WOLF VFR800 owners, need some help.

Now I've PM'd VFRd user Joeashville about it, and BlueViffer and I had corresponded earlier in the year, but I thought I'd start a dedicated thread to help me gather information relating to the Twin-underseat exhaust I want to fabricate as shown here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=21422

Unfortunately, Joe no longer has the dimensionally accurate tracings of the WOLF undertray, so I guess I'll ultimately wind up fabricating something on my own, probably as a winter project because this is going to take time, and I don't want to cut into riding season.

So to provide a little info off the top, the twin DEVIL cans I have are actually smaller than the WOLF cans which should make them easier to package on the bike. They measure 16" long (without the outlet spigot) and are 3.25" O.D. with a 1.5" inlet I.D.

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Pipework isn't a problem as I have located a fabricator that does custom motorcycle and snowmobile exhausts. He can whip up whatever I need once the cans are located on the bike.

My problem is trying to believe that there is enough clearance under the seat to install the cans even with a custom undertray. I know that early WOLF owners had clearance issues at full compression and later WOLF kits came with a shock link to raise the rear of the bike.

My bike is currently raised as far as I can lift it using washers on the upper shock mount and I only have 6" of clearance between the tire and the stock plastic undertray.

I don't know if it is possible to increase that distance by much even with a custom undertray made out of aluminum or stainless sheet. ???

So firstly, can all WOLF owners chime in with their clearance measurement between tire and exhaust cans, with the bike on the centerstand?

Secondly, I have a few images of the WOLF cans installed on the bike WITHOUT the undertray, and that gives me an understanding of where everything is located relative to the subframe. See my photobucket gallery here: http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a280/vee...aust%20project/

To that end, I'd really appreciate some detailed, closeup pictures in excellent lighting of the underseat area, seat removed of course, showing how everything is attached and general aspects of the undertray construction, routing, etc.

That way I can get an idea of where everything is placed on the bike and how to go about fabbing something because right now, I don't even know where to start.

The exploded parts view shows the undertray bits, but obviously in not enough detail, and how everything attaches is a mystery to me.

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Now there was a website that showed some more details of the WOLF install, actually a writup on the procedure, and some of the pictures in by P-bucket gallery were swiped from there, but I can't seem to gOOgle it up at the moment. Hopefully someone has a link.

Any and all relevant information is appreciated. :thumbsup:

My data is not for a Gen 5, but I can't imagine it could be too different.

I got a pair of Wolf canisters, a riser-Y pipe, and the rear mounting bracket and licence plate bracket when I picked up my system - no undertray included. The understanding that I have is that what Wolf provided was fairly basic anyway.

I just decided to make a new inner fender, and I started by making cardboard templates (apologies for the pic quality, taken on a phone camera a few years back):

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templates.jpg

From these, I cut sheet aluminium to the templates, and bent it to suit, then had an OzVFR mate tee up a former colleague who was handy at welding aluminium:

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alloy undertray.jpg

As the upper rails kink in towards each other where they mount to the main frame, I had to put a fold in each side and bend it in slightly, so the front-most face of the box is actually trapezoidal in shape. This makes it really easy to drop the box out of the subframe, so it was a worthwhile mod.

The shape of the rear section that goes over the top of the canisters was dictated by the height of the canisters, and the crossbrace that sits under the pillion seat.

The 'sunken' part over the riser pipe is so that the original seat lugs that slip inside the frame rails and prevent lateral movement could remain; I couldn't be bothered working out a different way to address this although it ended up being a fair bit of work. I made a CF cover for the riser pipes which is to be riveted in place. The oblique shape of the cut-out is because the y-pipe is offset, the 5th Gen Wolf riser was more symmetrical.

Because of the size of the battery box, the rear pair of coils had to be relocated to the side of the bike - this was simply a mistake I made by not planning well enough. And even though the box is bigger, it's still not big enough to provide practical storage, it will only fit a battery, a toolkit and a puncture kit - I'd make it even bigger next time around (as if that's going to happen).

As far as ride height goes - I cut the rear subframe gusset under the seat lock to allow the canisters to sit about 20mm higher - this meant that they sat a bit closer to the front of the bike (i.e. the rake of the riser pipe was decreased).

I then flipped my eccentric, but this isn't an option for you sad.gif

Although you only have 6" clearance ATM, once the plastic inner fender is out you should find you can get the canisters closer to the seat. Then you'll probably have to rely on a shimmed shock to get any additional clearance you require. At 3.25" dia, your canisters will help a lot, and if the Gen 5 subframe rails are 8" apart like on the Gen 4, you should be able to get them fitted with a 1.5" gap between them which will further aid clearance.

The Wolf cans are 4" diameter, I had to use a hydraulic jack to spread the frame rails by 0.25" to give enough clearance for my inner fender.

The seat needed to have some plastic trimmed away to clear the new inner fender when the seat is being slid into place. I've also covered the underside with adhesive insulative foil.

Another pic:

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Thanks Murray, I had seen your pictures before and had planned to do something similar.

Although it's for a 750, the pictures and descriptions aren't exactly useless.

I think I'll wind up removing the plastic undertray/fender and reinstalling the rear bodywork/seat so that I can see exactly how much room exists with the seat in place.

I AM however very interested to see how much clearance Joe and Vince have between their tire(s) and the WOLF cans. :joystick:

Well I just got off the phone with WOLF UK to see if they had any drawings or anything that they would be willing to copy/send me to assist and they said no, they have nothing left over since the system went out of production.

The data for the undertray was apparently a CNC program that was fed into the machine, and nothing as simple as a physical drawing with measurements ever existed.

And of course, they kept none of the data after the fact. sad.gif

Oh well, I've still got Murray cheering me on. :unsure:

veefer800canuckOh well, I've still got Murray cheering me on.  :unsure:

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YAY ROB! :thumbsup:

It's a piece of cake, just get some aluminium sheet and go for it!

Or, go with Plan B, a pair of high left/right cans like RC51 :salesman:

... or an over under shotgun on LHS smile.gif

AB-Oz... or an over under shotgun on LHS smile.gif

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That too would look trick. Rob, do you have a full system?

Something I neglected to mention is that there is a lot of scope for really tidying up the undertail area. You can see in the pics I posted that the new inner fender runs right back (in the last pic I'd cut it to match the rearmost section of the subframe). Originally it was to run past that, and then down to become a bracket for the rear bodywork/lamp. I've still gone with that, however the bracket in question now bolts onto the rear of the new inner fender. In addition to this there is also a bracket that locates the twin canisters - the Wolf bracket was rubbish, as was the plate bracket. Pics to follow.

I have one other shot of the wolf system. I beat someone could sell a bunch of these if they got someone to make a bunch. :thumbsup:

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wolf 5th gen under seat sys.

I'll be following this project for sure, I have been wanting to do up an underseat exhaust for my F4i... :thumbsup:

The PhantomYou can see in the pics I posted that the new inner fender runs right back (in the last pic I'd cut it to match the rearmost section of the subframe).<snips> Pics to follow.

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Pics? We dont want no damn steeenkin' pics!! We want to see the bloody bike on the road! and before we're too old to enjoy it and before all the gas runs out!!

AB-OzPics? We dont want no damn steeenkin' pics!! We want to see the bloody bike on the road! and before we're too old to enjoy it and before all the gas runs out!!

:D

+1.gif +1.gif

The PhantomThat too would look trick. Rob, do you have a full system?

Nope, stock headers.

The LHS exit would be tricky with the centerstand in the way and all. Not really a problem you would encounter on the RC30, RC45 or RC51.

The stock RC46 headers exit spigot is pointing on a pronounced angle toward the right rear of the bike, on the right side of the shock linkage. And there's not a lot of room to cut it to re-angle it out the other side. The shock linkage is in the way, plus if you cut it back, the shape of the collector is not round, so attaching a pipe ot it would be tricky. See pics:

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954 shock install 005.jpg

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I thought of cutting the entire collector away, leaving just two separate 2 into 1 sections and then firing each separate 2-1 out each side, one right and one left. But then the bike would sound something like a pair of V-twins running down the road side-by-side and I have absolutely no idea what it would do to the exhaust scavenging. :joystick:

Oh well, the custom chopper guys don't seem to care where the exhaust pipes run, they just snake 'em whereever they think they look good with the fender, etc. +1.gif

Hey! The pic of the wolf cans in your album - my TBR C2 can lined up just about where they did - about 1/4" behind the crossmember on the subframe. I mocked the whole thing up, then made a mold around the mock-up and glassed around the mold. I did all the top layers first, let them dry, pulled the mold out, then glassed the bottom layers.

Haven't I heard that riding two-up is no-go with a Wolf-type system? Do you ever have a pillion, Rob?

magellanHaven't I heard that riding two-up is no-go with a Wolf-type system? Do you ever have a pillion, Rob?

Well, as I mentioned earlier, there were problems with clearance until WOLF began supplying shorter dogbones to raise the rear of the bike.

As for the difference with/without a passenger, I hadn't heard that.

Maybe Vince or Joe will chime in soon.

I do occasionally take passengers, the wife or kids mainly, but not very often.

AHA! I finally found the WOLF installation page that I mentioned earlier.

I'll have to save these to my HD at home:

http://home.shelby.net/~dmac/vfr.htm

http://home.shelby.net/~dmac/Wolf.htm

Good info, but I still need some more pictures and measurements.

Anyone, Bueller?

Hiya Rob,

Wow, I had no idea that you were this far along into this.

As for my own excuse...I'm going through some major upheaval in my personal life (something else just happened last night that is going to cost BIG BUCKS to fix) so I haven't been on VFRD very much lately...apologies.

You have captured me at the right time though, I always enjoy helping people. I wish I had kept a copy of those tracings...I knew I should have when I sent them to the gentleman in New York.

The information you've found at shelby.net is the best I've seen. That's a LOT more information that I ever had...I just had to eyeball everything and trial fit it together. After a LOT of preparation that I thought I needed to do, the affair went in so easily I was quite surprised and a little ashamed that I had talked it up as being so difficult amongst my biker buddies.

A few things to keep in mind:

I do not ride pillion.

I have a Penske rear shock, OAL stock plus 10 mm. This would account for the accessory dogbone that Wolf supplied.

I have a 2Bros Ti header, not the stock header.

Other than that, I think we're OK. I'll partially dis-assemble and take pics this weekend...I'm moving out of the house I've living in so it might take a little while.

I understand there is quite a bit of pent-up demand in the VFR community for these (at the right price), I am surprised that nobody has decided to manufacture another limited run.

JoeAshevilleI understand there is quite a bit of pent-up demand in the VFR community for these (at the right price), I am surprised that nobody has decided to manufacture another limited run.

These, and performance full header systems. I'm looking into the possibility of getting my Indigo full system replicated, I'll see about having the Wolf riser pipe copied too (virtually any canisters could be used).

Rob,

Haven't had the rear of the bike off for a while now. But will take it off and take some pictures for you here this weekend. I work on Sat so it will probably be Sunday.

With the link wolf supplied I have no rubbing problems when 2 up. And I am not too light. How ever the wife is about average 135#.

The pics Phantom posted were a whole lot cleaner than what the wolf set up is.

Will get back soon.

vince

Wow, those installation instructions seem waaaaaaaay to PITA. I vote mount up the pipes and glass the bastard...

Or.... I have considered heating the original ABS undertray and pressing it into a mold. Nice & clean.....

Why did wolf turn the outlets inwards like that. It makes the back of the bike look cross-eyed. Has anyone else noticed that. This comment coming from a very jellous non wolf owner.

chris2992, May 20 2006, 03:24 AMWhy did wolf turn the outlets inwards like that. It makes the back of the bike look cross-eyed. Has anyone else noticed that. This comment coming from a very jellous non wolf owner.

The Phantom, May 21 2006, 03:29 AMYep I never liked it either.

Mine are pointing down and look much better for it.

vfrmonkey, May 21 2006, 07:23 AMStock collectoer outlet 2", TBR collector outlet 2 1/8"

Hobie1dog, May 21 2006, 09:47 AMAnd what is the diameter of the Wolf system piping?

Good news is, when combined, the two 1.5" muffler holes offer 12.5% greater surface area than the single 2" of the Micron I've currently got.

Wow - this thread has really expanded nicely.

Here is a side and rear shot of my set up.

According to the direction sheet I got, I mounted the ECU on the left side of the subframe with the wires pointing down.

I also had to do some ziptying to keep the brake lines from touching the exhuast pipe.

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wolf rear.jpg

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wolf side.jpg

The problem I am concerned with now is waterproofing the ECU. I saw the other post where he mounted it on the sheet metal under the seat, but I am concerned that there is too mush heat and this wouldn't do the ECU too well. So now I am trying to think up of some type of thick vinyl (like the material used on some of the wiring harness as protection) 2 piece set up where the first covers the bottom of the ECU snuggly then another piece fits over the top of the ECU and over the first piece.

That way, the overlap/seam is pointing down so water can't get in. It's a work in progress - lol

Hope the pics help - keep us posted!

Damn i should have grabbed the wolfs from joe sad.gif

Vince I have always thought your bike was the sweetest blue viifer i ever saw but man that sargent seat with the blue piping has got to go man. Send it to me , i will take good care of it for you . :idea3:

veefer800canuckThe wife has been away at her sister's for the past week, I had the kids all to myself and was playing Mr. Mom, with the VFR as my only mode of transportation. Shopping, cleaning, laundry, soccer, field trips, yardwork, etc, etc, etc.

I'm amazed you got anything done on your bike at all :goofy: and now it's completely finished.

SAFE-TI'm amazed you got anything done on your bike at all  :blink: and now it's completely finished.

My bike is completely finished???

Well, let's not be hasty now, K? :goofy: