I have just finished fitting my Motovation brand frame sliders to my VTEC. It was a pretty easy job in the end - so long as you have the cojones to drill your fairing you should be right as rain.
Here is a quick rundown.
Tools you will need:
- Dremel with grinding wheel or sanding drum
- 54mm hole saw (for radiator bottle)
- 51mm hole saw (for fairing)
- Some silicon sealant
What you will receive:
Two frame sliders (identical)
Two mounting bolts (one longer than the other - this is normal!)
Make sure the bike is on the centrestand on a level surface so that you don't drill holes on funny angles!
Stage 1 - The coolant bottle!
Fair dinkum, this is the hardest part of the job, which is a good thing because your fairings are what you want to worry about.
First, start by removing your fairings. On the left-side of the bike, we need to mark where to drill the hole in the coolant bottle, so remove the bottle and then loosen the engine mounting bolt. Mark the tip of the bolt with paint or something else that will create a good mark, and spin the bolt out a little. Re-mount the coolant bottle and push it up against the bolt-head so that the bottle gets marked with the paint. Remove the bottle and then mark the middle of the circle of paint.
Take the bottle to a flat surface, and use a 54mm holesaw to drill a hole right through the bottle - using the centre of the painted circle as your pilot marker.
You now need to fill this hole in with a cylinder/sleeve of some sort. I used the cap from a spray can, which I cut down to size by slicing right through it and sliding it into the hole even though it overlapped itself a bit. Once I could see how much to remove, I cut it so that there was only a 5mm overlap, and then glued this cylinder of plastic back together before sliding it back into the coolant bottle.
It is unlikely you will find a plastic that will readily glue to the plastic that the coolant bottle is made of, so I recommend using silicon. It's waterproof and rubbery so that the join won't crack during vibration. Once the silicon dries, fill the bottle with water and see if it leaks. Note that if your cylinder/sleeve is made of thick plastic, you may need to enlarge the 54mm hole in the bottle so that the frame slider still fits through it!
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Radiator bottle - drilled with 54mm hole saw
Stage 2 - the fairings
Remove the existing engine mounting bolts and install the new bolts. The long bolt goes on the left-side by the way! Leaving the bolts loose, put the fairings back on the bike but only secure them using the bolt at the bottom of the fairing. This will ensure the fairing is in the right place and secure, but can still be "lifted away" from the frame so that you can get your hands behind it. You will also need to remove the coolant overflow bottle at this time if you have re-fitted it.
Using a soft-lead pencil, get your hands behind the fairing and spin out the new bolts until they touch the inside of the fairing. Carefully use the pencil to mark around the bolt head. Remove the fairing and then mark the centre of the circle you have just drawn with the pencil.
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Pilot Hole marker
Now drill from the inside out using a small (3mm or so) drill bit as your pilot hole. The picture below shows the hole after I have just re-mounted the fairing.
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Pilot Hole - drill from inside out
Have a close look at the picture below. The hole saw centre bit fits inside the head of the bolt. This is an excellent way of centering your drill bit! With the new bolts still installed, mount the fairings securely and drill your pilot hole out to about 6mm. If you've marked the pilot hole correctly, the hole should be perfectly in line with the frame slider mounting bolts. If the hole is off a little, slowly grind your way towards lining up with the bolt by pushing the the 6mm drill bit sideways. Be aware that this takes a little while because the drill bit is obviously not designed to cut sideways! However because it's so slow, it's quite safe.
Also, you may note that the bolt has "12.9" stamped on it. This refers to the strength grading of the steel, which you can read more about at the Motovation website.
Ensure the bike is on its centrestand and on a level surface. Using your pilot holes you made in the fairing, drill the final hole in the fairing using a 51mm (2 inch) holesaw. This is the perfect size (and I mean perfect) for the motovation sliders.
If your new hole is a bit off-centre or a bit tight, use your Dremel to make the hole slightly larger or to add a bit of clearance. Personally, I found that I drilled the holes about 1mm too far forward and had to grind the back of the hole out a bit. The hole ended up a tad elliptical, but you can't tell!
Must be the season. I also just fitted mine after having them for over 9 months.
The only difference I did was that I used 'Blu Tack', I think you guys might know it as 'Silly Putty' or similar, to mark where to drill. Just stick it lightly on the engine mount bolts, refit the fairing or bottle & tap them against the bolt with 'putty' on it. It then sticks to the fairng/bottle with a neat impression of the bolt hole. Just use a straight edge of some sort to draw a few diagonals to find the centre & then drill a small pilot hole.
I'm now waiting for my fairings to be returned from local smash repairers after having the rash from 2 stationary drops, filled & painted. The reason for the sliders after all ... :D
Oh BTW I've told the repairers to spray the black section between the headlights red as well. So I'll have the new '06 body coloured section ... :beer:
I fitted mine about 2 months ago and boy I am sure glad I did since I dropped it about 2 weeks later while waiting at some lights (I had dropped it a number of times before fitting the sliders but always got away with minimum damage).
The only thing is, when I drilled the fairings I missed the mark by about 1 cm on the right side and 0.5cm on the left. I had to dremel the holes a bit wider but now they look fairly poxy. Given the angle of the fairings at the point where the sliders go I'm almost certain they can't be repaired. Oh well :rolleyes:
One piece of advice for anyone going to fit them, you should be able to get PVC piping from your local hardware store that exactly fits the frame sliders through with no room to spare. This is what I used for the coolant bottle mod.
One piece of advice for anyone going to fit them, you should be able to get PVC piping from your local hardware store that exactly fits the frame sliders through with no room to spare. This is what I used for the coolant bottle mod.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yeah that's standard 50mm PVC pipe. I went through the local "Bunnings" (the biggest hardware chain where I live) with one of the sliders, looking for solutions. The PVC pipe seemed to be the best solution at the time, but then I decided not to use it for the following reasons:
1. The fit was so tight that any mistakes in fitting it would cause problems
2. The PVC pipe is very rigid and has no give in it. Coupled with the extremely tight fit, I was worried that vibration might break whatever glue seal I put in place to keep the coolant water in.
Has anyone used the smaller bottle and had any over heating issues?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>The Moko brand (GSG Moto) frame sliders have an optional coolant bottle mod - it's a very small (less than 500ml) tank. Every time I've read about installation, people seem to have decided not to use the small tank because they are worried about overflow. I think the only way to be sure is to get your bike really hot (so that the fans are seriously working out) and watch what happens to your existing coolant bottle; i.e. does it fill up or do nothing.
Just use a straight edge of some sort to draw a few diagonals to find the centre & then drill a small pilot hole.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Geez, Mr. Technical! I was lazy and just guessed the center of the circle by eye. I bet your holes were a tad more accurate than mine though. :)
By the way, did you use anything to seal the inside of the hole where the paint meeds the bare plastic? I'm a bit concerned that over time the paint will start to peel away because it finishes at a hard edge rather than wrapping around?
I fitted mine about 2 months ago and boy I am sure glad I did since I dropped it about 2 weeks later while waiting at some lights (I had dropped it a number of times before fitting the sliders but always got away with minimum damage).<{POST_SNAPBACK}>When you dropped it with the frame sliders on, what parts of the bike touched down? I assume it would have been mirror, bar-end, and the slider?
I thought there was an option to purchase a smaller coolant bottle with these sliders? No? Was it some other companies sliders?<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yeah, it's the GSG Moto (Moko) frame sliders that come with the optional bottle.
The Moko brand (GSG Moto) frame sliders have an optional coolant bottle mod - it's a very small (less than 500ml) tank. Every time I've read about installation, people seem to have decided not to use the small tank because they are worried about overflow. I think the only way to be sure is to get your bike really hot (so that the fans are seriously working out) and watch what happens to your existing coolant bottle; i.e. does it fill up or do nothing.
Kaldek
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I've got one that I didn't/haven't used and it holds about 300ml at the top which is the amount that the OEM bottle holds at the "low" level mark.
I've got one that I didn't/haven't used and it holds about 300ml at the top which is the amount that the OEM bottle holds at the "low" level mark.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone actually known someone who has had their smaller bottle explode, ignite or fail in some way?
Nice write-up. I preformed this install this past Spring but didn't think to take photos, so nice to see a well done example like yours. My sliders fit great but luckily never had to test them yet. Cheers.
WOW...these sliders must use a different engine bolt than the one on my 03 VFR. Your hole in the bottle and fairing is a lot different than where mine is. Is there more than one engine bolt? My hole takes out the upper left corner of the water bottle as you are looking at it on the bike. Mine were the R&G sliders.
WOW...these sliders must use a different engine bolt than the one on my 03 VFR. Your hole in the bottle and fairing is a lot different than where mine is.? Is there more than one engine bolt?? My hole takes out the upper left corner of the water bottle as you are looking at it on the bike.? Mine were the R&G sliders.
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Yes, the R&G sliders use a bolt in the forward bank of cylinders and the MV sliders use a bolt in the rear bank. I did mine this weekend also, taking the hole saw to the fairings was scary but it came out great.
What kind of steel are the bolts made of? Are there any markings?
Any pics of just the kit uninstalled? Or know where I can find one?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Unlike the standard bolts the MV bolts have a 8mm hex socket head. Although difficult to make out with my old eyes, the markings appear to be FKE & 12.9 ... or something like that : P
I had 2 50km/hr+ & 80km/hr+ low skid on my vtec with the motovation sliders.
Luckily I was without my panniers.
The damages I had were:
Scratched LHS head cowling and side cowling.
Scratched front brake lever.
Bent rear brake pedal.
Slider mounting screw was bent.
I think a quarter of the slider was gone.
Surprisingly mirror, bar-end and tank were not affected.
The main impart were on the slider and head cowling.
kaldek, on Oct 25 2005, 07:09 AM, said:
When you dropped it with the frame sliders on, what parts of the bike touched down? I assume it would have been mirror, bar-end, and the slider?
I had 2 50km/hr+ & 80km/hr+ low skid on my vtec with the motovation sliders.
Luckily I was without my panniers.
The damages I had were:
Scratched LHS head cowling and side cowling.
Scratched front brake lever.
Bent rear brake pedal.
Slider mounting screw was bent.
I think a quarter of the slider was gone.
Surprisingly mirror, bar-end and tank were not affected.
The main impart were on the slider and head cowling.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>When you say "LHS head cowling and side cowling", do you mean the very bits of fairing that the slider is supposed to protect?
I suppose as long as the tank isn't damaged that takes a lot of the worry out, but then 80km/h is pretty fast and I'd expect to see major damage regardless at that speed.
Question for those that bought the Motovation kit for 02+ VFR. Did you have two different length bolts in the kit.
I got mine several days ago and have two different length bolts. Just wanted to confirm before I go through the installation and realize I have to get other parts and drive around with holes in my fairing.
Kaldek, thanks for the photo write up. It's especially welcome since we lost Das Bone's from the database.
Question for those that bought the Motovation kit for 02+ VFR. Did you have two different length bolts in the kit.
I got mine several days ago and have two different length bolts. Just wanted to confirm before I go through the installation and realize I have to get other parts and drive around with holes in my fairing.
Kaldek, thanks for the photo write up. It's especially welcome since we lost Das Bone's from the database.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes the bolts are meant to be of different lengths. The left-side bolt is longer due to the way the engine bolts to the frame there. I have updated my HowTo post above to make this more clear.
Honestly, Motovation USA really need to state this on their website because I think a few people have asked them this question repeatedly!
Yes the bolts are meant to be of different lengths. The left-side bolt is longer due to the way the engine bolts to the frame there. I have updated my HowTo post above to make this more clear.
Honestly, Motovation USA really need to state this on their website because I think a few people have asked them this question repeatedly!
Kaldek
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hmmmm ... Kaldek I honestly thought that it is the right side bolt that is the longer one. But then again it could be another case of old age short term memory loss. Anyway, they are definately different lengths & you'll work out which one fits where easily enough.
He also asked for a pic of my coolant bottle so I'll put the original one up here, but I did have to redo the sealant as the stuff I used started to leak after a while <_<
Hmmmm ... Kaldek I honestly thought that it is the right side bolt that is the longer one. But then again it could be another case of old age short term memory loss. Anyway, they are definately different lengths & you'll work out which one fits where easily enough.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nup, definitely longer on the left-side. If you try and use the shorter bolt on the left, it won't even screw in because the thread on the bolt doesn't reach the thread in the engine casing. This is with the frame slider in place of course.
The LHS head cowling is where the VFR decal area is.
It took most of the impart, rendering the decal into stripes.
Side cowling is near the bottom where you check the engine oil level.
Area where there is a "hump".
Yes, 80km/hr is enough to kill a cat. :(
kaldek, on Oct 25 2005, 08:03 PM, said:
When you say "LHS head cowling and side cowling", do you mean the very bits of fairing that the slider is supposed to protect?
I suppose as long as the tank isn't damaged that takes a lot of the worry out, but then 80km/h is pretty fast and I'd expect to see major damage regardless at that speed.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks like the hole that is cut into the fairing actually cuts thru the area where there is a couple of right angles that forms the bridge between the two fairing outlets. if this is the case, seems like a drill press would be required to make a nice straight cut in this area?
can this mod be done with a hand drill and produce a professional look?
I did mine with a hand drill......the only difference was that I used a 1 3/4" hole saw(pilot hole drilled first of course) to avoid some of those "wierd" angles :P and then used a 1 3/4" drum sanding bit a gradually increased the hole size to get it where I was happy with the fit.
I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.
No problem doing it by hand.....just take your time and work carefully B)
I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.Das Bone has an excellent point. Covering the fairing with painter's tape will help stop you from making mistakes like skipping your spinning drill bit across your fairing and gouging the paint.
I actually did this, but was lucky that the scratches were on the bit of fairing I was just about to drill out. :rolleyes:
Thanks for the info, looks like im gonna give it a shot.
i'm curious, when you drill the hole are you removing a portion of the almost horizontal ridge that is at the bottom of the hole. i cant seem to make it out in the pictures?
take a look at mine in my gallery. By the way, if you drill from the inside to outside that leave no chance to mar the paint. Then just take a deburring tool to the edge and it looks very professional.
Thanks for the info, looks like im gonna give it a shot.
i'm curious, when you drill the hole are you removing a portion of the almost horizontal ridge that is at the bottom of the hole. i cant seem to make it out in the pictures?
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Yes you are..........that's why I used a smaller hole saw to try and avoid having to deal with the angles, and then used the drum sander to increase the hole and keep it very clean.
As Teleskier mentioned, drilling can be done from the inside of the fairing too to avoid using painters tape etc..
I used a laser level to mark my pilot hole location so I was marking from the outside of the fairing. Generally fairing holes are drilled from the outside going in especially on bikes with graphics(most 600's and 1000's) because going from the inside out would have a tendency to mess up the sticker type graphics on the outside of the fairing. Not an issue here for our VFR's so I guess you can go at it which ever way makes the most sense for you.
Good luck...just take your time.....you know "measure 3 times...drill once" :P
as far as marking the hole, I screwed a dowel locating jug to the end of the engine rod, put electrical tape on the inside of the fairing since it is soft and indents well, then the dowel jig left a nice impression in the tape to drill my pilot hole. lots easier than using paint on the many angled surfaces.
does the motovation instructions list a torque value for the bolts?
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nope, they don't. However seeing as they are hex-head bolts most of us won't have a socket that can apply serious torque to them. I have the usual set of allen keys, which I added some oomph to with a tube spanner hooked onto the end of it. I basically used my judgement considering it's bolting into an aluminium engine. So in other words, tight but not too tight.
Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics!
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> DSC01609.JPG
Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics!
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> DSC01609.JPG
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very clean! What did you use for the sleeve?
I've got the sliders in my garage, might try the intall this weekend.
I've got the sliders in my garage, might try the intall this weekend.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I had an empty model engine fuel jug laying around. its made of thick plastic, approx 1mm thick. i actually cut out a piece from the side of the jug, so there is a seam when installed. i placed the seam under one of the edges that is created by cutting the hole in the tank and sealed it well.
any plastic gallon jug should work except for milk jugs.
good luck!
I had an empty model engine fuel jug laying around. its made of thick plastic, approx 1mm thick. i actually cut out a piece from the side of the jug, so there is a seam when installed. i placed the seam under one of the edges that is created by cutting the hole in the tank and sealed it well.
any plastic gallon jug should work except for milk jugs.
good luck!
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Mate, that is a really nice and clean install job. Makes mine look like crap! You must have a steady eye my friend. :beer:
With these, could use longer bolts and move the sliders out further by machining a spacer (or could even use washers). This would allow the hole in the bottle to be much smaller. Depending on how far you space them out, the hole in the fairing could possibly be the smaller diameter as well (realizing that you would have to take the sliders off every time you take the fairing off).
The only negative that I have thought of so far is: Since there would be less surface material against the frame changing the leverage ratio, in the event of a crash the bolt might bend easier? Don't know. :joystick:
Curious to find out what your thoughts are!
Kevin
PS...Don't want to hijack this thread, if it should be on it's own please move it!!
With these, could use longer bolts and move the sliders out further by machining a spacer (or could even use washers). This would allow the hole in the bottle to be much smaller. Depending on how far you space them out, the hole in the fairing could possibly be the smaller diameter as well (realizing that you would have to take the sliders off every time you take the fairing off).
The only negative that I have thought of so far is: Since there would be less surface material against the frame changing the leverage ratio, in the event of a crash the bolt might bend easier? Don't know. :joystick:
Curious to find out what your thoughts are!
Kevin
PS...Don't want to hijack this thread, if it should be on it's own please move it!!
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Kevin,
Hard to know for sure, but I think your concerns might be valid. The R&G sliders from the UK are somewhat similar to what you describe but their design incorporates a solid rod that runs all the way through the engine mount position from one side to the other, so it's "way" sturdy. They also use the more forward of the engine mount bolt positions and they give you a "modded" coolant bottle that basically just has the top corner removed and resealed.
So, I guess what I'm suggesting is that if you want to avoid the coolant bottle mod and would prefer the smaller hole drilled in the fairing then the "proven" R&G setup might be a safer bet. Yes, you do have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings and yes they do stick out a bit further that the MV's, and they are quite a bit more expensive, but you do get their modded coolant bottle etc.
I guess I'd be leary to try and take something like the sliders you've shown and try and "make" them fit/work for something they weren't designed for.
Like I said, hard to know for sure of course but I think I'd be worried about the
same things you mentioned.
BTW, changing subjects but Scootr has mailed off his chainguard and I've got a number for a painter so I've got to talk to him but................... :thumbsup:
Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Does anyone know if the 6th gen Motovation sliders bolt right onto a 5th gen? I can't find them listed for a 5th gen on the 2 or 3 sites I've checked.
hey Guy I been reading about these Motovation frame sliders I have 05 ABS and where i suppose to put the rite side Bolt there in some kinda small Box connected there can some please help if they have Done this on ABS thanx
hey Guy I been reading about these Motovation frame sliders? I have 05 ABS and where i suppose to put the rite side Bolt there in some kinda small Box connected there can some please help if they have Done this on ABS thanx
Ravi
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :idea3:
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly
No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That's odd, because I find it rather tricky to get the fairing off without removing the sliders first. I suppose that's because of the way I remove them - I remove all the bolts and then lift the fairing away from the frame while pulling backwards gently to unlock it from the clips at the front.
That's odd, because I find it rather tricky to get the fairing off without removing the sliders first. I suppose that's because of the way I remove them - I remove all the bolts and then lift the fairing away from the frame while pulling backwards gently to unlock it from the clips at the front.
Kaldek
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't have to remove the sliders to pull the fairing off. Undo all the fastenings, pull the fairing out at the back to clear the sliders, then pull gently back to release the front clips. Same as you do ... just have to pull the fairing out a bit more to clear the sliders first.
Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.
Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think you're confusing the MV's with some of the "panel protector" units. The MV's use the rear most engine mount bolt (there are two ya know) that's just like the engine bolt that you use for your R&G's...it's just a few inches further to the rear of the bike.
So, I don't know where you think a bracket is involved?
Exactly the same mounting situation as the R&G's.
As I mentioned above, the difference is that the R&G's use a solid rod that goes all the way through the "engine" per say....to which I refered to above as "way sturdy"(that's a compliment BTW) and that the R&G's came with a premodded coolant bottle, that due to their more forward mounting postion just has the leading edge cut out and resealed, i.e. the customer does not have to deal with modding the coolant bottle, but one does have to remove the R&G's to remove the fairing, and finally that they are more expensive which is all factual.
So like I said, it seems like you're confusing or misunderstanding about the MV's which I'm not sure how you could have due to all the posts and info on this thread and others that have been on the same topic.
Personally, I feel that members here should get accurate info so that's why I felt the need to correct what you had said and provide factual info about these units.
Read these post and the others on sliders and I think you'll see that you misinterpreted some stuff somewhere along the way. ;) B)
I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :idea3:
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
thanx for the pic i look around and flipped the Bottom Bracket that connect to the Frame and bolted where you did worked fine and don;'t have to make bracket for it either.
Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow are you smoking weed or something? There must be about 15 pics in this thread which show the Motovation sliders bolting to the engine via 6 inch bolts with a 12.9 tensile strength.
The Motovation sliders do not bolt to any brackets. They bolt directly to the engine and frame and are extremely strong. The bolts are specifically designed to bend rather than snap under extreme pressure.
The only mention in this entire thread about brackets was referring to the bracke that the EVAP purge cannister solenoid uses. It sits right where the frame sliders need to go, so Das Bone made up a new bracket for the solenoid.
I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :idea3:
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
F%#k,....Thank you! I'm think'n, "Coolant bottle, coolant bottle,...uhh,...What do I do about this?..." LOL.
B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.
I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.
But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed
B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.
I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea of trying to avoid plastic damage so much. Maybe a stubby slider, bar-ends(that slide and not too long to dig in and get your $800.000 tank), and the rear pegger button to hold off the can and rear plastic somewhat. I may use the Brit mushroom-style fairing bolt buttons, just to absorb some of the grinding. I was impressed how well the fairing brackets did do on impact. Clearly they took up some of the energy, and if the forces were distributed more widely, some repairable plastic might result instead of exploded puzzle pieces. You REALLY want to avoid flipping and smashing up the dash and front uppers, tank, et al.
But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed. Here is a shot of my confession of guilty damage to my poor VFR. And after a tear-down and alignment check-up, the poor thing just got back out on the track and ran straight and true without a blip.
B) I am re-thinking the slider deal and plan to avoid the big peg sticking out the fairing way far. I think a shorter sturdy peg makes sense to avoid engine and case damage, etc, but give up on the idea? of trying to avoid plastic damage so much.
But the VFR does run well as a naked bike......just a tad embarrassed
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oldfart--excellent post!! Thank you for that "first-hand experience" insight.
And so sorry your bike was "embarassed" in its nekkedness! I figured it would be proud of its big....hard.....firm....throbbing....protruding.....exhaust!! :P :P
B) I hope no one "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I see your point. Then again, there's so much stuff on the side of a VFR that could dig in and flip it,a nd it also depends whether it digs in with the "top" of the bike facing in the direction of the slide or the wheels are travelling in that direction. In the latter case the bike would just stop. It's only the former case where the bike would flip.
Anyway I consider the footpegs, bars, centre and side stand as all likely flipper culprits.
Stupid question. The epcv unit, I am assuming, is not using a ground to the frame? Doesn't appear so. But if I don't over think, I usually screw myself. And I'm no good at electrical.
Stupid question. The epcv unit, I am assuming, is not using a ground to the frame? Doesn't appear so. But if I don't over think, I usually screw myself. And I'm no good at electrical.
Thanx!
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No, it doesn't. Even if it did, you'd be okay with a homemade metal strap as pictured above.
Okay, here it is.
I ask forgiveness for the cleanliness of my ride. Refuse to detail under the body, until I break into the valve job.
My coolant bottle job is not as clean as Rod's. (Nice work, sir).
Start with the bottle. Originally wanted to plastic weld it. My air compressor is on the fritz, and I have not used my, (or any other), plastic welder yet. I only have the one bottle and didn't want to screw myself. Started with the hole small, then hit it with the small drum sander. This way, I would have more of the top of the bottle, in tact. (The plastic stretches, when hot). I epoxied the top of the sleeve, to hold it in place, so I could trim it more evenly. (Again, nice work Rod. LOL.) Would have ran epoxy around the whole thing, but, again, I only have the one, and wanted to go with the sure thing.
Had a mishap, (my life story), cutting one of the faring holes. Bent drill bit = paint scuff. Damn. Luckally, not bad, so it got touched-up along with the hole edges.
I made a bracket for the epcv, from 303 stainless. Was gonn'a use the stock bracket, but I didn't like the fact of it's thickness, and how it left only a hair of a stop for the faring mounting bracket. The positioning of the epcv, with the re-positioned stock bracket, left more to be desired. Note I also used a zip-tie, semi-tight, around the slider, and the other end of the epcv. This would help stabilize the unit from vibration and allow the slider to be removed, without cutting the zip-tie. My luck, no zip-tie, it comes loose on the bracket, the wires rub, cut, and short on me, = ME PISSED! EErrr! LOL.
[img]http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1133385687/gallery_2922_262_13183.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' /> 8 bracket,zip,tie,&plug.JPG
CHECK the plugs! They're caps from a wire rack. Had to lose the motovation stickers, and re-make the ends of the graphics, too. The next pic, the touch-up paint has not been buffed yet.
[image: Posted Image] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> on not attached no buff.JPG
For those that are saying that frame sliders might be worse than without......well sure it's possible. There's absolutely no guarantees with this kind of thing as there are just too many variables in a get off/ drop/crash.
Anything can happen. There was an article in one of the UK mags about this exact argument and there conclusion was that in 80% of the cases, the sliders were felt to have been a benefit in the outcome.
I'm not trying to suggest that anyone get sliders...that's an entirely personal choice.....but let others make their choice based on common sense and real world stories...and of course realizing that regardless of having sliders, you're bike can still get trashed :P
FWIW, in my one case of essentially a drop(having to stop very quickly to avoid hitting a downed rider in front of me on a cambered downhill corner) and a few other cases I know of of actual get-offs that other riders have had, the sliders in all of these particular cases did their respective jobs and definitely minimized damage.
Trace has been trying in vain to get Motovation's help developing a kit for the 5th gen, but they blew him off oh so harshly, so we're gonna do it on our own. We need some info, though, if one of you fairing-drilling maniacs would be willing to grab a ruler...
How long is Motovation's 6th gen slider (6" plus would be good, as with many things in life :P )? And what is the diameter of the machined insert that fits the recess in the frame?
Also, if you know anyone who has these for an RC51, it would be good to have the same info for it.
Trace has been trying in vain to get Motovation's help developing a kit for the 5th gen, but they blew him off oh so harshly, so we're gonna do it on our own. We need some info, though, if one of you fairing-drilling maniacs would be willing to grab a ruler...
How long is Motovation's 6th gen slider (6" plus would be good, as with many things in life :P )? And what is the diameter of the machined insert that fits the recess in the frame?
Also, if you know anyone who has these for an RC51, it would be good to have the same info for it.
Thanks in advance!
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I have a complete spare set of sliders for a 6th-gen. My bet is that they will just fit straight onto a 5th gen. I will measure them up for you, but I'd say they are at least 6", plus the smaller diameter bit that slots into the bolt recess.
I have a complete spare set of sliders for a 6th-gen. My bet is that they will just fit straight onto a 5th gen. I will measure them up for you, but I'd say they are at least 6", plus the smaller diameter bit that slots into the bolt recess.
Kaldek
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It'll be good to know what you find out. Oxmole came up with this...
I'm thinking I can live with the spindle that fits into the frame recess being only 7/8" in diameter (I can shim it with a sleeve or leave as-is), but the impression I get is that 5th gen bodywork requires a longer slider, something at least 6" long (according to Trace's eyeballing of the situation). If you find that your sliders are longer than theoxmole's - but you both have the 6th gen kit - that would be odd :huh: . Let us know what you find.
And definitely forget about RTV. Warmed the bike-up, once. That was enough to make it start to lose adhesion. Re-did the coolant overflow with Shoe Goo. We'll see. It appears to be the cat's a$$. :joystick:
When I did mine I used a 2 part epoxy to glue in the plastic and siliconed over it. Like Riv, the first time I rode it that way I had a small amount of antifreeze under the bike. I redid it using straight up Krazy Glue. Once it dried, I filled the tank with water, sealed up all the holes and squeezed. . . hard. Nothing came out. Sealed up tighter than a penguin's a$$. I put more silicone around the seams, but it probably isn't contributing anything to the integrity of the bottle. Good ol' Krazy Glue. . . they didn't list "modifying coolant reservoirs" but I'm sure they'd like to know!
Anyone use the yoyo-dyne sliders and have a picture of them. My buddy got a set for the VFR I just purchased from him and offered to instal them, but not sure what they look like and how well this brand works/ looks compared to other brands.
Speaking of krazy glue.... you might try this... have to go to a hobby store we now carry a rubberized super glue that is fantastic does not set up hard it fills in gaps and gives a little bit, which may help with the high frequency vibrations that motorcycles exhibit.... just something to try for the radiator overflow bottle.
Speaking of krazy glue.... you might try this... have to go to a hobby store we now carry a rubberized super glue that is fantastic does not set up hard it fills in gaps and gives a little bit, which may help with the high frequency vibrations that motorcycles exhibit.... just something to try for the radiator overflow bottle.
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Sounds interesting...do you know specifically what it's called?
On my second go around of resealing my bottle I used "Devcon Multi Purpose Silicone Adhesive S-12-/12045" that I got from Home Depot....so far so good...fingers crossed of course
Sounds interesting...do you know specifically what it's called?
On my second go around of resealing my bottle I used "Devcon Multi Purpose Silicone Adhesive S-12-/12045" that I got from Home Depot....so far so good...fingers crossed of course
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Did that too. Tore it off. (easily). D-oh. Wasn't gonna chance it. (That's just me). All C.A., now! Seems fine, need lots more ride time, to be certain.
Watch your mail, week after next, Bone. :goofy: LOL.
Anyone use the yoyo-dyne sliders and have a picture of them. My buddy got a set for the VFR I just purchased from him and offered to instal them, but not sure what they look like and how well this brand works/ looks compared to other brands.
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Where can you find info on the Yoyo-dyne products.
Did that too. Tore it off. (easily). D-oh. Wasn't gonna chance it. (That's just me). All C.A., now! Seems fine, need lots more ride time, to be certain.
Watch your mail, week after next, Bone. :goofy: LOL.
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I did mine with basic household silicon sealant, and it's been fine for ages now. Maybe my bike vibrates less than yours. Gasp - you must have a camchain problem/piston slap/evil gremlin/Harley Engine on your bike!
I just recently ordered my VFR800 and expect to get it in about 1.5 weeks; it'll be my second bike. The dealer will be installing the frame sliders.
What I am wondering is this: Since so many owners want and install frame sliders, a fact of which Honda (and other manufacturers) must be well aware, why aren't they a factory option? That would seem to make more sense.
Sliders designed by the bike manufacturer could be superior to after market sliders and probably cost less besides.
I just recently ordered my VFR800 and expect to get it in about 1.5 weeks; it'll be my second bike. The dealer will be installing the frame sliders.
What I am wondering is this: Since so many owners want and install frame sliders, a fact of which Honda (and other manufacturers) must be well aware, why aren't they a factory option? That would seem to make more sense.
Sliders designed by the bike manufacturer could be superior to after market sliders and probably cost less besides.
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Ahhh grasshopper..........one can not expect to understand the corporate mind of the Motorcycle manufacturer :P
Sh*t, we can't even seem to understand what "American" Honda is thinking most of the time :goofy:
I did mine with basic household silicon sealant, and it's been fine for ages now. Maybe my bike vibrates less than yours. Gasp - you must have a camchain problem/piston slap/evil gremlin/Harley Engine on your bike!
Kaldek
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LOL. Not so much that,...No ride time on it, before I peeled it. Before putt'n it back on, I noticed I could dig my fingernail into it, so off it goes. C.A. is working well, WITH min. ride time on it.
Last saturday I was out for a ride with a few mates. I was out ahead and we were covering some extremely bumpy roads. I was approaching a 90 degree right hander and slowed down to 65km/hr (40/45 miles/hr). Suddenly the front of the bike launched itself and slammed back down. The handlebars jamed to full left lock and down we went.
This was my first semi-serious stack on a bike in a couple of years and maybe 40,000k's.
The verdict:
Me - Bit sore, shoulder had a bit of soft tissue damage and a bit of road rash. Not too bad and nothing broken.
Gear - All destroyed. Helmet, gloves, boots and jacket. Thank god I was wearing all that stuff or I would have been in serious trouble.
Bike - Heavily damaged, though primarily cosmetic. Bike still ridable (I rode it 300k's home :blink: ) Came down on its right hand side. Frame slider actually snapped off and the thread of the bolt is still stuck in the engine mount. Got the repair bill yesterday, $5300 AUS (approx $4000 US) is the first estimate though this could change as they fix it and find anything else wrong with it. Here's a couple of shots:
I've got no idea what the frame slider actually saved. Its hard to imagine the right side of the bike having any further damage without the frame slider installed.
I hate these pictures. :( It's good that you had your gear on. Look at your bike and imagine all of that plastic as your skin!
It looks to me like yours slid flat on its side whereas mine was slightly tilted up, keeping the plastic up. My clutch case and slider took the brunt of the slide.
I've got no idea what the frame slider actually saved. Its hard to imagine the right side of the bike having any further damage without the frame slider installed.
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I guess that impact exceeded the shear strength of the bolt. It's 12.9 tensile strength steel so it's designed to bend rather than snap clean off.
Is it possible the slider dug into a hole/bump on the road and was asked to deal with 200kg of motorcycle sliding at 60km/h? I reckon that would snap off a lot of stuff!
Is it possible the slider dug into a hole/bump on the road and was asked to deal with 200kg of motorcycle sliding at 60km/h? I reckon that would snap off a lot of stuff!
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That's what I was think'n too. Thank goodness your in better condition, than the bike. Heal well.
It seems to me that bikes could be designed to minimize the damage that occurs when they are dropped. Easily replaceable rugged slide strips surely would help. Of course, bikes should never be dropped, but we know that it happens.
I suppose that manufacturers will never design bikes to minimize damage unless or until they are convinced that doing so would provide a marketing advantage. I'd be willing to pay a reasonable extra amount for the protection, and I bet many other riders would also.
At least we have good protective gear to wear to protect our bodies and ultimately that is more important than reducing damage to bikes.
I'm mounting the MV frame sliders this weekend and everythings gone easy except moving this assembly.
I don't have a little bracket like that can anyone suggest where to buy one, or how to make one
(with only primitive tools) or an alternative?
I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :idea3:
[image: Posted Image] Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly
[/quote]
Well I hate to reply to my own post, but how bad would it be to use strong velcro to hold it in place?
I plan to remove all the PAIR and cannister stuff sometime anyway.
[quote name='JKirk' post='355894' date='Feb 17 2007, 06:25 PM']I'm mounting the MV frame sliders this weekend and everythings gone easy except moving this assembly.
I don't have a little bracket like that can anyone suggest where to buy one, or how to make one
(with only primitive tools) or an alternative?
I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :idea3:
Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly[/quote]
[/quote]
try post 69?
Thanks for the tip. Very easy. The holes were drilled perfectly the first shot and I din't need a dremel. The Key is to have a perfect alignment and the best tool that I found was a piece of chewing gum :rolleyes:
That's right, chewing gum !!! Just place it inside the fairnig and the bolt will magically print itself at the exact location were the drilling is required !
Done! My VFR 2008 now has the frame sliders - too bad I didn't do this before dropping the bike!
Many thanks for these clear instructions, indeed the hardest part was the water bottle.
I examined mine, and if the water bottle is OVER the "full" line, it DOES overflow when it gets hot.
Therefore, I would caution anyone that wishes to install a smaller bottle.
Btw, did anyone drop the bike after the frame sliders? What happens when it's simply dropped
(and not skidded across), does the handlebar hit the ground? Does it break a lever? Does it break
the mirrors - I already made Honda rich with my mirror and handlebar changes and their overpriced accessories :(
I am just about to buy MV sliders - The price is almost 3 times cheaper then other sliders :thumbsup: but I am curious about what will happen if I drop the bike in my garage after I install the mv sliders? The sliders seems shorter then Rader's or R&Gs... I am wondering if the bottom part of fairing will hit the ground. How about the mirror?
I happened to drop my bike a couple of months ago. :pissed: Fortunately, I got away with replacing a mirror and a couple of barely visible scratches. I am hoping that the MV sliders will prevent it if I ever drop my vfr again.. ( and I plan to keep my vfr for the next ten years :rolleyes: )
I appreciate it if you can share your experience / thoughts
[image: View Post]terry6767, on Mar 13 2008, 12:22 AM, said:
I am just about to buy MV sliders - The price is almost 3 times cheaper then other sliders :thumbsup: but I am curious about what will happen if I drop the bike in my garage after I install the mv sliders? The sliders seems shorter then Rader's or R&Gs... I am wondering if the bottom part of fairing will hit the ground. How about the mirror?
I happened to drop my bike a couple of months ago. :pissed: Fortunately, I got away with replacing a mirror and a couple of barely visible scratches. I am hoping that the MV sliders will prevent it if I ever drop my vfr again.. ( and I plan to keep my vfr for the next ten years :rolleyes: )
I appreciate it if you can share your experience / thoughts
Cheers,
Tom
Slightly bent shifter. (Not enough to replace). Scuffed bar end, scuff on the edge of the mirror. (Prolly wouldn't have had that, if the mirrors weren't out so far). Few scuffs on the upper fairing. (Touched up).
[image: View Post]jonsey, on Sep 28 2007, 06:09 AM, said:
I found these sliders online yesterday...anyone tried them yet? No drilling the reservoir!
http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/BikeHPS_On...r_Honda_19.html
The VFR pic is fourth from the bottom.
I have them and I converted to Radar's Kit once I got over the drilling fear. Greg
So you're saying that you've got a set and went to this Radar's kit instead?
Ya, Dat's it...... Failsafe install and IMHO, a much more 'robust' mounting point. :thumbsup:
If anything, the quality and design is to the level of almost overengineering.... but that's a GOOD thing! :joystick:
[image: View Post]jonsey, on Sep 28 2007, 06:09 AM, said:
I found these sliders online yesterday...anyone tried them yet? No drilling the reservoir!
http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/BikeHPS_On...r_Honda_19.html
The VFR pic is fourth from the bottom.
I have them and I converted to Radar's Kit once I got over the drilling fear. Greg
So you're saying that you've got a set and went to this Radar's kit instead?
Ya, Dat's it...... Failsafe install and IMHO, a much more 'robust' mounting point. :thumbsup:
If anything, the quality and design is to the level of almost overengineering.... but that's a GOOD thing! :joystick:
I'd love to get a set of Radar's sliders for my VTEC, but don't have the scratch right now as all my extra $$ is going into the 750 project!
I've got my motovation sliders installed now and the process was pretty smooth. I used superglue for the bottle, then backed that up with silicon sealant. No leaks. I also used the method where you unscrew the bolt until it pressed on the inside of the fairing to find the center hole. Once I had drilled a pilot hole, I installed the fairing again and used the dremel tool to locate the true center. I was usually off by about 1/2 cm, but I got the holes drilled perfectly. Check it out.
My water tank job was sub-par - I couldn't do it as cleanly as some of you have done.
I used a section of a baby bottle (!) as the inner tube, but it cracked after a few months of use.
So now I glued the expansion tank to the frame slider! It works so far, we'll see for how long..
Btw, is it my imagination or are the Motovations getting more and more expensive.
It seems I paid $60, but they are now 78?
Um, what did you all use for the inner tube? I couldn't find anything that matched the diameter..
So I ended up padding the frameslider with duck tape, and gluing that into the hole of the expansion tank..
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