easier. Plus I don't have to wait for a shop and make multiple trips to drop off / pick up.
Filling up at Costco the day prior. For those of you that have not been to a Costco previously - some have enormous capacity - this one can fill 24 cars at a time - 8 lanes each 3 deep. This was in the a.m. so it was still slow. I asked once when an 18 wheel truck was there filling the underground tanks how many of those they get per week - maybe one every few days? The reply floored me - they told me that they get 3 or 4 delivery trucks every day!
[image: 948709112_Capture1.thumb.JPG.684400963921235fe390c575db6eabbf.JPG]
Installing the front. If you have the right tools, this is not a bad job at all. I've done around 15 sets now for both myself and friends. The block of wood was to keep the tire lever from resting on the rotor. Just after this photo was shot the lever came around the steel bar clockwise to finish it off - it was complete in under a minute. Note the lube on the tire bead - it would be nearly impossible without it. Levering the tire off is just as easy - just use the opposite end of the bar with the removal bit on it. The hardest part for me might be breaking the bead. I have a home-made setup using a 2x4 and some other wood pieces. It works, but it's by no means elegant - but it gets 'er done. Note the car rim underneath - kind of hard to see (there is heater hose around the perimeter so no wheel scratches) to keep the rotor from touching anything. I have not switched to metal stems - probably should - so I change the stems with every set of tires. Just like the tires - they break down with time.
Link to the tire lever - I consider it a good investment - very happy with it. (Looks like the price has gone up since I bought mine).
https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm
[image: 1752907071_Capture3.thumb.JPG.aae785906da1427547d72f95e2aa3e8e.JPG]
Comparison of the rear tire old / new. Not bad at all for that mileage. Note the arrows (added) showing the edge of the harder, center compound. That concept really works. I was very happy with the way these hold up.
[image: 2095274028_Capture4.thumb.JPG.3b2e69b33cdd9a0525279dd154a8cb2c.JPG]
Baby's got new shoes . . .
While I was at it, I have some Colorite paint in the OEM color for the wheels. The rear was showing some chips from use and the front had a scratch, so I sanded and re-shot and cleared them before installing the new tires. The photos don't show it, but it just freshened things up nicely.
I'd guess I have around $225 total in the tire lever, Marc Parnes balancer, the car wheel ($5), and miscellaneous items like valve stem tool, a selection of weights and other things. That was probably paid for after the 2nd set of tires. These tires were $220 shipped, so that's my total cost going down the road.
[image: 2137839676_Capture5.thumb.JPG.ab574eb2b3ca748ad217c6f3510886fa.JPG]
I've seen the price difference between Costco and neighboring stations as high as $.70 per gallon, though here it averages between $.25 and $.50 depending upon how rapidly prices are changing. What I save on gas alone more than pays for the membership. I also like that their pumps are always in good condition and can meter out fuel slowly so I can get it filled to the top without spilling.
IIRC New Jersey is the only other state besides Oregon that does not allow one to pump their own gas. In OR bikes are allowed to IF the attendant hands you the hose. Beyond the pale stupid - yes. COST is good about it though - they just let bikers go about their business and leave you alone. If you're in your car apparently you are suddenly too stupid to do it yourself . . . I didn't realize that our lawmakers are so smart. :unsure:
They leave motorcycles alone in NJ. They would dare want to be responsible for scratching someone’s tank or spilling gas, lol but the credit card thing can be different from stations to station…in and out, swipe, wait until it tells you to remove card…it has caught me off guard when I do pump myself…
The first time I filled up my VFR in Oregon, I was floored tha the attendant wanted to fill my tank. So I said "Go ahead." Before he could start I could tell he did not know what to do. He looked at me with clueless eyes, so I said I'd do it and he was noticeably relieved. And I was noticeably happier! In the store to pay I asked why and was told it was to increase employment. I thought to my self "How much job satisfaction is there in that job." and went on my way shaking my head.
I just got the Michelin Pilot Road 2s mounted, added a rear tire hugger, threw a bunch of stuff on it and am currently in Dalhart, TX getting ready to ride to Grand Junction, CO tomorrow morning. [image: 20210714_113925.thumb.jpg.12a616c6079481a02677783c84f9d545.jpg]The long way.
1 hour ago, SchlepRockI just got the Michelin Pilot Road 2s mounted, added a rear tire hugger, threw a bunch of stuff on it and am currently in Dalhart, TX getting ready to ride to Grand Junction, CO tomorrow morning. [image: 20210714_113925.thumb.jpg.12a616c6079481a02677783c84f9d545.jpg]The long way.
Post up pics along the way if you can.
Bought a 2014 with 10k miles and full luggage. Rode it 107 miles home.
Discovered that the suspension needs some fettling, it seems to notice every bump and feels quite harsh (front and rear). I need to improve that!
Also discovered that it's way lower than I was expecting - need to increase the rear ride height somehow as well.
Need some better pics, excuse the mess, packed up and ready to move house.
[image: 29426b53-6207-4e6f-8731-c2bac7fae451.thumb.jpeg.e79300169762a70e1f565eca8e3f80d8.jpeg]
@Dalemac - the seat is in the low position in the pic
Cheers, will read the manual and get that raised up.
Cleared the garage around it so I could get to it. Then refitted a charged battery. Wheeled it out & it fired up first press of the starter. I topped up the tyre pressures, tested everything still works & booked it in for an MoT on Tuesday morning 👍
What did i do? Bought one! A 2015 in clean-looking pearly white.
Being delivered this evening. Leaving work early haha. :bliss:
Guess i should also read the manual like "Dalemac", or "Thumbs" will notice i haven't a clue about seat heights either, or how to adjust them! haha. We all have to learn; never had an adjustable seat before .... my arse always stays in the same place :laugh:
Anyone want a 2009 (6th gen) in candy red with 12,900 miles?
5 hours ago, BluehawkWhat did i do? Bought one! A 2015 in clean-looking pearly white.
Being delivered this evening. Leaving work early haha. :bliss:
Guess i should also read the manual like "Dalemac", or "Thumbs" will notice i haven't a clue about seat heights either, or how to adjust them! haha. We all have to learn; never had an adjustable seat before .... my arse always stays in the same place :laugh:
Anyone want a 2009 (6th gen) in candy red with 12,900 miles?
Congratulations Bluehawk.
Make sure you get these items.
- Pillion grab handles and blanking plates.
- Rear cowl.
- Rear seat.
- Seat height adjusting collars, if the seat is currently in the lowest position.
- 2 keys.
- Owners manual.
- Check the tool kit, chain adjuster and handle.
Hope you enjoy your new ride, love my 8gen.
Cheers.
5 hours ago, BluehawkWhat did i do? Bought one! A 2015 in clean-looking pearly white.
Being delivered this evening. Leaving work early haha. :bliss:
Guess i should also read the manual like "Dalemac", or "Thumbs" will notice i haven't a clue about seat heights either, or how to adjust them! haha. We all have to learn; never had an adjustable seat before .... my arse always stays in the same place :laugh:
Anyone want a 2009 (6th gen) in candy red with 12,900 miles?
Well done on your new purchase. Make sure you get the stuff Grum listed. Whereabouts on the West Coast are you?
I'm about two years late, but it's been a while since I've been here.
I had my forks reworked by DMR, and love the results. I highly recommend them.
13 hours ago, GrumCongratulations Bluehawk.
Make sure you get these items.
- Pillion grab handles and blanking plates.
- Rear cowl.
- Rear seat.
- Seat height adjusting collars, if the seat is currently in the lowest position.
- 2 keys.
- Owners manual.
- Check the tool kit, chain adjuster and handle.
Hope you enjoy your new ride, love my 8gen.
Cheers.
Why thank ya, kindly, sir! :smile: Have her here now, all nice and tidy. Seems a great buy.
I know how to look for most things, but... "Seat height adjusting collars, if the seat is currently in the lowest position" ....this is interesting!
No, it's not the lowest setting, looks fairly high [up off the bodywork]. Will deffo read the manual about this. I received a box of parts so maybe it's in there? Dunno what these collars look like yet, but i'll find out.
Thanks so much for your knowledgeable input, as always.
13 hours ago, finkWell done on your new purchase. Make sure you get the stuff Grum listed. Whereabouts on the West Coast are you?
Cheers Fink. Toooo bad if i haven't. She arrived earlier with a large box of parts :)
I'm in Glasgow, how about you?? You might be my nearest vfr neighbour? :fing02:
17 minutes ago, BluehawkWhy thank ya, kindly, sir! :smile: Have her here now, all nice and tidy. Seems a great buy.
I know how to look for most things, but... "Seat height adjusting collars, if the seat is currently in the lowest position" ....this is interesting!
No, it's not the lowest setting, looks fairly high [up off the bodywork]. Will deffo read the manual about this. I received a box of parts so maybe it's in there? Dunno what these collars look like yet, but i'll find out.
Thanks so much for your knowledgeable input, as always.
Hi Bluehawk. Good news you have your 8gen.
My bike has the seat in the LOW position so the collars are removed, so if your seat is currently in the HI position they would be installed.
Here's a picture of what they look like.
Enjoy your bike.
[image: 20210807_104938.jpg]
6 minutes ago, GrumHi Bluehawk. Good news you have your 8gen.
My bike has the seat in the LOW position so the collars are removed, so if your seat is currently in the HI position they would be installed.
Here's a picture of what they look like.
Enjoy your bike.
[image: 20210807_104938.jpg]
Thnx. Yeah, i can tell i'm going to enjoy this beastie (not as much as my 'bird' but in a different useable way around the scottish twisties).
Hmmm? Brilliant pic Grum. But these beauties are in the spares box! so maybe its not up in a High position like i thought. I will check over weekend....
2 minutes ago, BluehawkThnx. Yeah, i can tell i'm going to enjoy this beastie (not as much as my 'bird' but in a different useable way around the scottish twisties).
Hmmm? Brilliant pic Grum. But these beauties are in the spares box! so maybe its not up in a High position like i thought. I will check over weekend....
You bet, it won't be in the hi position, and where the seat meets the tank you will be seeing the clear plastic protection strip on the tank.
Funny - I just re-installed the collars. I had removed them for a while, but I'm trying to get as much "knee relief" as possible and I'm more comfortable with the bike at this point. Trying to avoid peg lowering blocks if I can, but not sure this will make enough of a difference.
Note: Is it just me getting older and being feeble, or are those screws that hold the adjustable bracket hard to get out? They seem super tight, and getting the right leverage on them is tough even with extenders and good quality bits.
33 minutes ago, thestumperNote: Is it just me getting older and being feeble, or are those screws that hold the adjustable bracket hard to get out? They seem super tight, and getting the right leverage on them is tough even with extenders and good quality bits.
Surprised to hear you say that. Access to the Adjustment Plate bolts is extremely good, even if they were excessively tight there shouldn't be any issue at all, easy to add an extension to the 6mm Allen key if needed.
[image: 20210811_115215.jpg]
2 minutes ago, GrumSurprised to hear you say that. Access to the Adjustment Plate bolts is extremely good, even if they were excessively tight there shouldn't be any issue at all, easy to add an extension to the 6mm Allen key shouldn't be an issue if needed.
[image: 20210811_115215.jpg]
That's what I did - added an extension (piece of left-over pipe) to break it. Just seemed oddly tight. Access is indeed good but I don't have a key like that - I had to use a hex bit and a socket wrench, which was really tight. Did that come in the tool kit, per chance? Might be good to pick one up on the cheap...
13 minutes ago, thestumperThat's what I did - added an extension (piece of left-over pipe) to break it. Just seemed oddly tight. Access is indeed good but I don't have a key like that - I had to use a hex bit and a socket wrench, which was really tight. Did that come in the tool kit, per chance? Might be good to pick one up on the cheap...
Just a standard good quality set of Allen keys!
No not in the kit. It only has a small length 5mm key in the toolkit.
No need to torque these bolts, or have Hercules tighten them, just nice and firm by hand will be more than adequate. YMMV.
Bluehawk, 8/7/2021 at 1:36 AMCheers Fink. Toooo bad if i haven't. She arrived earlier with a large box of parts 🙂
I'm in Glasgow, how about you?? You might be my nearest vfr neighbour? :fing02:
I'm a bit closer to the West coast, out on the Ardnamurchan peninsula nr Fort William. There was one other but he has sold his now. Enjoy your new steed.🏍️
I added a stylized Honda wing in black reflective vinyl.
In addition to the huge reflector panels I applied to my side cases, the machine sure lights up at night.
I can make these things in any colour, if you're interested.
[image: CA07EAC8-B0B4-4B7A-9019-84E948636F6E.thumb.png.866864b9f2e411cd8360b2d4a64f6ea2.png]I did a similar thing to my panniers, love the gold coloured Honda Wing decal.
16 minutes ago, Philois1984I did a similar thing to my panniers, love the gold coloured Honda Wing decal.
I was going to add DOT reflective tape to my old 6th gen's OEM hard bags years ago, but never got around to it. I still have the tape in my tool chest. 😕
Grum, 8/7/2021 at 1:48 AMHi Bluehawk. Good news you have your 8gen.
My bike has the seat in the LOW position so the collars are removed, so if your seat is currently in the HI position they would be installed.
Here's a picture of what they look like.
Enjoy your bike.
[image: 20210807_104938.jpg]
interestingly it's in the high position not low as expected! i shall check and see why the (silver in case) bobbins/spacers are out?? Hmm..
14 hours ago, finkI'm a bit closer to the West coast, out on the Ardnamurchan peninsula nr Fort William. There was one other but he has sold his now. Enjoy your new steed.🏍️
My friend visited the 'most westerly point' couple of years ago...always banging on about some walk or other. I can't remember what the place was called. He's mentioned Ard. Must be great to live there. True, you are more west. I'm only 4.251W [long] but you're way out there on 6.000W...more wet, more windy, and far more twisties!! :tour: Superb for the vfr. Thanks, i will certainly enjoy.
23 hours ago, thestumperNote: Is it just me getting older and being feeble, or are those screws that hold the adjustable bracket hard to get out? They seem super tight, and getting the right leverage on them is tough even with extenders and good quality bits.
cant see why you should be having bother? There is plenty of access with the seat gone. and as mentioned, a good allen key, or any allen will do it. I have just acquired one and for the first time tried the bolts. easy-peasy...(sorry).
Maybe your previous owner was a grease gorilla, rather than a grease monkey. lol.
Did something today?? Yes.
Checked chain slack on both 6th gen and 8th gen....neither needed adjusting, which i'm pleased with. The single ELF designed arm makes this look soooo simple to adjust. Not had the 'pleasure' of using it yet, but one day, something to look forward to soon!
Buuuut, tell me please, why does the manual for the 6th gen say 'on the main/centre stand' and the manual for the 8th gen says 'on the side stand'?? For years i've always checked and adjusted chain on the main stand, never a side stand!?
Any comments plse?
1 hour ago, BluehawkBuuuut, tell me please, why does the manual for the 6th gen say 'on the main/centre stand' and the manual for the 8th gen says 'on the side stand'?? For years i've always checked and adjusted chain on the main stand, never a side stand!?
Any comments plse?
Ah good point. So you have been studying your Owners Manual.
I'm sure the reasoning is that in the USA, the 8gen comes in the two versions Standard and Deluxe. The standard base model does not have the centre stand. Think by having the manual state Sidestand covers both situations. All 6gen versions had both side and center stands....as far as I'm aware.
My chain slack really doesn't vary between Sidestand and Center Stand measurements. So I have always checked and adjusted it just like the 6gen, being on the center stand, with no issues whatsoever. So, just use the same method as per your 6gen.
You might also notice in the Owners Manual, Specifications Section that it states Idle Speed is "non adjustable" ! Wrong, it has the same idle speed adjustment as the 6gen, its just on the opposite side, just above and forward of the clutch slave cylinder.
11 hours ago, Bluehawkcant see why you should be having bother? There is plenty of access with the seat gone. and as mentioned, a good allen key, or any allen will do it. I have just acquired one and for the first time tried the bolts. easy-peasy...(sorry).
Maybe your previous owner was a grease gorilla, rather than a grease monkey. lol.
There is anecdotal evidence to suggest he/she was a large person..... 🙂
As is the key in all thing mechanical, it's usually down to having the right tools. Sometimes I sucks at that....
12 hours ago, thestumperThere is anecdotal evidence to suggest he/she was a large person..... 🙂
As is the key in all thing mechanical, it's usually down to having the right tools. Sometimes I sucks at that....
Just out of interest, i happened to be reading the manual on my new gen 8...[yeah i know, actually reading a real manual!]... and it said these bolts are torqued to a set level (don't have it with me so cant recall the setting), so it's not just had tightened, hence your struggle to release. Sooo, don't feel bad about the tools or inability. And don't blame the overweights either. Seems they are 'meant to be' tough to release. Mine even has white paint [dots] in perfect symmetrical places to show if they've moved. Oooeee! 😉
23 hours ago, GrumAh good point. So you have been studying your Owners Manual.
My chain slack really doesn't vary between Sidestand and Center Stand measurements. So I have always checked and adjusted it just like the 6gen, being on the center stand, with no issues whatsoever. So, just use the same method as per your 6gen.
You might also notice in the Owners Manual, Specifications Section that it states Idle Speed is "non adjustable" ! Wrong, it has the same idle speed adjustment as the 6gen, its just on the opposite side, just above and forward of the clutch slave cylinder.
Yes, working my way thru it... 'moi intresande', as they say in spain [i think means 'most interesting'], but don't quote me!
Anyroads, I checked with side stand and main stand and found a 4mm difference on the 6g, tighter on the side, more loose on the main. Not enough to do anything about.
Thnx for the idle info, duly noted in the manual now.
Just rode it some more, 51,500 and counting...
Put Tank Slapper film on the tank for some paint protection. A complete PITA. I've applied them before and never had any issue, but I'm not convinced the cut outs were specific to the 2014 model year. In the past, I just used a credit card and my fingers for smoothing - this time after a couple of failed attempts I had to break down and get one of those detailer squeegees. It worked for the back part of the tank, but doesn't look as glass-smooth as previous installations.
I don't know if I will even attempt the side tank panels - they don't seem to line up with anything without going under trim pieces or overlapping the rear tank piece. The rear is the important one - at I least that's on and hopefully it sticks.
Put the "spud" (DbKiller) back into my Delkevic exhaust. As much as I liked the sound, it was just too loud. It still sounds good, but it's lost that "punch you in the gut" immediacy it had. Definitely better than stock, but not as compelling as the full-on brutality of an uncorked system.
At least now I don't have to roll down hill with the clutch full in to avoid too much attention at 7:00 AM.
36 minutes ago, thestumperPut the "spud" (DbKiller) back into my Delkevic exhaust. As much as I liked the sound, it was just too loud. It still sounds good, but it's lost that "punch you in the gut" immediacy it had. Definitely better than stock, but not as compelling as the full-on brutality of an uncorked system.
At least now I don't have to roll down hill with the clutch full in to avoid too much attention at 7:00 AM.
I have a db killer in the SC-Project exhaust on my BMW. It sounds good as-is, but I'm tempted to pull it out to hear how much louder it is without the baffle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts, but I am curious so I'll probably give it a try soon.
19 hours ago, TimCI have a db killer in the SC-Project exhaust on my BMW. It sounds good as-is, but I'm tempted to pull it out to hear how much louder it is without the baffle. I'm not a fan of loud exhausts, but I am curious so I'll probably give it a try soon.
I installed my Delkevic with the baffle removed, so I didn't appreciate the difference until I popped it back in. Without it, It sounded great at first, but on a long ride the drone would start to get annoying. I was surprised at how much difference the 'spud' made when on the bike. I still sounds good off the bike, but appears much less fatiguing on the bike with the helmet on at speed. Need to go on a longer ride to really get a good sense of it.
Bluehawk, 8/12/2021 at 2:31 AMDid something today?? Yes.
Checked chain slack on both 6th gen and 8th gen....neither needed adjusting, which i'm pleased with. The single ELF designed arm makes this look soooo simple to adjust. Not had the 'pleasure' of using it yet, but one day, something to look forward to soon!
Buuuut, tell me please, why does the manual for the 6th gen say 'on the main/centre stand' and the manual for the 8th gen says 'on the side stand'?? For years i've always checked and adjusted chain on the main stand, never a side stand!?
Any comments plse?
Becaust the good ole USA got a model without a centrestand, and no doubt Honda would have to deal with a resulting liabile case. Thats the only reason I can think of.
Philois1984, 8/11/2021 at 8:26 AM[image: CA07EAC8-B0B4-4B7A-9019-84E948636F6E.thumb.png.866864b9f2e411cd8360b2d4a64f6ea2.png]I did a similar thing to my panniers, love the gold coloured Honda Wing decal.
Thanks! It's actually black reflective vinyl. It looks gold in that photo likely because of the camer flash off the bricks. It's white when vehicle headlights hit it.
TimC, 8/11/2021 at 8:44 AMI was going to add DOT reflective tape to my old 6th gen's OEM hard bags years ago, but never got around to it. I still have the tape in my tool chest. 😕
I made the reflectors you see in my photo. I sell them if you're interested. I can do them in black or white reflective film.
fink, 8/27/2021 at 12:44 PMBecaust the good ole USA got a model without a centrestand, and no doubt Honda would have to deal with a resulting liabile case. Thats the only reason I can think of.
valid point fink, hence different manuals globally, saying different things. I'll stick with my centre! cheers
How about a thread titled "what someone did to your VFR last night."?
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Edited September 11, 2021 by SchlepRockadditional content
Bastards.
Been there, done that between Brooklyn, NY Queens NY, and Newark NJ I had to replace 3 ignition locks to the infamous dent puller. It seems at least Honda's design lets you slip a screwdriver into the hole that's left, and engage the switch to unlock the forks and start the bike. Only saved all 3 times by having the bike locked up to a light pole with Cobra Links, which I don't think they make anymore.
Being tired of mistakenly hitting the horn rather than the turn signals due to the reversed switch placement, I clocked the control position up about 20-30 degrees, putting the signal switch in the prominent position, still having access to the passing switch, horn.
I'm sure the positioning is no big deal, but switching between this and 2 other bikes with normal switch positions leads to a lot of errant horn beeps.
5 hours ago, chuttaBeing tired of mistakenly hitting the horn rather than the turn signals due to the reversed switch placement, I clocked the control position up about 20-30 degrees, putting the signal switch in the prominent position, still having access to the passing switch, horn.
I'm sure the positioning is no big deal, but switching between this and 2 other bikes with normal switch positions leads to a lot of errant horn beeps.
I'm definitely not a fan of the new horn/turn signal layout!
9 hours ago, SamuelxI'm definitely not a fan of the new horn/turn signal layout!
It's just a question of getting used to it. I'd hate it if I had to go back to the old layout.
Definitely harder if you you own 1 or more bikes of each design.
I must come across one of the politest bikers around, because every time someone cuts me up, all I do to express my annoyance is cancel my indicator.
Serviced the front and rear brakes today, good by original brake fluid, hello fresh stuff.
Also washed and waxed it. And mounted the givi v47 box and loaded it up with my cool weather gear. Need to find some reflective decals to put on that givi box now...
Took the VFR out this afternoon just to listen to the music!
Washed my 750 and took it for an evening ride just to load it up with bugs again.
Love to listen to the engine whine but with ear plugs sounds a little muted. Will need to look for the perfect plugs.
Ran out of gas and found out that I can get 218 miles on one full tank and that the tank has a capacity of 5.565 gallon (pretty accurate to the manual). The reserve lamp never came on! Now, I know!
6 hours ago, WaldRan out of gas and found out that I can get 218 miles on one full tank and that the tank has a capacity of 5.565 gallon (pretty accurate to the manual). The reserve lamp never came on! Now, I know!
This engine can be very economical when you are careful.
On the other hand.... :wheel:
Wald, 9/30/2021 at 5:07 AMRan out of gas and found out that I can get 218 miles on one full tank and that the tank has a capacity of 5.565 gallon (pretty accurate to the manual). The reserve lamp never came on! Now, I know!
That is a very useful bit of information which should reduce the chance of it happening.
Did you meet any nice people providing help?
When that has happened to me, more than I'd like to admit (blush), I did meet some very nice peeps while twiddling my thumps while looking forlorn, or pushing my machine toward a refueling station.
MaxSwell, 10/1/2021 at 3:36 PMThat is a very useful bit of information which should reduce the chance of it happening.
Did you meet any nice people providing help?
Yes, a couple stopped and offered help. Since I was only 2 miles away from home and they were towing a boat, I did not want to put the through the procedure of getting a canister and fuel while hauling a boat. I called a friend who happened to be almost driving by my house (lucky me)! He grabbed the canister with my lawn mower gas from the shed and I was up and running 15 minutes later.
Since I had full leathers on. walking home to get fuel was not a great alternative.
Thanks for asking MaxSwell.
PS: The last time I ran out of fuel before this, was 25 years ago (prior to cell phones) in the middle of nowhere, but this a whole another story involving a helpful farmer.
Well then, Sunday morning I made a short run up to Madrid, NM to practice on a short set of twisties just north of town. It's not so much learning how the bike handles, as remembering how it feels just like the '99 VFR800 I had back then. As I rolled into the driveway upon return, the odometer clicked over to 800 miles.
Yes, she is another "left behind" VFR 800. Bought new in 2019 by a young chap who put a whopping 353 miles on the bike, then parked it. 😒 I picked it up in July of this summer, went over the bike carefully and corrected a few small things, and replaced the broken right mirror stalk. I've been gradually increasing the lean angles on those 2015 tires, now out to the edges and gained my trust in them.
Changed shock. About time too, 317K km! Bottom needle bearing good but bumper totally shot, can only imagine what it’s like inside..dr
28 minutes ago, airwalkChanged shock. About time too, 317K km! Bottom needle bearing good but bumper totally shot, can only imagine what it’s like inside..dr
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317000 km?
Surprised it actually still moved.
Yes, shows how procrastination can pay off in a way, also that luck isn’t always the bad kind. May not be a favourable comment on my maintenance practice though!
I suppose that if your demands on suspension are as solid as the newspaper underneath, one could simply continue using that shock :laugh:
Wald, 10/4/2021 at 1:45 PMYes, a couple stopped and offered help. Since I was only 2 miles away from home and they were towing a boat, I did not want to put the through the procedure of getting a canister and fuel while hauling a boat. I called a friend who happened to be almost driving by my house (lucky me)! He grabbed the canister with my lawn mower gas from the shed and I was up and running 15 minutes later.
Since I had full leathers on. walking home to get fuel was not a great alternative.
Thanks for asking MaxSwell.
PS: The last time I ran out of fuel before this, was 25 years ago (prior to cell phones) in the middle of nowhere, but this a whole another story involving a helpful farmer.
I also have a useful-farmer-to-the-rescue story: (I cannot remember exactly where it happened but it was on the way home from a Sum-Sum gathering in CO.)
It was late in the day and there was a camping sign on the highway directing my up a certain road (no distance information given). So I head that way and ran out of gas before I got to the campground. A family heading home came up behind me and asked if I needed help.
This was in the middle of nowhere in the dark. I explained I was just out of gas. So mom gets out of the van and says she’ll push me to their farm just up the road (on her feet, not with her vehicle). I reluctantly agreed (she explained she was a high-mile runner and it would be no problem for her). By the time we got to there place it was late; I pitched my tent in their yard and everyone went to bed. When I got up they invited me in and fed me a nice breakfast, filled my tank from their on-site tank (5.55 gallons) and would not take any money for the help. I thanked them profusely and heading on my way.
Talk about a Good Samaritan!
Since bringing my new to me 2014 VFR800f home, It was dead stock with only 3,100 miles on it except for the frame sliders and the Werks exhaust. I was afraid the exhaust might be too loud but it is not at all. I added the following:
Honda OEM tire hugger
Progrip 719 RVGS Gel Grips
Techmount cell phone mount
Motopumps 1.25" bar riser blocks
BLS foot peg lowering blocks
and last but not least a Honda OEM quick shifter.
First time I've had a bike with a quick shifter, this thing is better than sliced bread. I will never have a motorcycle without one again. I was a little reticent because of the price but it's well worth the money.
I also really like the Techmount cell phone holder, most people seem to use the RAM mounts but I just didn't like they way they look. The Techmount is to me a more simple cleaner design.
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Which model tech grip did you get? can’t see a VFR on there website. Is it the same as the CBR1000RR-R (RRRRRR)
Love the Werks exhaust.
3 hours ago, Philois1984Which model tech grip did you get? can’t see a VFR on there website. Is it the same as the CBR1000RR-R (RRRRRR)
Love the Werks exhaust.
I used this TECHMOUNT STEERING STEM MOUNT KIT - UNIVERSAL 5-10105. It comes with a bunch of sleeves and one of them will fit in the VFR's center tube, it doesn't fit quite tight enough though so I wrapped one or two wraps of electrical tape around it and then it snugged right up.
This pic is from yesterday. Today I took the givi windscreen off, and put the stock one back on.
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Perfect Fall weather here in NM, went for a "get out in the middle of nowhere" ride this afternoon. This is what 'nowhere" looks like down here. Hwy 117 south of Grants, NM. Next to nothing for traffic, fun sweeping curves, and a VFR!
I got a ping from a recruiter about a NM job, am wondering if the entire state is that sparse? I am happy to ride the VFR at optimum speed, but would also like a special companion. It looks super fun out there!
RRluv2RIDE, there are lots of things about NM that will remind you that you're in a desert. Having grown up on a farm in Kansas, the first time I visited NM, I thought, Huh, all these people can grow is rocks! Civilization always centers on the river. The mighty Rio Grande, which doesn't even amount to a crick in Kansas. Albuquerque (where I live) is a little more than 500,000 population, and has most of the conveniences. Santa Fe is 84K. Las Cruces is 104K.
The attraction to NM is the dry, mild climate, mountains, an average of 300+ days of sunshine, and great twisty roads everywhere!
I just got the Viking saddlebags and fitted them to the VFR. These are the Mini Expandable Black Street/Sportbike bags.
Two wide velcro straps to lay across the pillion pad and straps to anchor them. Photo is from a test ride with them. The bags didn't flop around, carried the weight well, and to my notion, look just fine on the bike.
Viking Mini Expandable Black Street/Sportbike Saddlebags - Viking Bags
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Edited November 9, 2021 by 3rdbikechanged tense of word
I finally got around to mounting the Givi rack on the yellow bike. I also swapped the E45 for an E36 so that I can move a smaller (less ugly) case back and forth.
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Just replaced a set of Bridgestone BT023 tyres with only 2k miles on them with Michelin Road 5s. The difference in handling and bump absorption is like night and day. Ok, I've not fully scrubbed the new hoops in yet but my earlier deliberations about fitting a 3-way adjustable aftermarket shock and sorting out the fork springs and valving are now on hold as the Michelin's have done the job. I admit to being a fan of Michelin's, having used them on other bikes, but I hadn't expected the difference in 'feel' to be so pronounced.
Plexus last night and put it on the road yesterday. Looking forward to a spin. Ordering can next week when it goes on sale.
2 hours ago, PressonJust replaced a set of Bridgestone BT023 tyres
In all fairness, those were some of the worst tires i've ever ridden on. My friend and I tried a set each a few years back and it was terrifying. We tore them off very early and went back to our much beloved Dunlops Roadsmarts. Tons of grip wet or dry, solo or two up, cruising and knees down. I'm amazed every time I ride on current date ST tires.
8 hours ago, bmartIn all fairness, those were some of the worst tires i've ever ridden oIn all fairness, those were some of the worst tires i've ever ridden on. My friend and I tried a set each a few years back and it was terrifyingterrifying
I know some people who swear by the BT023. The ones on my bike came new for a used machine from somewhere called 'Aberdeen' which appeared to be a salty place. I digress, the Bridgestone solution was not for me; squiggly on white lines and easy sliding in corners under throttle and surprisingly quick to flatten off making them very sensitive to surface imperfections. The bigger problem was very stiff sidewalls which seemed to amplify the rather basic suspension Honda chose for our RC79 VFRs.
Done 150 miles on the new tyres now and happy to recommend Michelin Road 5 for sport touring, scratching etc
Seconded...my Road 5's are amazing!
18 hours ago, PressonThe ones on my bike came new for a used machine from somewhere called 'Aberdeen' which appeared to be a salty place.
This place could be Aberdeen in Washington State, It is right on the pacific coastline (salty) and the place I think Kurt Cobain grew up in.
17 hours ago, ShipFixerSeconded...my Road 5's are amazing!
BT023's were great on my ST1100, but I moved to 31's on my ST1300 and they were awesome. Currently running PR5's on my MT-10 and they are great, this is after 6000km of enthusiastic corners, wear is very even across the profile and they still feel good.
I tipped it over in the garage today while driving onto the dolly... rear tire must have not been lined up good enuf and I caught the edge and over we went. Threw a leg out, but that pig had other ideas...
In related news, looking for 8th gen left side body work in red
3 hours ago, VFR4MeI tipped it over in the garage today while driving onto the dolly... rear tire must have not been lined up good enuf and I caught the edge and over we went. Threw a leg out, but that pig had other ideas...
In related news, looking for 8th gen left side body work in red
Don't feel too bad. It happens to everyone sooner or later. I did it in August while backing out of the garage.
VFR4Me, 12/4/2021 at 7:56 AMI tipped it over in the garage today while driving onto the dolly... rear tire must have not been lined up good enuf and I caught the edge and over we went. Threw a leg out, but that pig had other ideas...
In related news, looking for 8th gen left side body work in red
The same thing happened to me earlier this year. Wearing a tennis shoe instead of my usual boots, the sidestand did not get deployed in time. Broke to bones in my foot under the cowl. Sucks the hind-tit bog water big time. (blush)
Installed a license plate bracket and light on my 90. Original owner cut the mud guard off for looks I guess. Must not have ridden in the rain, mud, snow or dark....................... All of which we have in abundance here in Maine.
Came with a brake/riding light and turn signals. Easy enough to wire them into the loom, so I kept them.
Stripped my 2014 Gen 8 Bare and removed cam covers to check valve clearances. No service history when I purchased 2 years ago come Feb 1st. Made up some vtec slide pin stoppers from a 6mm drill bit. Only done the rear pair of cylinders so far but all 8 valves are out of spec. Beginning to think this is the first time they were checked. 61kms on the clock. More to come.
Purchased yet another 1990 Vfr a couple years ago (it was in the back of an automotive shop) I finally got it shipped here before Christmas this year, and am going through it. The brakes, front and rear were drained, clutch drained, fuel drained, antifreeze drained, oil drained. Bled everything with new fluids, went to start it and i lol, the floats are stuck, fuel everywhere.🤦🏻♂️ Back at it tomorrow😇
59 minutes ago, REDWINGStripped my 2014 Gen 8 Bare and removed cam covers to check valve clearances. No service history when I purchased 2 years ago come Feb 1st. Made up some vtec slide pin stoppers from a 6mm drill bit. Only done the rear pair of cylinders so far but all 8 valves are out of spec. Beginning to think this is the first time they were checked. 61kms on the clock. More to come.
I checked my original 1990 vfr valves @ 15k. I never went back in. Now at 242,000 miles, I’m thinkin about checking them again
9 hours ago, 3rdgenredI checked my original 1990 vfr valves @ 15k. I never went back in. Now at 242,000 miles, I’m thinkin about checking them again
Have a few beers and you will quit thinking about them. 😉
11 hours ago, REDWINGall 8 valves are out of spec
Curious by how much...
10 hours ago, 3rdgenredI checked my original 1990 vfr valves @ 15k. I never went back in. Now at 242,000 miles, I’m thinkin about checking them again
I heard that they go nearly forever. I've never checked any of mine on any of the 3 VFRs.
1 hour ago, bmartI heard that they go nearly forever. I've never checked any of mine on any of the 3 VFRs.
VFR's afik, are all shim-under-bucket. Being a little loose is better than tight, but more noisy. As valves slam into seats year after year, they seat deeper and the clearance gets tighter. The lash could eventually get tight enough that it prevents the valve from sealing and you end up with a burned valve. I don't think I've ever seen a VFR engine that burned a valve. We have Baileyrock's zillion mile engine and now 3rdgenred's that haven't been checked and are probably tight, but they keep going and going and going.
2 hours ago, bmartI heard that they go nearly forever. I've never checked any of mine on any of the 3 VFRs.
My '98 needed 3 exhaust shims changing every 16k up to 130,000 miles.
Pretty interesting how engine design, oil used, etc. all has such an impact.
I bought a CB-1 in 2020 with just under 12k miles on it. It has 16k intervals but I checked it anyway. 12 out of 16 were out of spec. My prior CB-1 wasn't out of spec until 32k, when only 7 were out of spec. (Shim under bucket.)
My FJs would run about 1/2 out of spec at each 16k, mostly exhaust.
The cars (screw type adjusters) get checked every 105k adn seem to be 6-8 out of spec out of 16 valves.
I ride so little to what I used to do that I think I'll leave the VFR ones alone! No funny noises, smoke, or loss in power.
Checked the oil level...
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Here in Oz we rate jobs by how many six packs (beer) you need to complete the task, looks like in the Netherlands they use the sausage roll rating 😂
2 hours ago, SkidsMy '98 needed 3 exhaust shims changing every 16k up to 130,000 miles.
I wonder if it had some out of spec (soft) valve seats. Weird that it stopped at 130k miles.
5 hours ago, tbzepVFR's afik, are all shim-under-bucket. Being a little loose is better than tight, but more noisy. As valves slam into seats year after year, they seat deeper and the clearance gets tighter. The lash could eventually get tight enough that it prevents the valve from sealing and you end up with a burned valve. I don't think I've ever seen a VFR engine that burned a valve. We have Baileyrock's zillion mile engine and now 3rdgenred's that haven't been checked and are probably tight, but they keep going and going and going.
Without pulling an engine, or doing an in-depth leakdown test, there's no way to know if a valve is burnt. A burnt valve will still work, just horsepower will be down a bit due to compression being lower. It's not going to self-destruct, so no telling how many high mileage engines have burned valves. The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.
16 minutes ago, FJ12RyderThe loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.
This sounds like my skills. lol
Done front and rear bank measurements now. All 8 VTEC clearances are tight and out of spec and 6 of 8 standard valves are out of spec, it an absolute prick of a job, fiddly, time consuming and now I think, expensive!!! No wonder it cost so much at a dealership and understandable why it’s often neglected. More to come.
6 hours ago, tbzepVFR's afik, are all shim-under-bucket. Being a little loose is better than tight, but more noisy. As valves slam into seats year after year, they seat deeper and the clearance gets tighter. The lash could eventually get tight enough that it prevents the valve from sealing and you end up with a burned valve. I don't think I've ever seen a VFR engine that burned a valve. We have Baileyrock's zillion mile engine and now 3rdgenred's that haven't been checked and are probably tight, but they keep going and going and going.
I actually have spares, new valve seals & valves, rings, carb rebuild kits engine gaskets… everything to do the work. It’s coming. I just haven’t committed the time. Lol
1 hour ago, REDWINGDone front and rear bank measurements now. All 8 VTEC clearances are tight and out of spec and 6 of 8 standard valves are out of spec,
That's really strange to hear every VTEC valve being tight, never heard of that before, (along with 6 out of 8 main valves) especially when you consider the VTEC valves are hardly used in comparison to the main valves!
61,000k's is not a lot of mileage! I seriously wonder what oil was used, what the service intervals were and how it was ridden or abused by the previous owner?
Better not mention how many k's my 2014 8gen has done without a valve check!!!! :unsure:
Good luck with it, the 8gen is an incredibly reliable bike! :fing02:
...and the temp they were checked at. It makes a difference.
Hey Grum. I can provide the 2nd example of that phenomenon. At 30,000 miles (50,000 or so km's), I checked mine and found all 8 VTEC and 3 standard valves to be way tight. At first I thought that couldn't be right for all the reasons normally mentioned, including only part time VTEC operation. I thought that I had to be wrong, that I'd made a mistake. So, I made no adjustments and put the entire thing back together. It ran fine, pulled and sounded as before. No issues. When the weather really turned bad and it wouldn't be ridden for some months, I dug in to it again (I was now faster as I was better at it). Same result. So, figuring somehow I was missing something or was measuring incorrectly, I got a friend, a 30 year A&P mechanic who's owned numerous Honda M/C's and wrenched on them personally, to come over and check them. I purposely kept quiet my findings and just told him that I was struggling with the check and if he would have a look. I didn't influence him in any way to be looking for what I thought was happening. I had cams in and pins out of the VTEC buckets so he'd have to do everything except strip the bike down. I left him with tools, pin latches, the procedure and explanatory working of the VTEC latches. I then left him for a several hours with some pizza and cold snacks. :wink: When I came back he had finished measuring, but the cams were still in and he hadn't removed the latch pins. I asked him "so, what did you find?" As he handed me the paper with his measurements he replied "your 8 VTEC buckets are tight and you have 3 of the others that are tight." Looking at his measurements, they weren't quite identical to mine, but they were very close and the other 3 he measured as tight were the same ones I had.
I still do not know what could have caused that and it still seems counter intuitive. It's a very expensive fix as the VTEC buckets are over $250, significantly more if purchased at list price. The bike's back together and running, though I've had a hard time reconciling how owners have run them over 100,000 without adjusting the valve with no issues. I can't speak to anyone else's bike - that was just my experience with it.
Thanks Cogs. That's a great story and fantastic having the mechanic backup your findings, it also reinforces you were most certainly doing things right, and I would never doubt your experience and expertise.
I stand corrected, yours is now the second bike I've heard of where all vtec valves were tight!
Cheers :fing02:
11 hours ago, tbzepI wonder if it had some out of spec (soft) valve seats. Weird that it stopped at 130k miles.
Cos I sold the bike.
13 hours ago, Philois1984Here in Oz we rate jobs by how many six packs (beer) you need to complete the task, looks like in the Netherlands they use the sausage roll rating 😂
Oil checking is measured in cheese rolls....... 🙂
Cycling on saturday morning between 6-8AM is measured in sausage rolls...
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T'was kinda kinda foggy this morning.. :tongue:
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4 hours ago, GrumThanks Cogs. That's a great story and fantastic having the mechanic backup your findings, it also reinforces you were most certainly doing things right, and I would never doubt your experience and expertise.
I stand corrected, yours is now the second bike I've heard of where all vtec valves were tight!
I’ve had mine checked twice and no adjustment has been required. I wonder if the bikes with tight valve clearances were put together like that.
When i do open heart surgery on Shaniqua(big ghetto booty)i will post pics(that'll be a biggie) I've done everything but adjust the valves to her to keep her going over the years.
Put my CGR ‘07 on a tender, no riding or driving for 8 weeks.
5 hours ago, LEGENDPut my CGR ‘07 on a tender, no riding or driving for 8 weeks.
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Whoht happened?
All of my bikes are on tenders since nov 6(michigan) 😞
14 hours ago, 3rdgenredWhoht happened?
Riving ban????
Did you get caught doing 130MPH "on a dark desert highway"???
9 minutes ago, DutchyRiving ban????
Did you get caught doing 130MPH "on a dark desert highway"???
Caught = too slow 😇
Rolled my VFR out into fresh snow for an obligatory photo op !
I'm also in CLT. Took a walk around the icy neighborhood this morning. Looks like we're 10+ days out from any riding!
VFR78, 1/15/2022 at 1:01 AMI’ve had mine checked twice and no adjustment has been required. I wonder if the bikes with tight valve clearances were put together like that.
That might be the only logical conclusion. It sure seems unlikely to have happened on its own.
Dutchy, 1/16/2022 at 10:30 AMRiving ban????
Did you get caught doing 130MPH "on a dark desert highway"???
130 is merging speed to get on the freeway in the city of Los Angeles. No I was supposed to have surgery a year ago but was put off due to Covid, busy at work etc. Started having some epic pain and finally got an mri which showed a lesion, basically a spot on my talus (ankle bone) was worn out into the marrow….I have flat feet and deformed ankles long story short as a nurse I’m finally sitting my butt down for the next few months and get to watch the pandemic on CNN. Had to pick up a few screws to realign the ankle and a whole host of things thus the no weight bearing for a few months……
REDWING, 1/14/2022 at 11:32 AMStripped my 2014 Gen 8 Bare and removed cam covers to check valve clearances. No service history when I purchased 2 years ago come Feb 1st. Made up some vtec slide pin stoppers from a 6mm drill bit. Only done the rear pair of cylinders so far but all 8 valves are out of spec. Beginning to think this is the first time they were checked. 61kms on the clock. More to come.
So, still waiting for 3 vtec valve buckets ex Japan so the bike is still in bits on the lift, I’ve been wanting a top box carrier for a while as I’m using the bike to commute during the summer months and the ones in all the usual places (fleabay) et al are all to expensive, so I welded up my own design in the garage from scrap I had loafing around. When the bikes reassembled and dressed in red I’ll post up some pics of the box too.[image: image.thumb.jpg.2913959b50c80a5feb7ca88ef0e5aac8.jpg]
9 hours ago, REDWINGSo, still waiting for 3 vtec valve buckets ex Japan so the bike is still in bits on the lift, I’ve been wanting a top box carrier for a while as I’m using the bike to commute during the summer months and the ones in all the usual places (fleabay) et al are all to expensive, so I welded up my own design in the garage from scrap I had loafing around. When the bikes reassembled and dressed in red I’ll post up some pics of the box too.[image: image.thumb.jpg.2913959b50c80a5feb7ca88ef0e5aac8.jpg]
Great skills and looks great but beware, I bought a carrier similar in design to that and it snapped. I was cornering at something approaching a very high speed and it spilled the contents of my top box, and my top box, all over the road.
There's a reason many use tubing for strength. 😉
20 minutes ago, bmartThere's a reason many use tubing for strength. 😉
This had tubing. Clean break on both arms.
I guess I put too much weight in the top box.
I had a full givi tubular setup on by Blackbird, water got into the tubes and it rusted from the inside out. Welded and powder coated 6mm steel is far superior in my opinion.
Fitted a nice Ti Rear brake lever clevis with Ti pin an nut. Saved 20grams & goes well with my PSR M/C Reservoir 👍
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Mohawk, 1/29/2022 at 4:31 AMFitted a nice Ti Rear brake lever clevis with Ti pin an nut. Saved 20grams & goes well with my PSR M/C Reservoir 👍
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Nothing but the best for your VFR!
I had my wheels removed from '14 VFR and powder coated them pearl white to match my VFR.
They look stunning off the bike.
Awaiting my newly Powder coated wheels is a brand new set of Michelin Road 5s.
The set I had on I sold for $200 Canadian. 50% tread left. Not bad.
Will post pics once mounted on the bike.
Fitted my TomTom satnav to the bike yesterday. Fortunately, there was already a power feed installed so just had to change the connector. Win!
Just need to fit the rad guard when it arrives.
Hopefully will get some decent time out on the thing after only doing 4K miles since 2018 on my previous bike, a ZZR1400
A sunny weekend got me motivated to pull the cover off the VFR and dust it off. Checked the air filter - getting dirty enough to replace but not crammed full of rodent refuse, thank goodness. As an aside, the Honda engineer who designed the 6th gen's fuel tank could spent a little more time and made it tip back far enough to get in and change the air filter without fear of amputation.
Installed the *new* battery I got in Delta, Colorado back in 2015. It’s the one I use riding around near home. For long trips I install the oe Yuasa because it seems to better hold a charge. Lots more deferred mtce to come in preparation for riding season: chain, tires, repaint wheels, etc. Time will tell just much work this A1 procrastinator completes 😉
Nice . . . I'd give that photo two likes if I could!
Cogswell, 3/7/2022 at 7:11 AMNice . . . I'd give that photo two likes if I could!
+1
Finally after 7 years 😳 I did the flapper and snorkel mod. Can’t even tell you why, just something to try. Can always change it back. Heading out for a ride in the morning to see how it sounds/feels. I believe it only sounds different, no real change to performance.
11 hours ago, Philois1984Finally after 7 years 😳 I did the flapper and snorkel mod. Can’t even tell you why, just something to try. Can always change it back. Heading out for a ride in the morning to see how it sounds/feels. I believe it only sounds different, no real change to performance.
Hi Phil.
Be interested in knowing how it goes.
5 years ago I only removed all the Flapper hardware to free up some under tank space and Only because Honda had removed this system from later 8gens. I've noticed absolutely no degradation in performance or fuel economy after some 40,000k since removal.
As for the Snorkel mod, I tried this on my 6gen, a waste of time, just makes air intake louder.
After 200km this morning I agree, I couldn’t feel any difference at all (wasn’t expecting to though) while the intake/engine noise is louder it isn’t annoying, just sounds a bit deeper. I will leave the snorkel off for now and see how I feel about it in a few weeks time. It was considerably cooler on the ride this morning (the weather not the bike) a very welcome change after the last few weeks.
Good news is that the job share I applied for 16 months ago has finally been approved and implemented. I will now be doing two weeks on two weeks off so I should get a lot more riding in. First two weeks off starts at the end of the month 🥳
Difference like night and day.
Went to FTR Suspension ( near Ely, Cambridgeshire, England) today to get a proper static suspension setup for £60.
Nice fellas with all the proper kit for full range of suspension mods and tweaking, and willing to chat, discuss and advise.
The rebound and rear preload settings I'd arrived at were judged good and my suspicion about insufficient front preload was confirmed.
Just ridden 60 miles home and what a difference. Now fully stable cranked right over, to the extent I'm hardly needing to hang off to keep things balanced. Much less dive under braking and, hallelujah, a much plusher ride; virtually no crashing and bumping along our dreadful back road surfaces.
The takeaways for me are:
1. If you haven't done it yet get your static setup done.
2. Imbalance between front and rear preload can make for a bumpy ride. Especially if the suspension is riding too low in the stroke at the front making the front tyre do too much work; it can still 'feel' like the rear is at fault
3. Properly set up, the VFR800 starts to approach the fantastic handling of the VF500F2 (IMO).
For anyone interested, and accepting all bikes are slightly different, this is where I'm at:
•Rider weight fully kitted 90kg
•Front: Preload 3 rings showing. Rebound 1.5 turns out from hard.
•Rear: Preload 10 clicks from soft. Rebound 1 turn out from hard.
6 hours ago, PressonDifference like night and day.
Went to FTR Suspension ( near Ely, Cambridgeshire, England) today to get a proper static suspension setup
I should add that my rear preload doesn't even start to engage the spring until at least click 4. The previous owner may have been a meaty chap or carried a lot of baggage 😂
Today? Took 8th gen for a 16/17000 mile service at local Honda dealer. Full service was £475 if anyone is interested in costs (a slight discount for me). No valve clearances.
I feel the chain is still too loose [but with tolerance, just] so disappointed that was tightened a wee bit.
And, i realise many of you will say "for goodness sakes, do it yourself and save the £500", but tbh, i have no time nor real inclination to dismantle everything just for a few parts (put it down to age) :) It's a lot I know, for changing plugs and filters. However they discovered my front wheel bearings are shot! Pretty badly in fact and must be replaced urgently! And for these 2 reasons [3 if you count the price of £475 as a third point] is why i'm writing this, just to put it out there.
Valve clearances -
there's been much said about leaving it at 16k, so i did just that. They were happy not to touch it. Many bikes go on to 36k, i have read, before they are even looked at. So i'm leaving mine for then. Sound ok to you???
Front wheel bearings -
To me, i find it strange these are gone so soon. The bikes life has been mainly fair/normal weather riding. It is possible the previous owners used high pressure washers to force water thru the rubber seals - and i dont know if they have ever been greased up, at any of the 4-6 services it has had. I would have expected longer than 17k miles. Any thoughts?? I have heard some machines [non Viffers] can go at around 10k! Either way, i have no choice to put new ones on Honda parts price £35 [plus 1/2 hour or so to fit at garage rates]. for your ref.
Oh, forgot to mention, they gave me a brand new CB500X to run around on all day, without charge, which was fair enough seeing as i was paying and am a good customer of theirs (i even put in some fuel for them!)!
Not that it matters, but i really liked the more upright position, and as the years go buy, for some uncanny reason, i'm drawn to these naked uprights! MT-09 [MT-07]. 😏
The 500 had a nice comfy upright commanding position and the tall screen took the wind off. I had fun around the roads and to weave left and right like a kid again. 'Oh what fun we had'! Seriously, it is underpowered and poor clutch/throttle setup with too much free play. But a great commuter town bike, with over 65 mpg i think?
There's a brand new 750 Hornet out now. That looked much better - but still not for me at £6999, for occasional use.....to much i fear.
I'll give a couple more years and look at the prices dropping then to £4000, or consider the Tracer -09 SP.
3 hours ago, BluehawkToday? Took 8th gen for a 16/17000 mile service at local Honda dealer. Full service was £475 if anyone is interested in costs (a slight discount for me). No valve clearances.
I feel the chain is still too loose [but with tolerance, just] so disappointed that was tightened a wee bit.
And, i realise many of you will say "for goodness sakes, do it yourself and save the £500", but tbh, i have no time nor real inclination to dismantle everything just for a few parts (put it down to age) :) It's a lot I know, for changing plugs and filters. However they discovered my front wheel bearings are shot! Pretty badly in fact and must be replaced urgently! And for these 2 reasons [3 if you count the price of £475 as a third point] is why i'm writing this, just to put it out there.
Hi Bluehawk.
Don't understand why they would replace the plugs,16,000 mile is way too early for Platinum Iridium plugs, the NGK versions are designed for 100,000mile!
Agree with you regards the front wheel bearings that perhaps a pressure washer has prematurely made them fail. I'm up to 94,000k's with no wheel bearing problems. Actually, after 94,000k's the bike is running great, no issues at all. The bike has never been in a workshop since the day I bought it new in 2014.
As for the chain, always err on the slightly loose side of the tolerance, never tight.
Enjoy your 8gen, its a great bike.
Hi Bluehawk, Grum is right. On plugs, the Honda workshop manual (available in downloads on this site) indicates replacement at 32k miles for all years of 8 Gen F variant. Strangely, the X variant specifies 16k and 32k for plug changes. Valve clearance checks on 2014-2015 version F and X variants are specified at 16k, 32k etc. For the F from 2016 on at 24k. Many don't bother though. That said, if valve checks are done that's the logical time to replace plugs to save a little on labour time. Something to think about for your next service perhaps.
If you liked the CB500x, you should try the Tiger660. It's nearly the same specs as the CB but 80hp instead of 48hp.
Grum, 9/6/2023 at 3:23 AMHi Bluehawk.
Don't understand why they would replace the plugs,16,000 mile is way too early for Platinum Iridium plugs, the NGK versions are designed for 100,000mile!
Agree with you regards the front wheel bearings that perhaps a pressure washer has prematurely made them fail. I'm up to 94,000k's with no wheel bearing problems. Actually, after 94,000k's the bike is running great, no issues at all. The bike has never been in a workshop since the day I bought it new in 2014.
As for the chain, always err on the slightly loose side of the tolerance, never tight.
Enjoy your 8gen, its a great bike.
Hi G, very interesting. This is what I get for trusting the dealer! Presson said about the manual, so i just looked it up (14-15 VFR800F [edition 61MJM01]) and for plugs it says INSPECT at 16,000m and REPLACE at 32,000m.
Nowhere does it suggest 100,000! Even in all my [old] car days never had plugs last that long.
This is the NGK IMR9D-9H Plugs they changed, so a bit confused if its the same as you're suggested, 100,000?
Valve clearances INSPECT at 16,000m.
94000 kms on yours?? the mileage since 2014 quickly adds up i guess - you have better weather to use it far more. "Never been to workshop" cos you maintain it fully yourself, i'm sure.
So......I could have waited, saved £124 on the plugs and £28 on the labour! and i bet if i look back, the previous owner [probably] changed air filter at 12000 and didn't need that either, saving another £45 or so pounds! Buggers!
Lesson learnt, at least its now in sync for next time.
RTFM as they used to say....
thnx again
Finally, I'm seeing them [dealer] tomorrow for the £35 front wheel bearings to be done. I know they are not charging me at all for the labour, so a bit of a claw-back from the £££'s i paid them.
3 hours ago, BluehawkHi G, very interesting. This is what I get for trusting the dealer! Presson said about the manual, so i just looked it up (14-15 VFR800F [edition 61MJM01]) and for plugs it says INSPECT at 16,000m and REPLACE at 32,000m.
Nowhere does it suggest 100,000! Even in all my [old] car days never had plugs last that long.
This is the NGK IMR9D-9H Plugs they changed, so a bit confused if its the same as you're suggested, 100,000?
Valve clearances INSPECT at 16,000m.
94000 kms on yours?? the mileage since 2014 quickly adds up i guess - you have better weather to use it far more. "Never been to workshop" cos you maintain it fully yourself, i'm sure.
So......I could have waited, saved £124 on the plugs and £28 on the labour! and i bet if i look back, the previous owner [probably] changed air filter at 12000 and didn't need that either, saving another £45 or so pounds! Buggers!
Lesson learnt, at least its now in sync for next time.
RTFM as they used to say....
thnx again
Hi B.
See attached spec for NGK IMR9D-9H's. While NGK specify a design life of 100,000m Honda no doubt will apply a fair reliability safety margin specifying 48,000kms. These Plugs are nothing like the old car plugs you refer to! Even my 2013 Mazda 3 has a plug change interval of 120,000kms again being Platinum, Iridium type.
I replaced my 8gen originals at 60,000kms. colour, wear and electrode gap were all good bike had no performance issues. Some years back I replaced the plugs on a mates 6gen NGK9B-9H after 70,000kms, same situation, no performance issues plugs looked good and gaps were all in spec.
Yep, from the day I picked up my 8gen I've serviced it myself. I think I'm lucky where I live, roads are never salt treated in winter, this must help bearings, chains and sprockets. I never use a pressure washer anywhere near bearings.
Note - From 2016 8gen, the valve clearance check has been increased to 36,000kms. See attached. Guess this should just apply to the 8gen in general.
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17 hours ago, GrumHi B.
See attached spec for NGK IMR9D-9H's. While NGK specify a design life of 100,000m Honda no doubt will apply a fair reliability safety margin specifying 48,000kms. These Plugs are nothing like the old car plugs you refer to! Even my 2013 Mazda 3 has a plug change interval of 120,000kms again being Platinum, Iridium type.
I replaced my 8gen originals at 60,000kms. colour, wear and electrode gap were all good bike had no performance issues. Some years back I replaced the plugs on a mates 6gen NGK9B-9H after 70,000kms, same situation, no performance issues plugs looked good and gaps were all in spec.
Yep, from the day I picked up my 8gen I've serviced it myself. I think I'm lucky where I live, roads are never salt treated in winter, this must help bearings, chains and sprockets. I never use a pressure washer anywhere near bearings.
Note - From 2016 8gen, the valve clearance check has been increased to 36,000kms. See attached. Guess this should just apply to the 8gen in general.
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Thnx v much. It is clear they've made a boo-boo! Changing plugs when they didn't have to. I have a feeling the guy [newish service counter manager type chappie] assumed that as many honda's had a plug change at a full service at 16k, the viffer would be the same. i left them to it when i booked it in, (not scutinising each item until after).
I will be more diligent in future.
Your research and knowledge is brill! Thnx. Always a joy to read your tech posts.
My manual showed the previous years, and i see that valve clearance change now!
As you said with the plugs, that's Honda just covering themselves for safety, but realistically doesn't have to be done often.
Just ride and enjoy!
True about salty roads. much corrosion over here. Walking thru the showroom so many 'nearly new' bikes with rust! The Hondas were good, tbh, but the others weren't so.
So, went back today for the 'ordered Honda front beariings' and another cockup by the parts people!!!
Koyo bearings arrived not genuine honda, but came with honda seals.
Whilst they were debating/arguing among themselves....one mech i spoke to said he 'often' opens Honda packets and Koyo parts are included, as tho Honda recommend/approve these people. Koyo have been making heavy industrial bearings since 1912 in Japan. Anyway the seals were genuine honda and the price of 38 of my British pounds worked out the same in the end (free labour).
To prove dealers are not brilliant, 'this' mech decided to tighten the chain saying it's a bit loose but not by much......[we commented on this above]...well, considering i'd just paid £475 for a full service, you wouldn't expect another mech to go over what a first [experienced] mech had already [supposedly] done, would you??
I don't think their heart is in the job at these dealerships. There was a lot of tension between the staff and in the air. Bad vibes!!
I have already had dealing with a private garage [a father and son business], so in future I'll return there, and forego [stuff!] the full honda dealer service history thing! I was only doing it for the resale element. But it's gonna depreciate anyways, so as long as it maintained well, that'll be the key thing!
Right, weekend is here...so i'm off to [not ride a bike on nice sunny dry Oz roads] but lay a laminate floor and do electrics for a friend! 😞
I sometimes think dealing with dealer servicing is a bit like 'dealing' with your General Practitioner; you have to guide them so they can help you. The alternative is to be a sponge and potluck with outcomes
My local Honda dealer replaced the plugs at the first two valve clearance checks. I didn’t think about it the first time, but asked why the second time. The response- “ its a Honda recommendation”. The third time I said “don’t do anything, but the valves, I’ll do the rest”. That dealership has now closed. The current plugs have 50,000km on them and the red rocket still flys. At 96,000kms it has never required a valve adjustment, assuming the Honda dealership actually checked them, before they took my money.
I think most dealers' shop mechanics do decent work. But not all them have a passion for it. To them it's probably just a job, like many people feel about their work. Which is to say they might do it well, but when it comes to working on our motorcycles, we probably have much more concern about it being perfect when we do our own work vs. when a shop mechanic works on it.
As for plugs, it stinks having to pay a dealer shop for something that didn't really need to be done. But knowing it was done and now won't need to be done again for years is some peace of mind. And if you're doing these things yourself, in the long run plugs and filters are cheap enough that if you do replace them more often that is needed you're not really just throwing money away.
Replaced my chain and sprockets on the 97. The old girl has 108K ( 173 K) kilometers on her now. While taking a break from cleaning the swingarm and counter sprocket areas I came across the chain tool that came with the bike when I bought it 10 years ago. When I initially looked at it, I dismissed it a a chain breaker only, and a cheap Chinese one to boot, and tossed it into the back of a toolbox drawer.
I have been using a Stockton chain tool, and its worked OK, but since I seem to be the only guy in my area with a rivet tool, its useful life is fading. So I went online to see if I could identify the one that came with the bike and maybe get some kind of use out if it.
I searched chain tool and variations of wording and found nothing in 15 minutes of looking. Finally right at the end I saw a video posted of someone putting a new DID chain on and it looked like he was using that cheap thing in my tool box. Watching further, I found out that it was in fact a DID tool, and lo and behold if you pulled the breaker pin out and turned it around, you have a rivet anvil.
We having a saying in New England " when light dawns on Marblehead" well, I had one of those moments. Of course I looked up DID rivet tools and was astonished to find they cost almost as much as a decent rear tire.
So, apologies Dave in Iowa, I finally get and appreciate your gift you threw in when you sold me your bike.
Rode through the bloody rain to an 8am MOT, it passed …. on reflection I should have worn my waterproof textile suit
"On reflection" 🌧️
Seem to remember having a few of those myself...........
FromMaine, 9/13/2023 at 9:20 AMI searched chain tool and variations of wording and found nothing in 15 minutes of looking. Finally right at the end I saw a video posted of someone putting a new DID chain on and it looked like he was using that cheap thing in my tool box. Watching further, I found out that it was in fact a DID tool, and lo and behold if you pulled the breaker pin out and turned it around, you have a rivet anvil.
We having a saying in New England " when light dawns on Marblehead" well, I had one of those moments. Of course I looked up DID rivet tools and was astonished to find they cost almost as much as a decent rear tire.
So, apologies Dave in Iowa, I finally get and appreciate your gift you threw in when you sold me your bike.
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I have that DID chain tool and after using it a few times, its worth every penny. Its a fine piece.
32 minutes ago, mello dudeI have that DID chain tool and after using it a few times, its worth every penny. Its a fine piece.
I would agree 100%. Once I looked up how to use if properly, as in flipping the pin, it was great as it was self limiting as far as how much you could flare the rivet. I did find out though that at full compression it would only flare my RK chains rivet to 5.31mm. The RK guide said 5.45-5.55mm was the rivet head range. This was easily fixed by finishing the rivet with my Stockton tool. Since I use DID, RK and EK chains, I'll just keep my calipers handy as usual and check as I go to make sure the rivet is right. Next step is to get a 27mm spanner so I can ditch the adjustable.
What did I do to my VFR?
Well, I wrung it's neck for many hours on some mountain highways today
That fat girl sings more sweetly the more abuse I give her.
Still, she needs to go on a diet and lose a few pounds, in my humble opinion.
Technically not today, but Spring of 2022. But since my password stopped working in Dec 21, and I was not able to get back online until recently, I'm playng catch up.
After riding around 50k and burning through a set of Nelson-Rigg and Rapid Transit saddle bags, both of which needed numerous repairs to get that far, I decided I needed something a bit more substantial. Pretty sure there was no oem hard bags for the 4th Gen, maybe Givi's, but rare and not particularly attractive if what I did see for hard bags on a 4th were Givi's.
So, since I had bought a couple of semi rigid bags for another bike, but sold it before using them, I had a go at making them work on the VFR.
To be clear, these are American Tourister computer, carry on, roller bags. They have enough room for a 15" computer and maybe a days worth clothes for a business trip. 2 of them are plenty for my needs. They are not waterproof, but way more than the Rigg's or Transits. The material is cloth backed heavy vinyl, so a few plastic liners do the job. BTW none of the rain covers I have ever used stand up to highway or post highway speeds.
The supports are 1/4" rod, washers welded to attach at the passenger pegs, threaded to attach to a tab on the back rest, (custom).
The squares on the supports locate the bags and keep them from moving fore and aft. The straps with quick releases hold the bags to the supports, the straps across the passenger seat pulls them in to the bike. It is solid, over 10k and zero issues. The only thing I did to the bags was 3M contact cement 3 layers of really soft felt to the insides to protect the tail piece.
I never bothered to take pics as I was putting it together so the pics are cobbled together from what I could find. Feel free to ask for any information I left out.
Edit. My other pics failed to upload. We have had sketchy, slow internet since the hurricane. Will see if I can add them later. Ok, finally got pics to upload. Bottom shows the support(s) with attachment points and design, middle the straps that hold the bags to the supports and the straps across the seat, top is what the whole show looks like in touring mode.
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Bluehawk, 9/9/2023 at 9:30 PMSo, went back today for the 'ordered Honda front beariings' and another cockup by the parts people!!!
Koyo bearings arrived not genuine honda, but came with honda seals.
Whilst they were debating/arguing among themselves....one mech i spoke to said he 'often' opens Honda packets and Koyo parts are included, as tho Honda recommend/approve these people. Koyo have been making heavy industrial bearings since 1912 in Japan. Anyway the seals were genuine honda and the price of 38 of my British pounds worked out the same in the end (free labour).
Sorry, but I had to chuckle at this!
Honda doesn't make bearings (or many of the other parts they use on their bikes and then sell as replacements), so you will never find a bearing with the name "Honda" on it. On the box or packaging, sure--that's why there's an OEM markup of 50-100%...
KOYO is one of Honda's OEM suppliers, so the quality will be on-par with any of the world's major bearing manufacturers. Moreover, most (but not all) of the bearings and seals Honda uses are standard automotive sizes and configurations, so once you decipher the codes, you can shop around and fit bearings from your favourite manufacturer. Years ago I saved a large chunk of money by replacing the bearings in my 3rd gen with new ones sourced from various suppliers and manufacturers. Only a few of them were available at a reasonable price via the Honda distribution system. The table below is from 2005, so a few years out of date (!), but it will give you the idea...
Honda VFR750F-P—Chassis Bearings and Seals
(Based on 1993 U.K.-model w/1998 VTR1000F fork conversion. Read the Notes below. Use at your own risk!)
|
Description |
Type |
# |
Honda Part Number |
Original ID numbers |
ID |
OD |
W |
Comments |
Source |
Price each |
|
swing-arm main bearing—left |
needle roller |
1 |
91071-MR7-003 |
HMK 2830 Japan UU NTN |
28 |
37 |
30 |
caged rollers, no integrated dust seals |
City DSS ACB |
£11.61 £9.08 £7.00 |
|
swing-arm dust seal—left |
1 |
91202-MR7-003 |
SDO 28 37 4 A2 ACS |
28 |
37 |
4 |
City DSS ACB |
£2.20 £2.85 £2.50 |
||
|
swing-arm main bearing—right |
radial ball |
2 |
91072-MR7-003 |
6904 Japan WS NTN |
20 |
37 |
9 |
no integrated dust seals |
City DSS ACB |
£4.20 £7.74 £5.85 |
|
swing-arm dust seal—right |
1 |
91214-MR7-003 |
SDO 26 37 5 A5 ACS |
26 |
37 |
5 |
(26 37 7 supplied by City-might fit) |
City DSS ACB |
£2.20 £2.85 £4.20 |
|
|
swing-arm pivot collar B |
inner race |
1 |
52106-MR7-000 |
N/A |
DSS |
£13.06 |
||||
|
suspension linkage bearing (at swing-arm) |
needle roller |
1 |
91071-KV3-005 |
BHM 1725 Japan Koyo |
17 |
24 |
25 |
no cage for rollers, no integrated dust seals |
DSS |
£11.51 |
|
suspension linkage bearing (in shock connecting rod & shock arm) |
needle roller |
4 |
91072-MJ0-003 |
7E-HMK 1725 Japan WS NTN |
17 |
24 |
25 |
caged rollers, no integrated dust seals |
A&P DSS ACB |
£8.50 £8.87 £6.50 |
|
suspension linkage bearing (at shock absorber) |
needle roller |
1 |
91072-KT7-003 |
7W-HMK 1720 NTN |
17 |
24 |
20 |
caged rollers, no integrated dust seals |
A&P DSS ACB |
£8.50 £8.88 £ |
|
suspension linkage oil seal |
8 |
91262-MG7-005 |
NOK AE8444H |
17 |
27 |
5 |
A&P DSS ACB |
£1.87 £2.06 £ |
||
|
suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) |
inner race |
1 |
52462-ML7-000 |
N/A |
17 |
DSS |
£8.82 |
|||
|
suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at shock absorber) |
inner race |
1 |
52477-KT7-000 |
N/A |
17 |
DSS |
£5.08 |
|||
|
suspension pivot collar (shock arm—at swing arm) |
inner race |
1 |
52463-KV3-000 |
N/A |
17 |
DSS |
£5.51 |
|||
|
suspension pivot collar (shock connecting rod) |
inner race |
1 |
52463-MT4-000 |
N/A |
17 |
DSS |
£7.32 |
|||
|
wheel bearing—front |
radial ball |
2 |
91054-MN8-741 |
6004 |
20 |
42 |
12 |
integrated black dust seals on both sides |
DSS ACB |
£11.00£5.50 |
|
wheel bearing dust seal—front |
2 |
91257-KA3-711 |
AE1544F NOK |
28 |
42 |
8 |
DSS ACB |
£3.80 £2.00 |
||
|
sprocket carrier bearing |
radial ball |
1 |
91061-MT4-003 |
DF 0768 LU Japan NTN |
35 |
55 |
20 |
integrated (red) dust seals on both sides |
City-5wk DSS DSS-wait ACB-3wk |
£25.20 £50.22£37.64£16.40 |
|
sprocket carrier dust seal |
1 |
91258-ML7-003 |
SDO 45 55 5 ACS |
45 |
55 |
5 |
DSS |
£3.90 |
||
|
sprocket carrier o-ring |
1 |
91352-MN8-003 |
N/A |
2 |
City DSS |
£0.42 £0.82 |
||||
|
rear hub bearing—right |
needle roller |
1 |
91062-MR7-003 |
8Q-NK 50x62x25-1 Japan WS NTN |
50 |
62 |
25 |
caged rollers, integrated black dust seal on one side |
A&P DSS-wait DSS |
£10.69£30.82£41.09 |
|
rear hub bearing dust seal |
1 |
91284-MR7-003 |
SDO 50 62 5 ACS B8 |
50 |
62 |
5 |
City DSS |
£2.38 £4.75 |
||
|
rear hub bearing—left |
radial ball |
2 |
91061-ML0-731 |
6908RS Japan Koyo |
40 |
62 |
12 |
integrated black dust seal on one side – plus plastic linking ring to lock both bearings together (leaving single black seals facing outwards on each side) |
City DSS DSS-wait ACB |
£33.22£50.22£37.67£14.40 |
|
steering stem bearing—upper |
angular contact ball |
(1) |
91015-KT8-005 |
32005X Japan MCI |
26 |
47 |
15 |
(note ID—must be 26mm) |
ACB |
£8.40 |
|
steering stem bearing—upper |
tapered roller |
(1) |
91015-425-832 |
N/A |
26 |
47 |
15 |
(note ID—must be 26mm) |
DSS |
|
|
steering stem bearing dust seal—upper |
1 |
53214-KA4-701 |
N/A |
27 |
48 |
4 |
metal ring with rubber edge |
DSS |
£2.47 |
|
|
steering stem bearing—lower |
angular contact ball |
(1) |
91016-KT8-005 |
32006JR Japan MCI |
30 |
55 |
17 |
DSS |
||
|
steering stem bearing—lower |
tapered roller |
(1) |
91016-371-000 |
N/A |
30 |
55 |
17 |
(32006JRRS— has integral dust seal) |
Moore |
£13.20 |
|
steering stem bearing dust seal—lower |
(1) |
53214-371-010 |
N/A |
31 |
56 |
4 |
metal ring with rubber edge |
DSS |
£3.50 |
UK-based Sources Key:
ACB = A.C. Belting Ltd, 58 Kingsholm Road, Gloucester GL1 3BQ (01452) 410 968 (Jason)
A&P = Angus & Perthshire Bearings, Unit 62A, Buccaneer Way, Perth Airfield, Scone, Perthshire PH2 6PL (01738) 553 479
City = City Seals and Bearings Ltd, 23/25 Stevenson Road, Sheffield S9 3XG (0114) 243 5343 (Jason)
DSS = David Silver Spares, Unit 14, Masterlord Industrial Estate, Station Road, Leiston, Suffolk IP16 4JD (01728) 833 020
DSS-wait = Optional 2-3 week wait, resulting in a 25% discount.
Moore = Moore International, 104 Ashley Road, Parkstone, Poole, Dorset BH14 9BN (01202) 462 220
Notes:
Steering stem bearings were originally angular-contact ball bearings; it is common to replace with tapered roller bearings, though these are more difficult to adjust properly. Tapered rollers are available from many aftermarket sources, but also from Honda (note that these Honda part numbers have not been verified). Both types of steering stem bearings use separate metal/rubber dust seals; but the optional tapered roller 32006RS lower bearing incorporates a dust seal, so no separate seal is required.
The top bearing used on many Hondas (including the VFR750FL-P) is a non-standard size. Although it is often marked "32005", it is actually a 32005 (this is an ISO standard bearing number) with a 26mm I.D. rather than the 25mm I.D. you might expect. Needless to say, this means it won't fit onto the steering stem no matter how hard you hit it. <G> Some bearing manufacturers helpfully call this bearing "32005/26", but some do not!
Front wheel bearings are for a ’94-’97 FR-FV, since the VSource.org FP uses a front wheel from a later RC36.
Ciao,
JZH
JZH, 9/20/2023 at 8:52 AMSorry, but I had to chuckle at this!
Honda doesn't make bearings (or many of the other parts they use on their bikes and then sell as replacements), so you will never find a bearing with the name "Honda" on it. On the box or packaging, sure--that's why there's an OEM markup of 50-100%...
KOYO is one of Honda's OEM suppliers, so the quality will be on-par with any of the world's major bearing manufacturers. Moreover, most (but not all) of the bearings and seals Honda uses are standard automotive sizes and configurations, so once you decipher the codes, you can shop around and fit bearings from your favourite manufacturer. Years ago I saved a large chunk of money by replacing the bearings in my 3rd gen with new ones sourced from various suppliers and manufacturers. Only a few of them were available at a reasonable price via the Honda distribution system. The table below is from 2005, so a few years out of date (!), but it will give you the idea...
Honda VFR750F-P—Chassis Bearings and Seals
(Based on 1993 U.K.-model w/1998 VTR1000F fork conversion. Read the Notes below. Use at your own risk!)
Thnx v much JZH. Most informative. I was obviously comfortable with their fitting, as i said "he 'often' opens Honda packets and Koyo parts are included...Honda recommend/approve these people", so job done and now couple of weeks later, rides fine [of course]. For the future tho, although i've always been a dealer fan (for resale purposes and mech training etc), i'm taking it to a non-Honda place i know of. They've done a few jobs for me in the past. After your comments, i'll be saving too (as a small bonus), as it may allow me to get another machine too for the collection.......Quite like the new Triumph Tiger 660 for buzzing around town/commuting. One of the chaps on here suggested it to me, so i'll take a closer look......Times, they are a changin'! :) :) :)
Contemplated...... Do I really need 3 VFRs ? Picked up an 8th gen DLX thinking it could be the "One" vfr.
Rode the 4th and 5th yesterday for the 1st time in months. Tomorrow the 8th and 5th go head to head.
After 10+ years, and about a dozen other bikes, the 4th and 5th have remained. Ergos, looks, sound, feel, they just do it for me.
The last time I had three VFRs, the 6th gen was voted off the island. The new to me 8th gen may be the weakest link.... Tomorrow...[image: VFRs9262023(44)b.thumb.jpg.9b4c01b00619a4816419259c715b2d5e.jpg][image: VFRs9262023(45)b.thumb.jpg.25cdfdfe9aeaab7db09a62dacb46cf04.jpg]
Oil and filter change and brake bleed on my VFR800X 39835 miles. :beer:
Commuted to work on my VFR this week after it being in pieces for the last 3 or 4 weeks (the temps were triple digits anyway) I had the bike already to modify the exhaust and add farkles and while it was in my driveway a tree branch fell on it busted my zero gravity touring windscreen and scratched my paint a little bit but not as bad as it could have been.
On a positive note my exhaust is squared away and great wrapped, the after market center stand works well, I was able to purchase a OEM rear rack and the Honda OEM rear case (not originally made for the VFR but I like the design) still want to add heated grips and cruise control but I'm set for now 😁
So the Carbon Rear wheel is back from the nice Ex Mclaren composites engineer & been ultrasound tested, looks pretty good. So at the weekend a tyre was fitted & the rear axles swapped to allow the Carbon back on the bike. Test rode & all seems good.
As an FYI I fitted the Dunlop Qualifier Core because the front is a Dunlop Sportsmart 3. Bare Carbon wheel is 3Kg with tyre its 10Kg. The stock Alloy wheel I had on temporarily is 6Kg, with tyre (part worn Sportsmart 2max ) is 14Kg. So carbon wheel/tyre is 4Kg less ! The old tyre is over 1Kg heavier than the new one. Most of that is in the rim/tyre. I miss the Michelin Pilot Pure's which were just over 5Kg in 180/55-17 size.
Only had it out for a 35mile shakedown/wear in ride, so will add an update when its been used for a bit. First impressions are its very similar to the previous tyre. After 35 miles the the moulding whiskers are still there in the middle of the thread.
I removed the handlebar risers that were on when I bought it. It gives a little more feel with the front wheel. Looking forward to next season on the racetrack
Last Saturday I had the pleasure to drive to Jerez de la Frontera circuit (Spain) from my home Sintra (Portugal).
A beautiful ride with a mix of highway and interior twisties roads.
Highway until Beja exit on A2, than interior roads going from Beja through Rosal de la Frontera until Sevilla, can't miss it, it's nearly just keeping following straight.
Just a bit before reaching Sevilla, a bit of highway and a Stop for a long waited dinner, I do recommend Mesones del Serranito, for bocadillo (swandich) and huevos rotos (eggs).
After another bit of highway until reaching the Circuit.
This time I just went to see my friend on a track day with his S1000RR tranning for Portuguese S1000 RR cup.
One day I will ride there with our wonderfull VFR
Happy Monday 😃
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I have my new JT sprockets arriving today with my DID 525 xring chain that i bought over a year ago waiting their arrival.
I have 32,000kms on my VFR. Sprockets still look good but as they say sprockets and chain at the same time.
Looking forward to spring.
20 hours ago, VFR80025thI have my new JT sprockets arriving today with my DID 525 xring chain that i bought over a year ago waiting their arrival.
I have 32,000kms on my VFR. Sprockets still look good but as they say sprockets and chain at the same time.
Looking forward to spring.
"Sprockets still look good but as they say sprockets and chain at the same time."
l really believe this is purely based on old school thoughts and technology.
Perhaps its based on a worse case scenario being, salty slushy roads, poor tension, poor cleanlines, cheap and nasty chain, poor maintenance, etc.
My 8gen has now done over 100,000kms on the OEM rear sprocket, the front was replaced at around 70,000kms. I know you're the type of owner who takes care and pride of his bike so I'd be shocked if you're needing a new rear sprocket at such a relatively low mileage.
I've never experienced any premature chain wear, transmission noise etc. to indicate my sprockets needed replacing, also the visual look of the sprockets showed no signs of wear.
BUT.....As always YMMV.
6 hours ago, Gruml really believe this is purely based on old school thoughts and technology.
There's some truth to that. At track days, people swap chainwheels all of the time without, obviously changing the other sprocket or chain. It may reduce chain wear, but one has to offset the cost of the chain for it to make sense. Materials also matter a lot. Steel lasts SO much longer.
My track bikes got 5k miles like clockwork, regardless of great care. Also, people have different levels of tolerance for smoothness, adjustments, etc.
Never give up. Never surrender. 🙂
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I change out the c/s sprocket at about what I feel the half life of the system is, or slightly before. It takes the most abuse, is the cheapest component and it greatly extends the life of the other two (expensive) components.
14 hours ago, Grum"Sprockets still look good but as they say sprockets and chain at the same time."
l really believe this is purely based on old school thoughts and technology.
Perhaps its based on a worse case scenario being, salty slushy roads, poor tension, poor cleanlines, cheap and nasty chain, poor maintenance, etc.
Good point Grum. And the better and more knowledgeable we are about our bikes, the more we will make our own decisions about service life and maintenance intervals.
Will a helmet still protect me in its 6th year? Should 10-year-old tires always be replaced? Will I really find a single valve too tight or loose at the required interval? Is the number of times the wheel turns (mileage) an accurate measure of when engine service is needed? Did the engineers decide, or the liability lawyers?
If I'm completely honest, for me the decision was mostly money. When I was young and poor I would take risks that now look stupid, but at the time seemed to be my only option. And now that I have enough funds, I change the sprockets with the chain! Probably way too conservative now. I guess it averages out. 😎
You're missing out on the used sprocket business. 🙂
15 minutes ago, bmartYou're missing out on the used sprocket business. 🙂
Yeah, I should go back and check the historical records. 😎
I never clean my chains unless I need to handle 'em for some reason. Cleaning means wiping with a WD40 soaked rag to remove the outer grime. I run 'em on the loose side. They get lubed warm with Chain Saver every 300 mi or so roughly every other fuel stop. I replace 'em all when I can see hooking on the sprocket teeth combined with stiff links, and increased vibes/noise.
Last one had nearly 40K on it. Minimal wear on the master link pins so it probably could have gone longer, but for $300 why risk it?
Used the winter months to replace fluids in my 02. Changed the engine oil and filter, fork oil, dust caps and oil seals, brake fluid and brake pads on the rear. Coolant is a year old so I skipped that.
Noticed the rear caliper wouldn't slide so I partially disassembled all calipers and cleaned and greased the slide pins.
Fixed an oil leak at the stator cover by replacing the gasket. Reused the gasket once before. Didn't hold for too long. Removing the old stuck on gasket was a faff. Stator still looks good.
Replaced my front wheel bearings.
A trip in early May to the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia took a toll on my front rim. When I replaced my tires last Sept. I inspected the rims and bearings carefully as the bike was new to me. With only 11.5K on the bike they were as they should be.
I knew I put a dent on the front while I was in Nova Scotia. as I also blew my right fork seal.
I put the bike away for June and July, had a lot going on. In August, tucked into the front end to find the front rim had not 1, nor 2 dents, but 3. The left fork seal was shot to boot.
Having gone through this with my 4th Gen 10 years ago, I figured the bearings were toast. I had seals and bearings on hand, until I went to install the bearings, they were for my 3rd Gen..... .🙃, so had to order a set.
Anyway, some pics, because if not, it never happened.
The right bearing was chowdered.
Edit:
For the record, the last picture is from 10 years ago and what your front bearing on your 4th Gen looks like after it disintegrates at 65 mph on the highway. I keep a close eye on my bearings now.😁
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^^^^What are those blingy rotor bolts Maine? I like... 😊
Yeah, kinda "the Hood" choice of rotor palette presentation.
But, I've had that paint sitting around for a while after buying it for a non motorcycle project. The paint I use on my rims takes about a week to cure, and well, idle hands and a desire to use the can before it's use by date..........
Honestly thought it would be a little less Mr. T after I installed them.😁
Installed new fuel drain hose, throttle body insulators & Napa Auto sourced radiator cap.
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I’m looking forward to road testing to verify cooling system performance.
I’d been chasing down some elevated coolant temps and a situation where the radiator fan or air flow at speed wasn’t able to bring the coolant temp below the switch threshold to turn off the fan. After testing and verifying the properly functioning thermostat I’d installed a year ago (I was thinking it may not be opening all the way), I tested the OEM rad cap I’d installed, what I thought was a year or two ago, actually ended up being 4 years ago. I should have tested that first because I found the cap would slowly leak. Buttoned everything back up and logged heat cycle times to compare to an earlier test and it looks good.
It was a good reminder to test/verify especially those things that were relatively recently replaced.
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Changed the coolant on the 8 Gen to Honda Type 2 ( as I had it in stock) which meant flushing through with demineralised water to clear the old stuff out.
The bodywork on the 8 Gen is beautifully made but what a royal PITA to get the fairing off and on again. So many tabs, clips, bolts. Perhaps I'm just slow but I'm sure the fairing antics took twice as long as flushing and changing the coolant. There's also a section in the lower fairing behind the radiator which collects water and grit and rusts the bolt there. I'm thinking a couple of drain holes need drilling to sort that out.
Changed the crossrunner stickers to Oem vfr ones,I think it looks much better.
How did you get the original stickers off, just rip them?
5 hours ago, ThumbsHow did you get the original stickers off, just rip them?
I used a hairdryer to heat them up and then using a finger nail I pulled up a corner then pulled them off,mostly came off in large pieces.
Finished yanking the front end and cleaning the hydraulic oil off. Tomorrow goes to the suspension guru for Andreani fully adjustable forks internals, straight rate springs for my weight, and OEM rebuild bits.
Hi OT, do report back on your fork upgrade. You might be the first with an 8 Gen to tell us you've upgraded the internals. Quite interested in the Andreani kit so it would be good to hear your experiences particularly the range of compression adjustment.
The previous owner of this bike had installed shorty levers for some reason. It's something that has bothered me from day one, but I didn't do anything about it.
I don't know why I waited so long to replace them, and now that I have....wow. I feel like I'm on a new bike.
Bike doesn't look any different in pictures, though, so that kinda sucks 😅
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Shorty levers rock. My activations are all 1 or 2 fingers.
Chem-cleaned the oil cooler! 25 years of grime gone and its purty...well sort of.
10 hours ago, bmartShorty levers rock. My activations are all 1 or 2 fingers.
Man, I don't know how you get the leverage you need, especially on the road in certain situations. The longer levers make a huge difference for me and I feel like I can go deeper into corners because I can brake harder without having to reach over to get all my fingers on the short lever. Haha
To each his own... I also prefer the long style levers...
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Redslut goes pizza delivery!
Yes honey, that box makes yet arse look huge!!
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16 hours ago, mello dudeTo each his own... I also prefer the long style levers...
All my bikes have long levers except my 2001. I have a genetic issue with my hands, they are failing for lack of a better explanation. I need all the leverage I can get.
I can certainly see why many guys would want shorty levers though as braking systems get better and better.
Last ride before commencing chemotherapy and managed to drop it at a traffic circle. Luckily no forward movement at the time because a pedestrian lady carrying a baby decided to step out into my exit lane at the same time a car driver who clearly hadn't seen me decided to accelerate towards me when he should have been giving way. Result: a rapid stop leant a bit to the right and over we go before I can get the foot down. By golly getting it upright again was a struggle.
Some scuffing on the crankcase cover and a few nicks on the fairing. I guess it was lucky. Any advice on repairing those minor marks?
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1 hour ago, PressonLast ride before commencing chemotherapy and managed to drop it at a traffic circle. Luckily no forward movement at the time because a pedestrian lady carrying a baby decided to step out into my exit lane at the same time a car driver who clearly hadn't seen me decided to accelerate towards me when he should have been giving way. Result: a rapid stop leant a bit to the right and over we go before I can get the foot down. By golly getting it upright again was a struggle.
Some scuffing on the crankcase cover and a few nicks on the fairing. I guess it was lucky. Any advice on repairing those minor marks?
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Sorry to hear about the medical issue. and yes you are lucky, I almost got taken out in my first month living in the UK in a traffic circle.
As far as the minor scratches go, I think your fairing would be Honda R334, Victory Red. You could look for someone who supplies paint pens in the UK or Europe. I certainly saw lots of VFR's in both, I would assume they are available. The link is for a US company, but will give you an idea of what I mean.
Honda VFR800F Touch Up Paint & Paint Color Codes
Probably the same is available for the Crankcase cover, but my newest VFR is a 2001, so I have no idea what the color code is. Sure someone here will be able to offer some info.
Lastly, I have put my manhood in my back pocket and marched into a large stores Cosmetic section with a motorcycle bit and color matched to nail polish. This doesn't last forever colorwise if left outside, but holds up well if the bike is covered or stored inside, and its as tough as nails. Just a thought.
Good luck mate.
Maine, thanks for the link! :fing02:
DirtbikesRule, 10/28/2025 at 11:33 PMMan, I don't know how you get the leverage you need, especially on the road in certain situations. The longer levers make a huge difference for me and I feel like I can go deeper into corners because I can brake harder without having to reach over to get all my fingers on the short lever. Haha
Same here
The best place for Honda paint in the UK is https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/paints4ucom
If you ask they’ll tell you what colour the primer should be if you need it
44 minutes ago, MBraneI just have a short piece of clear tubing that fits on the end of the funnel. For the trans/diff in the race car we have garden sprayers with the nozzles removed.
Don't have any spare tubing but next time..
3 hours ago, SkidsMy new garage finally has the electrics fitted so I'm in a position to start servicing my bikes.
First is my 14 VFR1200F. She's hardly been ridden in the last 18 months so today I changed the oil & oil filter and replaced the final drive oil. I had to improvise to get the final drive into the vertical filler hole so I heated and bent the pipe of one of my spare funnels. Has anyone else done something different/better?
Next is replacing the brake & clutch fluids and finally the coolant.
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I use these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-sy5002-white-black-pressure-sprayer-5ltr/7490x
1 for engine oil.
1 for trans oil (ATF).
1 for coolant.
1 for diluted car shampoo.
For oil filling, just remove lance & you're good to go, no messing about with funnels & they pump uphill.
Label em, or it's OMG WTF did I just do.
B&Q do a variety of PVC hose or eBay, I prefer clear hose on my fillers.
Also have a hand pump vacuum bottle 3ltr for (Dot 4).
Save a ton of mess for little outlay.