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FactoryPro Evo Star Shift Kit Report

12 posts Started 7 Sep 2005 Last recovered post 14 Oct 2008 Wayback Machine snapshot 27 Nov 2014

#1
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I installed FactoryPro's "Evo Star" shift kit this past weekend. http://www.factorypro.com/

It's a straightforward install, technically simple but somewhat time-consuming when combined with chain replacement. On the other hand, it's a good excuse to do the whole left-side area: cleaning gook, new parts, new chain and sprockets, and a really, really thorough oil change!!

Most of the work is nicely documented in this How-To Guide, http://www.vfrdiscus...?showtopic=7886 , with the exception of the heart of the matter, the star wheel (detent wheel, shifter cam, etc). I assume this part was not available when the how-to was performed. This star piece is the final step before you start to reassemble the whole thing. It's simple, except that you will need a 6mm hex bit (allen) to reach in and unbolt and properly re-torque the bolt. Torque is 23 n-m/17 ft-lbs, and threads of bolt and shaft must be clean, dry and Loctited. So, you'll also need some brake cleaner to spray into the bolt hole. You'll find a small dowel behind the stock star. Remove it from the shaft that you see when you remove the star, and put it in the new star. Then you simply put the new star in the obviously correct location (where the little dowel goes), install bolt with Loctite, torque.

I also replaced the shifter shaft seal in the linkage cover. Mine wasn't leaking except for typical seepage. That seal catches hell due to dirt, constant reversal of shaft rotation, side loading...all of which lets fine grit into the seal. Anyway, might as well replace a 4 dollar part while it's all apart, just like the water pump gasket (o-ring).

The result? Very, very nice. Shifts are "shorter", easier, less clunky, faster, more positive....less false neutrals, whatever you want to call it. I highly recommend this mod if you like to really zip through the gearbox. Clutchless and throttle-on/stab-clutch powershifts are far less scary. YMMV.

All,

I'm re-posting the photos of the stock parts vs. the FactoryPro stuff, and a shot of the inside of the case where the star wheel goes. I didn't realize that deleting the pics from "My Album" would kill 'em on the thread. A few guys PMd me to ask for the pics, otherwise I wouldn't have known. Thanks HS for straightening me out.

A little tip: That little dowel pin that indexes with the star wheel is a funny thing (you see it at 1 o'clock in the pic, but it can be anywhere, depending on what gear you're in). I could NOT get the new wheel to engage it when I placed it on the shaft and turned it a bit, expecting it to "drop in". I was in the 'uh-oh, damn, doesn't fit!!' stage, when I simply pulled the pin out of the shaft with needlenose pliers, put it in the hole on the back of the star wheel, and PRESTO, everything lined up just peachy fine.

After a month or so of doing this mod, along with the SERIOUS oil change that goes along with it (good to the last drop!), I'm satisfied that my $200 was well spent.

Snick, snick.....

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compare--stock vs. evo star stuff (on right)


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inside of case where star wheel goes
#2
Thanks for the update. This is a mod I promissed I would perform after I blew up a transmission at Barber last year... but still haven't done. And, to add insult, I just bought the kit for my track bike, so the poor VFR is not getting all the goodies that it gets... sad.

Some day soon.
#3
Here's the stock star on the left, new unit on right, with matching detent arms. Spring is a tiny bit thicker than the stocker, a bit more positive detent pressure, but no strain on the top of your foot, by any means.


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shifter wheel comparison


And here's the case, with the star (and everything else) removed. You can see the little dowel pin in the end of the shaft. You pull it out with needlenose pliers (comes right out) and put it in hole on the back of the new star, otherwise the star won't engage it for some mysterious reason. Once that's done, it's fine. Threads in the center of shaft get cleaned, dried, and the bolt Loctited.


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shifter case


Of course, pictures don't really mean anything, I just figgered you guys would want to see what your $199 gets ya.
#4
I had just gotten used to my VFR's gearbox when I took a friend's Suzuki for a ride and it reminded me the Honda isn't as clean shifting as some other bikes http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/sad.gif Maybe I'll have to spring for this over the winter.
#5

Maybe I'll have to spring for this over the winter.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>



Thats a very bad double entendre...

<_<

<_<

:D
#6
Glad to see some people are still getting a little use out of the Shift Kit Install guide I did a while back. When I put the kit in my 99, the star wheel upgrade wasn't available. Even without it, there was a significant improvement in shifting. I can only imagine the new star wheel would make it even better.

Thanks for the description and posting the pictures. :huh:
#7
Jetpilot5-

Your "How To" for 99 percent of this install was most excellent, thank you very much. My 1 percent contribution for the star wheel was easy, after all of your hard work in the original write-up and pictures.

And yes, this is a very good mod. Snick, snick!
#8
The original detent arm kit was only about $90. This new one with the star wheel is $200!!!! Is it really worth the extra money??? Wonder what kind of difference between the two of them?? (besides $110) :huh:
#9
Will this work for 6th Gen VFR's?
#10
wera--

I don't reckon I can answer that question, but frankly, when I first saw Jetpilot5's report, I wondered how the $90 kit with just a fancier detent arm and a spring could really make a difference. When I went to FactoryPro's website to learn about the $90 kit and then saw that the kit now had a new star, I ordered one instanlty. To me, the reshaped star makes total sense, and the arm/spring items only enhance the star's improvement.

Is it worth $200? Was the orginal kit worth $90? Does the $110 matter if it works? Well, you couldn't give me $500 to take it out, so......what's it worth?

"You pays your money, you takes your choice."
#11
Sorry to say this after the fact, but if the old gasket comes off the engine case 100% with no residue and the gasket itself is completely undamaged and intact on the case cover, I would have just reused it.
#12

[image: View Post]sckego, on Oct 12 2008, 07:25 AM, said:

Cleaning up and I find two small metal pieces. Oh, shit. They're the dowel pins that are supposed to install with the shifter cover. Arggggggg.... are these things important enough that I really have to disassemble the whole thing again to put them in?
AFAIK, they're just present to make it easier to put the cover in place, as they locate it and hold it there while you slip the bolts in. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about it - just install them next time you take the cover off to change the countershaft sprocket or clean the accumulated chain spooge out.
End of thread · 12 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 27 Nov 2014