First remove the exhaust, from the bike, or have your spare. It follows closely to an gutting process, with it removed from the bike. I'm sure some of you may find a different, easier, or more-better way to do some of the steps.
-Remove all of the covers
-Make your markings
I cut 2" off of the back end. It was easier to do it this way, as opposed to doing it from the, "elbow weld", area. (Doing it there would require re-tabbing the side covers, {chancing burn through},and more re-weldig of the mounts, on the exhaust itself).
Make a mark all the way around the can, 2" from the center of the weld, at the end of the can. Use a straight edge to make lines that follow the outside edges of all of the mounting tabs. Within the tab marks, measure 2', from there hole centers, back. There are 3 4mm mounts, (for the endcap). One is on the end of the can. Do nothing with it. The one on the outside of the can, needs to be moved in 2". The one on the top of the can should be removed and not used. The long side shield mount, (on the top of the can, will be used as that mount and for side shield mount). The tab, on the side, closest to the end, (that the side shield mounts too), is removed and not used.
SIDE SHOT OF RIGHT CAN. The 4mm is to be moved in, the tab removed. (I had marked it in the pic of where it should re-mount, but found it wasn't necessary, {and would require welding the side cover}),...no,..not going there.
[image: Posted Image] 100_3580.JPG
-Remove the mounting tabs.
I used a cutting wheel to remove the tabs, and an angle grinder to re-shape the long top bracket, to fit correctly on the hanger mount re-enforcement. Be very cautious not to cut through the can, when doing this. (TOP, BOTTOM, to LARGE PIC):
The top pic shows a 6mm nut, (on the left), that will be tac-welded onto the top mounting bracket. It will be the new mount, for the side cover. The origional 6mm will be used for mounting the top tab of the endcap. (The hole on the endcap tab needs to be reamed, slightly larger, to accomodate).
The bottom pic shows the, "Steps", put into the mount, so it will fit, higth wise, when re-assembled.
The large pic shows the markings of where the mount will be re-positioned. Luckally, the extra holes in the mount, are the right distances apart, in comparison fron the 4mm and 6mm mounting positions.
[image: Posted Image] top brackets.jpg
Shows the re-position. (AFTER THE 2" REMOVED, FROM THE CAN)
[image: Posted Image] 100_3613.JPG
NOW CUTTING THE CANS. I had cut the weld, at the end, the weld at the elbow, and at the 2" mark.
Left to right, top to bottom.
Hammering out the guts...Guts out...The empty can...And the guts with the end of the can still on.
[image: Posted Image] cutting.jpg
From here, it's a bit easier to cut through the pipes, to get the end of the can off. From here, use a hole saw, (I used an O.D. of 1.5", to accomodate the 1.5" O.D. stainless 304 stock, I purchased). I cut the tube stock to approx. 2", and laft about .5" on the inside, for welding.
EVERYTHING WELDED.
[image: Posted Image] vf2504.jpg
Now's the time to grind all of the welds so the covers fit.
As there is gonna be some tweeking, due to nothing is absolute,....
I drilled the endcaps with the same hole saw, then oversized the holes buy grinding flat on the ends. Then finish deburring with a drum grinder bit. Place the endcap on the can and mark the higth of the opening, onto the tube. Then cut the tubes and de-burr. (I, personally, left the top tube sticking out further, than the bottom, by .250").
[image: Posted Image] fitment.jpg
The side covers, I just cut 2" off of the backend. The mounting hole, for the side cover, I found correct placement for but using Pla-doh, on the underside, then drilling the hole and remounting the stock rubber grommet. The rear mont hasn't moved, so,..that's all good.
A bead blasting of the covers, heating them to 400deg., in the oven, for 10 min, then spraying them with penetrating oil, coating with Eagle 1 wipe'n'shine, will help keep fingerprints and road disbris from sticking.
Wire wheeling the cans and pipes, painting with BBQ paint, putting the covers on, then mount.
Ta-da!
(Needs final cleaning, yet). Sound clip on the main page player.
[image: View Post]baileyrock, on Feb 21 2007, 10:42 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Hobie1dog, on Feb 20 2007, 09:41 PM, said:
Cool stuff......do you use a stick welder or a MIG welder?
Looks like Mig w/o stainless wire. :warranty:
Nice job! :thumbsup:
Yes. But Lobster's buddy, Rodney, did the welding. Thanx, guys!
[image: View Post]oyama, on Feb 21 2007, 10:58 AM, said:
Rivcyko
Would you take a pic from the side of your bike. It would show better how the bike looks like with the shortened exhaust.
Not the best comparison, as the shots are not lined-up to each other.
[image: View Post]oyama, on Feb 21 2007, 10:32 PM, said:
Hmm, thanks for the side shot. Looks good! :thumbsup: But, have you thought about cutting the end in angle, like this:
[image: Posted Image]
BOY HOWDY! 3 steps ahead of you! wasnt gonna happen without making new end plates, for the cans. Glad I'm not the only one who has a twisted mind, like mine. You gonna do it????????????????????????????????? Hmmmmmm..................... Gotta top my one-off. PLEASE. That would be sweeeeet! I wanna see it. You've put yourself in the hole. LOL.
Then, on top of it, you'ld have to made angled end-caps. D-oh!
KKkken, if it were of the first thought, I would have smoked the whole damn thing by now. LOL. Honestly, not sure of the name, of the plant. My Ma gave it to me, as it was from my Grandfather's funeral, and she was killing it. (I've a bit of a green thumb). Had a palm as big as my bed. When I moved to the house, it got moldy, (as I don't have the environmental control, here), as I had in my old apartment. It is now 5 small leaves, but still lives. It used to surround my canopy bed. The chicks dug it. LOL.
Ah those Easteners and their crazy welding machines! I always thought the oem cans were too long. My vote goes to the straight angle. I like the "throaty" sound as well. Mind you, I don't think the shot angle gave the slanted one justice.
BTW, since there is no Sleeman in the States, how can you do these jobs? I thought it was part of the necessary instruments.
[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Feb 21 2007, 10:42 PM, said:
[image: View Post]oyama, on Feb 21 2007, 10:32 PM, said:
Hmm, thanks for the side shot. Looks good! :thumbsup: But, have you thought about cutting the end in angle, like this:
BOY HOWDY! 3 steps ahead of you! wasnt gonna happen without making new end plates, for the cans. Glad I'm not the only one who has a twisted mind, like mine. You gonna do it????????????????????????????????? Hmmmmmm..................... Gotta top my one-off. PLEASE. That would be sweeeeet! I wanna see it. You've put yourself in the hole. LOL.
Well, yes you are right the disadvantages of the angled exhaust end is that it requires a new end plate because the existing is not going to stretch. Unfortunately, I neither have tools or knowledge or acquaintance who is good with welding, so either you or Tok-Tokie have to do first! :thumbsup:
[image: View Post]ASU-VFR, on Mar 2 2007, 08:50 PM, said:
it SHOULD'T be too hard but we all know how that is. but im gonna try it. if it doesn't work i'll try something else may be a custom shaped end cone?
Erreerrrrrrrr. Then the a$$ of your bike would look like Madonna's chest. Ewww. LOL.
Erreerrrrrrrr. Then the a$$ of your bike would look like Madonna's chest. Ewww. LOL.
LMAO sorry maybe i should be more specific something like the shape of the 04+ Rs or so
I just been modding the zorsts - questions is now i have removed the baffles completeley should I just weld the original exhausts ports back onto the pipes?
I have cut the very end of the pipes off very neatly so in theory I just need to remove the guts and weld it all back together??
[image: View Post]clarkytwo, on Nov 18 2008, 06:30 PM, said:
I just been modding the zorsts - questions is now i have removed the baffles completeley should I just weld the original exhausts ports back onto the pipes?
I have cut the very end of the pipes off very neatly so in theory I just need to remove the guts and weld it all back together??
hope this makes sense???
You can, but it may open you up to water in the cans. I say, Weld a larger dia., tube, in there.
[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Nov 18 2008, 07:06 PM, said:
[image: View Post]clarkytwo, on Nov 18 2008, 06:30 PM, said:
I just been modding the zorsts - questions is now i have removed the baffles completeley should I just weld the original exhausts ports back onto the pipes?
I have cut the very end of the pipes off very neatly so in theory I just need to remove the guts and weld it all back together??
hope this makes sense???
You can, but it may open you up to water in the cans. I say, Weld a larger dia., tube, in there.
I saw a guy today who builds exhausts - he says all exhausts have some water in them anyway which boils off when its on a good run. I got the end caps welded back on with NO baffle at all in the left side - but an untouched righthand side. Will this create a problem cause there is no back pressure from the one ? I suppose minimal from the other as the gases will choose the easiest escape route. Should I take out the other baffle so it is equal on both sides? Or just leave it as it is? Its not too noisey at the moment - not as noisey as without the tail pipes on at all - lol.
I am not sure whats going to happen, I am not sure if this mod is ok? I am not sure wether to do the other one the same? Basically my head has lots of questions I cannt seem to answer!! and I am unsure.......
Riv, your mod looks good, but I like the angled one alot. I will not be attempting anything like this as I lack the skill. I'm amazed by you welding guys.
I thought the tail would look awesome with an angled exhaust too! I don't have the talent either, but I have access to those who do. I thought somewhere down the line I might try it... Um, gulp, ah... anyone know the cost of the stock exhaust offhand? Mac