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Introducing my new (old) VFR800FI

22 posts Started 9 May 2025 Last recovered post 19 Sep 2025 Wayback Machine snapshot 13 Oct 2025

#1

It's been a few months since I bought it, but I can only write now. I've always liked the VFR, I wasn't looking for one, but I had an opportunity (for me) and I bought it.

I'm Italian and I live in Italy, and the bike is a 1998 VFR 800FI, single owner with just over 54,800km (34,000 miles), I paid 1,200 euros ($1,350) for the bike. It was sold as non-functioning, because it had been standing still for several years, the owner had vision problems, he hoped to solve them and so he kept the bike, then not being able to recover he decided to sell it. The bike had no problems when it was stopped, the problems are all inside the tank, the rotten petrol has caused disasters.

In my spare time I will start to fix it, do a good service and all the necessary checks. I will share with you the progress of my work and I will undoubtedly need your help. I show you some photos of the bike and the disaster in the tank.

I'd love to hear your opinions on the bike (and the disaster...)

#2

Welcome! The bike looks to be pretty complete and as far as the fuel pump, we've seen much worse! Hopefully it won't take much to get it going again. 

Justin

#3

What worries me most is how to clean the inside of the tank which is reduced like the pump and even worse....

Do you have any advice on how to clean it?

#4

I had the same problem when I bought my 2001. I worked on ships my entire life, where rust is a constant problem. We use a product called Phosphoric acid to neutralize rust as it chemically changes iron oxide into iron phosphate, which acts as a barrier to further oxidation. Here is the post I wrote up last fall.

I assume you have the tank off the bike, if so set up a table with a soft blanket, drain most of the gas into a container and set aside as you will use it. Place the tank upside down on the table. Use a pair of rubber gloves and a coarse 3M pad and reach inside the tank and scrub everywhere you can reach using the old gas as a solvent. This sound tedious, but does not really take that long. When done, prop the tank upright, I used some line to hold it up and use a hand pump to remove the gas and rust into a shallow pan, like you would use for an oil change, and set that outside in the sun. The gas will eventually evaporate leaving the rust and a bit of sludge which can be more easily disposed of rather than all that liquid. 

Repeat this process using your old gas until you feel you have gotten everything you can reach out of the tank. Let the inside of the tank dry for a day or 2. When completely dry, take about 1/3 of a litre of fresh gas and use a fresh 3M pad and scrub the inside of the tank again. If the gas turns brown or rusty, drain and repeat until scrubbing with fresh gas does not discolor it. Drain and let the tank fully dry again for a few  days or so.

Remove your fuel pump from the plate it is attached to while waiting for the tank to dry, you will need it to plug the hole when you add the Phosphoric acid to the tank. When the tank is dry, add about 1/3 of a litre of the acid, and with rubber gloves and a fresh 3 M pad, srcub the inside of the tank. If the acid turns brown from rust, drain and repeat until its fairly clear. I let the tank dry for a day, but at that point you can add about 1/2 litre of acid, seal the tank with the plate, plug the fuel lines and turn the tank around 360 degrees in each direction. When fully coated remove the plate and drain the acid into a container and save. Let the tank dry completely and inspect, it should look pretty good by now. If it does, take the acid you saved and put into the tank and repeat this last process one more time, then drain and let the tank dry. If all goes well it should look like mine in the post.

Note, I do not live in a very warm place, if you happen to this process will go much faster. It took me almost 4 weeks, but 95% of that was waiting for the tank to dry.

Note. Phosphoric acid sound like a strong thing to use, but look at a can of Coke, its listed as one of the ingredients, so if you can drink something that contains it, well, its not so bad,

Note. Phosphoric acid will discolor paint if left on a surface , so be careful when pouring and removing. I keep a spray bottle of water handy along with some rags to clean it up if it does happen to get on the paint.

Note. Letting the old gas and rust evaporate in the sun means you do not have to find a way to dispose of it, same applies to any left over old acid.

Note. If your pump still functions, you can carefully clean it also with the acid. I used small acid brushes and Qtips. Do not soak the entire pump in it. if the tank is that bad you probably should replace the pre filter and primary filter for peace of mind.

Note. When done, I do not recommend you coat the tank with anything. A look inside the tank should be explanation enough for why this is not a good idea.

Note. Do not use any Phosphoric acid product that is not a thin liquid. There are some out there that are Gels, avoid those as they will leave a residue in the tank that will ruin an otherwise great day on your bike.

Hope all of this long winded post proves to be of some value to you. Take heart, you can get through this and be out riding this summer, it will just take some time and elbow grease.

Best of Luck, and don't hesitate to PM me if you need any clarification to what I posted above.

Regards, Michael

#5

Well, if it's really bad, there's always this:

[image: spacer.png]

Ciao,

JZH

#6
Il 10/05/2025 alle 14:51, JZH ha dichiarato:

Beh, se è davvero brutto, c'è sempre questo:

[image: spacer.png]

Ciao,

JZH

I had seen it at CMS, it costs almost as much as I paid for the entire bike! Then with the couriers that are around it would not arrive at its destination intact!
It was never my intention to change the tank, otherwise knowing I would have to do it I certainly would not have bought that bike.

#7

Congratulations on your bike.

This may work for you, the price is very low.

The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Better than EvapoRust) - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

1 liter of water

100 grams Citric Acid

40 grams Sodium Carbonate

2 Tablespoons dishwash soap ≈ 30 mL (I use regular Dawn)

I have excellent results in removing rust and cleaning parts.

I cleaned my very dirty and rusty 5 Gen header in a 38 liter trash bin, 12 hours for 1/2 of the header and another 12 hours for the second 1/2.

I do not know what it will do to paint. I would suggest using this solution only on the inside of the tank.

Good luck.

#8

Shit happens 💀

Once restored the tank, consider "Tankerite" treatment 👍



[OT]
yesterday I've been passing close to you; from Trento to Lucca, then Prato, via secondary roads. From Modena to Lucca I got a AWFUL SHOWER; I was hoping to have fun on Abetone; I've been riding on the flood, instead 😅
[/OT]

#9
Il 10/05/2025 alle 14:50, FromMaine ha dichiarato:

Ho avuto lo stesso problema quando ho comprato il mio 2001. Ho lavorato sulle navi per tutta la mia vita, dove la ruggine è un problema costante. Utilizziamo un prodotto chiamato acido fosforico per neutralizzare la ruggine poiché cambio chimicamente l'ossido di ferro in fosfato di ferro, che funge da barriera all'ulteriore ossidazione. Ecco il post che ho scritto lo scorso autunno.

Presumo che tu abbia il serbatoio fuori dalla bicicletta, se è così allestisci un tavolo con una coperta morbida, scarica la maggior parte del gas in un contenitore e metti da parte come lo userai. Posizionare il serbatoio a testa in giù sul tavolo. Utilizzare un paio di guanti di gomma e un cuscinetto grossolano 3M e raggiungere all'interno del serbatoio e strofinare ovunque è possibile raggiungere utilizzando il vecchio gas come solvente. Sembra noioso, ma non ci vuole molto. Al termine, puntella il serbatoio in posizione verticale, ho usato un po' di lenza per tenerlo in piedi e usare una pompa a mano per rimuovere il gas e la ruggine in una padella poco profonda, come useresti per un cambio d'olio, e posizionarlo fuori al sole. Il gas finirà per evaporare lasciando la ruggine e un po' di fango che può essere smaltito più facilmente piuttosto che tutto quel liquido.

Ripeti questo processo utilizzando il tuo vecchio gas finché non senti di aver ottenuto tutto ciò che puoi raggiungere dal serbatoio. Lascia asciugare l'interno del serbatoio per un giorno o 2. Quando è completamente asciutto, prendere circa 1/3 di litro di gas fresco e utilizzare un tampone fresco da 3 M e strofinare nuovamente l'interno del serbatoio. Se il gas diventa marrone o arrugginito, scolare e ripetere fino a strofinare con gas fresco non scolorirlo. Scolare e lasciare asciugare completamente il serbatoio di nuovo per alcuni giorni o giù di lì.

Rimuovi la pompa del carburante dalla piastra a cui è fissata mentre aspetti che il serbatoio si asciughi, ti servirà per tappare il foro quando aggiungi l'acido fosforico al serbatoio. Quando il serbatoio è asciutto, aggiungere circa 1/3 di litro di acido, e con guanti di gomma e un tampone fresco da 3 M, strofinare l'interno del serbatoio. Se l'acido diventa marrone dalla ruggine, scolare e ripetere fino a quando non è abbastanza chiaro. Lascio asciugare il serbatoio per un giorno, ma a quel punto puoi aggiungere circa 1/2 litro di acido, sigillare il serbatoio con la piastra, tappare le linee del carburante e ruotare il serbatoio di circa 360 gradi in ciascuna direzione. Quando è completamente rivestito, rimuovere la piastra e drenare l'acido in un contenitore e risparmiare. Lascia asciugare completamente il serbatoio e ispezionalo, dovrebbe sembrare abbastanza buono ormai. Se lo fa, prendi l'acido che hai salvato e metti nel serbatoio e ripeti quest'ultimo processo ancora una volta, quindi scarica e lascia asciugare il serbatoio. Se tutto va bene dovrebbe sembrare mio nel post.

Nota, non vivo in un posto molto caldo, se ti capita questo processo andrà molto più veloce. Mi ci sono volute quasi 4 settimane, ma il 95% di queste aspettava che il serbatoio si asciugasse.

Nota. L'acido fosforico sembra una cosa forte da usare, ma guarda una lattina di Coca-Cola, è elencata come uno degli ingredienti, quindi se puoi bere qualcosa che la contiene, beh, non è così male

Nota. L'acido fosforico scolorirà la vernice se lasciato su una superficie, quindi fai attenzione quando versi e rimuovi. Tengo a portata di mano una bottiglia spray d'acqua insieme ad alcuni stracci per ripulirla se capita di salire sulla vernice.

Nota. Lasciare evaporare il vecchio gas e la ruggine al sole significa che non devi trovare un modo per smaltirlo, lo stesso vale per qualsiasi acido avanzato.

Nota. Se la tua pompa funziona ancora, puoi pulirla con cura anche con l'acido. Ho usato piccole spazzole acide e Qtips. Non immergere l'intera pompa in esso Se il serbatoio è così male probabilmente si dovrebbe sostituire il pre filtro e filtro primario per la pace della mente.

Nota. Al termine, non ti consiglio di rivestire il serbatoio con nulla. Uno sguardo all'interno del serbatoio dovrebbe essere una spiegazione sufficiente per il motivo per cui questa non è una buona idea.

Nota. Non utilizzare alcun prodotto a base di acido fosforico che non sia un liquido sottile. Ce ne sono alcuni là fuori che sono Gel, evitali perché lasceranno un residuo nel serbatoio che rovinerà una giornata altrimenti fantastica sulla tua bicicletta.

Spero che tutto questo post con vento lungo si riveli di un certo valore per te. Prenditi il cuore, puoi superare tutto questo ed essere in giro quest'estate, ci vorrà solo un po' di tempo e unto di gomito.

Best of Luck, e non esitare a farmi da PM se hai bisogno di qualche chiarimento su quello che ho postato sopra.

Saluti, Michael

Thank you very much for the time you spent explaining your work in detail.
The tank had already been emptied by the previous owner and the inside is now completely dry, there is a lot of debris inside. The pump is not working, but I have already purchased another one, soon after cleaning the tank I will buy new gaskets. I did not know about the treatment with phosphoric acid, you never stop learning, thank you very much for this knowledge!

#10
Tirso, 5/12/2025 at 2:28 AM

Complimenti per la tua bici.

Questo potebbe funzionare per te, il prezzo è molto basso.

The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Meglio di EvapoRust) - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

1 litro d'acqua

100 grammi di acido citrico

40 grammi Carbonato di sodio

2 cucchiai di detersivo per piatti sapone ≈ 30 mL (uso Dawn normale)

Ho ottimi risultati nella ripresa della ruggine e nella pulizia delle parti.

Ho pulito la mia sporchissima e arrugginita testata da 5 Gen in un Cestino da 38 litri, 12 ore per 1/2 dell'intestazione e altre 12 ore per il secondo 1/2.

Non so cosa farà dipingere. Suggerirei di utilizzare questa soluzione solo all'interno del serboio.

Buona fortuna.

Thank you so much for the video you shared, I find it very interesting and informative. I really like these types of videos where chemical reactions are explained in detail and how they react. He really did a lot of tests of all kinds and also the comparison with Evaporust. Given the low cost and easy availability of the products I think it is worth a try, thanks again very much for sharing this with me!

#11

I put my phone inside the tank and took some pictures

#12

ewwwwwwwwwww

Though it isnt the worst seen here, it is quite bad.
I'd wager a few flushes with vinegar can do it justice though. Nothing to be that scared of.

#13
Tirso, 5/11/2025 at 8:28 PM

Congratulations on your bike.

This may work for you, the price is very low.

The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Better than EvapoRust) - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

1 liter of water

100 grams Citric Acid

40 grams Sodium Carbonate

2 Tablespoons dishwash soap ≈ 30 mL (I use regular Dawn)

I have excellent results in removing rust and cleaning parts.

I cleaned my very dirty and rusty 5 Gen header in a 38 liter trash bin, 12 hours for 1/2 of the header and another 12 hours for the second 1/2.

I do not know what it will do to paint. I would suggest using this solution only on the inside of the tank.

Good luck.

If the homemade thing works, cool.  But I'll disagree with "better than Evaporust" when the main ingredient in the recipe is citric acid.  The major benefit of Evaporust is it's not an acid and won't attack good metal, plastic bits and other stuff.  It works through a process called chelation and the stuff can be used repeatedly until it's loaded and stops working.

#14

The citric/soda/soap solution will take care of that rust no problem, and will not touch the paint.

Before & after 24 hour soak:

#15

Spectacular!
Initially I thought about trying vinegar, but then you convinced me to use citric acid. Soon I'll go buy the ingredients and prepare the product, but first I'll test it on another small tank of a motor pump that has the same problem.

Another question, could the treatment with citric acid ruin the external paint of the tank? Because inside it is rusty, but outside it is in very good condition and I don't want to run the risk of ruining it.

#16

Subject near and dear to my heart. When I bought my 2002 VFR800 in 2020 with about 12,000 miles in apparently pristine condition, I was happy as a clam.  Upon my first fill up, I found a tank full of rust (shame on me for not checking before buying). So,I used water, Simple Green cleaner and a short length of chain to scrub out the worst of the rust. I then fabricated a couple of a blockoff plates with some aluminum sign scrap I had and some old bicycle inner tube material as gaskets, Dried the tank and quickly filled it with a few gallons of cider vinegar. Left it for a couple of days and it came out nice and pretty.  Fuel pump was fine, but needless to say, I changed the fuel filter.

As for chelating agents, believe it not (you can look it up), molasses does a great job of that and is totally non-toxic and actually smells nice (if you like molasses). Don't know about the availability of molasses in Italy, but here in the US, Tractor Supply stores have it in bulk for animal feed.  Have a sealed bucket in my garage that I soaked a bunch of rusty RD350 parts in, and while they did not come out bright and shiny, they came out rust free.  Very sticky, though.  😀

#17

Good job!!

I have some metal I need to drill to make the caps on the bottom of the tank. Unfortunately, I'm short on time, and the work is progressing slowly.

Speaking of filters, the original filter that comes with the pump costs a fortune. Are there any alternatives? After treatment, residue can easily remain even after thorough cleaning, so I was thinking about replacing it after a while, but I need to find a cheaper alternative.

But what's so special about the original filter that it costs so much?

#18

#GTMAN,

No idea why filters cost so much (other than "capitalism"). My filter cost about $61 (USD) on Amazon. I've had no problems with residue in the tank using water, cider vinegar, water, and then gasoline.

Good luck with getting her back on the road again!

#19

I haven't disappeared; I have a bit of time to devote to these things, so the wait is a bit long. During my "vacation" in August, I dedicated myself to cleaning the rusty tank with Beyond Ballistics' "magic potion," and the result was amazing. I wasn't entirely convinced, especially since the treatment leaves a dark patina on the metal, which is easily removed by scrubbing, but doing it inside the tank and reaching all the spots was impossible. So when I did the treatment, I added some gravel (6-7 lbs) to scrub the inside of the tank. I'm posting some photos of the same parts before and after the treatment so you can judge the result for yourself.

[image: IMG_20250514_195929.thumb.jpg.4da77795aca0c70c0f510d792a53ffd7.jpg][image: IMG_20250827_184903.thumb.jpg.67e48c25a6dd4ac574797723b2d483c1.jpg]

[image: IMG_20250514_195850.thumb.jpg.49ba23b2b8523c11c938ce28a19c7ba7.jpg][image: IMG_20250827_185257.thumb.jpg.f08b081c0a0094a0952abcf3963ffcd1.jpg]

during treatment

[image: IMG_20250826_130054.thumb.jpg.95163c1dbc0d3b416dd7d93e607830c5.jpg]

Once finished I rinsed several times with water shaking the gravel inside, then once everything was removed I put in a little diesel to remove the water residue and leave everything slightly greasy so that it doesn't rust.

#20

Can't argue with those results!

#21

That is a really good result!  Impressed.  Do you also neutralize it with something after, before filling with fuel?

#22

Beyond Ballistics explains in its video that the treatment doesn't corrode the metal, but only removes the rust. The citric acid is neutralized by the sodium carbonate, so the solution becomes almost basic.
In any case, I washed the tank several times with water and then used diesel fuel to grease the metal so that it wouldn't rust again until I filled it with gasoline.

End of thread · 22 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 13 Oct 2025